organic grow, possible deficiency? help please first official grow (PICS)

hello,

i have 3 week old babies and one of them has rust spots and minor curling on a set of leaves with the spots. im guessing that it is potassium that is needed but im not sure. i flushed her and added tap water with some molasses to raise up the K level. the ph is 6.8 to 7.0 and thats from the runoff water at the bottom of the pot. im trying to fix this before i put her into flowering in 2 weeks or so. thanks!

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i think i was able to control the spreading it has been contained, im using a little more concentrated recipe of molasses and water to raise to potassium levels and it seems to have worked. the flushing has seemed to do wonders also..maybe i should cut back on the epsom salts to prevent future lockout?

Just my two cents but with those babies should be in some pretty mellow soil starting out without lots of additives. Epsom Salts is wonderful when used sparingly and won't believe that age would really need it yet. The molasses I totally agree with to help it along I use it in all my waterings. There is a good rule of thumb with nutes and additvies less is better. Good luck with the rest of your grow she is looking good.

thanks canefan i have decided to cut back on the salt for now and just using a upped dose of molasses to water. question should i purchase veggie food if im going to flower so soon, or will they be satisfied with molasses and water till i start flowering and give them the super tea bloom from advanced nutrients.

If you are start them on nutes that is fine just remember to start them off very slowly for chemical ferts I would say 1/4 strength what the label says or you risk burning them. I would also suggest you read up a bit on organic teas to get your babies going. If I can be of any other help let me know.

im going all organic for this one, im only using advanced nutrients super tea for bloom, my last grow i attempted chem ferts and they fried nice and crispy lol, thanks cane. just started LST also.

any ideas on how long it takes to recover? it still showing a few signs of K def. ive added 2 tbsp of molasses to distilled water it seems to have slowed down or stopped but the sister leaf (same node) is starting to have a few affects. any ideas on adding humidity also?

Give them some time and you might need to flush again. Sometimes you get enough out the first time and sometimes it takes a couple of flushing....Careful on the molasses really only need one tbl per gallon of water. During veg I like lots of humidity but I grow outside and that is not a problem here. Just an open container of water in your grow space will keep it nice and humid. So in closing I would personally recommend flushing and leaving your water on a diet of straight water for a week, it might slow you down in the beginning but think your plant will like it better in the future.

You have to get the PH down any where near 7 is when bad stuff happens to the plant. Get her down and say by by to most issues. Ph6 is where you want to be.

this is a great link

http://www.eutechinst.com/tips/ph/15_soil_ph.pdf

This is from a gov. web site here is the link also at the end.

Farmers frequently ask, "What effect does pH have on availability of nutrients in the soil?" There is no simple answer to this question, since the effects of pH are complex and vary with different nutrients. However, some broad generalizations are useful to keep in mind when making nutrient management decisions.
Soil pH
The first order of business is a quick review of pH and the associated terminology. Soil pH or soil reaction is an indication of the acidity or alkalinity of soil and is measured in pH units. The pH scale goes from 0 to 14 with pH 7 as the neutral point. As the amount of hydrogen ions in the soil increases, the soil pH decreases, thus becoming more acidic. From pH 7 to 0, the soil is increasingly more acidic, and from pH 7 to 14, the soil is increasingly more alkaline or basic.
Using a strict chemical definition, pH is the negative log of hydrogen (H+ ) activity in an aqueous solution. The point to remember from the chemical definition is that pH values are reported on a negative log scale. So, a 1 unit change in the pH value signifies a 10-fold change in the actual activity of H+, and the activity increases as the pH value decreases.
To put this into perspective, a soil pH of 6 has 10 times more hydrogen ions than a soil with a pH of 7, and a soil with a pH of 5 has 100 times more hydrogen ions than a soil with a pH of 7. Activity increases as the pH value decreases.


