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SenorSanteria

SenorSanteria

Well-Known Member
Piffstar420 said:
Alright. I planted this plant like a month ago in late december. I wasnt expecting it to do anything cause of the cold but it made it through. Its about 6 inches now And the tops looks like its flowering.

I already posted a thread bout it and they said it would grow shorter cause of it.

I was wondering is it even gonna be big enough to get anything from it?

Heres a pic. Its not that good.

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Sorry bro, didnt mean to skip your post. I had a plant that was like that this summer. I already had a full room of girls, and I guess a seed germinated in one of the girl's pots. It recieved 12/12 from sprout, and looked a lot like yours. I ended up yeilding like a bowl pack off of the top. The more light you can give it, the more its going to yeild, but I wouldnt expect to get high off it more than once or twice. But the picture may only be showing the top of it, so my guess may be off. Its still fun to grow it, even if it isnt much!
 
SenorSanteria

SenorSanteria

Well-Known Member
BIGEORGE179 said:
hello senor, i'm super noob lol, i guess i don't really understand the whole lighting thing... i have 4X4 to utilize for my grow, want to grow 4 or 5 plants... I just can't figure out wich lights i should use, i'm on information overload from reading everything, was hoping you could send me in the right direction. btw i'm really only wanting to spend at most 200 for my lights... thanx in advance!
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$200 is a decent budget. $200 could get you a 1000w HPS if thats what you wanted. The best light for growing indoors is HPS lights (high pressure sodium). Most people with reasonably small grows (ie enough for you and some friends) use a 400w HPS with great success. 400w HPS's are perfect for a 4x4' area (or 3x3 depending on who you talk to). There are also flourescent lights, but with a $200 budget, I wouldnt even consider them for anything other than vegging or cloning. Your flowering lights are where you should spend the big bucks. I use two 150w HPS's for flowering, and 1 250w Metal Halide for vegging. If you plan on having one room for growing only (ie, one grow after the next, not perpetual), I would buy the biggest HPS i could afford or fit in my growspace, and buy a few blue spectrum (6500k) CFL's for vegging. My two 150's works great for 4-6 plants of a moderate size.

If you plan on using two rooms (so you can veg and flower at the same time, ie perpetual harvest), you may want to split your budget and get an HPS for the flower room and a Metal Halide for vegging. Perpetual harvests allow you to harvest more often so you can keep fewer plants. I'm just getting my perpetual setup going (timing it can be tricky), but I hope to harvest a plant every 3 weeks.

South Texas said:
Please explain to me the benefits of 1,000 watt lighting on light movers, as opposed to 400 watt stationary lighting system.???
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Im not sure why this would even be a question. Obviously the 1000 watt system is a much brighter light to begin with, so even if it were stationary it would blow the 400 away. Add in the light mover, and the 1000w system is going to destroy a stationary 400.

But for comparisons sake, Im going to assume you meant "how would a 1000w stationary setup compare to a 400w setup on movers?"

That, I honestly could not tell you the answer to. I would be strongly inclined to say that the 400w mover setup would be more effective, especially when using grow techniques such as Sea of Green or Screen of Green. Light movers allow you to get the light MUCH closer to the plant, and in turn throw a TON of light at it while its moving. By having it move, the plant doesnt get hot enough to burn, which is why the lights can get so much closer.
 
E

ellic

Active Member
Hey I have a question about sprouted seeds, will seeds that have just sprouted the soil be ok in cold temperatures such as the 30s because I'm interested in growing my new seeds outside but I'm afraid that the cold temperatures during the mornings in winter time could freeze or kill the plant.
 
B

BIGEORGE179

Active Member
SenorSanteria said:
$200 is a decent budget. $200 could get you a 1000w HPS if thats what you wanted. The best light for growing indoors is HPS lights (high pressure sodium). Most people with reasonably small grows (ie enough for you and some friends) use a 400w HPS with great success. 400w HPS's are perfect for a 4x4' area (or 3x3 depending on who you talk to). There are also flourescent lights, but with a $200 budget, I wouldnt even consider them for anything other than vegging or cloning. Your flowering lights are where you should spend the big bucks. I use two 150w HPS's for flowering, and 1 250w Metal Halide for vegging. If you plan on having one room for growing only (ie, one grow after the next, not perpetual), I would buy the biggest HPS i could afford or fit in my growspace, and buy a few blue spectrum (6500k) CFL's for vegging. My two 150's works great for 4-6 plants of a moderate size.

