MY DIY 21st Century 'Flood' & Drain

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
An overlooked aspect of LEDs is how to position the diodes for max coverage. Enter the Merkaba, a Sacred Geometry shape that is the key to life, so why not duplicate its pattern in diodes? Why indeed. Do a Youtube search. Prepare to be awakened to hidden knowledge that just might rock yours grows beyond your wildest dreams. Too much hype? Hmmmm

Using the Merkaba shape should be a game changer. I'm not sure if the energetic increase could be measured without a rather expensive device, but I would not be at all surprised by a 30-50% increase of life force energy bathing any plants grown under it.

MMJ

Due to the recent absolute avalanche of led advancements, the plant led lighting book needs to be rewritten. Actinic value diodes are no longer necessary, plus the are too peaky. The sun is not peaky, it has a very broad spectrum of colors. But it does change color and intensity between planting and harvesting.

The new WW, and NW diodes fall very nicely within PAR + they have >95 CRI, pushing 100lm/w. Meaning fewer are needed per square ft. The combination of WW + NW covers 95%+ of PAR, AND, simplifies the assembly process. The other 5% is ~ 660-740. Some genetics like it, some don't. Being pragmatic, I say fogedaboutit

A light panel can contain as many Merkaba clusters as one wants and can afford.
Using Cree circular engines as the example each Merkaba cluster is ~ 4" diameter. Size your heat sink accordingly.

Which NM Goes Where

I think the hot ticket would be 1 NW in each center, surrounded by 6 WWs.

If the NW was a 3w diode and the WW one watt diodes, the NW could be on its' own dimmable circuit. More during veg, less during flower
 

AltarNation

Well-Known Member
Hey PF I want to know more about what you're saying but I don't have a fuckin' clue what those abbreviations mean... (NW? WW?) got a good reference for learning about the latest LED technology? I am really interested in building my own panels eventually, but need to learn more first...
 

AltarNation

Well-Known Member
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZgN1yV1ong&NR=1&feature=fvwp




I keep an open bucket of 2-3 gallons of water between speaker and back wall of my listening area. I def hear the improvement. Going to experiment with a silver bowl that will hold ~ 1 gallon

Imagine how neg sound and/or residues (chlorine, ammonia, flouride, pharmaceutical residues alter the water we drink, bath, and cook in

Wicked cool video with the water droplet... can see the double tetrahedron arising...
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Hey PF I want to know more about what you're saying but I don't have a fuckin' clue what those abbreviations mean... (NW? WW?) got a good reference for learning about the latest LED technology? I am really interested in building my own panels eventually, but need to learn more first...
I am sure you can find LED tutorials on line, at the very least from manufacturers

CW= Cool White
NW= Neutral White
WW= Warm White

Each does a damn good job of producing PAR, but CW has too much blue, which is covered by NW anyway
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Welcome. It should be a fun ride

I will get some wide board, and do my version of the Merkaba clusters. I don't have the mad skillz the led guys have, so mine will be done with ~ 8w screw bulbs, so each cluster will be ~ 50w and ~ 4900 lumens.

I have some Brand X seeds that managed to survive getting washed and dried, so will build it for them
. Not 'building' so much as assembling

Here's Youtube vid I came across today. Seems he and I linked into the same creative stream http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2iMFPiltf0
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
hmm my girlfriend would love to talk you petflora, shes all about mandalas and shit, i should let her design some led setups lol.

merkabah seems interesting, i will keep it in mind.
 

AltarNation

Well-Known Member
I am sure you can find LED tutorials on line, at the very least from manufacturers

CW= Cool White
NW= Neutral White
WW= Warm White

Each does a damn good job of producing PAR, but CW has too much blue, which is covered by NW anyway
Right, well, there's a lot of misinformation on the subject, ESPECIALLY from manufacturers. Just thought you might know a good resource for accurate information from an unbiased source. No worries, I'll figure it out elsewhere.

Thanks for explaining the three abbreviations.
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
Right, well, there's a lot of misinformation on the subject, ESPECIALLY from manufacturers. Just thought you might know a good resource for accurate information from an unbiased source. No worries, I'll figure it out elsewhere.

Thanks for explaining the three abbreviations.
he though you where aking about building them, if so pretty much any video shows you how to do that and why, how drivers work, how leds work in correspoindance, ect. the real issues arrive from design, and nobody can really teach you how to design a LED light, because you can assemble them in so many ways, im sure PF could give you the walk through, but it wouldn't be your design it would be PFs.

petfloras is not known to "spoon feed" anyways lol. but basically all it is is leds, driver, heat sink, fan and a way to mount leds.(thermal paste, screws, nuts and bolts ect)
you can power leds in a series or parallel circuits, and that depends on the driver and amt. of leds your using.
 