Ross H. McKenzie
Research Scientist - Soil Fertility/Crop Nutrition
Telephone: (403) 381-5842 Source: Agdex 531-4. May 2003.

http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$department/deptdocs.nsf/all/agdex6607

Peace

interesting article about soil you posted so soils best PH is between 6-7. well for a update i have noticed the same spots on the sister plant so today i went out and replanted them the root systems seems they have grown to enourmous size much much more than i could anticipate for a 3 week old plant this could be the source of the issues as Canefan mentioned. i have replanted from 1 QT to 3 QT container added some soil around the root "ball" and underneath and have started to feed flower nutes. hopefully this should take care of the issues i have been having. BTW for feed i have 3/4 tbsp of AN super tea, 1 1/2 tbsp of molasses to a gallon of water, let it settle for a few hours and tested the PH to 6.8.

This definitely looks like burn caused by the salts. Too much salt in your soil disrupts the plants ability to regulate moisture levels. Don't worry about ph if you are all organic. Just keep giving it molasses. Organic soil can not be flushed of its nutrients so you should be ok, but if you are really worried just add some compost tea. Get a good bag of compost and just dissolve a little bit in you water before you use it. It will be near impossible to burn with this.

i gave them some tea 2 days ago and 2 of them perked up 1 is still showing some Mag def. with light green and yellowing between veins before dying off...... maybe it slowed im still waiting on my cal mag to arrive....odd thing is that the smallest one has developed an issue with her lower old leaves turning a bit darker, wrinkling and then dying seems maybe like a type of burn? heres picsView attachment 1075217View attachment 1075218 any input?

It's hard to tell. Deficiency will usually discolor leaves before they start to die like that. That looks like necrosis or burn. What did you use in the tea?

AN super tea bloom 1/2 strength, molasses and a gal of water. the problem is somewhat contained it seems they were starving though so i fed them their second feeding of this. (i know you are supposed to switch off) but the fert is very low in all NPK and its def. so im continuing this cycle they are thriving though after the feedings.

That plant is still young...you have nutrient burn...are you feeding evertime or are you giving it water in between feedings?

i was using just water for a while and the symptoms still continued for a week and got worse i gave them nutes 1/2 tsp of grow and they loved it and perked up and this has helped reduce the spread significantly it hasnt shifted to any other leaves and growth is flourishing. today is the second week since putting em on 12/12 and i raised it to 1/2 tsp of grow 1/2 tsp of bloom AN mother earth and 3/4 tbsp molasses here are pics today 1 week into flower. still have rust spots in the middle of the leaves a bit of brittling on the tips though. View attachment 1083257View attachment 1083258View attachment 1083259View attachment 1083260

The dark green crunchy leaf tip is from Phosphorus lock up due to lack of nitrogen to help it move. The second pic is what happens in veg.

Peace

IMHO How and what your feeding them is causing it. Organics can be easy but only if you follow instructions, when you get off the path and start mixing and brewing stuff goes wrong if not done properly.

Tea If your just hanging a bag of poop in water save your time and just put it in the garden and water. You need aerobic agitation under the bag to really make it work. The air is the magic bullet here, creates all the living microbes from the poop and they breed like rabbits, without air you got 5% of what you get with air.

Figure 12 shows Phosphorus (P) deficiency during vegatative growth. Many people mistaken this for a fungus, but look for the damage to occur near the end of leave, and leaves the color dull greyish with a very brittle texture.

This condition is rare and usually buffered by pH limitations. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the availability and stability of copper and zinc.

yep that could be it, new leaves have a stripe of neon green at begining of growth but only for about a 1/4 inch in then the leaves are normal color, VERY interesting pattern but im damn sure its nitrogen def. any organic options to raise the levels? i heard avocado peels are high in nitrogen. 1 week 2 days into flowering..btw

here are some ideas

Blood meal (quick release)
Cotton seed meal (advisory:acidifies soil)
Corn gluten meal 10-0-0
Cottonseed meal 6-1-1
Crab meal (slow release)
Feather meal (slow release)
Leather meal (slow release)


peace

worm castings contain immediately available nitrogen.