Need help identifying issue in multi strain grow [soil]

So I'm running a multi strain grow in pure 100% soil and I'm 3 weeks into veg, however, 3 out 5 plants have gotten a few strange issues (with the remaining two being absolutely perfect), I'll post some pictures below;

Pictures 1-2 are of a Kali Mist, I can't quite identify the spots at all.
Pictures 3-4 are of a OG#18, the troublechild, picture 3 is a bit bad but it shows that the very edge of a few leaves have started to get really bleached.
Picture 5 is of a C99, the best of the bunch, who's been great so far but man, those fan leaves shouldn't be almost dead.

My guesses are;
#1-2 Calcium or Potassium lockout?
#3-4 Zinc lockout or possible "overfeeding b y too good soil" and having the OG #18 being a cheeky little bastard?
#5 ...Maybe it ran out of neutrients? (C99, pineapple pheno)

1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg 5.jpg

Alright, rollitup, if you've got any clue what this could be, please do tell, because I've ran out of options, I'm going to check the runoff but I suspect it'll be good.

Notes*
RH is 25% roughly.
400W HPS, the canopy is far from the lightsource.
Temperatures are not optimal, but not high either.
No neutrients have been used.
Watering have been strict but fair, tapwater is PH 7.5-8.
Runoff water not tested.
No pests have been found, yet.
 

The Milk

Active Member
Wrinkled leaves,slight intervenial chlrosis visible, I think a slight flush with light CalMag soulution would fix this. I like "Magical" from Technaflora.

When I have issues like this I flush my medium lightly with like 5.0 mls (1 teaspoon) of Magical per gal. of ph'd water,then test my run off for ph issues.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Ca/Mg def.
pH problems
P def.
Micro nute def. (several)
I might venture that problem lies in your SOIL....Tell me, just what IS "pure 100% soil"? Who made it and whats in it?

There is no added lime so you have pH and Ca problems.
IF there is any available Mg and P....The uptake is being effected by the pH being out of the zone.
Lack of "rock dust or rock phosphate" has the minerals lacking (micro's). This also gives the living bios in the soil a "home". Your soil looks rather dead and used up......no myco's.
No Perlite so bad air intake to the soil....bad "breathability"

To repair is going to be,,,well, tough.....
We do some damage control by adding a Ca/Mg....That will help us get a grip on the pH..Then we need to add some nutrition in the area's that we need and to add a supplement or 2 to help other things down the road...The rest should be completed for the long term by a transplant into the proper balanced and amended soil....

Crush up as fine as you can get them, 4 egg shells. Soak this in a gallon of water for 48hrs.
To this water add 5ml of a commercial Ca/Mg ( I would suggest G&H CALiMAGic for the extra Iron you need too).
Add 2.5ml Silica (Protekt from DynaGro or Armor Si from G&H).
5ml of ORCHID-PRO from Dyna-Gro....I know this sounds "odd". BUT, the 7-8-6 is going to give you the bump in P and K along with a nice group of trace elements that this needs right now. Use only ONCE and save the bottle for the future, or grow Orchids like I do (I love them).
20ml of "Sweet" by Bionicare OR add 1 tsp of Epsom salts to the gallon of water.
To start with 5ml Kelp extract or a dry kelp powder.....More micro's and Humic's with Fulvic's too.
Lastly, and you will be using this for awhile....Get some HESI "Power Clean" for your living Mico's (bio's for the soil). Why this one? Because it contains a WIDE variety of the Micro nutes you need and will help the soil out.....If you can spend the $,,,,,use another "Zyme" product too..Zyme by Cyco or Canna Zyme or Hygrozyme ....Just get that in there to help out with the pH balance.

Mix this all up real good and pH to 6.5 and water your plants to run through......Be sure to give each one a share of the egg shells spread out on the soil surface.

This will get that soil going in the right way and help the balance of the pH.....

Now get a GOOD organic soil.
POTTERS GOLD
Dr. EARTH'S POTting SOIL Etc. and transplant in around 7-10 days after you have done the above.

Do you NEED to do all the above,,,,,No,,,,,,But it will supply the best results the fastest and save the quality for a finish plant of 3-4+ ft tall at harvest.

