woody333333
Well-Known Member
no theyre not..............
old leaves dieng new ones healthy
- Thread starter Hector28
- Start date
scrofula
New Member
View attachment 2984569View attachment 2984570can someone help me please does thus look like a Ph problem or heat stress??
thanks in advance
Ok I'll take your advice, but if my plants die than it'll be the day your proven a dumbass this is my first growth who cares get over yourself. Why come to talk shit when I'm asking for help? One person so far made a lot of sense. U told me some things I've let them dry n the top few inches r dry like u guys told me to allow. There is no way it's heat stress if anythings it's too cold I just raised the temperature
thecannacove
Well-Known Member
Hector, I think scrofula was asking about his plants. Maybe not the best place for him to ask, but i don't think he was saying your problem is heat stress. As for woody, he gives some sound advice on rare occasion but never given without being a huge douche. Although I think he may have been partially right at first, as the soil has had time to dry a bit, I'd say you're looking some other issues just as others have pointed out. Let me read through this again and I'll see if I can offer some helpful advice.
» This message was posted using my phone and the RIU android app. Mi apologies four typeos or pests tha meek know cents ;-p lol «
thecannacove
Well-Known Member
Ok, so... a couple things.
Take it from someone who has gone back and forth with the pH battle, it's not pH that's your problem. If you're growing in an organic soil, you do not need to pH your water. Soil is much different than hydro. Hydro has no natural pH buffer like soil does. If you pH the water (or don't) your soil will automatically buffer the pH of the water almost immediately upon entrance to the soil.
If you DO decide to pH it (waste of time and resources imho), do NOT use pH down (or up). Those chemicals are made for hydro applications and are not meant to find there way into soil. They can do far more bad than good. So... If you must pH your water, use organic methods to do so. Lemon juice will lower pH organically extremely well. But again, I don't believe pH is the problem.
Temps... you mentioned a heat lamp. What is the room temp and do you have a way to take the temp at the canopy (right at the top of your plant)? While room temps may not appear too hot, it's all dependant upon where the thermometer is reading the temp from. Make sure you're reading it from the canopy of your plants. Unless you're in the 60's without the heat lamp, you don't need it. Low 70's are absolutely fine (maybe not perfect, but not bad at all). I would try to stay mid to high 70's, and out the 80's (only until you've ruled out heat as the problem). 80 isn't a bad temp but if your plant has possibly had some heat stress, it's best to keep it in a happy medium of mid 70's.
Lighting/reflective material..... you're using foil, which to most appears to be a good reflective surface but it is very susceptible to wrinkles and once wrinkled you can't get it back to it's original state. The wrinkles can create hot spots, reflecting light unevenly, and can burn your plants. Mylar (space blankets), can do the same thing if not applied to the surface nice and flat. Flat white surface is your friend. If your growing space can be painted with flat white latex paint, it will be extremely beneficial throughout the duration of your grow. What type of lights are you growing with? By the blueish hue of the photos I'm assuming a high Kelvin cfl? If so, you want them nice and close to your plants (elevate your seedlings to be the same distance from the lights as the top of your juvenile plant). This will prevent stretching (the nodes aka: sets of leaves, shouldn't be as far apart as they are). If the plant is growing upwards rapidly and isn't producing a whole lot of side growth, you're shooting yourself the foot.
Few questions that would help us help you:
What is the npk ratio of your soil (I couldn't read it off the bag)? It should be represented by three numbers ie: 20-20-20, 10.5 - 4 - 10.5, etc.
What is the temp at the canopy of your plants?
What kind of lighting are you using?
What fertilizers or nutes are you growing in if any?
What has your watering regimen looked like over the last couple of weeks (volume and frequency)?
Hope some of this helps. I (and others) can give better assistance when the above questions are answered.
» This message was posted using my phone and the RIU android app. Mi apologies four typeos or pests tha meek know cents ;-p lol «
Take it from someone who has gone back and forth with the pH battle, it's not pH that's your problem. If you're growing in an organic soil, you do not need to pH your water. Soil is much different than hydro. Hydro has no natural pH buffer like soil does. If you pH the water (or don't) your soil will automatically buffer the pH of the water almost immediately upon entrance to the soil.
