NFTG. Nectar For The Gods

7L!fTeD24

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
bubba73 said:
there away to do it … Danny is a north east rep or use to be and years ago you can take the # and subtract by so much and you get a ball park figure…… like when I do slurries on amended soil , my ph is far more important..ppm can be around 2000 but as long as the ph is in range your golden ….
pits like when people use different soil either be FF , organic roots or what not you slurry it before using it with nectar ..and there’s a way of prepping for use with nectar …
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Right as long as the pH is in line and the plants look fine I don't mind. And that just rhymed.
 
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bubba73

Well-Known Member
RetiredToker76 said:
Yes, I have and have used an Apogee PAR meter. I worked for one of the state medical grows in IPM for the last year until my 10 year old private media business started picking back up after the plague restrictions relaxed. Yes, I tuned my LEDs with the Apogee PAR meter from work, with my bosses blessings. Then I got my own after comparing it to the phone app. Yes, at home I run 7 plants in a closet, because that's the space I have and I've done it for almost 14 years.

From early early 2021 to the end of May 2022 I was overseeing 10,000 plant hydroponic hoop houses in veg, 5,000 plant houses in flower as an IPM technician. Spent just over a year lugging 5 gallon spray backpacks of Azaguard battling outdoor grow conditions for distillation flowers and emptying 100 gallon spray tanks of sulfur. Is my resume suitable for you?

Don't like my advice, fine point out where I'm wrong, if I am in fact wrong I'll admit it. I pointed him towards online calculators and RIU's grow room design thread for proper advice on grow room ventilation. Want to to play ad-hominem attack, fine I'll whip it out on the table.
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what ever……. Then keep it nectar then …. Easy enough.. but I’ll play along …and we are not talking about thousands square feet talking about small grows … so your in the wrong area ….
 
7L!fTeD24

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
I'm going to get some #4 and mix it up with some biochar and one shot, water with some zues and slf and let it cook in my five gallon pots for a week or 2 before my plants are ready to go in them.
 
7L!fTeD24

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
I got the AC Infinity pots with the holes already in them for LST. I planted five seeds I'm hoping to get at least three females so I can run CB EON on 1 plant. I think I may have to buy a different scale, Eons measured out in grams right?
 
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Dothraki

Well-Known Member
RetiredToker76 said:
Question 1: Are teas and flushes necessary? I would say sorta yes. If you inoculate your soil with a decent collection of biological life, either through an instant tea or one you brew yourself, if you keep your soil moist enough they'll survive and keep eating and osmossising out things the plants love. Flushes serve the purpose of using up any nutrients left in your soil and preventing waste buildup in the root system. That's why they recommend the Feed Feed Tea, Feed Feed Flush. Now in reality, I water every other day, making it about 3 times a week. By the time I'm done with veg I've probably done upwards of 4 teas and 4 flushes. In reality it becomes more like 2 teas and 6 flushes.

Implied Question 2: How much to water. I take the Scott's (Nectar owner) advice and water them just enough to get them to when I want to water them again. So in my case I like to water every other day. So once established in late veg, I'm feeding about 1 - 1.5 qts every two days per plant in 3 gallon pots. By the time I'm in late flower, I'm usually upwards of 0.75 - 1.25 gallons per plant in 5 gallon pots. A fresh clone or seeding, 4oz or less. My pots aren't "fabric' per say, but they're like fabric, I use Rain Science bags which are more a nylon weave but they're the same principle as fabric pots, before them I used SmartPot fabric pots and didn't really have to water any more than I do now.

Yes you should be doing slurry tests. You want your soil sitting between a 6.0 - 6.8 ph, the closer to 6.5 the better but it will fluctuate; and your ppm between .7 - 1 in early veg, 1 in late veg and early flower and I've pushed as high as 1.4 in mid flower. You're using One Shot which will skew your ppm readings upwards. I would add at least .3 to your expected soil ppm to compensate for having One Shot already in. I can't really tell you what One Shot raises your PPm to but I would expect it to be about .1 - .3 higher. I always get my first slurry before even planting plants and take it before each tea or flush so I know where they're sitting before I tell them to clean their plates and if I need to feed them more. That way if I need to up my nutes, I can tell from the ppm if I'm hitting below .9, I know I need to start upping my feed. BTW most Nectar fam uses the Truncheon scale which is EC x 700. So an EC of .7 would be 490 and 1 would be 700.

