Need some help with roots.

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Beer42O

Well-Known Member
Looks like one is doing very well. 2 others are doing okay and the other one is showing no signs of new root growth. I wish the blueberry cheese wasnt the one that looked the worse, but it is. The larger 2 are WW and "unknown". The middle sized one is barneys violator kush.

all 4 look pretty good. color is good. sizes vary, but they are all different genetics...
 

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Beer42O

Well-Known Member
Also im switching the brand of nutes i use. I was using Flora Nova. I am changing because it is very thick and clogs everything. Its also dark brown and turns everything brown. The guy in the nute store told me to get the "Dutch Master Gold" I got the smaller bottles (A and B). Ill tell you what, their website has a calculator that tells u how many mLs to have (depending on res size) to get optimal ppm. This is broken up weekly. and they let you move the weeks, so if u want to veg for 2 weeks, or weg for 5, it will take it all into account. Its also clear, so it wont clog pumps, jets or turn roots brown. I Couldnt find the rhizotonic stuff but he said the only stuff he uses is "root juice" so i picked up 250mls of that to be used in conjunction with the hygrozyme.

Anyone ever tried Dutch Master Gold nutes (just for veg.. he is having me use a different brand for bloom)
 
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Beer42O

Well-Known Member
H202 AKA hydrogen peroxide. I see the most common use is 50% @ 1ml p/L= 4ml p/gallon. I have 5 gallons =20ml of 50%. Now, i can only find 3%. 50/3= 17. so you would need 17x the amount of 3% that you would need of 50%. now with that said @ 4mL p/g @ 50% = 68. so you need 68ml p/g of 3%. So if i use 5 gallons it would be 5x68=340. So, mathematically 340ml's of 3% would give me the same amount 20mls of 50% would. so, can i add 340mLs of 3% hydrogen peroxide every 4 days to my res and be okay? or will it not work?

Also, it seems a gallon of 35% h202 is about 50 buxx. 32oz of 3% =$2. there are 128oz to a gallon. So for apples to apples it would be $60 p/g 50% and $8 p/g of 3%. Now going by same math before, but with 35% instead of 50%... 35/3= 11.5. So it will take 11.5x the amount of 3% it would of 35%. So, it would cost about $90 to do it with 3% as opposed to $60 for 35%. But 35% would be + shipping etc... obviously its cheaper to buy 35% but its hard to find. So for the few buxx u save is it worth the hassle? Or can you NOT use 3% like this? anyone ever tried? or, any tips on local places that carry higher % h202?
 
morrisgreenberg

morrisgreenberg

Well-Known Member
the H2o2, you can either add 1-3ML/gal or make it into 3% by adding one ounce 35% and 11oz of water, then just use a tsp per gallon of that mix, thats the most efficient way of doing it, as for the regular 3% many people claim theres other additives in it and all i see are people saying how weary they are of using it, havent seen any evidence of people killing off a crop from it, i would say stay away and try to find it online
 
Y

YaK

just some guy
Beer42O said:
H202 AKA hydrogen peroxide. I see the most common use is 50% @ 1ml p/L= 4ml p/gallon. I have 5 gallons =20ml of 50%. Now, i can only find 3%. 50/3= 17. so you would need 17x the amount of 3% that you would need of 50%. now with that said @ 4mL p/g @ 50% = 68. so you need 68ml p/g of 3%. So if i use 5 gallons it would be 5x68=340. So, mathematically 340ml's of 3% would give me the same amount 20mls of 50% would. so, can i add 340mLs of 3% hydrogen peroxide every 4 days to my res and be okay? or will it not work?

Also, it seems a gallon of 35% h202 is about 50 buxx. 32oz of 3% =$2. there are 128oz to a gallon. So for apples to apples it would be $60 p/g 50% and $8 p/g of 3%. Now going by same math before, but with 35% instead of 50%... 35/3= 11.5. So it will take 11.5x the amount of 3% it would of 35%. So, it would cost about $90 to do it with 3% as opposed to $60 for 35%. But 35% would be + shipping etc... obviously its cheaper to buy 35% but its hard to find. So for the few buxx u save is it worth the hassle? Or can you NOT use 3% like this? anyone ever tried? or, any tips on local places that carry higher % h202?
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This is what I use
http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/itemdesc.asp?ic=NEGOBG&eq=&Tp=

30 bucks a gallon, I dont remember what I pay for shipping. the 3% is a pain in the ass, and I'm not sure what other stuff is in there.

I searched for 50% forever... but couldnt source it.

Oh yeah, ask your hydro shop place to carry it, and see if they will match the price of the link I posted. cut out shipping, and get it local.

Glad to see your roots improving, good job!

Also, Im not so sure you should be using H2O2 with hygrozyme? seems like one would counteract the other.
 
morrisgreenberg

morrisgreenberg

Well-Known Member
Also, Im not so sure you should be using H2O2 with hygrozyme? seems like one would counteract the other.[/quote]



many people say not to use H2o2 with hygrozyme, but i have good success with it, when i top off i dont add it, but initially i take it easy and go 1ML/Gal cus it just might kill the hygrozyme effects...
 
Squarepusher45

Squarepusher45

Well-Known Member
morrisgreenberg said:
Also, Im not so sure you should be using H2O2 with hygrozyme? seems like one would counteract the other.many people say not to use H2o2 with hygrozyme, but i have good success with it, when i top off i dont add it, but initially i take it easy and go 1ML/Gal cus it just might kill the hygrozyme effects...
Click to expand...

The label on the HygroZyme says something about "H2O2 is safe to use at reduced levels".
 
