Is there a window in the spare room? Put the AC in there, and build around that. Have the vent blowing up into the attic, or out the same window as the ac is blowing in. Then make sure you are using an oscillator to move the AC around. Venting into your house is a very bad idea. As stated above. Have you thought about going 5x5 instead?ok.. i have a 1000w, easy cool hood 6", 6" 424 cfm fan.
I tried to setup in a bathroom and vent the 6" inline out the bathroom exhaust. No bueno, hit temps up to 90 degrees.. so i tried venting it into the bedroom, temp went to 86, but jesus that fan is loud and it was hard to sleep.
so plan F comes.
I am going to frame out a 4x4 grow "tent" and line the walls with 6 mil poly in my spare bedroom. I am going to run the 1000w with the fan exhausting hot air into the bedroom. I am then going to add a 10000 btu window style AC unit into the tent, then exhaust that in the bedroom also. I completely built out my bathroom just to have it fail, so i figured i would ask some opinions. See attached preschooler drawing!
Ok, So My Dream Setup was a Nightmare. Time for Plan F
- Thread starter 08GSXR600
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iampolluted
Well-Known Member
check this out...i wrote up a diy thread on another website for building a 4x4 tent utilizing a 1k hps and 424 cfm fan. when i built this tent it wasn't meant to be sealed, so i had a booster fan laying around and used it to push air across the light, and the exhaust fan to clear the leftover heat. only hit 85 a few times, nothing major, you can do this..... here's the link to the thread....http://www.hydrocanna.com/diy-do-yourself/7255-another-diy-tent.html.....your main goal is going to be keeping the room outside the tent cool. your exhaust fan will make sure the tent is cool. if the air outside the tent is 80+ the tent will be 80+. you won't even need an a/c until if you have central air. your air movement is the key to keeping temps stable.
if the noise is an issue, wrap the fan in a blanket or sleeping bag, and hanging it from bungee cords if at all possible. you can also buy or make duct mufflers.
if the noise is an issue, wrap the fan in a blanket or sleeping bag, and hanging it from bungee cords if at all possible. you can also buy or make duct mufflers.
medheadgrw
Active Member
All depends on how much light penetration you need. Yes a 400 will be fine if you are only running a few plants but lets say you run 20 plants in that 4x4 or even 30 plants...will the 400 still be strong enough to get light everywhere? I think not. 1000 for 4x4 is perfect in my opinion.
medheadgrw
Active Member
I run 20 in each of my 3x3 tables (I have 6 tables and 6 lights)...my point is in a 4x4 I could run 30.
But to answer your question, I veg for about 3 weeks...here are pics of my setup. I harvest 2 tables every 3 weeks. The plants in these pics are from this week and are currently 5 weeks flowering.
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But to answer your question, I veg for about 3 weeks...here are pics of my setup. I harvest 2 tables every 3 weeks. The plants in these pics are from this week and are currently 5 weeks flowering.
View attachment 1604352View attachment 1604359View attachment 1604363View attachment 1604367View attachment 1604368View attachment 1604373View attachment 1604384View attachment 1604386View attachment 1604390View attachment 1604392View attachment 1604396View attachment 1604398
08GSXR600
Well-Known Member
Couldn't get link to work.
Update. Framed out my 4x6x6 room within a room today. Why us it bad to vent into another portion of the house if window isn't option.? Cutting into ceiling isn't ideal either.
medheadgrw
Active Member
It is fine to vent to another portion of the house but it will either a. smell a lot and be humid if it is room air being vented OR b. be very hot air if it is just air from the hoods.
08GSXR600
Well-Known Member
thanks. thats exactly what i plan on doing. i went a bit bigger on the tent.. 4' deep, 6' high 6' wide i framed it out today with 2"x4" and taped up the poly. going to put light and fans in tomorrow and run a test.. i have a few ideas just incase this doesnt keep temps down.
macdadyabc
Well-Known Member
are those emergency blankets? because those arent light-proof. i would just get a 4x4 grow tent for 120 bucks.
NoGutsGrower
Well-Known Member
nothing wrong with low to mid 80's, It was almost 80 where I live today. Plants grow outside in temps over 100. Sure the lower temp might work better, but I have no problem letting my room get into the 80's.
medheadgrw
Active Member
What kind of intake and exhaust fans? Is the hood for your light air cooled?
medheadgrw
Active Member
Use a higher cfm fan for the hoods and use the fan u have now as an exhaust...I ran six 600 watt air cooled ballasts in a room with no ac...75 degrees no problem...just get air moving and you will be fine. I run three of these http://www.amazon.com/Can-Fan-HO-Centrifugal-722/dp/B001I4BFWY
2 for my lights and one for my exhaust...ended up having to get a fan speed controller for the exhaust fan because the room would get too cool. Much cheaper than running an ac
2 for my lights and one for my exhaust...ended up having to get a fan speed controller for the exhaust fan because the room would get too cool. Much cheaper than running an ac
One could always make a switch to LED. Certain few companies do make proven lights, the biggest benefit is the lack of heat. I went from a 400w HPS set up to a 395w LED (that really uses that many watts from the wall) and my heat output dropped at least 75% both in the tent and my bedroom, some growers like Irishboy have actually said that even though they love LED more now they have to use HID in the winter because it gets too cold with the LEDs I'd say watt for watt good LED panels put out less than 25% as much heat as HPS.
I have my 395w panel in a 2.5x2.5 tent and the ambient temp in the tent only raises above 70 once you go above the light (below the light its 70, above its 75-80) The glass is so far from hot you can't get uncomfortable touching it (absolutely 0 heat projected down towards the plants. The only real reason I switched to LED and paid so much extra upfront ($2.78 per watt) was because I didn't want to have to deal with heat. I can keep my window/door/heatvent closed all day and not worry at all about the tent in my room, where with the 400w HPS i had to keep my bedroom window open all day and hope that it was cold enough outside to keep it out of the 80s in my whole bedroom (and 80-90s in the tent)
I have my 395w panel in a 2.5x2.5 tent and the ambient temp in the tent only raises above 70 once you go above the light (below the light its 70, above its 75-80) The glass is so far from hot you can't get uncomfortable touching it (absolutely 0 heat projected down towards the plants. The only real reason I switched to LED and paid so much extra upfront ($2.78 per watt) was because I didn't want to have to deal with heat. I can keep my window/door/heatvent closed all day and not worry at all about the tent in my room, where with the 400w HPS i had to keep my bedroom window open all day and hope that it was cold enough outside to keep it out of the 80s in my whole bedroom (and 80-90s in the tent)
hgkdehs
Active Member
A 10000 btu AC unit puts off a TON of heat out the back, which will seriously heat up the room outside your tent. This extreme heat will be pulled back into your tent by your intake. There will be nowhere for the accumulating heat to go. It has to be exhausted somewhere. AC's work by pulling heat out of the room and exhausting it out the back by a fan blowing over the condenser. That is how they WORK. By keeping it in your room like that, it isn't exhausting the heat at all, only recirculating it, which will do basically nothing. Your best bet is to put the AC unit in the window of the room housing your tent. A lot of people have a central AC unit and keep a window unit in their bedroom because they like it a bit cooler in there. I edited your diagram to show how it should be set up. Trust me, keeping the AC in a room like that without exhausting the heat is a BAD idea
