opinion needed

ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Time to think outside the box; consider building it out as a fully sealed room and just cool the space. AC in the window would be a good start, just make certain it won't leak air outside.

Or, use a chiller and water cooled air handler for the same result. Water in a chilling circuit doesn't carry smell.

Then you add CO² and be the envy of your friends... or just enjoy it yourself.
 
nomofatum

nomofatum

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
Time to think outside the box; consider building it out as a fully sealed room and just cool the space. AC in the window would be a good start, just make certain it won't leak air outside.

Or, use a chiller and water cooled air handler for the same result. Water in a chilling circuit doesn't carry smell.

Then you add CO² and be the envy of your friends... or just enjoy it yourself.
Click to expand...
I was going to say that, but the nosy neighbors would probably think something is weird with the AC running in Feb. Or pointing into a cellar, lol.

Last idea, take that intake fan and make an exhaust in the laundry room or as close to where you are exhausting to as possible. You can exhaust to the upstairs making the air go through the leaks under doors all the way down stairs in a constant loop. No stale hot humid air, always fresh climate controlled intake.

Airflow:
Laundry -> Grow -> Laundry
+
Laundry -> Upstairs -> From entry to stairs, down stairs, under doors --> Laundry
 
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cbuts05

Well-Known Member
nomofatum said:
I was going to say that, but the nosy neighbors would probably think something is weird with the AC running in Feb. Or pointing into a cellar, lol.

Last idea, take that intake fan and make an exhaust in the laundry room or as close to where you are exhausting to as possible. You can exhaust to the upstairs making the air go through the leaks under doors all the way down stairs in a constant loop. No stale hot humid air, always fresh climate controlled intake.

Airflow:
Laundry -> Grow -> Laundry
+
Laundry -> Upstairs -> From entry to stairs, down stairs, under doors --> Laundry
Click to expand...
I appreciate all your ideas..its a concrete slab on the top of the cold cellar ..the only place to go is

The window
The door
Or through the concrete( arriving outside the grow area)

This is my first grow and I'm not setup or can afford all the other gadgets ATM.. Just dropped 700$ I didn't have for the new hood and fan lol..I would just like to eliminate air pressure out near the front of my house..that's why I was wondering if I should exhaust at the top of the door (through the door) ? Into the laundry room..where my passive intake would be coming from at the bottom of the door ( currently fan on peice of wood strapped pulling air in
 
JSB99

JSB99

Well-Known Member
cbuts05 said:
that's why I was wondering if I should exhaust at the top of the door (through the door)
Click to expand...
In that case, yes, exhaust at the top of your door. Maybe put a small fan mounted from a laundry room beam that blows the warm air further down the hall so it has less chance of being sucked back in at the bottom. That's what I would do. Maybe even another fan further down the hall.
 
JSB99

JSB99

Well-Known Member
I imagine it stays cool because it's a cellar. What are your ambient temps? Also, your humidity? Humidity is good for veg but bad for flowering so if it's high you'll want to consider a dehumidifier for flowering.
 
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cbuts05

Well-Known Member
JSB99 said:
In that case, yes, exhaust at the top of your door. Maybe put a small fan mounted from a laundry room beam that blows the warm air further down the hall so it has less chance of being sucked back in at the bottom. That's what I would do. Maybe even another fan further down the hall.
Click to expand...
Hard to go down the hall..it would be seen

No drop cieling yet.. Would just.blowing out top of door be fine..with passive at.bottom
 
JSB99

JSB99

Well-Known Member
cbuts05 said:
Hard to go down the hall..it would be seen

No drop cieling yet.. Would just.blowing out top of door be fine..with passive at.bottom
Click to expand...
The hot air should stay towards the top. What kind of light air you going to be using?

If you just use T5s or CFLs and do a SOG or SCROG then you can avoid most of your heat issues and venting out the top of the door may suffice. If you're going with an HID, then I think it's inevitable that you'll be fighting heat constantly.

Another method in fighting heat is reversing your light schedule so your lights run at night instead of the day. That way they are getting the coolest temperatures possible.
 
