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TEKNIK

TEKNIK

Well-Known Member
SSGrower said:
Yeah, Im inqusitive, but I dont have your drive.
I consider myself an idea guy.
I love building shit, I dont see myself building leds.
I will look through the links, maybe thatl change my mind.

Whatever the solution is it needs to be modular (seperate from main light). I am on the fence as to wether a focused or distributed source would be better. UV will bounce around until it hits something that will adsorb it, so I kind of feel a distributed lower intensity pattern would be better that a focused source.
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If I was to do it then it would be in a strip format that could be easily replaced, wide spread and also placed below the main lighting so it can not damage them.
 
TEKNIK

TEKNIK

Well-Known Member
I don't think it would require alot of power either, 10 watts over a 4X4 should be enough. It would still require quite a few leds to spread it out evenly. I would guess around 24 leds total. 4 strips 500mm long with 6 leds on each strip should do the trick. It may only last a few months though and then need to be replaced, as you can't see uvb it needs to be checked on a spectrometer to see how fast it will deteriorate
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
TEKNIK said:
I don't think it would require alot of power either, 10 watts over a 4X4 should be enough. It would still require quite a few leds to spread it out evenly. I would guess around 24 leds total. 4 strips 500mm long with 6 leds on each strip should do the trick. It may only last a few months though and then need to be replaced, as you can't see uvb it needs to be checked on a spectrometer to see how fast it will deteriorate
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:clap:
Finally someone sees the light! Lol I've been saying that UVB LED is the way to go forever but no one wanted to hear it.

You can increase your chip count to inc longevity of chips, but the strip will have to then be designed for extended duration under UVB, so another route is to just slap a few on, drive em hard, and then replace based on hr count. Just like a forklift lol ... That's what I'm doing.. Plus its safer when the max is only what the sun can ~produce (vs tons of chips with a current spike) I could maybe even integrate a UVB %life meter on the app, ... hey that's a good idea! :bigjoint:

EDIT:
Or have the output be PWM-ed to reflect the hr count. So if I had it dimmed to half, the light would inc the current flow with respect to the wh (watt·hour) count & user dim input selection in an effort to maintain a certain intensity. The feature would be limited by how low you wanted to dim it though, if you wanted full blast itd still deteriorate..

Fluoros will be cheaper, probably, but there's always cheaper options. LED guys want options..
 
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Stephenj37826

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
ChiefRunningPhist said:
:clap:
Finally someone sees the light! Lol I've been saying that UVB LED is the way to go forever but no one wanted to hear it.

You can increase your chip count to inc longevity of chips, but the strip will have to then be designed for extended duration under UVB, so another route is to just slap a few on, drive em hard, and then replace based on hr count. Just like a forklift lol ... That's what I'm doing.. Plus its safer when the max is only what the sun can ~produce (vs tons of chips with a current spike) I could maybe even integrate a UVB %life meter on the app, ... hey that's a good idea! :bigjoint:

EDIT:
Or have the output be PWM-ed to reflect the hr count. So if I had it dimmed to half, the light would inc the current flow with respect to the wh (watt·hour) count & user dim input selection in an effort to maintain a certain intensity. The feature would be limited by how low you wanted to dim it though, if you wanted full blast itd still deteriorate..

Fluoros will be cheaper, probably, but there's always cheaper options. LED guys want options..
Click to expand...

We have some UV strips.... Wanna try one? PM me we will hook you up. It has 3 different wavelenths too.
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
ChiefRunningPhist said:
The hollow center facilitates 2 roles. The first is providing a more even distribution, and the second is plant structure. With light emitting from the outside edges compared to directly over the top I'm hoping the plant will reach OUT more than UP, and provide for greater air flow and easier scrogging as well as increased yield. I'm still not sure yet, but may put inward facing COBs at the corners to help exaggerate this dynamic and provide better side lighting.
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That's exactly my thoughts too. With the big 1920w one.im building. Gapping the strips apart in the centers some. Hoping for the same. I also found some sweet triangle shaped sinks that will take up to 30mm wide strip I believe. That have a slot to fit right into tnutz framing. Or 15 series aluminum extrusion with 6mm slot.
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
SSGrower said:
@ChiefRunningPhist if you know of a way to use these let me know.
View attachment 4320822
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I've never used them. So there's that lol..
But..
They operate based on a thermal gradient between the 2 plates.

