new diy rdwc build can i get some advice

ttystikk · Sep 16, 2015

squidgy pete said:
theres some £££ pre made systems here that are using 4" piping in rdwc, not sure why probably to get more cash out yer pocket,
i can get 40mm pipe and fittings tub connectors very cheap so going for them,

what was it that made you go for a vertical grow ttystikk? i looked at it a few years back but never gave it a try

Yield per square foot of growing space. So far, my best is 1.2kg/m²... of trimmed, dry, cured, finished and ready for consumption. I believe the potential exists to double this figure- and not in a lab somewhere, but in regular commercial use.

squidgy pete · Sep 16, 2015

ttystikk said:
Yield per square foot of growing space. So far, my best is 1.2kg/m²... of trimmed, dry, cured, finished and ready for consumption. I believe the potential exists to double this figure- and not in a lab somewhere, but in regular commercial use.

very impressive my friend id be happy with half that in a m², is that with 1kw bulb?

redi jedi · Sep 16, 2015

ttystikk said:
@squidgy pete

I use 1" lines and bulkhead fittings. 3" is simply ridiculous- it was originally used because Current Culture's Undercurrent systems were engineered poorly.

LOL...if you say so.

Instead of using one 3" fitting...he uses three 1" fittings....kinda mickey mouse if you ask me.

ttystikk · Sep 16, 2015

redi jedi said:
LOL...if you say so.

Instead of using one 3" fitting...he uses three 1" fittings....kinda mickey mouse if you ask me.

Mickey is rich n famous- and you're not.

Three- actually four- bulkhead fittings per tub were cheaper than one uniseal and guaranteed I'd never have a clog that drowned anything.

You've never seen me say my setup is ready for commercial production, because it's a constantly evolving proof of concept rig, a self funded test stand lab, if you like.

Therefore, I've done a lot of things that I'd do differently in such a setting. Fewer bulkhead fittings might not be one of them, considering their effectiveness as cheap insurance.

ttystikk · Sep 16, 2015

squidgy pete said:
very impressive my friend id be happy with half that in a m², is that with 1kw bulb?

No, it's per m² of floor space, because that's the footprint under one of my 4'x6' vertical trellis panels. One plant generally gets about 700-800W of HID, currently 860W CDM on magnetic ballasts. That's because there are several plants in the silo and less than one lamp per plant.

redi jedi · Sep 16, 2015

ttystikk said:
Mickey is rich n famous- and you're not.

Three- actually four- bulkhead fittings per tub were cheaper than one uniseal and guaranteed I'd never have a clog that drowned anything.

You've never seen me say my setup is ready for commercial production, because it's a constantly evolving proof of concept rig, a self funded test stand lab, if you like.

Therefore, I've done a lot of things that I'd do differently in such a setting. Fewer bulkhead fittings might not be one of them, considering their effectiveness as cheap insurance.

You have 8 potential leak points per tub instead of 2 if you used the proper size fitting...practices like this are referred to as mickey mouse.

ttystikk · Sep 16, 2015

redi jedi said:
You have 8 potential leak points per tub instead of 2 if you used the proper size fitting...practices like this are referred to as mickey mouse.

Four. And their aggregate reliability is still higher than one uniseal.

It's an elegant solution to the issue of roots clogging drain lines because it's bulletproof and inexpensive.

Mickey Mouse would approve.

redi jedi · Sep 16, 2015

You say its a solution, elegantly..

I dont know how you figure smaller lines and fittings are less prone to clogging...but I'm sure you're gonna tell us.

ttystikk · Sep 16, 2015

redi jedi said:
You say its a solution, elegantly..

I dont know how you figure smaller lines and fittings are less prone to clogging...but I'm sure you're gonna tell us.

I've seen the one the inch hole clog- and drown a whole row in an Undercurrent.

'Redundancy'. Most folks don't need to be told. You don't need to explain it to people, either. Lol

redi jedi · Sep 16, 2015

You didnt explain anything...

So because you seen roots clog a 3" opening, you figure two 1" is better?

IMO...what causes roots to be drawn into the downstream pipe is the velocity of the current. The water velocity increases as it travels from the tote and into your plumbing. So smaller lines and fittings means greater velocity...stronger current.

Basic hydrodynamics...

redi jedi · Sep 16, 2015

In my line of work, "redundancy" would dictate two 3" lines.

ttystikk · Sep 16, 2015

redi jedi said:
In my line of work, "redundancy" would dictate two 3" lines.

