Week4@inCharge
Well-Known Member
White Shark or Mykos works well.
Official Gaia Green Grow Method
- Thread starter GiovanniJones
- Start date
Hey man , looking great. i have two questions ! roughly when do you top the plant ? and also when do you train and cut the lower leaves ? also what humidity and temps do you aim for during the grow ?
thanks so much for all the help. god bless.
BubbaGum
Well-Known Member
Hey fellas, was hoping to get some opinions on diagnosing plant issues. I know this would be more appropriate in the other forum but in using Gaia green (swed’s recipe) and thought y’all will have better advice accordingly.
recipe is 4gallons of promix
3/4 cup of 444
Cup of ewc
1/4 cup glacial dust
3/4 cup diatomaceous earth
Tap water run through a brita (tap ph is 7-7.2
in 7 gal netpots for room to top dress and grow. Vegged from clones for 3 weeks. Grape gas and tropic cherry.
this is a first grow mix so it’s possible the plants just aren’t breaking everything down yet. If anyone has thoughts or constructive criticism please give!
Using a soil probe I’m getting ph readings from 6.2 to 7 in spots, so current plan is to start ph-ing water. Might add sulfur or something to lower overall soil but I’m aware it’ll become more acidic overtime so might not be necessary. Here’s some pictures.
seeing raised leaf edges and what I THINK is calcium deficiency or high ph
Last pic is a smaller plant with twisted deformed new growth (several other leaves have been slightly twisted.
so question is, stay the course or take corrective measures (or tweak recipe?)
recipe is 4gallons of promix
3/4 cup of 444
Cup of ewc
1/4 cup glacial dust
3/4 cup diatomaceous earth
Tap water run through a brita (tap ph is 7-7.2
in 7 gal netpots for room to top dress and grow. Vegged from clones for 3 weeks. Grape gas and tropic cherry.
this is a first grow mix so it’s possible the plants just aren’t breaking everything down yet. If anyone has thoughts or constructive criticism please give!
Using a soil probe I’m getting ph readings from 6.2 to 7 in spots, so current plan is to start ph-ing water. Might add sulfur or something to lower overall soil but I’m aware it’ll become more acidic overtime so might not be necessary. Here’s some pictures.
seeing raised leaf edges and what I THINK is calcium deficiency or high ph
Last pic is a smaller plant with twisted deformed new growth (several other leaves have been slightly twisted.
so question is, stay the course or take corrective measures (or tweak recipe?)
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Week4@inCharge
Well-Known Member
soil takes time to mature, and not sure why you added glacial dust when 4 4 4 has everything you need. I wouldn't do nothing but foliar spray a light cal mag mix once a day ( mornings) and see how that goes for you. cap ful to 32 ounce spray bottle abouts. Make it easy on yourself and just stick with the 444. EWC is cool to use to get the biology going in the soil. Less is more. Good luck.
weedstoner420
Well-Known Member
Make sure the soil is evenly moist throughout, with a gentle breeze blowing over the pots, and come back in 3 to 5 business days. Maybe turn the light up a hair if you feel inclined to do anything at all at this point.
Week4@inCharge
Well-Known Member
I have two pots set up with Gaia Green 4 4 4 letting them cook for about 3 weeks, these pots were used from my last grow and are re amended with the 4 4 4. They're now over ridden with fungus gnats... curses. I know the easiest thing to do is to just dump it all and start over with a fresh bag soil.
Week4@inCharge
Well-Known Member
Just what weedstoner mentioned, checking the PAR above them ladies would be a good start.
They do seem to love Gaia but they're not so bad of a pest that you need to start over. Get some sticky traps and BTI, problem solved. The fresh soil might have gnats too or some might fly in.
thanks pal. what’s the best PAR meter ? Does a LUX meter not work well for this ?
Week4@inCharge
Well-Known Member
You can use a lux, I did my first couple grows with success. Lux is the total light measurements that us humans can see, PAR is the total USABLE light spectrum for the plants (and yes there's a difference between the two). The Lux will get you in the ball park but the PAR is where you really want to be.
How to Use a Cheap Lux Meter to Increase Yields | Grow Weed Easy
An inexpensive lux meter lets you measure that amount of light at a specific point in space - learn how to use this tool to increase your yields!
www.growweedeasy.com
thanks mate. any recommendations on lux during seedling ? then veg then flower ?You can use a lux, I did my first couple grows with success. Lux is the total light measurements that us humans can see, PAR is the total USABLE light spectrum for the plants (and yes there's a difference between the two). The Lux will get you in the ball park but the PAR is where you really want to be.
How to Use a Cheap Lux Meter to Increase Yields | Grow Weed Easy
An inexpensive lux meter lets you measure that amount of light at a specific point in space - learn how to use this tool to increase your yields!
Week4@inCharge
Well-Known Member
It's all there on that link I posted, happy reading.
JustBlazin
Well-Known Member
Hey man try and sprinkle some aquabac on top of your pots with fungus gnats. It's what got rid of my gnat problem I battled for at least 2 years, tried almost everything to get rid of them. Aquabac is the only thing that has worked.
JustBlazin
Well-Known Member
Wanted to update this thread with a little experiment I'm trying.