Mid power LED are useful because they spread the light more evenly over a canopy, but also the heat is more evenly spread over an area.

I don't know yet, but if COBs were similar in effeciencies, or close to mid-power, you could throw a peltier/seebeck between the COB and the bestest biggest heatsink you can find (to stimulate the greatest gradient) and you could then convert a % of that concentrated waste energy emitted from COB into useable power for... Maybe a UV puck? Or a FR initiator? Or even just add to the main light. In essence, any light produced no matter the intensity is increasing your μmol/j vs not having a "recycler."

So it could potentially make COBs more useful and more effecient, but not sure on the implications of mid power. If COBs could get close to the same effeciency as mid power, then this could have heavy implications on light design, but if mid power are more effecienct than COB-- to the point that ~2-5% increase in overall effeciency of a COB is not going to offset the effeciency of mid power, then it's a wash in terms of industry wide effeciency implications, but it still could theoretically benefit COB fixtures currently in use, I think.

Theres different types of thermoelecetric generators utilizing different metals that operate in different temperature ranges. So I think you'd be after low temperature thermoelectric generators or seebeck devices. (Peltier is just a term describing the operating principle, seebeck is the reverse function) But then how much power you could generate would be based on how well you could keep one side cool, ie the side attached to the big heatsink. If you can keep that side cool, then I think you'd could power all (but not likely) or partially power (more likely) your reservoir cooler. We know the other side will get hot, that's what LEDs do, so its just if we can expell the heat from the cold side fast enough, which I think we can.


But all this is theory, so I'm not saying one thing for sure, just trying to show there's possibly a way you could do it, and that I'm fairly confident that its possible haha :bigjoint:
 
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SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
For the generator

Specifications:
  • Material: Ceramic / Bismuth Telluride.
  • Color: White.
  • Parametric model: SP1848-27145.
  • Temperature(C): 150 degree.
  • Open-circuit voltage(V): 4.8V.
  • Current(MA): 20/0.97/225; 40/1.8/368; 60/2.4/469; 80/3.6/559; 100/4.8/669.
  • Module weight: 25g / 0.89oz.
  • Module size: 4 * 4 * 0.4cm / 1.6 * 1.6 * 0.2inch (L * W * H)
For the cooler
TEC1-12706 40x40mm Thermoelectric Cooler 6A Peltier Module
  • Model number: TEC1-12706.
  • Operating Voltage: 12V.
  • Maximum Voltage- Umax (V) : 15.4V.
  • Maximum Current- Imax (A) : 6A.
  • Maximum Power : 92 W.
  • Maximum Temperature : 138°C.
  • Power Cord: 200mm.
 
SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
So less than an amp at under 5v

In series now mooring at it maybe 2 would run a cooing fan which would ultimately help maintain the temperature differential on a heat sink. This fact, as heat sink heats up power generation would not be able to prevent thermal runaway on the cob chip. That was my fear at least.
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
SSGrower said:
So less than an amp at under 5v

In series now mooring at it maybe 2 would run a cooing fan which would ultimately help maintain the temperature differential on a heat sink. This fact, as heat sink heats up power generation would not be able to prevent thermal runaway on the cob chip. That was my fear at least.
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It would depend on how well you were able to keep the cool side cool. But in theory it should combat thermal runaway, and even at an increasing rate with respect to Th (temp of hot side) increase. Ie the hotter the chip got the more power would be created to cool the chip, the more air blown over the chip.

What I'm saying is that thermal can already be managed with oversized passive heatsinks. So where the real gain is at with being able to generate based on temp gradient is in powering extra lights, or as you were saying possibly an aux device like a reservoir cooler. Where I'm conceptually questioning the theory is, if you pull the heat away, is there a gradient? But I'm fairly certain I'm just over thinking it lol.. only way to know for sure is to test!

EDIT:
5v @ 1A is 5w, you'd just get a buck/boost converter to convert to whatever voltage you needed, lm301b are supposedly hitting 220lm/w, so that could be similar to adding a 9w household LED somewhere in your garden you didn't have before..
 
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