NEED HELP, What is happening to my leaves??

matt7835706

Well-Known Member
3 days ago I took my nutes from 600ppm to 1200 ppm and lifted my light 12" and turned it up to 1000watts, I also added 250 ml of 3% h202 and change my water timer to 5 miuntes on for every hour off and heres what I got after one light cycle. BUT only on one of two plants

Day 1 of leaf damage
pp.jpg


After finding the damage I dropped the 800ppm and gave a quick 5.7ph pure water flush to both plants rockwool and resumed the pump feed.


Day 2 of leaf damage
day 2.jpgday 2 b.jpgday two ok.jpg

the first two pic's are of the original girl with the leaf damage, which has now spread to the second set of leaves. The third picture is the other girl which is now showing yellowing or bleaching in her low fan leaves.

My temps have always been high in the room 28-32 but this has just taken hold since the nute change. Next thing to consider is the nute are probably 2 years old, advanced sensi grow A & B and B-52 was all that was used and ph down.

This morning i took drastic action and change the rez to straight ph pure water and opened up the feed cylce to 5 min every 1 1/2 hour.

Can anyone please tell me if there is somthing I may be missing, can't see bugs. The other thing is my res temp is between 17-23, maybe a problem?? P.H MAYBE??? Maybe my meter is screwed, never seen a ph damage before so I dont know??

Please if you have any fact based information please share it!!

thanks in advance!!
M
 

JCashman

Well-Known Member
it doesn't look like nute burn to me. continue with pure PH'd water for now and cut off any leafs that are 50% damaged or more. the plant should bounce back.
 

matt7835706

Well-Known Member
I'm strugging with the nute burn diagnosis also, it just is to spotty, looks like sprinkled cinnomon, and only on one plant, same res same strain??
 

infinitihigh

Active Member
they look to small to be at 1000 ppm. dude mine are like 1.5 ft and I just started giving them 1,200 ppm at transition stage to 12/12. with the size of your plant you should be at like150-300 ppm. I got the 5 gallon DWC setup
 

matt7835706

Well-Known Member
they look to small to be at 1000 ppm. dude mine are like 1.5 ft and I just started giving them 1,200 ppm at transition stage to 12/12. with the size of your plant you should be at like150-300 ppm. I got the 5 gallon DWC setup
My tap water is 370ppm so that could be subtracted out of the 1200ppm, 830ppm off nutes, like I said I cut it right off.
 

Dr Kynes

Well-Known Member
That looks like rose rust fungus from the pics.

Look at the underside of the leaves. Is there a bump underneath matching the top damage?

If you rub the leaf with your thumb do you get a dusty schmutz on your fingers?

Is your humidity higher than 60%?

Do you have roses in the yard or next door?

Are there piles of autumn leaves left around your neighborhood through the winter?

Are there any thick damp undergrowth patches near your place?

Too many yes answers and its gonna be rose rust.

Lower the humidity, use sulphur or copper antifungals before the flowering cycle begins (if it gets in the buds its deadly)

You may have to do a fungus scrub after these plants either mature or fail.
 

matt7835706

Well-Known Member
Humitity is 50 % and no there is no damage in the bottoms of the leaves? Nothing comes off when rubbed????

Just looked up rose rust, similar on the top but the underside of the leaves are completly unaffected
 

CanBud

Well-Known Member
Perhaps the 1000w light was a bit of a shock along with the increase in nutrient levels.....just my 2 cents and Im no expert:joint:
 

jessy koons

New Member
The brown spotting is probably calcium deficiency. Calcium can be unavailable to the plant if the Ph is too low. If it is a calcium deficiency then the damaged leaves won't recover but new leaves will begin to look normal if you correct it. Perhaps a cal-mag supplement would help. Good luck
 

Dr Kynes

Well-Known Member
Humitity is 50 % and no there is no damage in the bottoms of the leaves? Nothing comes off when rubbed????

Just looked up rose rust, similar on the top but the underside of the leaves are completly unaffected
I am glad it's not rose rust, that shit is persistent like herpes. In that case probably the light is too powerful and they got a lil sunburn. back the light off to around 36inches or a meter, till the lil guys are like on their 4th node. up till then the little seedlings would be protected by undergrowth before they pop their heads up into the early spring sunlight. you got scorching summer light goin on with those metal halides.
 

matt7835706

Well-Known Member
Update

So after all that i still have not pinned down what damaged the leaves with the spots but I am finally seeing some growth again!!

I couldn't log on yesterday because of a virus on the site but here are yesterdays picks
pp1 23.jpgpp11 23.jpgpp 2 23.jpgpp 23.jpg

Todays pic's
pp24.jpgpp 1 24.jpg
 

matt7835706

Well-Known Member
I'm wondering if the tap water im using is the problem, has anyone ever ran into that before? I calibrated my ph meter and they are are in a week feed cycle but it still looks N def to me ?? maybe I got lock out somehow??
 

Dr Kynes

Well-Known Member
pinch off the yellowed leaves. they will only rob your plants of vitality and harbour disease. also, take a few pics under a normal white light, so we can judge the color better. the older leaves look very yellow, which is usually a nitrogen deficiency, but can also happen if you overdose your plants with nitrogen, or give them way too much light.


fill out the checklist below so we can get a better view of the issues

details of grow type (pots full of coco on a timed drip, recirculating top drip, dwc, flood/drain, drain to waste or whatever)

wattage and type of lights used, and their distance from plant tops

temp

rel.humidity

ph of reservoir

nutrient type/brand, amount used/gal and when was it last changed


your tap water isnt likely a problem unless its really nasty, and tastes sour, soapy or bitter. if your water was so fucked up as to poison your plants, you would prefer your own piss to drinking city water
 

Sensibowl

Active Member
Yeah, it sounds like folks have steered you in the right direction.

When in doubt with your grow, check the basics first, then check your plants to make sure you're not dealing with a pesky pest.

Personally, I use less of AN than the bottles say - at least with the nutrients you're using. Since switching to pH Perfect, I haven't found that to be the right advice.

You gotta watch your MMJ plants carefully so you get the results you want, but that's pretty common sense.
 
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