Moist ideas :-)

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Air exchange way more important than humidity to drying why bud still dries at 70%rh.

:-)
Yep, and sometimes we are handed situations we have to adapt because the ideal scenario just isn't going to happen for whatever reason. Compromise is a bitch.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
How accurate does the answer need to be?

The following is probably wrong in some way:
Assume water content 85% (internet says 80-90% of plant matter is water)
85 g (water) / 100 g (fresh)
100 g (fresh weight) - (dry weight g) = water lost g
85 g (water) - water lost g = final water g
final water g / dry weight g = water content %

I feel like I'm missing something since the above doesn't mention humidity at all.
A hebaceous plant will typically contain 300% + more water weight than other material.
IMO acuracy is not necessarily the issue, consistency is.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Yep, and sometimes we are handed situations we have to adapt because the ideal scenario just isn't going to happen for whatever reason. Compromise is a bitch.
I dont compromise on knowledge here, yet to see that you need to jar before bud reaches final moisture content.

It would be a bitch if i lived in a rainforest or 7000ft or a desert or underwater but that isnt 90% of us here so id prefer if the 90% info gets given with the other 10% as it was done here.

I learnt a lot though, hopefully others will :-)
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
I dont compromise on knowledge here, yet to see that you need to jar before bud reaches final moisture content.

It would be a bitch if i lived in a rainforest or 7000ft or a desert or underwater but that isnt 90% of us here so id prefer if the 90% info gets given with the other 10% as it was done here.

I learnt a lot though, hopefully others will :-)
Fair enough.
I will say this though, I belive it is through these comprises that I have made I believe we at least share similar views on intersex plants, not necissarily what should be done with them but most every thing else you've posted on the subject.

And if laguna would like to share a vpd table for growing or drying that is developed for elevation, I'll take a link.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
I dont compromise on knowledge here, yet to see that you need to jar before bud reaches final moisture content.

It would be a bitch if i lived in a rainforest or 7000ft or a desert or underwater but that isnt 90% of us here so id prefer if the 90% info gets given with the other 10% as it was done here.

I learnt a lot though, hopefully others will :-)
Though I make compromises in the actions I make I dont compromise on the science behind the decision. That said its also a mater of determining and focusing on the right scientific principle.

I think you really hit it there, jar the bud when its done drying. If dried at a constant 60-70 rh for an approximate 2 weeks in a room with decent airflow, jar, no burb, no bovida. Boom done. I view this a bit like landing a plane, we landed so hard in in chicago once the pilot felt necessary to come on and explain and apologize for the shitty landing, we all got to the intended destination but it would have been nice not to have such a rough landing. IMO you wanna swoop in like a glider.

Unfortunately my global rh is too low for that, I belive blowing the dry atmospheric air over the buds is more detrimental. Ideally this air should be preconditioned, or if your in a room or area larger than a 4 x 4 tent (more important to consider is how much bud per volume of air in the space). Drying 2 oz in an open room vs. drying 2 lbs in an open room, the chemistry is no different but the environmental management techniques would need to adjusted for the smaller mass of bud because it has a lower magnitude impact on the environment itself.

I think it is the oxidative property of air that provides the most benifit associated with air flow, not the water handeling capacity. In other words I think the airflow helps more with the chemical reactions processing the "green" compounds, than moisture removal. IMO air dryer than 50% rh is too dry to actively blow across buds.

Tried for situational relavency and away from my needs but I have the experince I have and am forced to referce those experiences when giving examples.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Though I make compromises in the actions I make I dont compromise on the science behind the decision. That said its also a mater of determining and focusing on the right scientific principle.

I think you really hit it there, jar the bud when its done drying. If dried at a constant 60-70 rh for an approximate 2 weeks in a room with decent airflow, jar, no burb, no bovida. Boom done. I view this a bit like landing a plane, we landed so hard in in chicago once the pilot felt necessary to come on and explain and apologize for the shitty landing, we all got to the intended destination but it would have been nice not to have such a rough landing. IMO you wanna swoop in like a glider.

Unfortunately my global rh is too low for that, I belive blowing the dry atmospheric air over the buds is more detrimental. Ideally this air should be preconditioned, or if your in a room or area larger than a 4 x 4 tent (more important to consider is how much bud per volume of air in the space). Drying 2 oz in an open room vs. drying 2 lbs in an open room, the chemistry is no different but the environmental management techniques would need to adjusted for the smaller mass of bud because it has a lower magnitude impact on the environment itself.

I think it is the oxidative property of air that provides the most benifit associated with air flow, not the water handeling capacity. In other words I think the airflow helps more with the chemical reactions processing the "green" compounds, than moisture removal. IMO air dryer than 50% rh is too dry to actively blow across buds.

Tried for situational relavency and away from my needs but I have the experince I have and am forced to referce those experiences when giving examples.


I am looking at similar stuff atm but its a slow process - i remember some old members mentioning it but cant remember what they said on it, there was some basic advice on riu somewhere.



It could be not to bring jarred weed down from altitude or it gets damp from jar pressure change or somthing -

Riu got so trolled and switched to the new format its hard to find some of the knowledge others before me had.

Get back to me about what happens if you bring sealed jars of dry bud down to sea level - miss the old riu knowledge on these subjects ....

:-)
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
I am looking at similar stuff atm but its a slow process - i remember some old members mentioning it but cant remember what they said on it, there was some basic advice on riu somewhere.



It could be not to bring jarred weed down from altitude or it gets damp from jar pressure change or somthing -

Riu got so trolled and switched to the new format its hard to find some of the knowledge others before me had.

