Need some help

I went out of town for 4 days and left my girl alone. She was starting to show a little nute burned a few days before I left. Are these further signs of nute burn or is this some sort of def? All of the leaves that are showing symptoms are getting crispy and curling also. I know in late weeks of flowering it is to be expected to see some yellowing.

I doubt it is nute burn. However I do believe you are right about the deficiencies. I cant pinpoint down just 1, but it's looks like P, Cal, Mg.

What is the soil made of?
What is your waters quality?
Are you adding any pH products?
Age of plants? Time in bloom?

sickly-lookin' purple stems too.............like tiki says........give us the dirty details

Check nitrogen too. I know I was in week 5 of flowering when mine went downhill quick. My bloom
nutes didn't have enough nitrogen to sustain leaf health and almost all of the fuckers turned yellow and crispy and eventually fell off.
I'm going to do an early harvest this afternoon when I get home and see if any of the buds are salvageable.

bu$hleaguer said:

Check nitrogen too. I know I was in week 5 of flowering when mine went downhill quick. My bloom
nutes didn't have enough nitrogen to sustain leaf health and almost all of the fuckers turned yellow and crispy and eventually fell off.
I'm going to do an early harvest this afternoon when I get home and see if any of the buds are salvageable.

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That's true about the N need in bloom, a lot of growers supply insufficient N levels for robust node stacking. That's how you pull baby arms. Next time incorporate a carbohydrate like molasses. It will help feed microbes and allow plants to make better use of nitrogen thru N fixation, a bacterial bio function. EWC tea in bloom bro-

Sorry for leaving out so many details. I am still new to this. She is in FFoF cut with about 1/3 perlite. I have been feeding her the FF trio with some added cal mag. its been about a week since she has had food. Going out of town unexpectedly kind of threw my schedule a little off. I have been keeping the ph around 6.5-6.7 every watering. I have been using RO water from the local grocery. She is an autoflowering LA Diva in about her 6th week of growth, I project about 4 weeks in flowering.

Relax62 said:

Sorry for leaving out so many details. I am still new to this. She is in FFoF cut with about 1/3 perlite. I have been feeding her the FF trio with some added cal mag. its been about a week since she has had food. Going out of town unexpectedly kind of threw my schedule a little off. I have been keeping the ph around 6.5-6.7 every watering. I have been using RO water from the local grocery. She is an autoflowering LA Diva in about her 6th week of growth, I project about 4 weeks in flowering.

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your overfeeding! water only with ca/mg and loose the pH adjusters. I have a feeling the potassium bi carbonate is affecting the soil and the plants preferred pH. Not saying that 6.5 is bad, its actually optimal, however FFOF is of organic origin and being organic a big nono is adding anything to adjust pH. The microbiology of a healthy soil along with the plants natural ability to exude carbohydrates, alter/ adjust cautions and anions to nutritional needs all thru there roots. This has an effect on the pH of the substrate media, now the plant will take up certain nutritional elements and lets say it's N, which in makeup is acidic, this in return raises the pH since the acidic nature of the media/fertilizer is being used, leaving an alkaline media. But then comes the need for P and K and well................ the end result is a symbiotic harmony in not only pH but also nutritional access based on demand and supply. Its mother nature man!

So you don't think there is any P def?

Relax62 said:

So you don't think there is any P def?

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LOL I was going to start out by saying relax, and then my drunk ass looks at you name--LMAO

But yeah relax brother.... it's a big misconception we growers have, but to trust a breeder on growth times is a lesson only those seasoned growers learn. I can tell you first hand that plants will finish when they are damn ready too. An auto don't always mean it's gonna auto, and when it comes to fertz. Plants need P but not as much as N, K, Ca, S and some more than others need lots of Mg. Too much P can actually retard and decrease yield, reduce aroma, taste(harsh), and make the buds sparkle like its full of flint dust. Too much K can have a negative effect on the availability of P as can overwatering and cold temps.

Relax62 said:

So you don't think there is any P def?

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yes I do but its because your overfeeding. Just give plain H20 with ca/mg and it will clear up.

Thank you so much!

Relax62 said:

Thank you so much!

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All good bro. Peace-

agreed.......some P lock-out from overabundance of something else. I'm high, and can't remember all the P antagonists. fancy soil, fancy problems..........who said that??

1/3 peat, 1/3 well-rotted manure, 1/3 perlite.........some minerals, some mycos. that's it.
do not feed until pistils show, with a high P fertilizer..........maybe twice.......no more. only water when pots are really light to lift. use one size larger pot than you think you need, and fill it to within one inch of rim; it will settle. keep plants trembling in a light breeze. never a problem again. I call it the.........Don't Spend A Lot, Never Have A Problem, Yields As Good As Anyone's, Dank As A Paris Hooker In A Rain Coat Method. I know I risk heresy charges, but that's my opinion. the plants I grow in old bug shit.........yield as well as, and taste as good as the plants grown in fancy, expensive mediums, with even fancier, more expensive nutes. prepare the stake to burn me at........I won't resist.....lol.