Good Luck
 
Hello everyone and thanks for all the replies, I suppose I should've seen cal/mag deficiencies and I suppose it's time to clarify on a few things

I'm not American and have a hard time getting a lot of the products suggested here, and it's a question more of time than anything. (Think two weeks to get most lines of neutrients)

While I can't name the soil directly (Would give away a bit too much), but I can tell you it's counted in my local country to be the best available and it's organic.

I do however have a Hesi soil starter kit available (For reference https://www.hydroculture.co.uk/hesi-starter-kits ) and I think it's more likely that it's a lockout of neutrients from shitty pH (I mean, a "casual" 7.5 to 8 in the tapwater?) than a lack of them, that said, bring out ze powerzyme, tnt complex and supervit, I know Hesi's products are supposed to stabilize the pH of water to pretty much an exact 7, I wonder if that'll be enough though. (No seriously, will it be enough? And can I overcome their pH stabilization to get it lower with something I can my hands on pretty quickly?)

Now this is the part where I'm going to go "shit", the plants are already in their final pots, and there is zero chance of being able to swap it, they're rooted to hell and back already and bigger size pots are out of the question.

Either way, thanks for the help, I now gotta figure out if I can do all this with the Hesi kit at hand and what I can buy in a local grocery store, if there are any more suggestions and/or ideas from what I just posted, feel free to give me a hand!

Truely, thank you guys for helping out.
 
Update: Hesi claims that their bloom complex does the following "The pH level of the feeding water is corrected to a slightly acidic value. The plant can absorb all the administered nutrients optimally around a slightly acidic value" which seems to me indicate it'll be adjusted towards 6-6.5, so I've mixed up 10L of water with SuperVit, TNT Complex and Bloom Complex, the powerzyme might've expired as there where small chunks of... whatever in it so I skipped it for now.

Anyway, mixed it all up, put it in a dark enviorment (wouldn't want algea now would we?) and I'm going to let it rest for a day or so before watering with it (after pH testing of course), however since I can't water every time with neutrients I'll have to figure out a way to lower the pH of my tap water some other way.
 

The Milk

Active Member
lemon juice can be used to lower ph if you have no other means... a quick google search should be of some help
 

The Milk

Active Member
I just wanted to let him know about the lemon juice because he stated that he would need to lower the ph of his tap,and he could get stuff at a local grocery store.. Of course you could use ele. sulfer, among a vast list of other products.

Another great grocery store pickup is Blackstrap Molasses It has magnesium,potassium,and other trace elements. I have my bottle back in my grow but honestly I don't feel like getting up right now to look... I'll get back to you...
 
Alright friends, I'm back to answer a few questions and give some updates;

Q: where's the perlite? A: Used it in previous grows, would've done so again had it not been for the fact I can't access it at the moment, and it wouldn't do any good due to the fact the plants are already in their final transplant, and supersizing the pots isn't really an option due to size constraints.

Q: water regimen A: they are all in 3G pots more or less which means they are fed every other day.

Q: nute schedule A: No nutes applied yet, they will however get some today or tomorrow (50% strength Hesi soil)

Q: temps A: 80f/27c

Q: humidity A: 25% RH, was said earlier

Q: whole plant pic A: Can't really provide it at the moment, gotta wait some time to get one, needless to say the damage in the picture I've demonstrated is purely on the lowest fan leaves at the moment and the rest of the plants are more or less unaffected, they're still growing good too, but I want to get infront of this rather than behind it.

The Milk: I've gotten my hands on some GH dry pH down, I suppose it's for hydro but I can use it to lower the pH of the regular non nute feeding water.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Egg shells or 1 1/2 tsp milk powder will work for the Ca.
Epsom salts for Mg and S.
Hesi is GOOD stuff and the Power Zyme has not "turned". Still good. The ROOTS has good micro nutrients too.
TNT is Veg base and Bloom Complex is Bloom base......I wouldn't combine.....But if you did...only do that use once that way and skip both for a week.

Your on it.....

"Cheeky bastard" told me your from the UK.
 
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