CaliRootz88
Well-Known Member
“My new light is too big!”
that’s what she said
My new light is too big!
- Thread starter Hippiechik
- Start date
that’s what she said
Herb & Suds
Well-Known Member
I bet you believe the stripper really likes ya too“My new light is too big!”
that’s what she said
CaliRootz88
Well-Known Member
I bet you believe the stripper really likes ya too
Hippiechik
Well-Known Member
farmingfisherman
Well-Known Member
Classic example of why you should measure twice and order once. 
MidnightSun72
Well-Known Member
Kind of like responding to a thread before reading it isn't it?Classic example of why you should measure twice and order once.
farmingfisherman
Well-Known Member
Guilty as charged.Kind of like responding to a thread before reading it isn't it?
farmingfisherman
Well-Known Member
You might be able to use a heat gun and slowly warm the caps to soften the glue that holds them in place. Good luck!
go go kid
Well-Known Member
instead of taking off, you could just add too it, it wont help your space situation, but the bits you glue on will stop the heat from directly touching the sides and whatever there touching.
a
looking at the top, you dont have any option to cut off by the looks of it. as mentioned allready, everything is close as can be to everything else and theres sure to be cabels in there. i wouldent risk cutting anything off, just adding some blobs of clear silicone built up, to create a bumper zone as it were.
just my 2 cents, good luck whatever you try, it will void the warante if you cut anything off,m so if it go's wrong for any reason, your fooked
a
looking at the top, you dont have any option to cut off by the looks of it. as mentioned allready, everything is close as can be to everything else and theres sure to be cabels in there. i wouldent risk cutting anything off, just adding some blobs of clear silicone built up, to create a bumper zone as it were.
just my 2 cents, good luck whatever you try, it will void the warante if you cut anything off,m so if it go's wrong for any reason, your fooked
Hippiechik
Well-Known Member
There are some cables in there, yes- I should be able to gently remove the end caps, and take a look inside tomorrow. If I cut just about a half inch off each end, it should not interfere with any of the wiring.
Just for clarity, I am talking about the two main mounting bars, and NOT the actual light bars.
If I do have to move the actual light bars, that’s not a huge problem either. The mounting brackets are just snugged down with screws, and I think it should be easy enough to drill and tap a couple of new holes to make everything fit properly.
I’ve been in communication with the manufacturer and hopefully they can send me 4 end caps. If I do it right, it will be virtually identical to the original- just a tiny bit shorter.
If for some reason I run into issues, well, just about everyone I know is some kind of aircraft metal fab or A&P or machinist.
Hippiechik
Well-Known Member
I decided to show you guys what I am talking about, rather than describe it lol
Firstly, the suspension cables that were packed with the unit were clearly made for a different model type. (Not a big deal, as it only takes a minute to cut and crimp new cables.)
Now, I took the light and tried fitting it in my closet. For safety purposes, I do not want the light bars to come in contact with my wooden doorframe, because they will get extremely hot and could be a potential fire hazard. So, I rotated the light so only the two end rails will rest against anything.
It’s still not a desirable solution, as you can plainly see the unit is not sitting level. Please note I have not plugged the unit in yet, so I have not tested it for functionality.
Firstly, the suspension cables that were packed with the unit were clearly made for a different model type. (Not a big deal, as it only takes a minute to cut and crimp new cables.)
Now, I took the light and tried fitting it in my closet. For safety purposes, I do not want the light bars to come in contact with my wooden doorframe, because they will get extremely hot and could be a potential fire hazard. So, I rotated the light so only the two end rails will rest against anything.
It’s still not a desirable solution, as you can plainly see the unit is not sitting level. Please note I have not plugged the unit in yet, so I have not tested it for functionality.
It looks like you'd need more than 1/2" off that light in that orientation. Have you tried turning the light 90 degrees? That being said if you have metal shop backing you they can alter it successfully but will it work after they touch it? That will be a call for electronics shop @raratt Although make sure it lights all diodes prior to alteration because if the light is faulty, and that can happen, it needs exchanged prior to alteration, Frankly I'd size down and use that light for another tent later (there is always another tent later). Best of luck and look forward to seeing how it turns out. Although with pot my short term memory is shit so I'll forget LOL
Hippiechik
Well-Known Member
I have not plugged the unit in yet, so I don’t know if everything is working properly.
My best guess is that the two mounting rails are hollow, with some wiring tucked inside. It really should not be difficult to knock the ends off, though the outermost light bars will likely need to be moved slightly inboard to make tolerance.
I do not want to rotate the unit 90 degrees. Doing so will place the light bars in direct press-contact with the wooden door frame, which I believe is a potential fire hazard. Those aluminum bars will get extremely hot.
Ideally I want a minimum of 1/2” clearance on all sides.
It's your light and I wish you well with the alteration, I hope it works and I'll be curious to see. I would get another light for that space and either save that light or sell it.
DeadHeadX
Well-Known Member
Just what I was thinking. Sell it and get one that fits.
When you think about it even running it on a weird angle would be better than altering the form factor, certainly easier. My canopy is always uneven enough that my lights being hung 4-6" higher on one side would make little difference LOL. The OP could even consider building a bar light with her access to a metal shop.
Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
Why not just get a 3x3 tent?
A band saw is ideal. I wouldn't worry about clearance, the aluminum bars don't get near hot enough to be a fire hazard. I'd be more concerned with the MEK.
The risk is bigger than the gain here, i don't think it's worth messing with it. The warranty would be void and if something goes south it's done..
Right now the light is sealed and probably water-resistant, but if you saw it off it's gonna be open and humidity will enter.
Personally i would keep it for another grow, maybe you buy a tent or a new closet in the future. But in my opinion it's best to sell this light and buy another light with the same money, something that will fit nicely. For example Migro Aray 4, which is a better quality product and it can be shortened if you buy the shorter brackets separately https://migrolight.com/products/migro-aray-4-140w-265w
Or even better, two Aray 2's so you can play around with different setups. It's a really nice light, runs extremely cool and it has a low hanging height if you have problems with space. It's your light but just my suggestion.
Right now the light is sealed and probably water-resistant, but if you saw it off it's gonna be open and humidity will enter.
Personally i would keep it for another grow, maybe you buy a tent or a new closet in the future. But in my opinion it's best to sell this light and buy another light with the same money, something that will fit nicely. For example Migro Aray 4, which is a better quality product and it can be shortened if you buy the shorter brackets separately https://migrolight.com/products/migro-aray-4-140w-265w
Or even better, two Aray 2's so you can play around with different setups. It's a really nice light, runs extremely cool and it has a low hanging height if you have problems with space. It's your light but just my suggestion.