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Beer42O

Well-Known Member
I couldnt find the rhizotonic so i went with a local recommendation "root juice". Either way, when combined with hygrozyme and Dutch Master Gold nutes, the roots and plants took off. I mean all you have to do is scroll up and see how terrible they looked just 1 week ago. Im amazed.

The new 1000wtt mh/hps setup is working great. Ambient temps never exceed 74F, if they do AC kicks on. Temps in resiviore never exceed 21C (about 70F).

Blueberry cheese finally showing new node growth. So all 4 have new, healthy root/plant growth. Look like they never had plythium at all!

Also, has anyone ever tired the Ph Nanny (google it). for 400 buxx it seems like a great deal (seems like its 1/2 the other available brands) It only can do one, ph up OR down. But who needs PH up (unless your correcting an overdose of ph down...which the machine would never do)
 
bobbyboy34

bobbyboy34

Well-Known Member
so thats a automatic PH doser for 400 bux, that sounds like a good deal, i need one of those so i don't have to keep manually ph downing

on here people always try to tell me theit ph never goes up, well i think to myself, their plants must not be eating, because i know my ph goes up when my plants eat, and it goes up faster when it gets around the time i need to change nutes...people are funny...but you beer...you're legit
 
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Beer42O

Well-Known Member
bobby: Whoever told you ph doesnt go up is a idiot. Its a direct side effect of plants eating.. I currently use about 2mls of 10% ph down EVERY day. 1ml in am and 1ml in pm. AND keep in mind on only 2.5 gallon res. (drip fed & aeroponic jets. res changed weekly) I'm week 3 veg @ 1000ppm. So my nutes are strong (to rule out lack of nutes making ph go up more). Even my clones need ph down (on a drastically less volume, but still required non-the-less.) So just ignore those noobs, and let them spew out whatever nonsensical verbal puke they want. Trying to correct them is like beating a dead horse... sometimes fun, but otherwise a waste of time.

morris: thanks for the kind words. hehe

Something to watch out with the ph dosers: if you keep the "acid" (ph down" too far away from the units electrode, the res might get too low of a ph before the electrode has a chance to notice the solutions ph is low. So to correct some people are putting the acid drip right next to the ph electrode. this way it will only drop 1 drop of ph down per 20 minutes max. Its just a good way to prevent an ph down-overdose!

Im reading around that you can build them for even less, although the pumps used to build budget ones WILL shit on you about 4-6 times a year (about every other month) from the acid. Here is the DIY list. Quoting from another forum**

Beer42O said:
Items needed:
1. Milwaukee SMS122 continous ph monitor/controller - $83 - You can get these off ebay, there's tons of them. Just be sure to get the correct model number, as you must have this one to perform the acid dosing. They do have ones that are only monitors, and that's obiously not what you want. Just match up the model number to be sure you're getting the right one.

2. Smallest submersible pump you can find - $10 - I found one at a hardware store for $10 and it's an extremely low flowrate, only 30 gph. Look for adjustable ones too, I should be able to adjust mine lower.

3. Acid Reservoir - $3 - I just bought a juice pitcher for a few bucks. Make sure that it's plastic, so that it will hold up to the acid just fine. Also, it's important to have a way for air to get in through the top, as it will be needed as you pump the acid out.

4. Appropriate tubing - $2 - you'll likely need 10 feet or less, unless you're in an abnormal situation. Bring your new pump with and just find the smallest tubing that your pump is capable of using. I used 1/4" inside diameter. Color makes no difference, as nothing will grow in the acid anyway.

TOTAL COST: $98

Let's get building!

Well, I guess I'd hardly call it building, but bear with me. This should only take you 20 minutes at the most once you have all your supplies. First, calibrate your new ph meter with two points using 7 and 4 ph buffer solutions. The centerpoint will be off most likely, but the slope will probably already be pretty close. The instructions with the monitor are pretty clear on this process.

So, start by hanging your monitor on the wall so you can easily keep an eye on it while it's running. First off, you'll notice what looks like a ac to dc adapter with a plug in it. This actually does not power the monitor, rather it's a switch that the unit controls. Look at the pictures to understand the setup, but basically when the ph rises above your setpoint, it will turn on this outlet. This is the key to the functioning of this system. Plug that in, and then find the ac-dc adapter for the unit. Attach the ph probe and your monitor should be completly setup! Now, we need to set up our dosing system.

The juice pitcher that you had should be filled with acid. I'm not sure yet what the best concentration is, perhaps we can report our findings as we test it out. But basically, the more concentrated it is, the longer it will be maintainance free. Now, plug your submersible pump into the switch that is controlled by the ph meter. Connect your tubing to the pump, and place it in your acid reservoir.

Now this next part may be key to prevent over dosing! I have used a cable tie to attach my acid tube right to my ph probe. It's up the probe housing from the sensor several centimeters, however by injecting the acid near the probe, it will cause pulses off acid instead of pumping large amounts as the ph fluctuates. Feel free to experiment, but just be careful of what could happen and keep a close eye on it until you're confident you can trust it.

So, go ahead and set your setpoint and sit back to watch your meter automatically dose! If you get more acid flow than you would like, choke back your pump or put a c-clamp on the tube to reduce flow.

I welcome input and discussion on this. I've got it setup, but I just finished a rebuild on my hydro system, so I've gotta wait for the sealants to dry before I can fully test it. I hope this helps alot of people! "
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I know you can get special pumps that never actually touch the liquid, they will last much much much longer, but also cost about 400 (powestalsic pumps? i forget name... its medical shit)
 
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