Nirvana Bubblelicious Waterfarm Scrog in a Secret Jardin Tent 600 Watts

Young Lungz

Member
+ rep. This is a great thread and you explain everything in so much detail its almost impossible to not understand. And it also makes me very jealous
 

Serapis

Well-Known Member
+ rep. This is a great thread and you explain everything in so much detail its almost impossible to not understand. And it also makes me very jealous
It certainly isn't my intent to make anyone jealous. :) Thanks for the kind words. I hope you stick around til the end. I'm not going to chop, post a wet weight and end the thread. I intend to write about drying and curing this harvest as well. There is a fine line between drying and curing that many miss. Off to eBay to buy some hygrometers....
 

Serapis

Well-Known Member
I just purchased several half gallon jars, about a dozen, and hygrometers for each jar. I intend to store after I cure, and a hygrometer in the jar is crucial just as it is in a cigar humidor. You don't want your smoke drying out too much. The hygrometers will also let me know when to burp or air out the jars. We are about 5-6 weeks from a harvest and I can't wait. This will be my first "controlled" cure. Before I always guessed and it has ended up in mold, too dry or dank.... Mostly though, too dry. Only had mold once and it was actually a mildew, so I had to water cure that harvest. I watched 10 ounces get compressed to 6 after that process, but the weed was smokeable. Actually, it was more than smokeable. It made the weed look awesome, with dark cinnamon colored hairs and dark greenish-red leaf material. I'll share a pic of what water cured looks like compared with the exact same strain that was jar cured.

The water cured bud is on the left. Notice how much darker it is. If you look carefully, you'll see the water cured bud STILL has shiny trichs on it. The don't wash away. The trick is to use luke warm water and do not agitate buds and water. I gently stirred, never shook my jars. Instead of air, I used water and allowed the bud to water cure for about 7 days. CAUTION this method will remove a lot of the dank smell from your bud. While this makes it ideal for shipping via UPS or FED EX, those that love the aroma of their smoke won't like this method.

The bud on the right is the exact same strain, only air cured and not as old. The bud was cut on Xmas eve and has been in a jar for only about 8-9 days now. The smell is coming back and the buzz is out of this world. It still has a bit of harshness to it, but the taste is sweet. It will truly be dank smoke in another 4-6 weeks.

Which bud would you rather have? The buzz is nearly equal. The water cured smoke is smooth and not harsh at all. Whic buds look more appealing?
 

jimbizzzale67123

Well-Known Member
I have to say the water cured bud but thats only because IT IS BIGGER, lol DO YOU HAVE TWO THAT ARE MORE OF THE SAME SHAPE AND SIZE AND YOU WILL GET A HONEST ANSWER OUT OF ME, UNTIL THEN i WANT BIG BUDS.


Sorry for caps hit it on accident to lazy to fix.
 

newbiebob

Well-Known Member
i have wanted to try water curing. Can you go into a little more detail about the process you used? when you stired when you changed water what conditions you stored the jar in what type of jar etc?
sorry for the punctuation im a little high

+ rep great thread.
very informative
 

Serapis

Well-Known Member
Mason jars work OK, or just one gallon pitchers. I left the top off first 2 days, so if any gasses wanted to evaporate. First, fill with bud, then fill with luke warm water. At first, a lot of the bud will try to float. Just weigh it down with something, a canned good or something. Eventually it will stop floating. I change water every day for first 3 days, then every other, after that, for about 7-10 days. Never use hot or cold water, as you'll damage trichs. The buds will dy super fast when removed from the water, two days tops. (ironic isn't it?).

You'll end up with denser nugs that pack a punch, cool and smooth, soothing smoke with rich aroma and bouquet. The actual bud will lose much of it's stank, but not it's flavor. Great way to ship weed too.
 

Serapis

Well-Known Member
Attitude seeds is now sold out:

I ordered these seeds what seems like a month ago, but alas, was only ordered on 12/12/2010 and they just arrived. The shirt that I selected with my "guaranteed delivery" option was the wrong size, but Rachel says she'll make it right, on my 'next order'..... go figure... pretty presumptuous of her I'd say, lol.

I just wanted to show the breeders pack and brag a bit, as Attitude is now sold out of these. Word travels quick when you win a cannabis cup title. My freebies were, get this, Reserva Privada Kandy Kush femmed, and a Kannabia Afrodite! Two very nice seeds. I'm just disappointed that my "Flying High" tee shirt was the wrong size, given it's cost and all.

