Nutrients help

hello to all I've been looking up on nutrients to use for the new grow i'm starting shortly(northern lights),research first, pounds spent later.
can anyone give me the basics and abit more information about nutrients for my new first grow?
many thanks,Cameron.:D
 

Chef420

Well-Known Member
Nutrients can be as simple or complicated as you like, synthetic or organic.
Search "nutrients for cannabis" on YouTube.
And
growweedeasy.com
 

dtl420

Well-Known Member
I use dyna grow as far as actual nutrients. Grow for veg and bloom for bloom.

Look into myco grow on fungi.com, the one oz packs can be spread across multiple plants for the entire grow. I mix the soluble myco grow with every watering, about a quarter tsp per gal. It's great for brewing microbe tea. Mix a teaspoon with a five gallon bucket of water and a couple tablespoons of molasses. Maybe some worm castings and alfalfa meal in a sock brewed with it.

Fulvic/humic acids are great. Compost in a bottle. I use botanicare fulvex, great stuff. Add to your teas.

Dyna gro protekt is a good silicate supplement. Potassium silicate. It's especially good for soilless mediums, which most potting mix is soilless.

Cal-mag is good to have on hand. I use Humboldt calyx magnum. It's not quite as essential with tap water, as tap water usually already contains sufficient levels of calcium, and some Epsom salt from Walmart is good for the mg and sulfur(magnesium sulfate, tomato gardeners swear by it).

That'd be a pretty good start, imo. Read about organic amendments to add to you soil/tea. Find that balance between organic and synthetic and get the flavor of organic with the yield of synthetic.
 

roseypeach

Well-Known Member
Depends on what type of grow, DWC, soil, etc.. For any hydro setup I'd recommend the GH 3 part system, as I've had tremendous results with it myself. As far as soil grows, that would depend on whether you are into organic gardening or not. I really don't have any advice for you there because since I discovered hydro and GH my soil days are behind me :)

EDIT: I buy the GH system by the gallon and have used the same 3 bottles on my last two grows. It's a tad pricey but well worth it in the end.
 
I'm looking at a 4ft by 4ft tent with the "4 pot Wilma system" that I believe is hydroponics and will be growing 4 northern lights in that system.is this enough? Small ones are 11ltrs,I was also curious to will there be enough light using 600w t5 x8 4ft tubes?
 

moondance

Well-Known Member
Hi how are you, in a 4x4 tent yeah you can do a nice grow with 4, you can train and top to fill that space with room to water still, I veg under an 8 bulb t5 unit with mixed spectrum bulbs, and my flower chamber is bare bulb vertical 600w ushio opti red bulb, so yeah as long as you can manage the heat evacuation and air flow rate you sound like you have a good plan running forward. Welcome!
Moondance
 
If I'm getting the 4x4 grow room with wilma system, will the 600w t5 lighting be sufficient? the wilma system area is 1m by 1m
manythanks
cameron
 

roseypeach

Well-Known Member
I'm looking at a 4ft by 4ft tent with the "4 pot Wilma system" that I believe is hydroponics and will be growing 4 northern lights in that system.is this enough? Small ones are 11ltrs,I was also curious to will there be enough light using 600w t5 x8 4ft tubes?
Should be sufficient though you could pull more weight with more watts. Our total cost to grow is around a dollar a gram with two 1K HPS light systems ;)
 
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dtl420

Well-Known Member
Thankyou chef420 and a bigger thankyou for the run down there DTL420 I've been doing research on this for weeks and should've just come on here all along:) will keep updating:)
Not a problem at all. There's a lot more out there, but there's a lot of snake oil. A lot of the bud sweeteners are just molasses remarketed and twice the price.

The more experience you get the more you'll learn about what you do and don't need. For instance, I use tap water that's been aired out for 24hrs to remove chlorine, it has a ppm reading around 180 which supplies sufficient calcium. A very common deficiency is magnesium, but if I just loaded my nutrient water with calmag I would end up with WAY too much calcium which blocks out all kinds of other nutrients. Instead I'll load it up with magnesium sulfate (plain old Epsom salt) to treat the deficiency without causing 12 other deficiencies..

I could go on and on for days, but in the end it comes down to experience. Check out Mulder's chart of nutrient antagonism, it shows us just how delicate nutrient balances are. There are also charts for the relationship between ph and nutrient availability. Study that shit religiously. But never be afraid to ask questions. some people on here are full of shit, but there are a few guys on these forums that really know their shit and would love to help.
 
Not a problem at all. There's a lot more out there, but there's a lot of snake oil. A lot of the bud sweeteners are just molasses remarketed and twice the price.

The more experience you get the more you'll learn about what you do and don't need. For instance, I use tap water that's been aired out for 24hrs to remove chlorine, it has a ppm reading around 180 which supplies sufficient calcium. A very common deficiency is magnesium, but if I just loaded my nutrient water with calmag I would end up with WAY too much calcium which blocks out all kinds of other nutrients. Instead I'll load it up with magnesium sulfate (plain old Epsom salt) to treat the deficiency without causing 12 other deficiencies..

I could go on and on for days, but in the end it comes down to experience. Check out Mulder's chart of nutrient antagonism, it shows us just how delicate nutrient balances are. There are also charts for the relationship between ph and nutrient availability. Study that shit religiously. But never be afraid to ask questions. some people on here are full of shit, but there are a few guys on these forums that really know their shit and would love to help.
I shall read up on pH and nutrients levels then haha thankyou again,yes I've seen some threads don't get a second spent on them so I'm grateful for All the Information :)
 

Got4m2e0

Well-Known Member
My best advice that I discovered works like this.

start with what you can get near to you. If it has to be shipped than that's a bummer but you can work with it. It best to get local or semi local so if something happens you can go grab what you need and not have to grab something you haven't used before because you needed it now not then.

