Am I Norml
Active Member
use florescence right off the bat soon as you put the already germ'd seed in the medium and don't fertilize them at all till they at least have their first set of major leaves and then only VERY lightly
NooB Advice
- Thread starter riddleme
- Start date
Am I Norml
Active Member
here ya go man i was taking some clones today and i decided to give you a couple pix as a example since you have been having trouble with it
i use a entirely different method then just about everyone else i have ever encountered so here goes nothing
i cal it the ghettoized cardboard box method
first you get Pyrex dish and a smallish cardboard box just big enough to fit the dish down in then you want to take some fairly healthy clones one at a time they should have good top growth tips and a 3 to 4 mm stalk
and you want to keep them realistically uniform in height also and just as soon as you cut them get the cut tip IMEDIATELY into a small cup/shotglass of the same water/nutrients that you have been feeding the plant up till now then into your gel/rooting hormone ASAP
and when you are done you should have a bunch of clones that look literally like the name implys
then once your done put them all in the Pyrex dish then down in the box then after that take your spray bottle and soak the tops of the plants thoroughly with the same water/nutrient fluid you have been watering the plant/plants with you took the clones from..
BUT here is where it gets ghettofied .. take your spray bottle and also wet down the inside of the cardboard box also then take your cfl (i use a 2 ft shop light with a single tube cfl) and place it right on top of the box across it then i toss a old t-shirt over the whole mess thus trapping in the humidity but also allowing for breath-ability and easy access and i get 100% clone stability EVERY time
i like to try other peoples cloning styles but i have yet to find one that works for me as good as this one does...
it looks like complete SHIT .. but ill tell you its THE best way i have found to clone quickly and easily and to get the best results
when high tech is too confusing low tech ROX
InfiniteThought
Member
thanks Norml, one question though, what are you rooting the clones into. You may have said and I missed but after you stick the clones into the shot glass of water + weak nuts and then the rooting hormone, what are you putting them into?
Am I Norml
Active Member
i put them in hydrated jiffy plugs (they are dehydrated peat plugs you just soak them in water to make them expand) sorry thought from the pic you would know didn't realize that they didn't have those silly little fuckers bout everywhere ... i forget sometimes the internet isn't the united states exclusively lol .. *puts down the bong and slowly steps away from it*
InfiniteThought
Member
I actually have a big box of those that someone gave me, I have just never seen them expanded before. Sweet, I already got the right stuff!
Am I Norml
Active Member
yea i don't even use any special rooting hormone its just some cheap shit i got at walmart for like 3 bucks lol .. i think the most important part of cloning is using the same nutrients to water the clones as the original plant was getting so there is zero stress.
DTR
Active Member
was looking for the picture cd for my 14 lb bass to post in another thread and found this its crazy this is at jawbone in the mojave desert in ca you can definatly sprout in sand it was gone the next day tho something musta ate it guessing some random got baked and tossed a seed
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riddleme
Well-Known Member
lot's of growers use the switching ballast and switch bulbs for the veg & flower times
best is to have both spectrums (blue 6500K and red 2700K)
I favor CMH (only full spectrum bulb out there) but you have already bought your HPS
EdGreyfox
Well-Known Member
Both my 400w and my 600w can run either MH or HPS bulbs. I use the MH for vegging and the HPS for flowering, and it works well for me. The MH seems to promote more branching and bush like growth and less upwards growth, while the HPS has better penetration and really makes the plants fill in and start going upwards. I veg with the 400w and flower with the 600w currently, and the only issue I have with the 400w is that its hard to do more then 6 plants per light unless you have them stuffed in on top of each other. The 600w lets you spread larger plants out a little better and gives them more airflow during flowering when they really need it.
riddleme - you know my setup...I have the opportunity to change my light setup and was considering changing to a switchable 400 watt system so that I can use my tent (about 148 cu. ft.) thru all stages (mh/hps)...i am limited to the tent but not to the light. the lights i would receive are: 400W Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH (38,000 Initial Lumens) and 400W EYE Hortilux HP (55,000 Initial Lumens)
thoughts?
thoughts?
riddleme
Well-Known Member
totally your call and does get the job done, not what I would buy but that is me, bottom line is you'll be better off doing that then just using the HPS and you'll be glad you did!
I say go for it
EdGreyfox
Well-Known Member
Had a bit of a setback in my grow today, so i guess it's a good thing I wasn't able to start flowering on schedule. Two days ago my plants didn't have a spot on them, yesterday they had a couple small flecks that looked like the early signs of minor nute burn. Today the problem became clear- I've got spider mites. 
I've decided to leave the lights on 18/6 for a few more days while I deal with the little buggers, since I may need to use azitrol if the neem oil doesn't work (and you want to avoid using azitrol during flowering). Between the six plants I went through 2 qts of the diluted neem mixture tonight. I literally turned every leaf on every plant and sprayed them down while cursing bugs in general and mites in particular. My girls reacted to the manhandling by stinking up my house and are currently sulking a bit. The only good news is that I think I caught it before they managed to multiply too much. If I'm lucky the neem oil will do the trick and I won't have to resort to the azitrol.
