Node are so close is that normal?

J

jpizzle4shizzle

Well-Known Member
Hps all day everyday, when these companies say 600 watt it means equivalent with most LEDs. I love LEDs but if you want weight hps is the way to go

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Rollitup mobile app
 
RolllingStone

RolllingStone

Well-Known Member
jpizzle4shizzle said:
Hps all day everyday, when these companies say 600 watt it means equivalent with most LEDs. I love LEDs but if you want weight hps is the way to go

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Rollitup mobile app
Click to expand...
How far it needs to be from the canopy during Veg an then during flower
 
J

jpizzle4shizzle

Well-Known Member
LEDs are tricky, cobs can be closer than those purple ones. I always stayed about 16 inches above the canopy with the purple ones.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Rollitup mobile app
 
Olive Drab Green

Olive Drab Green

Well-Known Member
Molasses is fine. I dunno, I have no experience with either. Check the reviews. However, MarsHydro is pretty cheap and effective. Some people will fuck with you because they are made in China and past models had a moderate fail rate, but I think they stabilized it. They have pretty good reviews.
 
Olive Drab Green

Olive Drab Green

Well-Known Member
RolllingStone said:
Imma switch to hps would 1 light cover my whole tent or i would have to buy 2? 60×60×80 tent
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Don't go HPS in a tent like that. I really think that will set you up for heat issues and it'll fuck up your electric bill. Plus, you have to figure out your wiring situation with it, i.e. dedicated circuit, ballast, etc. Check out the MarsHydro 600w. $129. 300s are $69-99
 
RolllingStone

RolllingStone

Well-Known Member
Olive Drab Green said:
Don't go HPS in a tent like that. I really think that will set you up for heat issues and it'll fuck up your electric bill. Plus, you have to figure out your wiring situation with it, i.e. dedicated circuit, ballast, etc. Check out the MarsHydro 600w. $129. 300s are $69-99
Click to expand...
I got the marshydro 2 300's for 140$ from what doc said i need more light cause my plant is small for a 4 - 5 week veg plant
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Olive Drab Green said:
I said that the cupping COULD be mild mag def, but I didn't say it was. And I looked it up last night. Said 800mg if potassium. I also missed the part about hydro? I assumed he was in coco and just using liquid nutes. And you do use LESS N (not entirely no N) for flower.
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Coco IS considered a hydro run!

You should not decrease N till NO sooner then week 3 and that's a very minor drop. There are several nutrient makers that INCREASE the base amount of N by over half a percent and then "boost" the P&K at week 4!
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Olive Drab Green said:
I respect you, Doc, but the only thing you seem to have been wrong about is the molasses. Everywhere I'm looking, the consensus is 1-0-5, and 5's decent. Other than that, though, you called it.

OP: He's definitely right about not using molasses if you're hydro. Clogging tubes, stringy mold errwurr, etc. Cupping is a symptom of heat stress or mag def, but not necessarily in your case; I only brought that up for you to monitor.
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RolllingStone said:
Im growing in canna coco medium not 100% hydro. It was either molasses or GH flora nectar or boost but boost price is out of my range
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Outside of REAL soil you should NEVER use molasses..... NOT in Coco or any soilless method period!

Molasses feeds the living things in the soil! NOT THE PLANT! There are FAR more effective ways to get K then to use molasses and risk possible problems with it! I would simply never choose to use molasses in ANY synthetic soil grow!
Molasses is best for brewing Teas and the rest is simply hippie myth - just like "flushing"....Any benefit of molasses use is so small it's not worth using it for the price it costs!
Hell dudes, you can use Silica and get 2 benefits in one! K and Si!

Use a Kelp extract and be happier. Just like your plants will be!
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
RolllingStone said:
What would produce more yield a 600w glaxayhydro LED or 600W Apollo hps?
Click to expand...
The Apollo HPS! Hell I would go 1k in that 5x5 - BlockBuster 6 air cooled hood. All you would need is to cool the room the tent's in and blow the hood exhaust out the room.....

Prebuilt LEDs are fine for vegging.....Then they fall off hard for Bloom! Unless you build your own Cobb LED system or go with a set 3 fixtures of 6 or 8 bulb T-5's Like some do...

Take the TIME to read this thread! You'll learn a lot! Cobb's, CDM, Dual Arc bulb's, GREAT T-5 set up's - just read this thread...

https://www.rollitup.org/t/light.853779/
 
Olive Drab Green

Olive Drab Green

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
Coco IS considered a hydro run!

