Need a lil help

W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
DonTesla said:
To summarize, I do something more like:

20% COMPOST
&
40% AERATION

***********************

BTW, here's that shot during week 3, from the above post..

with the 2% kelp.. or almost 5x the norm.. very low yeilding strain here crushing it.
(Super Lemon Haze x Chernobyl - Slymer Cut)

Makes you wonder..

View attachment 4168127
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DT

Totally agree with the 40% 20% ratios, but I take a slightly different route with the kelp.

I only use Thorvin kelp meal, no liquids, extracts, or concentrates of any sort.

I start off with 1/2 to 1cup of kelp meal in the mix and have found I get better results with more frequent light applications than a heavy one at the start, but still end up with that 2-3% total. I've just found that a light top dress every couple of weeks really cuts down on any lockout issues with too much K all at once.

For sure it's more of a PITA, but sure works better for me.

Wet
 
maxamus1

maxamus1

Well-Known Member
Ok so i had to do someting so i got 8 8 qt bags of perlite and mixed in my soil also repotted my girls and cut my mix with just regular peatmoss in almost half. @DonTesla i believe tou were right about being to compacted but still wanted to cut it would rather be to light then to strong as i can top dress as needed. I still will be getting my soil tested im waiting for it to show up but i had to do somethin now.
 
Miyagismokes

Miyagismokes

Well-Known Member
maxamus1 said:
Ok so i had to do someting so i got 8 8 qt bags of perlite and mixed in my soil also repotted my girls and cut my mix with just regular peatmoss in almost half. @DonTesla i believe tou were right about being to compacted but still wanted to cut it would rather be to light then to strong as i can top dress as needed. I still will be getting my soil tested im waiting for it to show up but i had to do somethin now.
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You gotta do what you gotta do, brother. Better than watching them die.
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
maxamus1 said:
Welcome aboard grow. Hopefully we can figure this out and others having isues with mixes like ours can find our threads and get the answers they need.
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Do you know how to check for the test results? You use that bar code at this website. https://unibestinc.com/reports/

The soil test needs to sit for 5 days before they test it and they are usually timely on adding the results. I've been happy with this company so far!
 
maxamus1

maxamus1

Well-Known Member
MustangStudFarm said:
Do you know how to check for the test results? You use that bar code at this website. https://unibestinc.com/reports/

The soil test needs to sit for 5 days before they test it and they are usually timely on adding the results. I've been happy with this company so far!
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Yeah im still waiting for the test to show up but im tireed of guessing about what is wrong and figured this is a sure fire way to know how to get things going the right way.
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
maxamus1 said:
Yeah im still waiting for the test to show up but im tireed of guessing about what is wrong and figured this is a sure fire way to know how to get things going the right way.
Click to expand...
Your lucky that you didn't have to go through the whole Mehlich 3/Saturated Paste test. It cost more than the soil savvy test and it is the reason that everyone says that soil tests are not accurate! I started testing my soil back in Nov 2016 and it was such a pain trying to decipher the test results. The Mehlich 3 test has "Base saturation ratios" and it is a mathematical formula that is supposed to help you GUESS at what would be locked-out. So really, Mehlich 3/Saturated paste test is just an educated guess at what is available.
 
maxamus1

maxamus1

Well-Known Member
MustangStudFarm said:
Your lucky that you didn't have to go through the whole Mehlich 3/Saturated Paste test. It cost more than the soil savvy test and it is the reason that everyone says that soil tests are not accurate! I started testing my soil back in Nov 2016 and it was such a pain trying to decipher the test results. The Mehlich 3 test has "Base saturation ratios" and it is a mathematical formula that is supposed to help you GUESS at what would be locked-out. So really, Mehlich 3/Saturated paste test is just an educated guess at what is available.
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That sucks. right now im going into my 2nd year of soil n tired of the problems so if testing can help me get where i need to be then so be it. Im also on my 2nd soil mix my first was a super soil but think i screwed up my measurements when i cut it down and had al I'll kinds of problems. This is my first run with coots and started well but went south quick. So right now i just want a good grow in soil.
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
My biggest problem was excessive phosphorus with every mix that I made. I stopped using composted manure, fish meal, and bone meal for that reason. Now, the only P input that I use is from the crab/crustacean meal. It was Cootz that gave me the idea!

The problem with high P is that it will lock-out iron and other micro/trace elements.
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
I was confused on what a micro and trace element was. They are just used in small amounts and that is how they get the name trace or micro.

These trace elements might better be called micronutrients. Included in this group are boron, chlorine, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum and zinc. The importance of other trace elements found in plants but, as yet without any recognised function, relates to their role in animal nutrition.
 
DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Wetdog said:
DT

Totally agree with the 40% 20% ratios, but I take a slightly different route with the kelp.

I only use Thorvin kelp meal, no liquids, extracts, or concentrates of any sort.

I start off with 1/2 to 1cup of kelp meal in the mix and have found I get better results with more frequent light applications than a heavy one at the start, but still end up with that 2-3% total. I've just found that a light top dress every couple of weeks really cuts down on any lockout issues with too much K all at once.

For sure it's more of a PITA, but sure works better for me.

Wet
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Very nice... well said, my friend. Thank you for the feedback into your own experiences.. very helpful indeed.

Cheers

DT
 
DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
maxamus1 said:
Ok so i had to do someting so i got 8 8 qt bags of perlite and mixed in my soil also repotted my girls and cut my mix with just regular peatmoss in almost half. @DonTesla i believe tou were right about being to compacted but still wanted to cut it would rather be to light then to strong as i can top dress as needed. I still will be getting my soil tested im waiting for it to show up but i had to do somethin now.
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Way to take matters into your own hands and not stand by. A lesson learned is worth money in the bank. Fingers crossed for ya, bud.
DT
 
maxamus1

maxamus1

Well-Known Member
Ok guys a quick update i just got the soil test last night and will be mailing it off today. The good news is that my girls are looking better but not sure if its from the aeration or doing a Epsom salt foliar spray n water tbh i really think that the aeration is what helped the most. Once i get the results back ill post them here. I have a grow log going on these girls I'll post a link shortly if you wish to follow along.
 
maxamus1

maxamus1

Well-Known Member
Here is a link for anyone that wants to follow along with the grow. I will be posting updates about the soil as soon as i get them in here and show what modifications i make to my soil. I ordered some pumice to add to my soil as well just because i know that the perlite is going to disappear but dont think it will hurt to add but i could definitely be wrong about that.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/sf-test-run.968242/
 
W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
Just where do you feel the perlite is going to dissapear to? It's totally inert and doesn't decompose in any way.

You really should start searching for a local source of the 4cf bags of perlite. Those little bags will eat you alive in cost. Around here the 4cf bag is right at $20 and that's 120 qts for some comparison.

You WILL need to ask around. More than a few places can get it, but don't keep it in stock because it's a slow mover and takes up way too much floor/shelf space. After a couple of years I FINALLY mentioned it to the owner of the local feed & seed and he goes "No problem if you can wait one week I can order all you want from my distributor, but the truck only does weekly deliveries". So many people tried to buy what he had ordered for me he now keeps a few bags in stock.

Besides feed & seed stores, building supply stores are another. Perlite is also used as insulation in CBS construction as is vermiculite. Same deal.

Wet
 
maxamus1

maxamus1

Well-Known Member
Wetdog said:
Just where do you feel the perlite is going to dissapear to? It's totally inert and doesn't decompose in any way.

You really should start searching for a local source of the 4cf bags of perlite. Those little bags will eat you alive in cost. Around here the 4cf bag is right at $20 and that's 120 qts for some comparison.

You WILL need to ask around. More than a few places can get it, but don't keep it in stock because it's a slow mover and takes up way too much floor/shelf space. After a couple of years I FINALLY mentioned it to the owner of the local feed & seed and he goes "No problem if you can wait one week I can order all you want from my distributor, but the truck only does weekly deliveries". So many people tried to buy what he had ordered for me he now keeps a few bags in stock.

Besides feed & seed stores, building supply stores are another. Perlite is also used as insulation in CBS construction as is vermiculite. Same deal.

Wet
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I have noticed as i turn over my soil that the perlite breaks down to smaller and smaller peices not sure y but just something i have noticed. I have a shit ton of vermiculite for mushies and thought about using it but decided against it. So i picked up 5 gallons of pumice off amazon for $32 which is about what i spent on the 8 bags of perlite i got. I must admit I have never used pumice so kind of curious to see if its better then the perlite.
 
W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
Vermiculite just isn't all that good for soil mixes. It does mess with the pH, but it's biggest sin is, it just flat retains too much water. Not a good trait for a aeration amendment.

No experience with pumice for the very reason you posted, $32 for 5 gallons vs $20 for 30 gallons made it a no brainer for me. From what I've heard it's about equal to perlite for aeration, just a good bit heavier. It's local to those on the left coast and way closer in price to perlite. Something to remember when Coot goes on about it. He's in Oregon and it's ~$25 for a tractor scoop full there.

Wet
 
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