After that, Avoid the ones with way too many supplements. My basic premise is simple, if you need that many ingredients to have a successful grow that blows your mind then it is best to assume they have a line that is not complete, contains PGR's, or is nothing but a lot of expensive gimmicks or overpriced black strap molasses. Lines like Heavy 16, House and Garden, Canna, all how reputations and very few Supplements. In fact their base alone will give you good results and some how some of the few things extra really do what they claim although there tends to be at least one, or more, that does nothing at all. beware of "Humbolts Own" brand, they have PGR's (Plant Growth Regulators) many have been banned for any usein anything other than ornamental due to how they build up in plant tissue. Some PGR's come from nature like what may be found in alfalfa. Humbolts Own has gained a bad rep, they could of changed there ingredients but they still make the products that can stop seed production if you have a herm. If it is too good to be true than it is Probably loaded with PGR's.

Price is another to consider. I have found that cheaper brands tend to be... for lack of a better definition, "dirty". For example, and I am not knocking the brand, but General Hydro tends to cause a build up of solids with a small amount of use. Koolbloom is a good example, you will see little brown bundles start to build in the rez with one use. Some say it is because of poor sourcing of material and I will agree it seems to be the case but the price point compared to say Canna is night and Day. Or House and Garden which is easy for me to get and has proven to be a very expensive and clean line. I have fee samples of General Hydro that was given to me from hydro stores over time I just cant seem to bring my self to actually pull myself away from house and Garden and give it a whirl. Been wanting to and started once only to continue with H&G anyways.

Big suggestion and I hope you follow this one. Pick a line and stick with it and don't mix till you get familiar with and good at reading your plants. If anything just use the Base with maybe a light PK booster if the line you pick does not carry a flowering variant.

I'm a hydro guy myself and have a love of COCO and feel it is a very forgiving form of hydro that has its own quirks that I have grown to love. With soil I always grew true organic and did not use Concentrates which is organic based not true Organic in the sense of synergy between plant and soil. I found through Hydro that I can do better than mother nature LOL. Than again, mother nature Likes and Fights for balance and the goal is to offset that balance in hopes to produce more. thus, take mother nature out of it and feed direct with a mostly inert medium. I say mostly because COCO is a beast all its own and requires a little knowledge that apply to it alone.

Hope this is helpful, there is a really cool way to grow true organic that was developed by a breeder called subcool, its called supersoil and all you do is water once you make it and it feeds to completion. It works good, gives great results and is so easy. Good luck happy growing.
 
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Got4m2e0

Well-Known Member
If I'm getting the 4x4 grow room with wilma system, will the 600w t5 lighting be sufficient? the wilma system area is 1m by 1m
manythanks
cameron

When it comes to lights, and this is my personal view not meant to start an argument. I found that the Old fashion ballast style is still the gold standard used in most industrial grows to this day. When it comes to light penetration you really cant beat HPS. Flouros are good for veg and will help keep the growth slow and heat down. I have no experience with LED. Some People swear by them, other say they are only good for Veg. Its been a few years so I'm sure the technology has come a ways although I would be skeptical about using them in flower until I have tried them in Veg first to see what they can do. When you want dense buds, I really cant think of anything better than HPS and for a 4X4 space you need a 1000Watt and a way to handle the heat. Good ventilation, best to do in a basement for the Geothermal cooling ability. That's my take on the topic of lights that has served me very well. I have seen pictures of LED grows that looked great but I don't know if density was lacking or not and can't speak for them.

FYI, fun fact you may find interesting. UVB bulbs can help to Increase potency. Aim for 100Watts for every 1000 and you don't need to run them the 12 hours. its a way to trick the plant into producing more oils to protect its genetics from the harmful rays of the sun such as UVA. Reptile light can do just that. I offer this info as food for thought and suggest you don't worry about it until you have had a few grows and start to have the urge to experiment. Growing can become a bit of a passion. Experimenting is some of the fun and it never hurts to try new things once you have perfected one.

I hope I have offered up something you may find to be helpful on some level. I wish you a lot of luck and fun on the journey of growing for the first time.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
has anyone else grown orignal northern lights?so many mixed up/messed up cheap northernlights strains out there atm
I got the old NL#5 purchased from Marc Emery's seed bank about '02. The Kali Mist as well and they make a nice cross I call Northern Mist. :)

:peace:
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
If I'm getting the 4x4 grow room with wilma system, will the 600w t5 lighting be sufficient? the wilma system area is 1m by 1m
manythanks
cameron
When you say 600w t5 do you mean you it comes with t5s for veg and a 600w hps for flowering? If it does that's perfect. A 600 will do great in a 4x4. 1000W is overkill and the extra heat is a PITA for most. I'm going to be using a 1000 on a 6' light rail to do an 8x4 in a month or so.

For nutes in a soilless media you can't get anything better and easier to use than Advanced Nutrients pH Perfect nutes. The money you save by not needing a pH pen and the various sol'ns to use it properly will more than cover any difference in price of the cheaper brands if not pay for a liter each of the 3-part. I just got gallon jugs of it.

Big Bud is my bloom booster of choice and I've used it since they started making it 14 years ago or something like that. Small amounts like 130g of the powdered one can be bought of that and it will do a dozen or more plants making a big difference in the yield. A small calmag of any brand is cheap and AN's Rhino Skin, a potassium silicate mix that works with the pH perfect nutes and grows stronger healthier plants and comes in small, 250ml jugs too. That's all you'ld need to do three or four grows in that tent. Don't follow the instructions on the bottle tho. If you decide to go that way just ask and I'll tell you how I have been doing it for years.

Those nutes are all perfect for hydro as well.

:peace:
 
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