RainerRocks

Active Member
Right, well, there's a lot of misinformation on the subject, ESPECIALLY from manufacturers. Just thought you might know a good resource for accurate information from an unbiased source. No worries, I'll figure it out elsewhere.

Thanks for explaining the three abbreviations.

Here's a simple set-up with a great heatsink.
These awesome heatsinks which can be mounted many ways and then you can just create the space needed for the drivers by spreading out the heatsinks if you buy 2 if not just get one and mount drivers on the side.

Now all you need to do is research the LED's and what drivers to get.

I'm going with the solderless CREE's from rapidLED.com.Check out their videos on the DIY Solderless LEDS. If you want to solder than just get the solder CREE LED's.

Yep this is what I'm going to buy plus the CREE LED's also fit this heatsink.


Greatest Awesome Heatsink
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K1GWV4liq2o

RapidLED solderless CREE's.Watch video on how to wire LED's with connectors. You don't need to buy the kit.
http://www.rapidled.com/48-solderless-led-retrofit-kit/

Hope this helps :)
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Thanks for chiming in guys. It's lonely out in space.

Go back to my post #14. The pic of the fixture actually is shaped like a single Merkaba cluster. Well, it has a central bulb whereas a Merkaba does not,. I was thinking to put a crystal oscillator in the center, then I realized we only need ONE NW: 6 WW, so it fits in the center.

We know vegging needs more blue than red, so put a 3w NW in the middle, and surround with 1 w WW. If the NW is on a separate dimmable circuit, you can turn it up/down depending on Veg V Flower. Alas, that fixture is no longer available from LEDwholesalers, but, it may be elsewhere.

If you, like me, do not have the soldering skillz or the know as to how to use testing devices in case of failures, the I plan on a simple DIY using inexpensive parts from Lowes/HD. Simply mount them to a properly wide board using that fixture design as your template; simply duplicate or multiply 'clusters' accordingly.

(see page 7, post #68 for how simple it can be)

Keep in mind typical led replacement screw bulbs are ~ 3" d whereas the PAR bulbs are a lot bigger.

If you have the skillz, then Makersmark, RapidLED... can hook you up, BUT, the heat sink needs to be sized properly to create accurate Merkabas. I saw a YT video from a guy building a long Makersmark; he unknowingly arranged his clusters in a elongated Merkaba. Also his diode nms were not what I would use
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Hey PF I want to know more about what you're saying but I don't have a fuckin' clue what those abbreviations mean... (NW? WW?) got a good reference for learning about the latest LED technology? I am really interested in building my own panels eventually, but need to learn more first...

Go to Cree website to see what, and why diodes are getting better and better. The new gen 1w diode does the work of 2-3 2 yo designs
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
I wasn't. Thanks.... AND they are shaped like Merkaba!

Great prices, BUT, sigh, no NW or WW diodes

This is The Seed of Life Merkaba. Not sure a didode in the center is needed, but a bit of NW (or maybe CW) could be beneficial for early veg. That would be ~ 17%, but your pheno may like a bit more 450-460 during veg, so instead of a 1w use a 3w, but put it on a dimmable circuit. (If using all 3w then use a ~ 5w NW/CW)

View attachment 2503242
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Surprise. What's that germing? WoodyHazeX Bitches!

In spite of the harsh beginnings, 3/5 Woody's have popped; one may, or not. Just don't know whether they will be stunted. After all, they are a solid 11 days behind normal

The rest of my clones are kickin it now. 3 more have tri-blade leafs

The grate is there just to hold the tub with the seedlings near the light., which is 2 @ 5-6K bulbs

IMG_1297.jpgIMG_1298.jpg
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
sickness! glad to hear the GREAT news w/ the woodyhaze seedlings.:D
(note; PF is probably the best a germination, now that ive seen this miracle lol)
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
This just in, UGA creates first WW to use single phosphor with single emitting center

Correlated color temperature less than 4,000 kelvins, and a color rendering index of 85. SWEET

http://www2.electronicproducts.com/World_s_first_warm_white_LED_to_use_single_phosphor_with_single_emitting_center-article-fajb_white_led_jan2013-html.aspx

Since my clones are soon to break out of their present diggz, AND, the WoodyHaze WW X BG mhs will soon be in need of my DIY Bubbler (and their own light source), I have been getting the T5 grow area ready for the clones. The WHWW X BG will stay in the LED tent for now
 
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