If you plan on using two rooms (so you can veg and flower at the same time, ie perpetual harvest), you may want to split your budget and get an HPS for the flower room and a Metal Halide for vegging. Perpetual harvests allow you to harvest more often so you can keep fewer plants. I'm just getting my perpetual setup going (timing it can be tricky), but I hope to harvest a plant every 3 weeks.



Im not sure why this would even be a question. Obviously the 1000 watt system is a much brighter light to begin with, so even if it were stationary it would blow the 400 away. Add in the light mover, and the 1000w system is going to destroy a stationary 400.

But for comparisons sake, Im going to assume you meant "how would a 1000w stationary setup compare to a 400w setup on movers?"

That, I honestly could not tell you the answer to. I would be strongly inclined to say that the 400w mover setup would be more effective, especially when using grow techniques such as Sea of Green or Screen of Green. Light movers allow you to get the light MUCH closer to the plant, and in turn throw a TON of light at it while its moving. By having it move, the plant doesnt get hot enough to burn, which is why the lights can get so much closer.
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thank you so much! ur the first person to make sense to me lol, so if i understand you right, get 5 cfl's for the veg state, then when time to flower switch over to the 1000w hps and light with them? (only gonna use one room, i figure it will yield enough to last untill next flower stage, plus the roomate would kill me if he knew lol.) thanx again for being the "go-to" guy, your incredibly kind for answering all our noob questions!
 
jpipe

jpipe

Active Member
Alright ive read about using ph stips, but i dont want to deal with that hassel I dont eally care if I would have to buy botlled water or use Brita, do they have the right ph without me adjusting it?

Also when I add nutes is it going to f up the ph level?
 
Rock1999

Rock1999

Active Member
Thanks again SenorSanteria. I got it working. I also found a ph number for the company and I called them. Even the Tech had to get help because of the 4th wire. Ended up not using the turquoise wire. Your help is awesome. I have no trouble growing out doors. I will be reading your advice you have given for indoors. A couple tricks I have for outside is,,, as the buds growing tip begines to strech, pinch the end back 1/4 inch. It will make the bug grow fatter. 1/4 oz more per 1oz. Also, I noticed in a drought, the rats would chew the bottom of the stem really bad. Every plant that was chewed,,,grew larger and fatter buds, over the plants that didnt get chewed. I use a fork or knif to scare the stem. Also,,when harvesting a plant. Take the whole plant and roots. Clean off the roots and place the plant (roots) in a boiling pot of water. Boil for a few minutes then hang to dry. This will force the resins in the roots to be pushed into the buds. Have a great New Year,,,,, Aloha,,,,
 
comptown

comptown

Active Member
SenorSanteria said:
If youre going away, make sure the medium DOES NOT DRY OUT. If they do, theyll die. I'd keep them in a humidity dome with lots of mosture, with the lights a few inches above. Seedlings dont need light until they sprout, but once they do, it is imperative. 24/0 or 18/6 will work. Personally, I think it makes no difference, but some people will argue til the end of the world for one or the other. Its completely up to you- both are proven to work just fine, and 18/6 will save you a little on electric.
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Senor,
I'm using (3) 5-gal buckets in a bubbleponics setup. two are used hold plants and one acts as a reservoir. I've been keeping a close eye on the water level and i'll make sure it is topped off before I go. So far, I haven't had to add any more water. I'll also make sure and set the CFL lights up and get both seedlings under clear plastic domes. Can you tell me when would be a good time to start adding nutes? Right now, there are just in distilled water. I was going to start them on 1/4 nutes once the first real set on leaves comes out after the cotyledons. Got the Gh Flora series. I'm still debating whether or not to use the Lucas method. Any thoughts on that would be much appreciated as well. Thanks again for all the help.
 
