My auto seedling is not growing.

Uberknot

Well-Known Member
Reading on that GA-3 now interesting stuff. I'll study it for abit before thinking about it. ;)

"Premature flowering can be induced by direct application of Gibberellic acid on young plants.Formation of male flowers is generally caused by concentrations of 10-200 ppm.(parts per million) Female flowers by concentrations of 200-300 ppm.Concentrations 0f more than 600 ppm suppresses formation of both male and female flowers.
Gibberellic acid can be effectively used to increase fruit set.The resulting fruit may be partially or entirely seedless.Gibberellic acid does increase total yield in greenhouse tomatoes by increased fruit set and more rapid growth of fruit.

Pollination within self-incompatible clones and between closely related species (like squash) can sometimes be forced with the application of Gibberellic acid and Cytokinin to the flowers at the time of hand pollination."

It all sounds touchy and if you screw it up.....

Have you tried GA3 on them to make them veg more ? I`ve done it before it works on auto`s and even flowering photos but it can cause hermies and if you over do it, the plant will grow a meter in under a week, lol

but starts looking like a Dr Greenspoon, takes a few weeks or so for it to fill out again
 

THE KONASSURE

Well-Known Member
Reading on that GA-3 now interesting stuff. I'll study it for abit before thinking about it. ;)

"Premature flowering can be induced by direct application of Gibberellic acid on young plants.Formation of male flowers is generally caused by concentrations of 10-200 ppm.(parts per million) Female flowers by concentrations of 200-300 ppm.Concentrations 0f more than 600 ppm suppresses formation of both male and female flowers.
Gibberellic acid can be effectively used to increase fruit set.The resulting fruit may be partially or entirely seedless.Gibberellic acid does increase total yield in greenhouse tomatoes by increased fruit set and more rapid growth of fruit.

Pollination within self-incompatible clones and between closely related species (like squash) can sometimes be forced with the application of Gibberellic acid and Cytokinin to the flowers at the time of hand pollination."

It all sounds touchy and if you screw it up.....

Yeah its easy to over do it when spraying it

but it only helps mature plants flower male, never had it help a female flower more

just makes them veg more and can cause males or hermies

Triacontanol is what I use to get more and bigger female flowers also makes plants bush out and bud more

I use GA3 to make a plant get tall, like its tops will grow longer, have you seen a "monster crop" plant ? a flowering plant that`s been put back into veg ? GA3 can do that but at 12/12 still

a low dosage on a vegging plant and it shoot off

Triacontanol on the other had in veg makes a plant grow sideways like bottom and side shoots even the top act like when you put them into flowering, but they don`t flower they just get bigger and wider

if you use it during budding you can get more bud sites and the plants will throw out way more white hairs

when you use it later in flower yet again you get more fresh white hairs all over the buds



Evapoinic do a product called "plant steroids", 1ml per L you water the plants with it, it makes them grow taller faster gives them more vigour pretty sure that`s GA3 if you pump it to 3 to 6ml per L then you get mad stretch and the plants can hermi or sex up male more

but GA3 and triacontanol are both worth learning how to use for sure

Mix them with alcohol then use as a spray, not together obviously they do opposite things, or you can mix them up to make something to water your plants with

I`ve used both for years now, started by practicing on a few and now I use triacontanol on pretty much every plant I flower at one time or another in its life

during veg most of my plants get some evaponic steroids, by week 2/4 of veg is a good time makes them shoot off, then if needed I use the triacontanol to bush them up


And ga3 is great for post harvest you can make a plant re-veg while still keeping it at 12/12 if you want to, plus you can use it to hermi females to get pollen to make fem seeds

I mean GA3 is a gibberellic and triacontanol is a gibberellic inhibitor, I think more gibberellic is why sativa`s stretch more during flower I know ga3 on an indica during flower can make it look like a landrace sativa, lol
 

CriticalCheeze

Well-Known Member
Do you have a light meter? If you can measure at the level of the plants try to get 20,000-25,000 flux.


See that can actually pose a problem. if the guy is in a small space, say 2x2? then you dont need 25k lux that will be WAYYYYYY to much light for an auto at a young age. aim for 2500 lux per sq ft. so a 2x2 would need atleast 5000 lux to do fair. But when they are that small giving them 25k lux will do nothing but burn them n shit. If you need to grow with any type of fluorescent then it needs to be T5 HO's 1) 2-4 ft by 4 lamp t5 will get an autoflower going quite well in a small space. if you want to do it 100% right then you start them for veg under T5 then roid the fuckers under a hps once it can handle the heat and light intensity.
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
Cfls are generally pretty terrible, you need to use reflectors and they have about a 3 - 6 inch effective range.

Autos are vigorous, they hit the ground running you need to give them enough light to grow. If you stall them now they won't amount to much as you have a very limited veg period. Mine get 90watts of led from sprout.

