Need Light Suggestions for a 6.5 x 7 (45sqft) Flower only room.

Eviljay

Member
So I decided to build a bigger room. I have a 6.5x7 room, flat white walls. 6.5 foot ceilings. There is a entry door in one corner, but 90 % of the room is usable. I have a separate room for vegging.

I have a complete extra brand new HTGSupply 600W Digital HPS in a HTGSupply Euro Air Cooled Hood sitting in the basement. Regardless, how would you light it?

50W/SQFT = 2200Watts. My original though was 4 - 1000's, but the room turned out a little smaller than I thought. 4000W=like 95W/SQft, probably overkill. I could hang 4 - air cooled 600 HPS's. Or I could do like 2 1000W big kahunas or something in the center and save allot of duct work. But I feel my plants on the outside arent gonna get the light from 2 - 1000Ws in the center. Is there a downside to using the 600s? Will I just not get the penetration from the 600's that 1000's would? The options are gonna cost the same, actually cheaper to go with the 2 1000's, even with the 600 I already have, but I care more about what makes the most sense for this room. I could always do 2 - 1000's with wide hoods in the center, then some T-5 panels on the walls, but thats just more crap to worry about if some more HP light would just do it.. What would you do? Thanks all..

Note, picked up 8 nice plants that are ready to go into flower next week. I'll get some pics quick. The little closet is working out nice...
 

eyecandi

Well-Known Member
2x600w (or 1000w) on a straight light mover, or 3 on a 360degree rotator. either way, moving the lights will greatly increase coverage (the 1000w will give greater depth of penetration though, to give better light to lower branches and will also really dense out the buds). using a mover you can use 1/3 less lights. if tall space, i'm a fan of 1000w to grow em bigger (if i get in trouble for growing, it doesn't matter how big it is to them .... so might as well maximize production on a smaller #)
 

zem

Well-Known Member
i'd go with 4x 600w. have you considered vertical lighing? you could cover that area with less light and more grams per watt but it needs to be done right
 

biffchicken

Well-Known Member
I would think that 2 600w would be sufficient for that type of grow space. 2 x 600w's would be better than a single 1000w from what I've heard, because it would cover a greater area, and would give the plants more light all over the stem from more than one angle. A light mover would be a good addition as well if you were using the 2 x 600w's. 4 x 600w might be a bit much, but 4 is better than 2 of course. Just have to start worrying about heat at that point.
 

zem

Well-Known Member
I would think that 2 600w would be sufficient for that type of grow space. 2 x 600w's would be better than a single 1000w from what I've heard, because it would cover a greater area, and would give the plants more light all over the stem from more than one angle. A light mover would be a good addition as well if you were using the 2 x 600w's. 4 x 600w might be a bit much, but 4 is better than 2 of course. Just have to start worrying about heat at that point.
i am assuming that he wants to cover the whole 45sq.ft general rule of thumb is 50w/ft minimum that is 2250watts. 4 600's are 2400w just above the minimum. but yeah with 4 600's you definitely need cooltubes and very good venting
 

Eviljay

Member
Yeah, I'll be using either cooltubes or hoods, so keeping cool isn't an issue. I have good cool air to suck in and outside exhaust. My primary concern is the difference in penetration. If the following were your choices, what would you do?

- Two 1000w on movers
- Four 600(one centered over ea 4 x4)
- T5 panels on walls to supplement as/if necessary.

Again, really looking for the suggestion that is gonna give me the best output. Another 1000w is only gonna cost me an extra $60 for the entire 2 month flower cycle. If the extra 1000w is gonna make a 6oz difference on a 12 plant grow, this is a no brained. I don't want overkill, but I want it maximizing my room and light as best possible without having to move plants all the time. Thanks again all. Pictures will come after the weekend.
 

eyecandi

Well-Known Member
for penetration and bud density, do the 2x1000w on a mover (what I meant at first, not a single 1000w.)

the stationary 600w will create areas that light doesn't penetrate, no matter how you position them. movers allow the light to reach all corners of the garden and to reach down deep into the canopy areas that normally get shaded by huge leaves @ the 3rd-4th week of flowering.

another thought to save on initial costs. use 1000w digital ballasts. these can be dialed for power output - 600w, 750w, 1000w .... all with the same bulb and no decrease in bulb life. dial down the 2 to 600w during initial 2weeks of flowering (they don't need the 1000w at this stage, especially if you can drop the hoods close), dial it up to 750 for another 2 weeks, then full power the rest of the cycle.

T-5 lighting on the side won't penetrate far, flourescent lighting isn't meant for depth of penetration (especially as the canopy thickens)
 

Wood.

Active Member
two thousands. i dont think movers are necessary at all. i mean most dont use a mover over a 4x4 area per 1k. they can cover that pretty well. where you gonna move the light? lol.

light movers are a joke. save that money and buy more light...

i would put them over a 7x4 table and have the potential to pull 4 pounds...
 
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