If you DO decide to pH it (waste of time and resources imho), do NOT use pH down (or up). Those chemicals are made for hydro applications and are not meant to find there way into soil. They can do far more bad than good. So... If you must pH your water, use organic methods to do so. Lemon juice will lower pH organically extremely well. But again, I don't believe pH is the problem.
Temps... you mentioned a heat lamp. What is the room temp and do you have a way to take the temp at the canopy (right at the top of your plant)? While room temps may not appear too hot, it's all dependant upon where the thermometer is reading the temp from. Make sure you're reading it from the canopy of your plants. Unless you're in the 60's without the heat lamp, you don't need it. Low 70's are absolutely fine (maybe not perfect, but not bad at all). I would try to stay mid to high 70's, and out the 80's (only until you've ruled out heat as the problem). 80 isn't a bad temp but if your plant has possibly had some heat stress, it's best to keep it in a happy medium of mid 70's.
Lighting/reflective material..... you're using foil, which to most appears to be a good reflective surface but it is very susceptible to wrinkles and once wrinkled you can't get it back to it's original state. The wrinkles can create hot spots, reflecting light unevenly, and can burn your plants. Mylar (space blankets), can do the same thing if not applied to the surface nice and flat. Flat white surface is your friend. If your growing space can be painted with flat white latex paint, it will be extremely beneficial throughout the duration of your grow. What type of lights are you growing with? By the blueish hue of the photos I'm assuming a high Kelvin cfl? If so, you want them nice and close to your plants (elevate your seedlings to be the same distance from the lights as the top of your juvenile plant). This will prevent stretching (the nodes aka: sets of leaves, shouldn't be as far apart as they are). If the plant is growing upwards rapidly and isn't producing a whole lot of side growth, you're shooting yourself the foot.
Few questions that would help us help you:
What is the npk ratio of your soil (I couldn't read it off the bag)? It should be represented by three numbers ie: 20-20-20, 10.5 - 4 - 10.5, etc.
What is the temp at the canopy of your plants?
What kind of lighting are you using?
What fertilizers or nutes are you growing in if any?
What has your watering regimen looked like over the last couple of weeks (volume and frequency)?
Hope some of this helps. I (and others) can give better assistance when the above questions are answered.
» This message was posted using my phone and the RIU android app. Mi apologies four typeos or pests tha meek know cents ;-p lol «
thecannacove
Well-Known Member
Also, what strain? And are these autos? Based on many of the leaves having just 3 tips, looks like these plants may have at least some ruderalis in their DNA..
» This message was posted using my phone and the RIU android app. Mi apologies four typeos or pests tha meek know cents ;-p lol «
» This message was posted using my phone and the RIU android app. Mi apologies four typeos or pests tha meek know cents ;-p lol «
MD914
Well-Known Member
Room temp is 76 degrees i don't know about the canopys. And
Not really all that technical... I know I should be but I'm just now starting... And I'm using a street light.. Literally.. Lol 1800 watt and it's like. A bluish color
What kind of exhaust set up do you have?
thecannacove
Well-Known Member
Hector, MD914 is talking about fresh air intake into your growing area, as well as an exhaust fan for "old" air evacuation. In other words air replacement, not just air movement. Feeding your girls fresh co2 is muy importante!
As far as the soil ratios I was asking about, I would say the soil seems suitable for our beloved plant. The street light I would assume is either halogen or metal halide. I'm also being it makes the canopy temp pretty dang hot. Try moving your thermo as close to the canopy as possible to get a good reading.
Anyhow, I'm pretty sure you're working with a nitrogen deficiency, possibly a magnesium deficiency.
MD914
Well-Known Member
Looking at your other pics I see very small plants in 5 gallon buckets? Has the one your having issues with EVER been transplanted to fresh soil? What kind of drain holes do you have in those buckets? Looks like you've been overwatering to me...for the duration of the grow most likely...do you have little gnats flying around? The nutrition that's in your soil doesn't stay there forever...your plant uses it up (and you've been washing it away with all that water) it needs to be replenished. I used aluminum foil on my first grow...with much lower wattage than your using...I had heat stress issues...You could probably bake a cake in your space with that kinda wattage...Nobody's first grow is flawless...mine sucked...but sometimes you DO just need to sit on your hands 
A little advise...you shouldn't be so rude to someone who's trying to help you...sometimes the simplest advice is the easiest fix...