I'd go so far as to say the veg period for autos is the most important part of the grow.
Straight to 15 inch pot and full 432 watts of t5 builds big hard buds with autos.
Plant straight to final pot. Five gallons if you can. At least three. Higher amounts of N will extend veg time on autos. Becareful and don't burn. Basically use veg nutes all the way through. a6.JPG a2.JPG
 

Uberknot

Well-Known Member
See that can actually pose a problem. if the guy is in a small space, say 2x2? then you dont need 25k lux that will be WAYYYYYY to much light for an auto at a young age. aim for 2500 lux per sq ft. so a 2x2 would need atleast 5000 lux to do fair. But when they are that small giving them 25k lux will do nothing but burn them n shit. If you need to grow with any type of fluorescent then it needs to be T5 HO's 1) 2-4 ft by 4 lamp t5 will get an autoflower going quite well in a small space. if you want to do it 100% right then you start them for veg under T5 then roid the fuckers under a hps once it can handle the heat and light intensity.

well mine are growing with 20k or more flux on it atm 24/7 2x2 area all 20k+ no matter what I do lol.

I also turn it up to 30k or so during the day.....are you so sure it's not temps you are talking about here?

Once the plants hit like 9-10 inches or so it's 35k-40k lux because of head room
 
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whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
See that can actually pose a problem. if the guy is in a small space, say 2x2? then you dont need 25k lux that will be WAYYYYYY to much light for an auto at a young age. aim for 2500 lux per sq ft. so a 2x2 would need atleast 5000 lux to do fair. But when they are that small giving them 25k lux will do nothing but burn them n shit. If you need to grow with any type of fluorescent then it needs to be T5 HO's 1) 2-4 ft by 4 lamp t5 will get an autoflower going quite well in a small space. if you want to do it 100% right then you start them for veg under T5 then roid the fuckers under a hps once it can handle the heat and light intensity.
I'm in a 2x4 and want more light.
 

Uberknot

Well-Known Member
here ya go.....

Quick Guide - Lux Levels for Optimal Cannabis Growth

Life Stage MaximumGood Minimum
Vegetative
70,000 lux 40,000 lux 15,000 lux
Flowering 85,000 lux 60,000 lux 35,000 lux

< 15,000 lux - sparse or "stretchy" growth - plant isn't getting enough light
15,000 - 50,000 lux - good amount of light for healthy vegetative growth
45,000 - 65,000 lux - optimal amount of light for cannabis plants in the flowering (budding) stage
70,000 - 85,000 lux - a lot of light, some strains do okay at this light level, but some plants lose their top leaves early under this light intensity, especially plants that are not resistant to heat/light (like many indicas)
> 85,000 lux - at this light intensity, you've hit the plant's "saturation point" which means your plant can't use all the light. ( bleaching can happen. )

more info

Light Requirements of “High Energy” Plants

Amount of luxPlant Growth
1000 – 5000 lux Min. necessary for life
10000 – 15000 lux Min. necessary for consistent but sparse growth
20000 – 25000 lux Min. necessary for robust growth
25000 – 30000 lux Max. Efficiency for Sub Tropical varieties
25000 – 50000 lux Max. Efficiency for Equatorial varieties
Plants need 25000-50000 lux too grow fast.
 

CriticalCheeze

Well-Known Member
I'm in a 2x4 and want more light.



Do you have a way to vent heat and bring in fresh air? if you do then i would get a 600w hps n ballast (of course) If not then LED are pretty good depending on the ones you get (as LED lights don't really matter AS much on the lux as it does with the PAR ratings) but can be kinda pricey for the good reputable ones, the only other thing i can suggest are T5s but those will get you much less growth and yield as the previous. but heat will be the lowest of the 2, or just about equal to a LED. If you dont have a way to exchange hot air for cold air and keep it ventilated than dont use a hps because the heat will fuck you hard in a 4x2. even though hps is the best option
 

CriticalCheeze

Well-Known Member
well mine are growing with 20k or more flux on it atm 24/7 2x2 area all 20k+ no matter what I do lol.

I also turn it up to 30k or so during the day.....are you so sure it's not temps you are talking about here?

Once the plants hit like 9-10 inches or so it's 35k-40k lux because of head room

I don't mean burn sorry lol. I mean bleach and distort. which in the end i think can cause issues for photosynthesis, but i could be wrong. I just dont want someone to go put an assload of lux a couple inches away from a young seedling lol. not until it really needs it, saves you money too ;)
 

Uberknot

Well-Known Member
I don't mean burn sorry lol. I mean bleach and distort. which in the end i think can cause issues for photosynthesis, but i could be wrong. I just dont want someone to go put an assload of lux a couple inches away from a young seedling lol. not until it really needs it, saves you money too ;)

Believe me seedlings grow fine at 15k-20k lux measured with a lux meter.

AT least with 4x COBS 3590 3500k maybe CFL's are different...

Too little light slows em down and stretches....of course you can have it a little higher because of quick growth,
 
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whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
Do you have a way to vent heat and bring in fresh air? if you do then i would get a 600w hps n ballast (of course) If not then LED are pretty good depending on the ones you get (as LED lights don't really matter AS much on the lux as it does with the PAR ratings) but can be kinda pricey for the good reputable ones, the only other thing i can suggest are T5s but those will get you much less growth and yield as the previous. but heat will be the lowest of the 2, or just about equal to a LED. If you dont have a way to exchange hot air for cold air and keep it ventilated than dont use a hps because the heat will fuck you hard in a 4x2. even though hps is the best option
I know how to get more light. It was rhetorical.
 
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