And cost would leave you out.

Vumar · Sep 17, 2015

redi jedi said:
In my line of work, "redundancy" would dictate two 3" lines.

Shots fired.

Triplezero1 · Sep 18, 2015

The systems I build use 2" Schedule 40 PVC lines for flow between grow modules & 3/4" vinyl for the return back to the control module. I do however use a separate 250gph pump for the 1/10th HP chiller I use. I match the system return pump to how many gallons I want to move in an hour. My systems recirculate a minimum of 5 times per hour but no more than 7. Any more & you run the risk of root damage/clogging. I use bulkhead fittings instead of unit-seals too. Uni's almost always leak. A properly thought out system will work for you for many years. Here's a couple pics of my systems. One is a 24 plant veg setup & one 24 plant flower setup.

ttystikk · Sep 18, 2015

Triplezero1 said:
The systems I build use 2" Schedule 40 PVC lines for flow between grow modules & 3/4" vinyl for the return back to the control module. I do however use a separate 250gph pump for the 1/10th HP chiller I use. I match the system return pump to how many gallons I want to move in an hour. My systems recirculate a minimum of 5 times per hour but no more than 7. Any more & you run the risk of root damage/clogging. I use bulkhead fittings instead of unit-seals too. Uni's almost always leak. A properly thought out system will work for you for many years. Here's a couple pics of my systems. One is a 24 plant veg setup & one 24 plant flower setup.View attachment 3502469 View attachment 3502470

That's good stuff! How do you keep the bulkheads from leaking? I would think the insulation inside those insulated runs would crush and not let it seal?

Triplezero1 · Sep 19, 2015

They don't leak at all. Not much tightening is needed. I put a bead of high quality silicone sealant around the gasket of the bulkhead on the side that contacts the inside of the cooler, pop it through the hole & tighten the nut as hard as I can with my hand. Then give it a quarter turn with pliers, wipe the excess around the fitting & let dry over night. The system is expensive to create, but the reward is unmatched to anything else. The system is very efficient, very easy to operate & most importantly very easy to clean. Its a whole game changer.

ttystikk · Sep 19, 2015

Triplezero1 said:
They don't leak at all. Not much tightening is needed. I put a bead of high quality silicone sealant around the gasket of the bulkhead on the side that contacts the inside of the cooler, pop it through the hole & tighten the nut as hard as I can with my hand. Then give it a quarter turn with pliers, wipe the excess around the fitting & let dry over night. The system is expensive to create, but the reward is unmatched to anything else. The system is very efficient, very easy to operate & most importantly very easy to clean. Its a whole game changer.

I like the use of insulated tubs. That and multiple growing sites per tub are the main differences between your setup and mine.

Triplezero1 · Sep 20, 2015

Thanks man. I found that I can use a much smaller chiller when using the beer cooler method. The nute temps never fluctuate. They stay @ 67°F without any issues & each system holds about 90 gallons. It's been working wonderfully.

Danimalcookies · Oct 1, 2015

I have a sorta rwdc....lol. It's a tube system with 5x5 inch by 8 feet pvc posts. I use flood and drain fittings to control the water level. 3 air stones per tube. 40 gallon res. 1/10th hp chiller. 2 1000 watt ballasts, and 2 400's in cool tubes. 2800 watts total. All in a 5x10 tent. Although the chiller isn't necessary right now. My plants are loving it so far..but just clones so far.
My recommendation would be go sog or scrog. Higher numbers, but less veg time.

ttystikk · Oct 2, 2015

Danimalcookies said:
I have a sorta rwdc....lol. It's a tube system with 5x5 inch by 8 feet pvc posts. I use flood and drain fittings to control the water level. 3 air stones per tube. 40 gallon res. 1/10th hp chiller. 2 1000 watt ballasts, and 2 400's in cool tubes. 2800 watts total. All in a 5x10 tent. Although the chiller isn't necessary right now. My plants are loving it so far..but just clones so far.
My recommendation would be go sog or scrog. Higher numbers, but less veg time.

RDWC=
Recirculating
DEEP
Water
Culture

Yours is not deep; it's very shallow and continuously running, which make it 'NFT';
Nutrient
Film
Technique

Not saying it isn't awesome, but I am saying that I am the misapplied terminology TERMINATOR!

new diy rdwc build can i get some advice

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