A note on slurry tests, get yourself some RO water (my local grocery store sells it as drinking water) and use that for your slurry tests since your tap water is so high. That way you don't have to pH down your water and add a possible acid to your slurry test. Technically your supposed to use the water you water with, however if you're yanking your pH down already it's probably better to just us commercially available RO water. Don't use De-Ionized/Distilled water, it can mess up your probe and doesn't give a good reading for the Nectar system.

As to your high pH, as was posted earlier, bring it down to about a 7.0, let it stabilize, then add your nutes and then bring it back up with Oly Up. Remember the limestone in Oly is as much food as it is pH up, so don't use another brand of pH up. pH down, whatever, phosphoric acid is phosphoric acid, but Nectar's is much weaker than GH, either one doesn't matter just use it before you add your nutes. I use GH for my aeroponic cloning chamber and have a bottle of Hades I never use.

I would strongly recommend any line of Mycorrhiza for at least one of your teas per stage of life. I have used both Mycos and Bigfoot, don't really have a preference, fungus is fungus. Other inoculates to consider,e SLF100 (every time I water), Photosynthesis + (Every time I water), Mycorrhiza
and the Azos Baccilum family of bacteria (at least once per life stage as a tea.)

You're in far less risk of underwatering than you think, especially if you have got good living Mycorrhiza in your soil. That fungus latches onto your roots and stores water for dry times and waters the plant for you. I'm not saying this is advisable, but I once let the plants go for a full week with just one regular watering before I left in deep flower and I came home and they were just starting to droop and hadn't lost any color or leaves. Again I don't advise it, but I feel like Myco is kind of an idiot buffer that gives you a day or two on your watering schedule if something comes up.
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I’ll bookmark this for reference. Thank you so much! I’m glad I found this thread…you guys have the knowledge I’m after, so excuse me while I grab a little pickaxe and a bucket : )

7L!fTeD24 said:
So I'm getting the controller for everything to plug into and I guess AC Infinity has an app that connects to it, wondering if anybody has heard of anyone using this?
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I use the controller, but no need for the app in my conditions. But it’s cool if you want alerts pushed to your phone.
 
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Dothraki

Well-Known Member
Btw…where the heck are you guys buying RO water??? All I can find is distilled or purified. Wait…is purified RO?
 
RetiredToker76

RetiredToker76

Well-Known Member
Dothraki said:
Btw…where the heck are you guys buying RO water??? All I can find is distilled or purified. Wait…is purified RO?
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My regional grocery store Publix, has Drinking, "Pure Stream" and Purified store brands.

Reading the labels,

Drinking was Ozone + RO Filtered Water
Pure Stream Was Ozone + RO Filtered and fortified with minerals
Purified was De-Ionized distilled, mostly sold for humidifiers for baby rooms.

When I test the Publix drinking water it comes out at a pH of 7.1 or 7.2 with a ppm of 100 - 130. I only use it for my aeroponic cloner, foliar sprays, and slurry tests.

The other options is aquarium stores. They usually require you have your own jug, or will sell you one, and in all honesty I trust their RO filter changes over that of the regional grocery retailer. Aquarium fish are very picky about the quality of their water, so high end fish stores probably have the best RO water, but they'll charge the most per gallon too.
 
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Dothraki

Well-Known Member
RetiredToker76 said:
My regional grocery store Publix, has Drinking, "Pure Stream" and Purified store brands.

Reading the labels,

Drinking was Ozone + RO Filtered Water
Pure Stream Was Ozone + RO Filtered and fortified with minerals
Purified was De-Ionized distilled, mostly sold for humidifiers for baby rooms.

When I test the Publix drinking water it comes out at a pH of 7.1 or 7.2 with a ppm of 100 - 130. I only use it for my aeroponic cloner, foliar sprays, and slurry tests.

The other options is aquarium stores. They usually require you have your own jug, or will sell you one, and in all honesty I trust their RO filter changes over that of the regional grocery retailer. Aquarium fish are very picky about the quality of their water, so high end fish stores probably have the best RO water, but they'll charge the most per gallon too.
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Oh yeah, wonder if my local fish store sells it. I’ll have to check. But I have heard multiple times that a slurry (at least with NFTG) should be done with the same water you feed the plants with. But I don’t understand how that works when you PH your water. So if I take 8.4 PH tap water, PH it down to 7, would I just end up with the PH of the soil since my water was neutral?
 