You should not decrease N till NO sooner then week 3 and that's a very minor drop. There are several nutrient makers that INCREASE the base amount of N by over half a percent and then "boost" the P&K at week 4!
Click to expand...
DTW hydro is slightly different than pure hydro, I thought? I was told my coco/peat/yucca isn't considered DTW byt more of an organic mix setup.
 
Olive Drab Green

Olive Drab Green

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
Outside of REAL soil you should NEVER use molasses..... NOT in Coco or any soilless method period!

Molasses feeds the living things in the soil! NOT THE PLANT! There are FAR more effective ways to get K then to use molasses and risk possible problems with it! I would simply never choose to use molasses in ANY synthetic soil grow!
Molasses is best for brewing Teas and the rest is simply hippie myth - just like "flushing"....Any benefit of molasses use is so small it's not worth using it for the price it costs!
Hell dudes, you can use Silica and get 2 benefits in one! K and Si!

Use a Kelp extract and be happier. Just like your plants will be!
Click to expand...
I use molasses for the carbs and potassium so that my myco and Rhizobacillus can eat it and shit out what my plant needs. My set-up is made for this, in particular (the nutes are all solid.) I personally will continue to use molasses as it has been effective. I dilute with water. I will at least look into Kelp.
 
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Olive Drab Green

Olive Drab Green

Well-Known Member
You are also completely wrong about bloom, though. I yielded just under a QP with my 500w and 240w. Will it yoekd as much as HPS? No. But you won't be paying for cooling nor full price on your wattage with LEDs. Start with your LEDs.
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Olive Drab Green said:
DTW hydro is slightly different than pure hydro, I thought? I was told my coco/peat/yucca isn't considered DTW byt more of an organic mix setup.
Click to expand...
I go by the simple personal rule that if you have to pH at hydro levels, your running hydro.....

Olive Drab Green said:
I use molasses for the carbs and potassium so that my myco and Rhizobacillus can eat it and shit out what my plant needs. My set-up is made for this, in particular (the nutes are all solid.) I personally will continue to use molasses as it has been effective. I dilute with water. I will at least look into Kelp.
Click to expand...
Your not running a "soil" able to maintain living bacterial/fungal growth with out feeding them.....what your doing is sort of working for you.....It can be done better other ways. Building an actual organic soil being the most effective way. (and you won't need ANY molasses to "feed" it!)

So what DO you use for nutrient and how do you use it? I'm interested to try and wrap my head around Coco/peat/yucca and using organic solids as you claim.....I think you maybe shooting yourself in the foot in some ways......Hmmm, unless you use a simple bio tea very regularly........maybe.

Anyway, How about you line that out for me, ok?

Media mix
Nutrients used
Any supplements and what you pH too and how....
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Olive Drab Green said:
You are also completely wrong about bloom, though. I yielded just under a QP with my 500w and 240w. Will it yoekd as much as HPS? No. But you won't be paying for cooling nor full price on your wattage with LEDs. Start with your LEDs.
Click to expand...
Your opinion! We all have those and you can keep yours.....
Even the hard core LED guys don't like them for Bloom unless they're running COBB's..

You should read this too!

https://www.rollitup.org/t/light.853779/
 
Olive Drab Green

Olive Drab Green

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
I go by the simple personal rule that if you have to pH at hydro levels, your running hydro.....



Your not running a "soil" able to maintain living bacterial/fungal growth with out feeding them.....what your doing is sort of working for you.....It can be done better other ways. Building an actual organic soil being the most effective way. (and you won't need ANY molasses to "feed" it!)

So what DO you use for nutrient and how do you use it? I'm interested to try and wrap my head around Coco/peat/yucca and using organic solids as you claim.....I think you maybe shooting yourself in the foot in some ways......Hmmm, unless you use a simple bio tea very regularly........maybe.

Anyway, How about you line that out for me, ok?

Media mix
Nutrients used
Any supplements and what you pH too and how....
Click to expand...
This is the system that NC built up, not me. Their food that goes with their potting mix is made with microbes mixed in to the meat, bone, blood, feather, wheat, manure, etc. that make up the pellets. Like, this is their design, not mine, and it retains like soil does.

Nature's Care Bone meal and Blood meal, NC potting mix, NC Veg/Fruit/Flower food, FF Bat Guano with myco and humic acid, unsulphured blackstrap molasses, Espoma dolo, coconut water on occasion, and that's pretty much it. All of my NC stuff is OMRI.
 
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