Need Advice on my Best Method of Ventilation.

Hello friends, well I have been doing tons of research and have some questions for people with experience in exhaust/vent/ducting a room.

I have looked into many other threads and gotten many good ideas on how people use a variety of methods on venting a room/tent. Though as this will be my first attempt at it I do not want to go ahead and set something up my way & later have someone who knows what they are doing tell me I did it all wrong, so I will provide some info on the area I am working with to give you an idea on the goals that need to be achieved.

10width x 8 length x 8 height. Which is 80 square ft & 640 Cubic feet. 2 of the walls were built by 2x4"s and put into a corner of a garage to create a room, with one main insulated wall (bedroom behind it) & on the other wall there is a door that leads to outside, also next to the door is a vent leading to the outside.

Sorry for going on & on.. this leads up to where I am stuck.

10x8room 640 cubic feet. 2x 600w 6"inch aircooled hoods

Question.. .
Should I, buy 3x inline fans @ 500cfm. *First* Fan to intake from vent leading to outside then into a Wye Splitter, 1 end leading into vent my 2x 600w, other to push fresh air into room. *2nd*Inline fan to put @ end of lights to Give more Pull & cooling of my hoods. *3rd* Inline Fan towards ceiling pulling air out of room through a carbon filter.


My idea behind this was that, I could put all 3x Inline fans on speed controllers so that I can have it on full blast to cool the room and exchange air as best I can, also to turn the speed on low when its colder outside & the intake air is also cooler.. thus causing everything to move slower & keep more heat in from the lights & such. Also, with 500cfm intake cut in half by a Wye splitter intake would be Half right? & my carbon exhaust would still be around 500cfm, creating negative pressure?(when room is nearly sealed.)




UGHHH I am so confused, I cannot jump right into a sealed room w/ co2 & all..but plan on working my way up.
Will have more questions, just trying to keep this rant reasonable & not scare ppl off.


I was hoping to use $3-500 on venting this room, & another $500ish on decent AC & Dehumidifier.

Damnit.. .it is alot longer than I thought.. Plz do not run off!

I need help. :[

It is a hobby & my goal by the end of this year is to have put a good 2-3k into this room. *Efficient* Co2, AC & Dehumid are not cheap. :[ & I want to go all out.

Also ANY advice or reviews on good Portable AC units? Without the dehumidification option, I want to one day get a Fancy Shmancy Co2 Controller about 800 Bucks.. & I want a separate AC and Dehumid to feel special & in control. <3

going to cry myself tosleep. Ttys ! <3

View attachment 2022048 heat recovery system. i used to install theese in houses not to long ago, plastic ducting square/round sum flex and punka louvres its easy. and if you got the money, swap the filters for carbon filters and use it to heat up a few rooms aswell as sum extra bathroom/kitchen extract.............

hmm, i have seen some folk, use a portable air conditioner to blow air, via ducting through the air cooled lights as the inline fan sucks at the other end,

i do not think you will need 3 fans for just 2x 600w .. your space 10x8x8 is quite big . larger than mine, and i am running 3x600w with 1 fan, although its not in a tent
are the outside temps very hot where you are ?
what size are these inline fans ? i favor the 8 inch ones myself for power to noise ratio,

What climate are you in? I feel like you are getting too many fans. Like what is the temps outside during the year, and if you are going to use AC, then you probably don't want that outside air at all. Is this the layout you are working with?

one of those fans is enough to cool your lights, then have one more attached to your carbon filter, use a passive intake. so go duct from outside room>light>duct to fan>back out room, or place the fan outside of room and have it suck through both hoods then out of garage. because you are using air cooled hoods and most of the heat is being pulled out of room b4 its got a chance to heat it up to much, then the one 500 cfm fan should be more than enough for the filter and what ever small amount of heat is left, just my opinion.

Click the link in my sig. Think it's the last page. That's a updated vidio of cooling system. Only thing I'm going to change is upgrading to hard ducts to limit restriction. And still keep the flex ducts to the lights.

Oh my, thanks for the replies. ! . & thank you warlock I am going to check that out.

roidrage152 said:

View attachment 2022847What climate are you in? I feel like you are getting too many fans. Like what is the temps outside during the year, and if you are going to use AC, then you probably don't want that outside air at all. Is this the layout you are working with?

Click to expand...

Creepy how dead on that pic is.. .but yes that is it, 10ft is along bedroom wall though.. 8ft along outside wall.

Yes this is exactly how I got confused. Do I need ac with alot of venting? and such. Climate is Southern Cali, My fear is the summer & sucking in 90degree + air into the vents. As of right now the weather is not a problem, but I want to prepare.

Outside temps now are low & at night high 30s-40s..Though I am not having an issue with temps right now..also not running vent which is why. The weather will be getting mild here soon, Then HOT in the SUMMER.

My main concern is Long Run Use, trying to think ahead & avoid trouble in Summertime. I will most likely run lights @ night off during day to combat this, but still.. I feel with outside Air being so hot then would be hard to vent it into my room.

I am no expert but if I were you I would make sure I had some kind of passive intake that can easily be sealed up (ie: window) and make sure the venting for the lights is completely separate from the rest of the room. Run some cool tubes or whatever hoods you have. I would opt for cool tubes and go vertical if I were you, but you probably have already invested in what you're trying to do and it might require some more adjustment.

