Need help diagnosing problem :)

Okay so before I made this thread i had a good look through plant diagnosis guides and all that but I cant come to a conclusion as to why my plants are having problems.

I have 4 plants that im growing because Im practicing growing them to 4 weeks old so that in the next outdoors season ( Southern hemisphere) I can start them indoors and put them out once they're 4 weeks old with no problems. Im practicing on some Hermie seeds that Ive got so that when I do the seeds I got online, I don't screw it up. By the way im just using a box because I figured it wouldn't matter since they'd only be inside for 4 weeks.



- So first of all they are just under 3.5 weeks old since they sprouted.
- They aren't being fed yet.
- They're under a 130w CFL with a small fan on them constantly.
- They're being watered every 2 - 3 days and when the soil is getting close to being dry a couple of inches down.
- I dont have a PH reader but im usung bottled water left out for 24 hours and it says the PH is 6.5 on the bottle.
(Note: I previously used the same type of water to raise a plant with no problems)
- The soil is so cheap stuff I got from a local store/ Also note I have previously started a plant in this soil with no problems.
- The temps fluctuate between 70 - 85 maybe 90f.
- RH No idea
- Light schedule is 18/6

Heres some pictures Im not sure what the rust is. The first two plants are the best ones that have minimal rust sorta shit and the two others are the least best and have been runty from day one. The plant with all the burnt rusty shit was the most runty one and seems to be affected the most.


Plant #1





Plant #2 The least damaged one.





Plant #3 The worst one. Its been odd colored since the start, it like the chlorophyll is screwed in these last two plants or something.





Plant #4 dry curled sorta leaves at the bottom but the other leaves are fine?




Cheers everyone

I'm going to take a stab at a couple things here...

PH is off...

The soil is misbalanced. You can see purple leaf stalks, but solid green growth. Nitrogen is good or you wouldn't get green growth, Potash or Phosphorous is being locked out, (purple stems)..

So I am going to assume that the soil is heavy in nitrogen, weak in P and K. The PH is balanced enough for Nitrogen to run hot, and P and K, NOT.

They're hungry, feed them Looks like Cal/mag to me.

heat damage

BenFranklin said:

I'm going to take a stab at a couple things here...

PH is off...

The soil is misbalanced. You can see purple leaf stalks, but solid green growth. Nitrogen is good or you wouldn't get green growth, Potash or Phosphorous is being locked out, (purple stems)..

So I am going to assume that the soil is heavy in nitrogen, weak in P and K. The PH is balanced enough for Nitrogen to run hot, and P and K, NOT.

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Thanks for the help man I just always read people saying don't feed your plants until thyre 4 weeks oldish but screw that im listening to you guys and im gonna feed them 1/4 strength? Ill feed them when I next water with liquid ferts.

Also do you have a recommendation for a PH tester?

Mr.Head said:

They're hungry, feed them Looks like Cal/mag to me.

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Thanks dia I think your right with the cal/mag I might invest in some cal/mag

Letstrip said:

Thanks dia I think your right with the cal/mag I might invest in some cal/mag

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I kind of disagree with the Cal-Mag, it's much to young, Cal-Mag deficiencies tend to hit during flowering more than seedling stage or early vegging. I won't say that it's IMPOSSIBLE. As anytime I ever say that, it bites me in the ass, lol!

The ONLY tester I recommend is the Hanna TDS/EC/PH tester.. It's EXPENSIVE! but next to my light source, it's ONE of the most important tools in my arsenal and worth every penny...

I can not stress that part enough, it's WORTH EVERY PENNY. It completely removes guess work.

Somewhere there is a chart on the internet, that shows you how high or low your TDS(total dissolved solids, which is a measure of your fertilizers) should read through out it's life, for Hydro, for example, it would range from 200-400 for seedlings, on up to 1800 for full blooming plants.

It also measures EC, which is electrical conductivity between your nutrient solution and your roots. Which is the "engine" or "bridge" that provides the "energy" or "linkage" necessary between the nutrients and roots to feed the plant.

BenFranklin said:

I kind of disagree with the Cal-Mag, it's much to young, Cal-Mag deficiencies tend to hit during flowering more than seedling stage or early vegging. I won't say that it's IMPOSSIBLE. As anytime I ever say that, it bites me in the ass, lol!