Guess I broke a few cardinal rules today Riddle, because I changed a ton of factors at the same time. Besides the neeming they got to spend their first full day under the 600w, and now they've been moved from their closet and out into the room where they are getting much more airflow. The light is bigger, its a few inches closer, its a different spectrum, the temp has changed, humidity is down 10%..... It's going to take me a couple weeks just to get everything back to normal at this rate....
On a positive note, I just started a new grow from clones under the 400w in a different room- 3 dj short unreal blueberry.
I've decided to leave the lights on 18/6 for a few more days while I deal with the little buggers, since I may need to use azitrol if the neem oil doesn't work (and you want to avoid using azitrol during flowering). Between the six plants I went through 2 qts of the diluted neem mixture tonight. I literally turned every leaf on every plant and sprayed them down while cursing bugs in general and mites in particular. My girls reacted to the manhandling by stinking up my house and are currently sulking a bit. The only good news is that I think I caught it before they managed to multiply too much. If I'm lucky the neem oil will do the trick and I won't have to resort to the azitrol.
Guess I broke a few cardinal rules today Riddle, because I changed a ton of factors at the same time. Besides the neeming they got to spend their first full day under the 600w, and now they've been moved from their closet and out into the room where they are getting much more airflow. The light is bigger, its a few inches closer, its a different spectrum, the temp has changed, humidity is down 10%..... It's going to take me a couple weeks just to get everything back to normal at this rate....
On a positive note, I just started a new grow from clones under the 400w in a different room- 3 dj short unreal blueberry.
EdGreyfox
Well-Known Member
NB,
You can use either a MH or and HPS for all stages of growth and it will work. The idea behind switching bulbs is to optimize the frequency of light the plant is receiving based upon which life stage you have it in. During the vegging cycle the plant needs more of the blue range, while during flowering it needs more of the red. Both bulbs put out both spectrums, but the MH has more of the blues (which are better for vegging) while the HPS has more of the reds (which are better for flowering). That's simplifying things, but without getting into frequency ranges thats the easy answer.
You can use either a MH or and HPS for all stages of growth and it will work. The idea behind switching bulbs is to optimize the frequency of light the plant is receiving based upon which life stage you have it in. During the vegging cycle the plant needs more of the blue range, while during flowering it needs more of the red. Both bulbs put out both spectrums, but the MH has more of the blues (which are better for vegging) while the HPS has more of the reds (which are better for flowering). That's simplifying things, but without getting into frequency ranges thats the easy answer.
Showing my ignorance here but...I guess I am still pretty confused with this post...am I to understand that you are using only a CMH trhu all stages??
riddleme
Well-Known Member
Not yet, it will be for my next grow and yes CMH is a bulb you can use thru all stages as it has full spectrum very close to the sun, once you get to it in the thread there is a lot of info about it
but as I said if you go with switchable it will be ok
did not mean to confuse you
EdGreyfox
Well-Known Member
Lights are always a confusing subject, because they are so controversial. The perfect light for your grow depends on so many different factors that it's always easy to find a differing opinion, and the fact that you not only have different intensity lights but lights usings totally different technologies confuses the issue even further. I haven't had the chance to play with CFL's or T5 (or better) lights, but plenty of growers on these boards swear by them. With HID's everyone has their own particular wattage they prefer, and the arguments over which bulb is best never seem to end . About the only consensus on any light I've seen is that LED's still need some work before they can replace HID's or T5's as a primary light (and even there you will find dissenting opinions).
greencrack1985
Member
hey norm, one more question. i just planted my germinated seeds and put the light on them. should the light be on 24/0 ? i just read somewhere else that you dont need to put light on till they spout? any input?use florescence right off the bat soon as you put the already germ'd seed in the medium and don't fertilize them at all till they at least have their first set of major leaves and then only VERY lightly
Am I Norml
Active Member
well everyone germ's seeds differently just like there is a ton of different ways to clone and even grow your plants so i can only give you my take on how to do it easily .. me personally i don't believe in 24/0 light for plants AT ALL a plant has to have its resting phase in order to build its self it does it at a slow rate on 24/0 but they grow better and more efficiently with a dark time phase in there so 18/6 is plenty or my personal favorite 16/8 which seems to work good for my super skunk's... and it always seems that my seedlings come up better with the light on them making them more anxious to shed their hulls and already getting energy as soon as the leaves hit the light .. dont get me wrong you can do it either way .. my personal opinion is put a light on them and then the next batch don't ... you will see the difference
*Don't Take My Word for It ... Try It And See ...
*
greencrack1985
Member
thanks alot, i have a degree in horticulture, but i concentrated in turfgrass so i never paid attention to the other stuff lol. so i have a basic knowledge about outdoor growing. so i know how look at a plant and see signs of stress, so i will do i trial and error on this. thanks so much for the info