RetiredToker76

RetiredToker76

Well-Known Member
Dothraki said:
I have heard multiple times that a slurry (at least with NFTG) should be done with the same water you feed the plants with. But I don’t understand how that works when you PH your water. So if I take 8.4 PH tap water, PH it down to 7, would I just end up with the PH of the soil since my water was neutral?
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Here's how I understand it, and I'm not a chemist, so I will gladly bow to superior chemistry knowledge. pH down is just phosphoric acid. Once you add it to water it starts reacting and I've read the reaction lasts up to 24 hours. You are correct, and Scott has said on the show multiple times, that you should, if possible, do your slurry with your feed water. Then again back to the show I posted earlier, he talks about a customer of his pHing his water down from 8.4 to 7. Then letting the slurry sit for 24 hours and getting massively high ppm readings because the phosphoric acid reacted with all the nutrients in the soil and released them over the 24 hours. His answer in the show leaned mostly on the person leaving it sitting for 24 hours, but he didn't sound too excited about the yanking down of the pH either. So...<shrug.>

The first two years of using Nectar, I used RO only for slurries, after he mentioned using the same water you feed with to do it, I switched. I didn't see any appreciable difference in either the data or the plants. But as I said my tap vs ro was a difference of 0.3 at most. I'm not sure I could say the same if I were dropping it a whole point and a half. The bottom line is it's about finding the baseline. You could get 3 pH meters of the exact same line, calibrated on the same fluid, and get different readings from each meter in the same water. I've got a $400 Hanna and a Blue pen, the Hanna reads about 0,15 off from the BluePen.

The take-away I get is that I didn't necessarily need to use RO water for slurries because my tap water has a pH of 7.4 at most and I never use pH down before adding nutes, just dechlorinator. The first dose of nutrients at 50% strength pulls my pH down to 6.1. I don't even need Oly until late veg.

If you're yanking down all the way from 8.4 to 7.0 it might be in your best interest to prevent as much precipitation of the solids in your soil from the acidic reaction as possible and go with RO water. He said it was something they were going to address on an upcoming youtube show, so hopefully we can get a better answer soon.
 
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bubba73

Well-Known Member
It’s funny Scott being doing this water stuff for months …. Lol… do this do that , don’t do this but do this … don’t use RO water … oops use RO water …. You know there was never a problem before the pandemic hit…. Think about it and now it’s your water … it’s your water … what changed in the line …. How come everyone else can make the nutrients they use work with what ever water they use , but nectar there all kind of issues … it’s your water …lmao…. OK ! This week bob will debunk what you should use a week ago and now it’s this … now go to the grocery store and use this brand of water ..
. Go get some RO and distilled with some sparkling water that will work best….. then in 2 weeks it will be something different……. And this dumb shit is why most of us walked away …..maybe some bottled sports water will work…..
 
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bubba73

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7L!fTeD24

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
bubba73 said:
It’s funny Scott being doing this water stuff for months …. Lol… do this do that , don’t do this but do this … don’t use RO water … oops use RO water …. You know there was never a problem before the pandemic hit…. Think about it and now it’s your water … it’s your water … what changed in the line …. How come everyone else can make the nutrients they use work with what ever water they use , but nectar there all kind of issues … it’s your water …lmao…. OK ! This week bob will debunk what you should use a week ago and now it’s this … now go to the grocery store and use this brand of water ..
. Go get some RO and distilled with some sparkling water that will work best….. then in 2 weeks it will be something different……. And this dumb shit is why most of us walked away …..maybe some bottled sports water will work…..
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Yeah man I stopped watching the show and only stick to what's in the Bible and pretty much got it down by experience. I have been thinking about using something else that's easier but I love how my nectar plants turn out and I'm afraid to switch. I'm so invested in this line I don't even know what's good or not anymore maybe I'll try eon.
 