SayWord

SayWord

Well-Known Member
jpipe said:
Alright ive read about using ph stips, but i dont want to deal with that hassel I dont eally care if I would have to buy botlled water or use Brita, do they have the right ph without me adjusting it?

Also when I add nutes is it going to f up the ph level?
Click to expand...

my tap water is at a good ph. the only way to know is to test it. idk if bottled water is at a stable ph. but once u add nutes, usually ur ph goes down a lot. so if ur worried about ph and dont wanna get both ph up and down, just go with ph up. the only reason you should ever need ph down is if you put too much ph up. lime/lemon juice works to lower ph too.



my question: is it better to raise temps last couple weeks of flowering to help them explode with final growth?
 
DKO20

DKO20

Active Member
Brother i need some help here man.. i need to know the measurements for inventory. like reggie is less expensive than korn and korns less expensive than dro.. but what would be a good measure for korn???? like dime, dub, and so on... ive been tokin up since i was 12 but recently decided to sell can you help out???
 
J

jersey125

Active Member
Rock1999 said:
Thanks again SenorSanteria. I got it working. I also found a ph number for the company and I called them. Even the Tech had to get help because of the 4th wire. Ended up not using the turquoise wire. Your help is awesome. I have no trouble growing out doors. I will be reading your advice you have given for indoors. A couple tricks I have for outside is,,, as the buds growing tip begines to strech, pinch the end back 1/4 inch. It will make the bug grow fatter. 1/4 oz more per 1oz. Also, I noticed in a drought, the rats would chew the bottom of the stem really bad. Every plant that was chewed,,,grew larger and fatter buds, over the plants that didnt get chewed. I use a fork or knif to scare the stem. Also,,when harvesting a plant. Take the whole plant and roots. Clean off the roots and place the plant (roots) in a boiling pot of water. Boil for a few minutes then hang to dry. This will force the resins in the roots to be pushed into the buds. Have a great New Year,,,,, Aloha,,,,
Click to expand...
How long do u boil the roots for?
 
Rock1999

Rock1999

Active Member
Howzit DKO20,,,,, I would give the roots a good 2 to 4 minutes in rapid boiling water. If you have more that one of the same weed. Boil one and leave the other plant alone. Then try to take a few hits of the boiled root plant and the next night try the unboiled root plane. You know,,,,do a test. I prefer to trim my plants before boiling and drying. PS,,,, Dont be sorry :)
 
Survolte

Survolte

Well-Known Member
Thanks for answering my last post. One more then I think I know it all mwahahahaha.

Do in need a ppm meter? Im growing aero so im guna have a reservoir. I was just going to use a standard procedure like topping it off with water one rday and half nute water the next. and I am going to release carbon with yeast and sugar so i think ill be safe there too but idk. Thanks for all your help.
 
G

ganjalord

Active Member
1)starting from seed, how big should the plant be before you put it under a 400w hid.
2) to keep a mother plant in veg. with lights on 24/7 what is the least or avg. cfl watts needed. (single plant)
 
Kriegs

Kriegs

Well-Known Member
jersey125 said:
I have a 400wtt bulb in a 2by 4 tent Is this ok for veg\flowering. help first time greeeeeen thumb
Click to expand...
Yes -- that's a very good match between space and light power. I assume you mean 400W HPS or MH? Or better yet, switchable between the two?

If switchable, the MH is superior for veg growth, the HPS for flowering.
 
Kriegs

Kriegs

Well-Known Member
ganjalord said:
1)starting from seed, how big should the plant be before you put it under a 400w hid.
2) to keep a mother plant in veg. with lights on 24/7 what is the least or avg. cfl watts needed. (single plant)
Click to expand...
Depends on your head-room in your grow space. Your plants will double to quadruple their height while flowering. I started flowering at 4 weeks at about 14-16" height -- they've put on 8-10 inches in the last week. You have to maintain enough space from your 400 to not burn your plants -- I keep mine at least 8 inches from the tops; preferably 12-14".

Sorry... no knowledge to share on the CFL / mother plant issue...
 
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