UPDATE:

About 40% of the screen is full, most all of that is Babylicious, as her sister is just now coming up through the screen. The PH was up to 6.1, indicating that my ladies desire more food. The PPM has dropped to 850 as well, down from 1150.

I have taken the PPM up to 1300 and am keeping a close eye on the plants. If they begin to wilt or show signs of damage, I'll be right on it. I truly believe the plants are begging for the high rate of food however. Babylicious has pre-sexed for me and has some stigma showing up here and there. Her sister looks close, however she is physically 14 days behind Babylicious, coming from a second seed germination attempt. While I will flip them simultaneously, the smaller plant will be allowed to flower about 2 weeks longer. This solves my drying issue, and frees up one Waterfarm for cleaning up and getting ready to host a BF Tangerine tree.

My goal is to have a rotating harvest. I'd like to keep up a harvest every 4-6 weeks if possible. This would allow me to have a more manageable sized harvest each time. I have (12) 1/2 gallon (2 quart) mason jars and hygrometers on the way. Good weed requires proper curing and storage.

45 minutes after upping nutrients, plants look fantastic, still. Added SuperThrive and H2O2 and Drip Clean as well as 500+ ppm of Flora Nova Bloom. Total ppm near 1400 right now. I expect the plants to continue drinking about a gallon of water per day now. Removing the sun leaves and other lower foliage seems to have increased the plant's vigor and branching, and it's need for water and nutrients.

After cleaning up the foliage below the screen and removing the huge sun leaves that were now getting no light, the plant's need for food went up. That makes sense, because those huge leaves store nutrients that the plant can tap into. Unfortunately, they also require a fair amount of water and energy to maintain. That is energy and water that could be used to generate and support new cell growth, rather than maintain the old.

Some will argue this point to death and tell you that you are harming the plant or it's yield if you prune or remove leaves. Let me say, just one time, in response to that theory, "HOGWASH"! Besides watering, pruning is the second most effective way that we can encourage growth in our plants. Let me explain....

Plant's have a hormone that controls side branching and bush like growth, called auxins. When you prune a tip off of a branch or stem, the plant releases auxins to the nodes below the cut and encourages them to grow branches. If you remove several tops on one plant, you'll end up with several colas and a bushy tree.

If you prune a branch back to the crotch of the main stem it grows off of, this is called a "thinning" prune, and it is done to allow light into the center of the plant. Generally, most of our cuts should be thinning cuts, to remove unneeded growth that will only take away from the production of bud, our actual goal of growing.

Auxins also cause plant growth to grow vertically. The auxins collect in the bottom of a stem and cause the top to turn up from them, towards the sky. It is this fact that aids us in scrog growing. When we pull growth that has emerged through the screen back down underneath it and gently encourage it to grow out, further from the plant's base, the plant release auxins, which will slow down the generation of roots and put the plant's energy into branching and vegging. It is important to choose a height above the plant that allows the roots to establish before you begin to train growth horizontally. Failure to allow enough room will decrease yield.

I'm not afraid to use my Fiskars during vegetation, or up to about 2 weeks into flowering. Once I'm that far into the grow, all necessary pruning and shaping has taken place. At this point, all of the plant's resources are being used for reproduction. She is producing buds... The only thing growing on the plant should be roots, stalks, stems, buds and supporting sugar leaves. I also leave on the top one or two sets of fan leaves. The rest of the stem will be clean.

I've cleaned up the lower portion of my plants twice now and I now have a plastic grocery bag stuffed full of leaves. I'm not removing everything at once. I'm starting with the huge sun leaves, then the large fan leaves. I'm not removing suckers.cuttings yet, as I may take clones. I haven't decided yet. I really want to do BF Tangerine sativa. I have a kandy kush to think about too...
 

Serapis

Well-Known Member
Near tragedy....


I stayed home from my part time job last night sick, with a back ache that was killing me. My roommate brought me one of those Homedic massagers with heat for computer chairs. As I was sitting here in disbelief of how good this thing felt, I looked up and saw that my remote read that the tent was 93 degrees! I got up in pain, but determined to find out what was going on. The vortex was working ok, turns out the inline was hot and barely moving air. The lamp felt hot too. Being a believer in having spare parts lying around (I have replacement bulbs here, just in case), I attached a second inline fan to the end of the duct and got it going. The temp dropped 14 degrees in less than an hour.