JSB99

JSB99

Well-Known Member
cbuts05 said:
I have my lights turn off at 8am-2pm

2 1ks one with ducting
Click to expand...
I think you're going to have a very difficult time controlling the heat. What are the dimensions of the space? If you have dimmable ballasts, you'll probably be best off running them no higher than 600w. 1k's are just so difficult to keep cool unless you have an ideal setup, and I'm sorry to say this, but you don't. I made the same mistake myself, and I think there are many others who have done the same. Running a 600w allows you to get the light closer to the plants and keep the temps much lower.

Also, from the wiring it looks like you've got your ballast in there. Move it outside the room. It creates heat. That's why they come with really long cords.
 
nomofatum

nomofatum

Well-Known Member
What type of heating/cooling do you have? Vents in the laundry room? Cold air intake for furnace/AC?

Watts are how heat is measured. A 1000w bulb will produce the same amount of heat as a 1000w TV or 1000w space heater.
 
mikeykrinshaw12

mikeykrinshaw12

Well-Known Member
what is above the door into the room? is it wood or concrete?
Didn't you already have ducting ran into the house? saw that in your journal. Your set up seems a bit backwards. Do you have room mates or house mates you are worried about? If not, duct out that way into the house and through up into the attic, even all the way out and put a vent in the roof if you want and then when you move out you can just leave it as a passive vent that has a shutter.
If that works you could get your cold air intake through your window instead, passive (screen covered ducting mounted at window so no one can see inside, hardly notice). adding in a small AC later.
 
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cbuts05

Well-Known Member
Well I hooked it all up.. Temps around 90 now with both lights on..8 fan on half way and the air can be heard its too loud..I gotta get rid of the window..
To my original question.

Can I exhaust into my laundry room at the top and Intake at the bottom?
The only way out of that room is through concrete.. Or the door itself
 

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mikeykrinshaw12

mikeykrinshaw12

Well-Known Member
cbuts05 said:
Well I hooked it all up.. Temps around 90 now with both lights on..8 fan on half way and the air can be heard its too loud..I gotta get rid of the window..
To my original question.

Can I exhaust into my laundry room at the top and Intake at the bottom?
The only way out of that room is through concrete.. Or the door itself
Click to expand...
build a shelf that an ac can sit on and do a cut out of the door for it in the same spot you already have your intake. Mount the shelf on the door so it can sit on the shelf. then you will be fine to exhaust into the same room because the air going back in is cooled and cleaner.

But exhaust back out of the door, instead of breaking through that concrete.... saves tons of bucks, work, and is just as effective.

The reverse system I suggested earlier would have worked as well, but if youre willing to do the AC mounted to the door you'll be fine with that too... just make sure there is still clearance to open the door.

Did you even try rigging up your fan with rubber stretchies?
 
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cbuts05

Well-Known Member
mikeykrinshaw12 said:
build a shelf that an ac can sit on and do a cut out of the door for it in the same spot you already have your intake. Mount the shelf on the door so it can sit on the shelf. then you will be fine to exhaust into the same room because the air going back in is cooled and cleaner.

But exhaust back out of the door, instead of breaking through that concrete.... saves tons of bucks, work, and is just as effective.

The reverse system I suggested earlier would have worked as well, but if youre willing to do the AC mounted to the door you'll be fine with that too... just make sure there is still clearance to open the door.

Did you even try rigging up your fan with rubber stretchies?
Click to expand...
Its not the fan noise itself its the air coming out..I want to eliminate the window altogether.. I can't really afford an ac either..I've spent close to 1000$ just on the equipment and another 600 building the room itself..I'm tapped lol..

I think I have no choice but to go through the concrete..
 
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cbuts05

Well-Known Member
Is it safe to go into dryer vent? Still going through concrete to get there.. Lol.but then that would be whistling all day lol
 
mikeykrinshaw12

mikeykrinshaw12

Well-Known Member
thats a sewage overflow line. you don't want to mess with that.

Well, your loss than- save yourself in the long run and go through the door instead!
 
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