Nut Burn, Cal Mag Or Light Burn?

My clones just finished week 2 of flower. I'm using R/O water in DWC. Im using sensi bloom by advanced. I had the nutrients pretty low sitting around 220 ppm everything was fine then I I slowly raised it to 300ppm in the over the past 3 days. I have 4 clones all in one tube and there all showing the same signs. I also added another 400 watt Metal halide so total I have 400 HPS and 400 Metal Halide. I have the light pretty far away around 24 inchs. Ph is around 5.8

I added cal mag last night, it looks like it has gotten worse. This all started happening when I raised the nutrients. Im at such a low ppm for week 3 of flowering its seems hard to believe nut burn? What do you guys think?

Whole plant pics always help. Those leaves are on the top of the plant? How are the lower leaves? Which Sensi Bloom are you using? A, B or Cal? It's usually not a good idea to only feed your plants one thing. Variety helps prevent deficiencies and toxicities.

Im feeding them sensi bloom part a and b. Yesterday I gave a small dose of cal mag by advanced yesterday about 2ml for 5 gallons. I just put 3ml more today. Im also using bud candy and big bud. It seems like its affecting most the leaves. I will get more pics up soon. How much cal mag should I be using? Does it look like its a cal or mag problem?

Heres some more pictures. It looks like its only happening on the upper leafs? any ideas?

Hearing what you're feeding them and seeing that little bit of plant in the far right of the first (of 2nd 3) pic, I think they need more Phosphorus. They may need some extra N as well but the HPS light makes it hard to see how green everything is. I would try giving them a Guano tea with N & P.

run ph at 5.5. oyur having multi issues there. its not eating and has rust disease. thats not cal its rust. the funky colouring inbetween the veins is telling me its locked out.
your only at 300 or so ppm???..in flower. wow way to low. so may not be locked just starving for food...should be about 1200 ppm by time we go to flower...full food, as long as the ph is good then they cant burn if high ppm...they cant intake it if they dont need it

Roger I will raise the ppm and keep my ph low. The reason I have my ppm low is I started these straight into flowering from clones. So im sure 1200 ppm would be to much

Also with that smaller plant it was a very small clone when i started conmpard to the others and its roots we're last to hit the water. Im not seeing any of these problems with it. Its the larger plants which im having problems with.

ah ok. id hit at about 700 then go to 1000 then full feed then. at 5.5 the food is more available to them

Okay my plants are still growing just I have some weird dark spots appearing on my plants. Its hard to point out in the pictures but they are pretty dark. My ph is stays around 5.5-5.6 I have my nutrients at 550 ppm still trying to slowly raise it to around 700. I grew these same strains in my last grow and I was using General hydroponics and did not have any of these problems. Did I get a bad batch of nutrients from advanced?

The dark is fine.
I think the edges of the leaves show a pretty obvious Potassium shortage. I don't see any Phosphate deficiency, but you were right on with the cal-mag.
High temperatures would be another guess, but I think Medi 1 actually did it right with the ppm's, definitely need them over 300 for flowering. I'm running about 950 in my Coco.

Here are better pics under my metal halide.

You definately have a unique problem there. I hope you get it figured out so I can save pics of this interesting problem. What's probably happening is a combination of deficiencies, which is why it doesn't show characteristics of any one deficiency. I've been thinking K and N defs.

Once I up my nutrients this should fix all the deficiencies?

Not necessarily. When a deficency forms it's usually a good idea to add a new fertilizer. What can happen is the more of everything else you give the plant, the more defficient in a given nutrient it can be. If I was giving 3-3-3 ferts to a plant that became N deficient, giving it more P & K could make it even more N deficient since it would have an even lower ratio of N to the other two macronutes.

Increasing the existing nutes should really help but if in your travels you see another fertilizer you'd like to try, try a mixture of the two in order to add some nutrients not found in what you're using now.

If you notice that a certain fertilizer or combination of ferts solves the problem, please post your findings so there is a record of how to fix this issue.

400w bulbs should be a foot away from the tops of the plants if cooled adequately. A more exact measurement might be 10" if heat isn't a concern, but the two inches is usually needed to allow for plant growth..

dude I have used sensi bloom for my last to crops and have had nothing but problems with it. If you don't use all the additives then you will end up with all sorts of defs. Don't believe the hype about ADVANCED NUTRIENTS, because they are not all that their cracked up to be. I would add some calmag and give it a few days. Here is a prime example: I have an old jar of bigbud and on the old jar there is 7% mag put in it and on the new jar of big bud there isn't any mag....Now the mag is in BUD CANDY (another 30 bucks a quart) The thing about advanced nutrients is that the switch their ingredients up so much they force you to but lots of their additives just to complete your food. If your smart you would find a different food line to use because your gonna end up with nothing but headaches. I'm looking into dynagrow line now. Complete line if 4 different things and that's it. Good luck o and ps on my last crop I was feeding real light cause i was scared of burning my ladies at about 1 1\2 teaspoons per gallon every water and they were completely underfed, this crop my last 2-3 waterings have been 3.25 teaspoons per gallon and havent seen any signs of burning them yet. In my opinion its almost impossible to hone in on the perfect ratio with them, and im in promix. Im almost starting to think that their ratios on their bottles are complete BULLSHIT

Well im switching nutrients then. I had zero problems with general hydroponic. I might try there 2 part sytem. This is my first grow with sensi bloom and im hating it.

Haven't tried them myself but you're the second person I've read didn't like the Sensi Bloom.

I feel for ya dude.....The only reason im still using it is because I bought a gallon of it (like a dumbass) I should have learned my lesson last grow but I guess i'm just thickheaded. That company is a SCAM..... Don't fall for their marketing gimics, your plant food shouldn't need 20 additives in order to work right. Seriously if you look at their nutrient calculator there is 13 additives you need in order to get complete nutrition, not including the sensi bloom you have to buy.. HEY ADVANCED NUTRIENTS, THANKS FOR NUTTIN......

The reason everything has it's own bottle is because many of these elements are highly reactive with each other at these high concentrations. You can't just toss all of it into one bottle and not expect precipitates.

I'm not going to speak about their advertising methods, but my grow using Sensi Bloom went just fine. My OG #18 from DNA genetics swoll up big time on it.

I really do doubt they are a scam. It costs money to advertise and if everyone was like you, buying two bottles and never returning, the company would have spent itself into an inescapable hole a long time ago. There's a reason they have money for advertising. It's a good returning customer base.

Max, what other nutrients have you used for comparison? Have you had a successful grow on any nutrient system?

And that's right, that sensi bloom is clearly the reason why you're running your ppms entirely too low. It's never the gardeners fault. Nope. These bottle's should do all the work for you costing nearly $35... lol, bitching about maybe $2.50 per plant in nutrients... Take some responsibility for yourselves fellas. It's not the bottles fault you haven't figured it out yet.