I'm running 1x Axial AC fan (big ass computer fan basically) on my carbon filter and it's exhausting at a good rate keeping temps reasonable (was 72-80 top to bottom of the tent last night only 1x600W for me though). If you exhaust through your carbon filter too quickly it will not work as well at masking odors, something to consider (probably you already have).

My idea on using 3x 500cfm 6" fans w/ speed controller was that I could simply exchange the air as much as possible & with a couple wall mounted fans that would help with venting in hot summer air? & if @ night the air ever gets too cold, I could slow the fans down.

With what I have been reading on grow rooms it seems, if you are not in a sealed co2 room, you should be exchanging air as much as possible. But with exchanging air as much as possible it seems more difficult to control temps simply due to hotter or cooler air you are pulling in during diff times of year.

Is keeping my room @ 75degrees during summer even realistic with managing my ventilation? After I get me efficient Venting going & figure out which method would be best "cooling" wise. I plan on getting me a Dehumidifier, an AC though I am unsure how effective those will be when venting the room. I am so confused :[


I WOULD LIKE TO SEAL THE ROOM & HAVE Co2 w/ an Elaborate Climate Controller. I cannot afford the bulk of it at once, so I am starting with an open vent method to ensure I can better my results before jumping in the deep end.

roidrage152 said:

View attachment 2022847What climate are you in? I feel like you are getting too many fans. Like what is the temps outside during the year, and if you are going to use AC, then you probably don't want that outside air at all. Is this the layout you are working with?

Click to expand...

you still need the outside air m8, air conditioners just recycle air
air conditioned air becomes depleted of co2 , not good for plants, unless he is running an enrichment system

the same thing was true for people, office buildings, folk working in them were getting sick, they called it "sick building syndrome" as these people were working in air conditioned spaces that became depleted of oxygen

peace

Well, I am eventually going to get Co2 and seal everything off, leaving me with extra fans I can use to exhaust @ lights out.

But I cannot afford all that @ once right now, so I plan on getting some good fans and venting going. How could I control temps venting hot summer air in while running a portable ac, seems like a waste.. Pushing hot air in while trying to cool @ same time. Can Fans, 500cfm or more keep the room around 75degrees when it is 95 outside.. With Any Amount of Air exchange,.. is that possible.

OR fk it.. Help me with my issue @ hand and maybe I can afford the Co2 ac & controllers by summer so that wont be an issue.

My Main Question is, that if I semi-seal my room, only intake / exhaust w/ 500cfm intake fans.. provided some wall mounted fans, & Controllers for Fan Speed.. Could I control temps well enough just with the amount of fresh air I can move in & out?

If using venting & fresh air/exhaust & such.. Would it be best to not seal the room much? Along the 2x walls I built is a 1 1/2 inch gap @ top I would need to seal for an airtight setup. If I am not using co2, would it be best to leave that open?

or do I seal everything & just have some nice fans pumping air in / out.

No well maybe! I sealed my room and added a intake fan as well as a scrubbing fan and a cooling fan for the lights. My a/c ran all the time in the summer. Winter crop came down desided to go CGE and get ride of 1 fan. Fliped my intake around connected it to a filter set to a temp switch. Sealed off the unused hole. Added co2 tank. Didn't want to buy a ppm meter so added a timer set to 15 on 15 off. Adjusted the flow to where it read 2000 ppm when co2 was on. Need a tester for that 15 bucks. When it was off ppm droped to 1000. Now when temps got hot fan kicks on sucking everything out. But with the co2 set on the timer ppm would but at 300( normal air) so I think I'm fine. I didn't want to run co2 to the max just to give them air and keep the room sealed for smell. So if I did this from the start I wouldn't of payed for the fan 90 bucks. Extra ducting 18 bucks extra power ??bucks. Would of paid for the tank. So I would of only needed the regulator. 50 bucks on eBay. And now after that my ac runs half the time sence I'm not bringing in the hot air. Saving more money. But the down side is I needed to add a dehumidifier. This brought up my temps to 84-86 degrees and with co2 above 1000 ppm it's ok. But pay that electric and if you buy one the price of the dehumidifier. I borrowed the one I got. So it's all in the way you plan it. But I would alway seal the room. And think about if you want intake or co2.

Oh and if you go to the welding store near you. The same place your hydro store gets there tanks swapped. You could get one for 120. I mean why buy new tank when a week later you need gas and no they don't fill your tank they swap it for a full one that's been used. A tanks a tank.

I want to go all out when I get co2, I am afraid of running into issues if I try to start off big by sealing my room.. then not know exactly keep everything in check.. Which is why I am trying to build up to that, starting with my ventilation. I can always close holes later & use fans for something else.

ventihilation is A difficult one. mine is completely sealed up and on a timer i run my hoods separate and scrub the air with a filter 24/7 this attachs to a 400w mh cool tube i run a tube from filter outside grow area (against concretes wall) then back in. im only running 120 cfm fans power is reduced so air has more time to cool in tube. during the summer i just use a duct fan and vent the mh out separate(i will still have the filter going out against the wall then back in). the thing about c02 is it builds up heat a basement or place with a low ambient temp is the best place for c02 everywhere else you will be running air conditioners like crazy. and air conditions cost more elec than the lights.