The ONLY tester I recommend is the Hanna TDS/EC/PH tester.. It's EXPENSIVE! but next to my light source, it's ONE of the most important tools in my arsenal and worth every penny...

I can not stress that part enough, it's WORTH EVERY PENNY. It completely removes guess work.

Somewhere there is a chart on the internet, that shows you how high or low your TDS(total dissolved solids, which is a measure of your fertilizers) should read through out it's life, for Hydro, for example, it would range from 200-400 for seedlings, on up to 1800 for full blooming plants.

It also measures EC, which is electrical conductivity between your nutrient solution and your roots. Which is the "engine" or "bridge" that provides the "energy" or "linkage" necessary between the nutrients and roots to feed the plant.

Click to expand...

Thats man I had a look at that tester and it looks good itd be a great investment. Ill try to have a look for that chart aswell!
I just fed them some liquid nutes and they love it by the looks of things.

Just thought Id put some progress pictures up. So basically ive started feeding them and not alot more rust has come through on the new growth only a little and it seems to have slowed down which is good. All the new growth looks nice and healthy! Hopefully Ill be giving them a foiler feed of cal/mag sometime soon and when I repot them im going to add some dolomite lime to the soil to prevent further cal/mag problems and maybe some root blast pellts which is 2.1.2 but im not sure yet.

Unfortunately though I have to put these outside (even though its the wrong time of year) because they were just practice Hermie seed testers before i start my proper seeds indoors for outdoors that I brought online.
I could either kill them or put them outside and see what happens. My thoughts are theyl either flower, grow really slow or just die from the cold so I probably will put them outside and even if they dont make it It would be nice if they preflowered so I could see the sex because these seeds were from a male gone hermie.

Any thoughts guys? Also Im pretty sure they need re potting and these pictures were taken on Tuesday night. They're about 4.5 weeks old roughly now.

This one is the really strechy one, it seriously wont stop stretching! I think its more of a sativa pheno.




This is the most mutant one that's looked crappy from day one however the new growth looks healthy.




This is defiantly the more shorter indica sort of pheno and probably the most vigorous in terms of busyness.

And last but not least this one has also looked odd since day one.

Repot into bigger pot. after a few days , start a feeding regiment. If you want to save these plants do that.

Diabolical666 said:

Repot into bigger pot. after a few days , start a feeding regiment. If you want to save these plants do that.

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Thanks mate im repotting them tomorrow and they've started being fed.

I really appolagies about this, because I cant make new blog. I regeistered today and do this because I have problem and I need Help!
I growin 8n plants calls Tutankhamon not autoflowering, all seeds are feminised. I growin in the greenhouse from seed now are 30days from seed. And after yesterday I carry my plants indoor and put in the dark place. 100% darkness on 24 hours. And yesterday I see my new leaves are like yellow or white collor make. Collor comes from leaves centre not from leafs ends. ANd the smallest leafes are like deform. And big leafs under leaves are litle bit yellowing but yellowing keeps but slowly. The leaf veins looks normals white or litle bit yellow but not green.
I start growing all mix soil, and fertilizet with Plagron alga grow - N-P-K 6-10-8
Now I replanted thats was yestarday I use cheapest soil, some flower soil I dont know ectually. But its peat I use just peat.
I live in United Kingdom. Here are very humidity and the greenhouse I allways keep close. Just one window is open. because I cultivate in garden in city centre. I have neighbours. And I dont want to show them my strains.
I dont watering often, because there are cary wet and soil are still wet after 4 days after watering. I just fertilize every 4 day (2 days per week) 3ml on 1litre water. i use tap water very clean lime but is hlorofil litle bit.
yesterday when i see my new leaves yellowed some strains are yellow some white. and deformed the last leaves (smallest)
then I watered leaves with alga grow fertilizer. Meybe need more Nitrogen or Phosphorus. Today I watered leaves with Bio bloom fertilizer N-P-K 2-7-4 with 2ml on 1litre water
There are more phosphorus.
Today I try to find reason for my problem and I find 6 rasons.
1. Over Watering - http://www.growweedeasy.com/overwatering-cannabis
Ok new leafs can be yellowed and deformated like I have but big leaves stay normal not like be over watering!
2. Sulfur Deficiency - http://www.growweedeasy.com/sulfur-deficiency-cannabis looks something likewise but not really, because there are show leaves yellowed also in under and midle big ones. But I yellowed just small leaves and first and second under leaves.
3. Zinc Deficiency - http://www.growweedeasy.com/zinc-deficiency-cannabis in pictures where are zinc deficiency looks like my plants except leave veins.
4. Iron Deficiency - http://www.growweedeasy.com/iron-deficiency-cannabis I dont know about iron deficiency. new leaves start yellowed but diferent, not like me.
5. Miscellaneous Sick Plant Troubles - This picture is caused by temprature changing from cold to warm, cold nights and warm days.
Some varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could.
This pic are not my
I find this today and meybe. Ofcorse In inside are warm but was in darkness more than 24hours meybe now is in sun light thats the problem. I dont know!
6. Phosphorus - I somewhere read, Phosphorus deficiency can make deformated new leaves, but thats all other sympthoms are diferent. The leaf stalks should to be purple but I have normal green.
7. Nitrogen - is in possible to start young leaves stay yellowed? I now old leaves start yellowed I yellowed old leaves also but not fast.
Here are pictures I take this 2 hours ago