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bubba73

Well-Known Member
7L!fTeD24 said:
Yeah man I stopped watching the show and only stick to what's in the Bible and pretty much got it down by experience. I have been thinking about using something else that's easier but I love how my nectar plants turn out and I'm afraid to switch. I'm so invested in this line I don't even know what's good or not anymore maybe I'll try eon.
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not saying to switch , but you got it right .. if your getting great results , no need to change , gotta figure out and make it work for your needs with out a bunch of “ noise “ .. the info years ago are better then now .. now it’s just on repeat or “ it’s your water”. I’ll be using up what nectar I have and play with it some …dont want to talk about if the plant over grown the pot and buffer is gone .. or if you have ph water and drop the ph down to a 5 then use Olympus up and bring it up … using more of the lime in it to help to stabilize the ph …. More then one way to skin the cat per say …. Hell I still use Olympus up with cultured biologix … still use #4 soil , and one shot…. I’m not into going to a grocery store to buy more water to make the nutrients work…. Not into spending a lot of $$$$ …
 
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Dothraki

Well-Known Member
bubba73 said:
not saying to switch , but you got it right .. if your getting great results , no need to change , gotta figure out and make it work for your needs with out a bunch of “ noise “ .. the info years ago are better then now .. now it’s just on repeat or “ it’s your water”. I’ll be using up what nectar I have and play with it some …dont want to talk about if the plant over grown the pot and buffer is gone .. or if you have ph water and drop the ph down to a 5 then use Olympus up and bring it up … using more of the lime in it to help to stabilize the ph …. More then one way to skin the cat per say …. Hell I still use Olympus up with cultured biologix … still use #4 soil , and one shot…. I’m not into going to a grocery store to buy more water to make the nutrients work…. Not into spending a lot of $$$$ …
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Yeah I think the most important thing for me is just finding a nutrient line and method that allows me to use my horrid tap water. So far after the adjustments you told me to do everything is looking much better. As long as the issues are slowed down enough to make it to harvest thats all that matters to me as long as it doesn’t affect the overall bud quality in the end.

Quick question… how harmful is it taking soil samples ripping up all the roots like that? I’d do more slurries but it seems I’m grabbing quite a bit of roots even on the outside rim.
 
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bubba73

Well-Known Member
Dothraki said:
Yeah I think the most important thing for me is just finding a nutrient line and method that allows me to use my horrid tap water. So far after the adjustments you told me to do everything is looking much better. As long as the issues are slowed down enough to make it to harvest thats all that matters to me as long as it doesn’t affect the overall bud quality in the end.

Quick question… how harmful is it taking soil samples ripping up all the roots like that? I’d do more slurries but it seems I’m grabbing quite a bit of roots even on the outside rim.
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if your getting roots I would just stop .. and that’s telling me she is pretty much out grown her home….. keep Doing what your doing ….. it’s all about learning , right ? If the water is bothering you then get an RO … simple RO system … I use hydrologic https://hydrobuilder.com/brands/hydro-logic/hydro-logic-complete-ro-filters.html
 
7L!fTeD24

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
bubba73 said:
if your getting roots I would just stop .. and that’s telling me she is pretty much out grown her home….. keep Doing what your doing ….. it’s all about learning , right ? If the water is bothering you then get an RO … simple RO system … I use hydrologic https://hydrobuilder.com/brands/hydro-logic/hydro-logic-complete-ro-filters.html
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What bottles do you think aren't necessary in the Roman? I dont really use Hygeia and I don't think Mega Morpheus really matters. I like to use pegasus in mid to late flower to replace some N that gets reduced from the change and for flavor. I feel like everything else plays a part.
 
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bubba73

Well-Known Member
7L!fTeD24 said:
What bottles do you think aren't necessary in the Roman? I dont really use Hygeia and I don't think Mega Morpheus really matters. I like to use pegasus in mid to late flower to replace some N that gets reduced from the change and for flavor. I feel like everything else plays a part.
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Hygeia best used if your like gonna be away on a day that you usually water on .. keep the soil little more wet …. Why don’t you think mega Morpheus really matters ? Rest play an important part of the puzzle …. Mega Morpheus plays the part of size and flavor ….
 
7L!fTeD24

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
bubba73 said:
Hygeia best used if your like gonna be away on a day that you usually water on .. keep the soil little more wet …. Why don’t you think mega Morpheus really matters ? Rest play an important part of the puzzle …. Mega Morpheus plays the part of size and flavor ….
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Well I've never not used it. I have about a quart left though I was planning on stretching it and maybe only using it in flower. Just wondering it makes a difference while using herc, cercies, tritons, and peg. If you say it helps I'm using it Lol. I've used some type of guano on every grow so i don't know.
 
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