Heisengrow
Well-Known Member
Yeah no such thing as ph perfect because everyones base ph is different.i havnt used a system yet that made the ph right from the jump.i let mine swing from 5.6 to 6.1 and thats' it.
Need help
- Thread starter Kingkush325
- Start date
Heisengrow
Well-Known Member
Yeah man fuuck that.floraduo is where it's at.like i said the plant eats light not nutes.no magic nutes are gonna make your weed any better.its all about temp,humidity and the light spectrum.
People wanna believe bottled nutes are gonna give you some kind of magical wonder weed
Kingkush325
Well-Known Member
Yea me too from 5.7 to 6.2 so I should cut the rapid start completely and just focus on the base nutrients
Kingkush325
Well-Known Member
So floraduo,cal mag is all I need
Heisengrow
Well-Known Member
Yeah.its all I use and all u need.start adding liquid koolbloom after the plants start to crown in flowering.2 ML per gallon after you get everything set.around week 4 or 5 add 4 ML per gallon of liquid koolbloom and cut part A down to 1 ML per gal.last 2 weeks use dry koolbloom only and you will see them double in size in 2 weeks.
Remember the part A will add way more to ppm than part B.also only do 2 to 1 first 10 days than 1 to 1 till the plants start to show hairs or your gonna get phosphorus issues.
Alot of guys just run 1 to 1 part A and B till flower.
Also don't switch to 2 to 1 until after the stretch.plants need the nitrogen to grow during stretch.
After the stretch cut back on the nitrogen.1 part A to 2 parts B and start adding the koolbloom and you'l see a significant difference.
This is the way I've perfected it and always pull a serious haul..
Google "perfecting Scott's OG DWC." And you'l find my journal.
Kingkush325
Well-Known Member
Y
You know what bro I'm going to seriously look into what you are teaching me as soon as I finish this botanicare nutrients I will go flora duo what all do I need literally a+b, cal mag,liquid koolbloom, and dry kool bloom ? That's all
Heisengrow
Well-Known Member
That' it man.i use to run floralicious+ and rapid start but cut them out and actually noticed better looking roots and healthier looking plants.at most I would run rapid start first 2 weeks and that's it. Floralicious was just gunk in a bottle.humic acids but really man I did not see any drop in quality after I cut it out.my roots stay super clean now and plants grow like fukin crazy
Kingkush325
Well-Known Member
Do you use anything like hydroguard to keep roots healthy ?
Heisengrow
Well-Known Member
Absolutely.I also have water chillers but i found that all it takes is some hydro herpes to get in there and even with cool water shit can still go bad.The hydroguard is some nice shit.I run recirculating systems i built that fit my specific needs.I get all the parts from Uline and shit is kick ass man.recirculating with a control bucket and an added reservoir that keeps everything topped off.I always monitor the top off res and system PPM to give me an idea of whats being put in and whats being taken up.the shit is stupid easy once you get it all dialed in.I dont fuck around.I follow a specific set of rules and everything always goes smooth.
My formula might not work for you as yours might not work for me because temperature and humidity and light intensity play a huge role.Like when i switched from HPS to CMH on my scotts OG clone it put a bigger demand on Calmag.I had never had a calmag issue before but the CMH and co2 were really making my plants want it.under HPS 4ML per gallon was fine but under CMH i was up to 7 mL per gallon in the 6th week of flower.You have to watch your plants and they will tell you what they need.The formulas are a guideline.ALWAYS watch the new growth.if all the new leaves are coming out skinny and weird looking up the nutes.rust spots up the calmag.purple stems and underside of leaves purple,up the phosphorous,But also sometimes it can be as simple as PH out of range.If the PH is to high you will get calmag issues.You need to be in the correct range for each nutrient.I find 5.8 to be the sweet spot and normally hold it around there.If my PH is drifting upwards ill PH down to 5.4 and let it drift up for a few days.If its drifting downward ill ph up to 6.1 and let it drift down.If its dropping to fast and your PPM is rising your roots are fucked up and you need to check for root issues.But also CO2 and airstones can cause your water to become acidic.it happens.All this shit plays a role man and comes from experience.
Here is a 12 bucket system i built just for sexing and phenohunting 12 pack regular seeds.I never have to lift the plants unless i want to check the roots.
These are almost 3 weeks old
Some roots on a 4 week old plant in flower
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