New grower, 5 week old plant advice.

Its 5 weeks old, seems small, especially by comparison to other growers. Should i Prune those dying bottom leaves? is the varying shades of green normal?(or is that yellowing leaves ,thats how the dying ones looked originally). and finally if it is yellowing leaves(which i assume it is) do you think this is caused my a nutrient problem, or just light penetration issues).

My Temps have been fine, ive been waiting for the plant to start drooping before giving it water, this was originally every ~6 days. Now it droops on the third day without water, so i assume it is time to transplant soon. Here is a pictur of my light seutp


Thanks for the help, Jael

Edit: the schorched tips on the right of the plant arent nute burn, i had some drooping leaves raise up into the side light(dam cfls)

That is textbook Nitrogen Deficiency. Which is also why your plants growth has stunted, start feeding it nutes high in nitrogen every other 2 days for about a week, and you should start seeing a dramatic change to the livelihood of your plant.

Better to transplant very soon to be safe, make it a 3 gallon black plastic pot, with some fox farm ocean forest or equivalent diluted with 30-50% perlite to aid in compaction and to prevent nute burn, you lights need an improvement, ensure you have an even amount of 2700k and 6500k, and ensure they are within an inch or so of the leaf canopy, be prepared to double your lighting within the next 2-3 weeks, ensure you have a small fan to aid in plant breathing and remove any excess heat, never never remove any yellowing leave rather to wait until the plant has finished feeding of them, by being totally necrotic, dead and brown and crinkly , use the weight test to find out if she needs a drink or insert finger ...lol

thanks, so nitro def huh. Ive been using a 10-2-12 organic fert made from fish, i guess its not enough?

I would flush your plant, to help rid the lockout that's been created due to the Nit Def. How much are you feeding it when you do give it nutes? Also I wouldn't transplant until you're having to water her every day to every other day.

hmmm, how did the nit get locked out? i was under the impression that lockouts were caused by ph/temperature. Also, besides the last feed, my previous 4 were just plain water. Some people told me i had started giving nutes to early.

What is the pH of your water?
Dr. Jekyll

What is your water source (soft or hard)?
Are you using Cal-Mag (or similar)?
Mr. Hyde

my water is hard. it's ph is like 7.8~, but i have been lowering it to 6.5~. the feed does is naturally when feeding. I havn't added any cal mag, because my water is hard. (as a wise mad scientist instrucuted me)

Thanks

Hold on it looks like you used to strong of nutrients. burned the bottom of your plant flush it now. remove all dead leaves ect.

MariJesus said:

I would flush your plant, to help rid the lockout that's been created due to the Nit Def.

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So what exactly are flushing out? How would a nitrogen deficiency "create lockout"?

Edited to add: It it not nitrogen deficiency. Your plants are too compact and bushy with a good dark green color. N deficient plants at this age would be more spindly and w/sparse foliage, and the overall plant would be more pale.

jael07 said:

my water is hard. it's ph is like 7.8~, but i have been lowering it to 6.5~. the feed does is naturally when feeding. I havn't added any cal mag, because my water is hard. (as a wise mad scientist instrucuted me)

Thanks

Click to expand...

The pH seems right, just not sure what your issue is
Dr. Jekyll

agree, you likely don't need cal-mag with hard water
Mr. Hyde

here are some more pics, mostly of my second plant with similar yellowing.

edit: the brown was burning from growing into the cfl, nothing to do with yellowing.

When a deficiency happens, it locks out the plants natural ability to absorb nutrients. And Nitrogen deficiency specifically targets the lower part of the plant and moves its way to the top, it would not crate "spindly" leaves. It begins effecting the oldest leaves, and they turn a really pale yellow, and eventually die altogether. It slowly starts changing the hues of the newer growing leaves, and begins to stunt plant growth. This is not specific to cannabis, this is a deficiency that effects ALL plants. Flushing is running higher than average water levels through your medium to wash out any old nutes, or nutes not being absorbed by the plant.

MariJesus said:

When a deficiency happens, it locks out the plants natural ability to absorb nutrients.

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Care to explain how that happens? That's an awfully broad statement. The soil may be deficient of a nutrient, or may be experiencing "lockout". They are 2 different things, But N virtually never gets "locked out" as it is available at a very wide pH range

MariJesus said:

And Nitrogen deficiency specifically targets the lower part of the plant and moves its way to the top,

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N deficiency does not "target" lower leaves. But that is where the symptoms first appear. Nitrogen is a highly "mobile" element so the growing tips draw N from the lower leaves in an attempt to keep growing.

MariJesus said:

it would not crate "spindly" leaves.

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Bullshit. It low N will create spindly leaves, stems and overall plant growth.

MariJesus said:

Flushing is running higher than average water levels through your medium to wash out any old nutes, or nutes not being absorbed by the plant.

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OK we all know what flushing is, so answer my question from above: what exactly are you flushing out to fix the N deficiency?

I think you've just run out of pot for the root system possibly.

Wow, other than AimAim, this is a shitload of bad advice and lack of knowledge. The yellowing is not a deficiency, but rather most likely nute burn. It does look like you definitely need to repot that plant ASAP. If your PH is 6.5 you're pretty good there so not a problem. And Nitrogen rarely, if ever, suffers a lockout but is the first element that will show as yellowing or browning and curling of leaves. Transplant that baby as soon as possible. Give it nothing but PH'd water for the first 5-7 days, then resume normal feeding but at lower levels and it should bounce back quite dramatically.

Ledhed said:

The yellowing is not a deficiency, but rather most likely nute burn..

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Nute burn would effect the entire plant, not just the lower leaves.


Good lord, who taught you guys to read? I never once stated that the plant had nitrogen lockout, I said it has Nitrogen deficiency, and if you know anything about plants, and not just what you have read on forums, that Nitrogen is the plants essential nutrient, and without it, the plant cannot function properly, INCLUDING being able to absorb other nutes like, P, and K.

If you have nutrient "lock-out" feed using the "foliage spraying ' method this help lock-out. Nutrient "N" presents it's self with claw looking leaves and the color of the leaves is a dark green color. What nutrients are you using. 1st - your container should be larger use a 3-5 gallon, you are using ones for "seedlings", that's why they are small plants, make sure you are not under-watering them., if you had a nutrient deficency it would manafest all the leaves not just the lower one with burnt tips and brown spots, ect ---- RE-POT to 5 gallon container, if possible. all ways here to help!

Im using organic ferts, called Ocean Grow Green Gold ( 10-2-12), with hummeca from same company. I just transplanted into a 3 gallon pot. I really thought the roots would be visable through drainage wholse when it was time to transplant, but it never happened.. and when i pulled it out there was a whole lot of rootage circling the base of the pot.

UPDATE: Since repotting(about a week ago), the plant has practically doubled in size. Plant at 5 weeks Plant at 6 weeks
Overall the plant looks alot healthier also

big difference!! way to take the right advice. good luck w the rest of your grow!