more cooling problems

B166ER420

Well-Known Member
Or u can keep dry ice in the shower( co2 and temp)<img src="https://www.rollitup.org/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" smilieid="1" class="inlineimg"> <img src="https://www.rollitup.org/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" smilieid="1" class="inlineimg"> <img src="https://www.rollitup.org/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" smilieid="1" class="inlineimg">hehehe
 
Seem like the tent is your problem. Its trapping and retaining a lot of heat from the light. I would ditch the tent and grow in the shower. The heat would have more room to disperse. Line the walls and door with white plastic. Attach the light on a removable shower curtain pole (the one with the springs) that way it could easily be raised and lowered. Attach the exhaust duct firmly to the vent so it don't escape back into the bathroom. It don't sound like such a bad thing having the shower open at the top. Heat rises so if you placed your fan at the top of your shower it would naturally an physically be drawn to it and out the vent. A vented hood would be a good thing to have. You could always get some of those automatic air fresheners and set it for every 5 mins. or so, and put 1 in the bathroom and 1 right outside the door. You'd never smell a thing. Don't worry about contaminants, its not like shrooms. Just some thoughts.

Good Luck,
Smoken M.
 
Hi.

I've attached some pictures showing the inside and outwide of the tent. The one I've inserted below wouldn't attach because of it's size. It's actually on it's side and needs to be rotated 90 degrees clockwise (the white part is the ceiling and the pink is the wall). We pass the air through the charcoal filter then through a duct to the inline fan, through another duct (this one) to the bathroom ceiling fan (removed) ducting.





IM000250.jpg
 

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insan3

Well-Known Member
i skim through u thread so if you have already done this then whatever lol.

You have a few problems than is making a huge problem. First your tent is 2x2x6 which is a small space for a 600w light. a 600w usually covers an area of 4x4 since u have a smaller area it get hotter quicker.

solution since in your pic it looks like you have an air-cooled reflector you can get an 6 inch(380 to 450 cfm) line fan to cool of your light. setup should be like this Carbon filter -> duct -> air cooled reflector -> duct -> inline fan -> exhaust. since you already have a 4inch inline fan make your intake fan at the bottom of your tent(if you get duct long enough you can make it pull air from whatever part of your house if cool. make sure to compare the temp of the air intake vs exhaust. for example my intake temp ranges from 70f to 75f and my exhaust usually from 75f to 80f.

hope this helps

edit: dont forget to have a fan inside moving air around.
 

cues

Well-Known Member
Yep. 600 is too much. 2x2 and 165 cfm is too little. It's all a bit mis-matched.
Personally, if I were you and I could, I would buy a 125w cfl for the 2x2 and make a veg cab, and a 4x4 tent and 6" 400cfm fan for the 600.
 

HeartlandHank

Well-Known Member
I agree ^^ I know it sucks. But it sounds like you need to rethink lots of things.

As to insan3's advice... i doubt that the carbon filter>duct>aircool hood>duct>fan>out setup will be enough to cool your needs in such a small space with such a large light.. I have ran that setup before and it does not do the best job, and that was with a 400w. But, it is the best alternative if you cannot go all the way. The problem is that you need so much more aircooling air flow than you do exhaust. Your aircool will be lacking and your exhaust will be overpowering. With a passive intake, your tent will be wanting to collapse in on itself.

Consider not growing in the hottest summer months... It makes everything easier. Cut July and August out and your cooling needs will drop a little bit.

Like posters said in the past... 600 is way too big for a 2x2. If you are going to use a 600 in a tent you need 2 fans, at least. You need exhaust and air cool. Your intake can be passive which eliminates the need for a 3rd fan. But, you will get better airflow with an active intake.

Growing in an open space is much easier, but I understand the advantages of a tent as well. Small spaces require much more equipment and air flow than a larger space.

Your current issued could be solved by using cfls rather than an hps.

I say either switch to cfls or rethink your whole thing. 600 in a 2x2 is going to require HUGE amounts of airflow, multiple airflow circuits, and very cool air intake.
 

kryptoniteglo

Well-Known Member
Hey J and E...I just posted this in my thread on the same topic:

"I just tried an experiment -- unzipped the tent from the bottom and put a Vornado room fan on low to push cool air in. I also blocked up the gap with a box to keep my cats out. It worked! Inside temp under the light is now 85. Sweet!

The only problem is that I can see some cat hair now flying around the tent. But now that I know this works well, I'll figure out a screen system before the plants get sticky. A cheap fix, just the way I like it."

I'm also going to talk to the folks at HTG, where I purchased my tent to see if the 4" vent at the bottom would provide enough air with a 4" inline fan to cool.
 

insan3

Well-Known Member
I agree ^^ I know it sucks. But it sounds like you need to rethink lots of things.

As to insan3's advice... i doubt that the carbon filter>duct>aircool hood>duct>fan>out setup will be enough to cool your needs in such a small space with such a large light.. I have ran that setup before and it does not do the best job, and that was with a 400w. But, it is the best alternative if you cannot go all the way. The problem is that you need so much more aircooling air flow than you do exhaust. Your aircool will be lacking and your exhaust will be overpowering. With a passive intake, your tent will be wanting to collapse in on itself.

the exhaust has to be greater than the intake. if they use the 4 inch inline at the bottom + all the flaps open around the bottom should be more than enough. Since your exhaust is greater it will create a good air flow and it will get rid of the hot air quicker. i had a 600w in a 2x2x4 and this worked fine. my room temp was 70f to 75f.
 
thanks for all this great advice! We have the light damped down 50%, so it's more like 300w than 600, and we've opened the flap at the bottom and are blowing air in. It seemes to be working, although we'd prefer to have everything zipped up tight when the lights are on. That's why we're going to switch away from passive intake and actually duct air in through one of the ports. If that doesn't work, we'll probably bite another bullet and switch to a cooled light. What does everyone think?

Thanks again.
 

insan3

Well-Known Member
an air cool reflector will defently drop your temps if you set it up as i mention above. not until u get will ur temps drop. just follow what i said and you will be happy.
 
Hey, HHH.

We`ve been reading up on SCROG. We knew about training the plants horizontally to produce more bud, but we hadn`t heard or thought of using netting. Thanks very much for suggesting it!
 

Atomized

Member
Having similar problems in my 2x2 running a 400 mh. Mid 80s during the day. Looking to upgrade my cab to a 4x4. This site needs a used gear section.
 
Hi, we're back. Well, Elsie is back - James is away.

We did put an in-line duct fan into one of the bottom ports, and it's worked well. If it seems to be getting a bit warm we just use a normal household fan to blow a bit more cool air at the outside of the port. The ladies are flourishing, although if we can come up with any money we may, as suggested, re-work this whole thing next time around. Sorry I don't have any pictures - they're sleeping right now.

I do have a question about budding (as I said, James is away, and I'm a total newbie), but I'll put that in a different
area.

Thanks again for all your help.
 
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