I swear by my ACU Rite remote hygrometer/thermometer. Had I not looked at it when I did, my plants would have baked in that tent. Considering what we do and what it's worth, we should have spares around to cover just about any emergency related to growing. Do you have spare parts around? What about ligyht bulbs and fans? Two of the basics. I encourage everyone to have spare parts available when they can. You never know when you are going to need it.
 

Serapis

Well-Known Member
While tending to the plants tonight and replenishing water and nutrients, I noticed that many sites on Babylicious are showing pre-flowers. Pairs of hairs are sticking out all over the place.... I'm getting close to flipping the lights for flowering. I want the screen about 70-80% full when I do. I've ordered a 3rd WaterFarm. I am going to start cycling them into the tent for flowering in stages, so I can harvest a 2' x 4' screen every 4-6 weeks. That is my goal, anyways.
 
Looking very very Good!!! Sub'd. Im on my first grow Nirvana Bubblelicious but the "auto" version. Autos r great 4 my first grow but now im confident I can grow regular strans nxt. Will def keep up with your grow im tuned in.

Now Roll Up:weed:
 

Kaptain Kron

Well-Known Member
i agree with you about the pruning plants the plant in my sig got a weekly 80% trim of all large fan leaves and it was a rootbound mofo when i got it and it turned into that from a scrawny lil pos. Nothin but mg and water in that one and it came out alright. I hate you and your barneys farm TD you guys all had money when it was there now its gone and i got money I HATE YOU ALL..... Im sure they will come out lovely nice freebies you got too. Spare parts are always important to have especially when your pushin shit hard. I look at it like this we are all pushing our setups like they are race cars. Trying to max them out as much as we can. When you do that shit breaks. You cant run a 110 percent all the time without breaking something. Good shit having remote temp sensors smartest thing you can ever do. My friends talk all kinds of shit to me cause im lookin at my plants every thirty minutes but you wanna know why? because i know how i built my rig and its not ideal by any means. I dont even have a thermometer lol so i have to be on it even though im only using cfl's in the desk im talking about. But hey if i had remote shit like that i'd just have an alarm set to go off if it went over 85 or somthing lol clean serapis clean.

Glad you saved em.
 

Serapis

Well-Known Member
The ladies are lushes!:

In a 24 hour period, my two plants each consumed a gallon of water. The PPM was still at 1150, so that is my plant's lucky number at the moment. It was odd, both waterfarms were within 5 ppm of each other and both had a 5.6 PH. Either I'm a master gardener, or more likely, this method is fool proof.

Those of you that think you can't do hydro, get off the can man. You can DO THIS! I'm simply maintaining the water level and replenishing a single nutrient. I also get to play with my plants while scrogging.

Take a look at the plant on the right, in the pictures. That is Babylicious. She is 2 weeks older than the plant on the left. She also has over 30 new growth tips that will soon become colas. It may actually have more than that, as it still has to go throw the flowering stretch. I will be flipping the switch over to flowering on the 18th.

I've included a couple of photos of underneath the screen. I wanted to show that even though I promote pruning, and even though I have taken nearly two grocery bags worth of fan leaf off of these two, look how much crap is still blocking air exchange below the canopy. I have my Fiskars with me, each time I sit and draw sample water for testing. I spend about 5-10 minutes pruning away waste and removing anything that won't be at the screen top by the 18th.

By the time I toss the lights over to 12/12, I want the bottom to have nothing but the waterfarms and stalks and branches. No leaves will exist under my canopy, at least not if I can reach them.

The way I see it is this, if the leaf can't get light, it isn't producing energy, yet if it is green and alive, parts that are producing are keeping it alive, rather than using those cells for new growth, the plant is sustaining the old growth, should it ever need the stored nutrients in the leaf. Since I am feeding the plant, I won't let it go without. It will never need those storage leaves down below, that aren't even receiving light. So off with their heads.

I know this flies in the face of reason for some people, but think about it. The leaf is not receiving light and producing energy. The plant is wasting energy to keep the leaves alive as storage collectors that it can later feed off of. Rather than waste that energy to sustain old growth, I remove the leaves and let the plant focus on new growth. Make sense?
 

HowzerMD

Well-Known Member
Everything looks great and you're right on the money with your pruning. Anything that's below your screen or in the shade is completely lopped off. I can see those suckers drinkin that much, too. With that much greenery to support it's no wonder :-P. All nice and lush :-D
 
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