A little advise...you shouldn't be so rude to someone who's trying to help you...sometimes the simplest advice is the easiest fix...Lol I wasn't rude he's the one talkin shit to someone trying their first grow the only one really being rude here was woody, I tried taking advice and I will try both of yours it is greatly appreciated , I've ordered some things to help me get the info u guys are asking I took down the fool using plain white walls. Looks like no light but I'll post pics soon. Thanks again guys. And I'm like 99% sure from studying them it's an mg defeciency
I don't really know where I can connect some warm fresh air from in -5 degree weather lol
And I understand they like fresh air but at this point that's basically impossible and the amount of co2 I can get barely does anything.
Breathing on them would do more 😂.
But here's why I'm using 1800 watts
I'm just a guy trying to grow some smoke once sorry for the problems and thanks for the help.
Also the drain holes are mimicked off an original pot and I also got a one on each side about 1 and a half inches above the bottom so it didn't drown and drained out properly...
I don't really know where I can connect some warm fresh air from in -5 degree weather lol
And I understand they like fresh air but at this point that's basically impossible and the amount of co2 I can get barely does anything.
Breathing on them would do more 😂.
But here's why I'm using 1800 watts
I'm just a guy trying to grow some smoke once sorry for the problems and thanks for the help.
Also the drain holes are mimicked off an original pot and I also got a one on each side about 1 and a half inches above the bottom so it didn't drown and drained out properly...
MD914
Well-Known Member
No worries...people are only trying to help you...you don't need fresh air from OUTSIDE just outside the grow area...Woody may not have made it through charm school...but he knows what he's talking about. And I believe he wanted you to let those pots dry up a bit before adding anything to them. Better for them to be thirsty than over watered...what's with all the plastic wrapped around those pots?Lol I wasn't rude he's the one talkin shit to someone trying their first grow the only one really being rude here was woody, I tried taking advice and I will try both of yours it is greatly appreciated , I've ordered some things to help me get the info u guys are asking I took down the fool using plain white walls. Looks like no light but I'll post pics soon. Thanks again guys. And I'm like 99% sure from studying them it's an mg defeciency
I don't really know where I can connect some warm fresh air from in -5 degree weather lol
And I understand they like fresh air but at this point that's basically impossible and the amount of co2 I can get barely does anything.
Breathing on them would do more .
But here's why I'm using 1800 watts
I'm just a guy trying to grow some smoke once sorry for the problems and thanks for the help.
Also the drain holes are mimicked off an original pot and I also got a one on each side about 1 and a half inches above the bottom so it didn't drown and drained out properly...
It's really just a way I'm using right now to drain excess water and I believe it, but why let them get too thirsty? And I've been letting them sit with no water. And oh okay.. I'll figure something out I've been reading more on that.. What's the best way to treat mg deficiency? I'm almost certain it's that... But top inch or two are becoming dry
MD914
Well-Known Member
Well if the top inch or two is JUST becoming dry...imagine what the rest of it must be like...if your having heat issues you can lock out calcium...which will lock out magnesium...you have a multitude of problems going on...but before you can address them you need to start with the basics...I'd personally transplant into fresh soil...get them out of that soggy (below) soil...
thecannacove
Well-Known Member
Hector, I second MD's suggestion to transplant into fresh soil. Your root mass is likely not of great volume at this point, so it shouldn't be a huge undertaking. You don't need "new" soil right this moment, but I'd order some up if you can. Just transplant your roots into a slightly smaller bucket of some less moist soil so they aren't sitting in stagnant water that the plant can't use quick enough. If after a 4-5 days your plant is not bouncing back and leaves are still growing with the yellow hue between the leaves veins, then I'd treat with some cal-mag+ (order some on Amazon, it's not overly expensive). I'd go about 3ml/gal. If you have done vitamin B1 supplement or super thrive (available at home depot and the like), give your plants some just after transplant to help them with shock.
Growing is all about overcoming stuff like this. You got this man, you'll be a gardener yet
just keep us updated and we'll help you through it. » This message was posted using my phone and the RIU android app. Mi apologies four typeos or pests tha meek know cents ;-p lol «