here is more pics

I had a magnesium deficiency early on in veg, and it looked a lot like what's in your pics. You can try a teaspoon of epson salts per gallon of water every time you water your plants. This will help if that is the problem. Here is a link to my old grow journal page with the deficiency pics.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/stoney-mcfrieds-diary-of-a-level-two-plant-slayer-a-grow-journal.165460/page-4
Good luck.

You need replanting thats way leaves dont stay normal, because no roots in space. About other symptoms - brown color on leaf can got from pottasium deficite or phosphorus. magnesium cannot be, then that can see in leave veins are dark green and leave edges are start yellowed. Meybe its Nitrogen. red (purple) Stalks I see! This can be when are Nitrogen or Phosphorus deficite. But then usualy also yellowed under big leafs. Problems settle are easy but hard to diagnose

Maris said:

You need replanting thats way leaves dont stay normal, because no roots in space. About other symptoms - brown color on leaf can got from pottasium deficite or phosphorus. magnesium cannot be, then that can see in leave veins are dark green and leave edges are start yellowed. Meybe its Nitrogen. red (purple) Stalks I see! This can be when are Nitrogen or Phosphorus deficite. But then usualy also yellowed under big leafs. Problems settle are easy but hard to diagnose

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Youre giving them too much water, back off so it will dry out faster. Since youre watering so much your feeding too much...you have to give it enough water to dry out by feeding time and one or two watering inbetween feedings.You are overloading them with nitrogen which in return will causing other nutrient lock outs causing deficiencies

Diabolical666
this is about my pictures or letstrip pics?
If you talk about my plants, meybe you right I dont know really how looks like when are to much nutrients. This is first time when I growing organic. Usualy I dont use many nutrients, thats couse I know about nutrients deficiency but not all. maybe you right its too much Nitrogen. But my fertilizer are N-P-K 6-10-8 Nitrogen is lower. But if I have too much Nitrogen I can start use Bio bloom N-P-K 2-7-4. Anyway I should to start with bio bloom because in the next 7 days my plants should to start flowering.
And about over waterd i dont know. When I growed before in 4litres about 1 gallon pot I watered half litre every 4 day. And now are plastic bags with 30 litre soil and now I start give 1 litre water per one plant. But there are too wet and high humidity and no wind. bad circulate air in greenhouse. But I can not nothing to do. I growing in garden and I live in city centre. Roof is light-permeable, but sides are coated with white film, which cannot be seen inside. And one small window are opened about 20cm x 20cm size.

Maris our plants are around the same size.

Also thanks for the help guys! And what maris said are you talking to me or him haha

I repotted them today and sure enough... root bound but healthy?
The new soil is a mix of compost, dolmite lime, garden soil (Good stuff were I live) and a bit of compost. Im gonna drill more drainage holes in the new pots aswell.

Prrrrreeettty roots sir. Has that compost been cooking awhile? Raw compost can cause uber damage