New cob light setup Citizen or vero 29S? looking for best bang for your buck chip

Wicked0ne said:
Would these be equal to the 1825 light engines?
https://northerngrowlights.com/products/citizen-clu058-cob?variant=21331144260
And
https://northerngrowlights.com/coll...t120-passive-heatsink-kit?variant=27734882696

And would one 1825 be ok for a spacebucket?

Edited for spelling cuz i is adikted to foniks
Click to expand...
same chip but those 120s are gonna top out around 50w. If you want to run up to 80-100 w get robins sst-x instead. Beyond that youre gonna need an active solution (either a prebuilt light engine or dedicated fans on each sst-x)
Bubz23 said:
T



Thanks, so just to make sure i have this right, with those 120 drivers is there a voltage range you have to stay within with the cobs, you said you could put 1 cob or 10 what is the voltage range, those 1825 are 50W?, sorry just trying to wrap my head around it all and for future possibilities with other cobs??
Click to expand...
they will run any cob requiring up to 53v but all the cobs on the driver should be same type (different colors ok, but they should all be 1818, or all 1212, or all cxb3590, etc
 
@CobKits Thanks for the info!

I'm planning on starting with just one cob for a spacebucket and I'm wondering what color light (in kelvins) would be best for veg/flower. I think I read that the hire the kelvin the bluer the light which can help keep the plants from stretching, did I understand that right? Should I lean towards the higher end(4000-5000k)? Or somewhere in the middle around 3000-3500k)?
 
if you plan on using it mostly for flowering 3000k or 3500k is most appropriate, will still veg great for you. once your past mother/clone stage i personally think theres not a lot of reason to used strong blues as reds give more complete development and more leaf mass
 
When looking at the Vero's I'm a little confused about a few things.
The model numbers look like: BXRC-35E10K0-B-7X

Where:
[BXRC] = Family
[35] = CCT in Kelvins(35 == 3500K)
[E] = Min CRI
[10K] = Flux Indicator
[0] = Color Targeting Designator
[ B ] = Array Configuration
[7] = Generation
[X] = CCT Bin Options

I'm just a bit confused on the Min CRI, Array Configuration, and CCT Bin Options. I know I want either 3000 or 3500K of the Vero 29 Gen 7. Do the Min CRI, Array Configuration, or CCT Bin Options mean a lot? Can anyone help me figure out what the ideal chip would be from http://www.bridgelux.com/sites/default/files/resource_media/DS93 Vero 29 Array Data Sheet Rev A 20160622.pdf

Edited because BBCodes
 
min cri is important as 80 vs 90 cri have different spectrums, 90 has more far red

array configuration is important because D,B, and C are 36, 50, and 68V respectively- they are entirely different models

CCT bin option is irrelevant to our application. thats like looking up at a row of lights in the mall and being able to pick one out as being slightly "off color". plants dont care about that.
 
@CobKits Once again thanks! I really do appreciate the help, I'd be lost without it! Also Happy Thanksgiving!

So if I'm following along right... BXRC-30E10K0-C-7X uses a bit more actual wattage, but has very similiar or same L/W as the others models, but will produce a little more lumens in total?
 
Wicked0ne said:
@CobKits Once again thanks! I really do appreciate the help, I'd be lost without it! Also Happy Thanksgiving!

So if I'm following along right... BXRC-30E10K0-C-7X uses a bit more actual wattage, but has very similiar or same L/W as the others models, but will produce a little more lumens in total?
Click to expand...
Efficacy on the 3 groups is the same, output is determined by the led string arrangement and how that configures re voltage and current. you may find it useful to download the excel simulator that can help define the outcomes based on changing constants
http://www.bridgelux.com/product-simulator
cheers
Mark
 
@welight Thanks. I'm going to check that out. There is just so much stuff a noob has to learn to halfway make sense of everything.

Looking at the data sheets http://www.bridgelux.com/sites/defa...3 Vero 29 Array Data Sheet Rev A 20160622.pdf ,
BXRC-35E10K0-C-7X has a nominal drive current of 1710ma, does that mean I need to find a driver that does 1710ma? Looking around I don't see any drivers that output exactly 1710ma, only 1750ma.

So, if I want to run 1 BXRC-35E10K0-C-7X and get the most bang from it I want a driver that can output at least 118.7W and output at least 69.4V? Would the following driver be a perfect match?
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...YugmIgjYqS5DGx%2bP1t8iKXSSXX9jfkMm%2bjc6m5A==
 
Wicked0ne said:
@welight Thanks. I'm going to check that out. There is just so much stuff a noob has to learn to halfway make sense of everything.

Looking at the data sheets http://www.bridgelux.com/sites/default/files/resource_media/DS93 Vero 29 Array Data Sheet Rev A 20160622.pdf ,
BXRC-35E10K0-C-7X has a nominal drive current of 1710ma, does that mean I need to find a driver that does 1710ma? Looking around I don't see any drivers that output exactly 1710ma, only 1750ma.

So, if I want to run 1 BXRC-35E10K0-C-7X and get the most bang from it I want a driver that can output at least 118.7W and output at least 69.4V? Would the following driver be a perfect match?
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/ELG-150-C1750B/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvV8Y9YugmIgjYqS5DGx%2bP1t8iKXSSXX9jfkMm%2bjc6m5A==
Click to expand...
no you dont need to get a driver to meet the nominal drive, just one that meets your needs, the chip has a range of suggested drive currents but you can use any drive current as long as you dont exceed the max allowable drive
Cheers
Mark
 
welight said:
Efficacy on the 3 groups is the same, output is determined by the led string arrangement and how that configures re voltage and current.
Click to expand...
Maybe at the single die level. the three chips all have unique efficacy vs watt curves
 
Why are you using constant voltage? I've been gone a little bit now but everyone had been going constant current I thought.
 
CobKits said:
View attachment 3838079

1 driver per cob and later on when you want to run the cobs more efficiently you can run 2 per cob and repurpose the extra drivers or put them on the shelf as spares
Click to expand...


Ok finally ready to order,

what do you recommend for t 3000k 80cri or 3000k 90cri for flowering, also do i need a separate driver to run the fans on the light engines. i plan on the 4 1825s to start as recommended.

Thanks so much!
 
both are great. 90 cri *might* stretch a little more which isnt a bad thing. some people report 90cri finishing earlier due to the far red
 
id have to dig it up, its been discussed extensively here
in short series is more noob-proof and parallel is more flexible and makes better use of driver
bump me later if i forget
 
CobKits said:
both are great. 90 cri *might* stretch a little more which isnt a bad thing. some people report 90cri finishing earlier due to the far red
Click to expand...
Thanks,

Do i need to order anything else other then the 4 1825 and the 4 120A drivers. do i need separate drivers for the fans on the light engines, or any other connectors to wire it all up?

Thanks!
 
just bought 2 100 watt 2 cob go green led's using citizen clu048 chips.. 4000k, i know a 3000k-3500k is optimal for bloom.. i will be running the 2 4000k citizens along with 2 315 watt cmh lamps at 3100k.. i have a 4ftx6ft table,,i think running 2 315's and 2 100 watt citizens should be great coverage will the 3100k and 4000k create a balanced spectrum?
would u guys think running 3 315 watt cmh lamps over the 4x6 table would be better? or will the mix of 2 cmh and 2 100 watt cobs cover just as well and save me on wattage? 3 315=945 watts, 2 315's +2 100 watt citizens=830watt total...thoughts?
has anyone actually done some runs with the 100 watt citizen cobs from go green,,id like to hear how anyone has had results with the citizenclu048 4000k led's????
 
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