I've used Gaia green for years now amending promix and re amending after each flower cycle. Usually would let pots sit with blumats still installed for 2 weeks to a month so the root balls break down a bit. It makes it alot easier breaking them up when I add more nutrients and put in my tote to cook.i had 2 batches of soil so i could flower with one while i cooked the other in totes from the previous flower run. this is what I've done for years and it works really well.
Unfortunately end of last year I got hlv through clones from auntie janes nursery and ended up having to toss all my plants and also tossed my soil I had around for years.
So started fresh with a bunch of clone only cuts from the states that I was able to get to Canada and made a new batch of soil.
But these last few months I've been very busy and didn't have time to make another new batch of soil during the flower run I just did.
So I remembered in the big blumat thread on icmag that the original blumat user had a friend that instead of re amanding in a big tote like me, he would just add some Gaia green to the individual pots and just pot on top and go.
So here's what I did.
I have 2 gallon pots in my flower tent and just put in small clones.
So for each 2 gallon pot I dug a hole and put in 2 table spoon of 4-4-4, put a little of soil over it and just potted on top.
Then I dug a hole like I usually do under the blumat drip line and put 2 TBS of 4-4-4 into it along with a teaspoon of Epson salts.
So I'm hoping it works as good as if I mixed it in totes but time will tell.
here they are from back left to right
Triangle Kush, Macdaddy, Stardawg Guava, RS11
Ecsd, stardawg Corey, Irene og, chem 91
Chem D(joes), chem D(gmo), Capjunky,chimera 3
Bubba Kush, Red runtz, topanga canyon pure kush
The big ones in back I planted in the 2 gal pots a week before this pic and the others I just plugged into the 2 gal pots. The smaller 5 on right side in front were clones I just got in so they are super small and are going to be behind as they get used to new environment.
Have my fingers crossed it all works out
I've used Gaia green for years now amending promix and re amending after each flower cycle. Usually would let pots sit with blumats still installed for 2 weeks to a month so the root balls break down a bit. It makes it alot easier breaking them up when I add more nutrients and put in my tote to cook.i had 2 batches of soil so i could flower with one while i cooked the other in totes from the previous flower run. this is what I've done for years and it works really well.
Unfortunately end of last year I got hlv through clones from auntie janes nursery and ended up having to toss all my plants and also tossed my soil I had around for years.
So started fresh with a bunch of clone only cuts from the states that I was able to get to Canada and made a new batch of soil.
But these last few months I've been very busy and didn't have time to make another new batch of soil during the flower run I just did.
So I remembered in the big blumat thread on icmag that the original blumat user had a friend that instead of re amanding in a big tote like me, he would just add some Gaia green to the individual pots and just pot on top and go.
So here's what I did.
I have 2 gallon pots in my flower tent and just put in small clones.
So for each 2 gallon pot I dug a hole and put in 2 table spoon of 4-4-4, put a little of soil over it and just potted on top.
Then I dug a hole like I usually do under the blumat drip line and put 2 TBS of 4-4-4 into it along with a teaspoon of Epson salts.
So I'm hoping it works as good as if I mixed it in totes but time will tell.
here they are from back left to right
Triangle Kush, Macdaddy, Stardawg Guava, RS11
Ecsd, stardawg Corey, Irene og, chem 91
Chem D(joes), chem D(gmo), Capjunky,chimera 3
Bubba Kush, Red runtz, topanga canyon pure kush
The big ones in back I planted in the 2 gal pots a week before this pic and the others I just plugged into the 2 gal pots. The smaller 5 on right side in front were clones I just got in so they are super small and are going to be behind as they get used to new environment.
Have my fingers crossed it all works out
Week4@inCharge
Well-Known Member
It'll work, I reuse my soil by pulling the root ball (from the pots last used) just before transplant from party cup seedlings. Top soil re amending works. The theory is that you have feeder roots that grab food from the top and water roots that grab water from the bottom. I tried blumats (while on vacation) last year and the roots grew all around them tight. Had to scrape them clean after use. But yeah top dressing works, think it's called No Till.
Learner11316
Active Member
Hey man,
currently running these and on week 5 of flower. Same seeds so I’m just wondering did they yield well? How was the smoke?
BubbaGum
Well-Known Member
I’m new to this method of growing, currently preparing for some new clones to arrive and prepping soil (which I didn’t do enough of at first), any pointers on cooking the soil to get a good myco growth? Do I just water the soil and keep moist? Any rules for the container being airtight?
Week4@inCharge
Well-Known Member
I've had conversations (from those in the know) that some soils sold have the Mycos in them already and that it only takes a week for them to take hold after initial watering. I still use additional Mykos on every transplant just because. So if the above is true the mycorrhizae should only take a week to spawn and do its thing. Now for the fresh soil to cook, that could take 30 days or so. Some push it at two weeks but me personally I've had better results after 30days or so. That's just on the initial use, after that you should be able to reuse your soil for half dozen grows. Just top them up with dry amendments before use again. your recharging the soil with nutes. Some of those nutes take 3-6 months to fully decompose, hence the reason your 2nd and 3rd grows come out way better than the first. I'm still learning so I'll answer as much questions as I can, only repeating what's already been said here (on this site) 1000 times already. Takes a few grows for it to sink in though. Tough going full organic when learning so keep that Cal Mag close by.
Mathew Foley
Member
Top dressing is just adding nutrients to the top of the media. LOS (Living Organic Soil) is what it sounds like too. No till is basically LOS but it's not tilled.