My suggestion is to back way up on the nutrients as you enter flowering. Like 10-15% of suggested. They don't look bad, you can probably remove some of that underdeveloped lower foliage as it's never going to get the light or hormones needed to make them worth while in a CFL setup. Anything more than say... 6" from the top can probably go at this point without doing much damage to the plant. As you enter further into flowering the remaining energy and hormones are better focused in the remaining tissue.
Those CFL bulbs have weak casting distances (with 300w of CFL you might as well had gone with a 250 HPS for more lumens at a lower cost) so anything further than 8 to 10 inches from the bulb just isn't going to get enough energy to photosynthesize and are sorta just "place holders." Removing them will also help with the air flow around the plants which can help keep mold out and possibly save a crop.
They are kinda stretched. Including a stretch controller like Organicare Seaplex, or Emerald Triangles Humboldt's Own Bushmaster, might be a good move for you. Do some research on them but they can work to keep the internode distance short during the first two or three weeks of flowering. You can get the small bottle of seaplex for like $10, I've used it and it does work.
Take it easy on them as you go forwards with that MG fertilizer though. You'd be surprised how little nutrition the plant really needs in soil. Figure, feed, water, water, water, feed, water, water, water, feed... etc. If you see some genuine deficiency you can feed more frequently, or include just a small amount of nutrition in each watering.