Get back to me about what happens if you bring sealed jars of dry bud down to sea level - miss the old riu knowledge on these subjects ....

:-)
Nothing until you open the jar. In a bag it will experince an increase in pressure. Same moisture content, same temp, higher pressure, but based on the ideal gas law I'm not sure anything will change with bud until you open the bag still.

Potato chips taste the same to me here as they do at sea level, leave the bag open I think there will be a difference in texture but I haven't taken any measurements to confirm this.:P

I'm going to go back and look at the table for rh vs. mc to look at mass equivalnce, 70% rh at sea level results in a specific mass of water in a given volume of air while 70%rh at elevation will result in a lower mass of water in the same volume of air. I think this will shed some light on the scenario you suggest.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
I learned a lot of this shit back in the late 90's with the AOL and yahoo chat groups. Anyone could read but you had to be invited to post.

Edit- now I have to relearn.
 

Covetsculitvars

Well-Known Member
If i take 100grams of fresh harvested bud and allow to dry for two weeks how do i work out at what the moisture content of the final dried bud is?

Buyyouabeer posted this in another thread (rep+)-

"The property of the air is called the equilibrium moisture content (EMC) and it is numerically equal to the MC that wood will achieve during drying if you wait long enough and if the conditions do not change. (Example: At 30% RH, wood will achieve 6% MC. So the air has an EMC of 6%.)

Common conversions:
0% RH = 0% MC = 0% EMC
30% = 6%
50% = 9%
65% = 12%
80% = 16%
99% = 28%"

Assuming wood weed food all have a similar scale we could simply jar our weed with a suspended hygrometer in air space and record the value of humidity when it no longer rises any higher. This value used in a table would suggest the moisture content percentage i.e. 10-15% for wood but i doubt more than a couple percent change if there were a table for mj or somthing of accurate representation.

If i couldnt record humidity how do i work out the final moisture content after two weeks hang drying of a fresh 100gram harvest?

Take an additional ten grams of fresh harvested bud and carefully heat in the correct matter to expunge all moisture then re weigh.

Multiply this dry weight by ten then subtract from the final two week dry harvest weight to leave the percentage moisture amount.

How do i dry 100grams of fresh harvested bud to a final moisture content of 15%?

Hangdry your bud in a ventilated drying space that maintains the corrosponding humidity of say the table above (ill pretend i did the maths) 72.5% and come back in two weeks - the bud should equalise to this point with a corrosponding value of 15% and litreature suggests any futher moisture loss past this will take a much longer period of time so it will stay at this and not loose much for longer periods if atmosphere kept exactly.

How do i maintain my bud moisture in a jar for periods of time say six months or a week, if you smoke far too much?

If we took the above bud at 15% and put enough in a jar so that it was reasonably full we would assume that as long as the humidity of the air was lower than the corrosponding equilibrium relative humidity it would raise the jars humidity up to the 72.5% as mentioned above (ya you got wet weed at this point). If the humidity on that day was higher then the bud would absorb some into its matrix but luckily were talking small amounts so not a great deal.of overall extra weight - Boveda anyone?

If we jar at lower humidity it would be safer and promote the dry a fraction more as it equalized - of course we could jar under a set humidity by humidifying or dehu. you packaging area/warehouse.

Obviously i aint got wood and this is theoretical. Dry time in a perfect environment is preferrably longer than shorter as equilibrium once reached dosent change much or fast.

Those who dry at low humidity experience the drier end than those at the higher relatve humidities - luckily all fall within woods smoking range so its more the detail as both higher and lower still produce a great dry end product.

This taken into account the utmost best way to produce the right rnvironment is to spend money and climate control not jar early as that encumbers the ability to loose moisture and equalize.

It begs the question if air dosent hold much weight in water just how much you loose by burping wet weed in a jar everyday cannot be even much worth note and possibly why if you jar weed to early you have to burp for what... two three weeks?

I never liked the burp, wet weed soon taste off or molds if left too long, dry then jar - i check its still dry the next few days and if it stays that way bingo jar sealed for a few months or however long.


:-)
I just read a thread at Icmag about curing buds in corn cobs............so this thread was a great read so far.my head is spinning I digress lmao!
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Nothing until you open the jar. In a bag it will experince an increase in pressure. Same moisture content, same temp, higher pressure, but based on the ideal gas law I'm not sure anything will change with bud until you open the bag still.

Potato chips taste the same to me here as they do at sea level, leave the bag open I think there will be a difference in texture but I haven't taken any measurements to confirm this.:P

I'm going to go back and look at the table for rh vs. mc to look at mass equivalnce, 70% rh at sea level results in a specific mass of water in a given volume of air while 70%rh at elevation will result in a lower mass of water in the same volume of air. I think this will shed some light on the scenario you suggest.
Ill find it in time :-)
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Im guessing the answer is no but is there no simple way to read bud moisture?

:-)
I have been confligrating a couple of things and some of what I have posted may at the very least be misinterpreted. More on that in a bit.

The way that you indicate for obtainig bud moisture is the simple way. Taking a sample, drying it, then comparing the numbers. How do you remove all the water and only the water? You don't without specialized equipment. Even laboratory grade desiccant chambers require mechanical means to achieve dry. I think getting much below 10% rh would be difficult for a hobbyist grower. I think we need make/find the data points for cannabis at different rh, then extrapolate the zero point.

With a wood moisture meter the readings are relative (analog meter) or calculated from known data points for a given species.

Which brings me to what I was confligrating.
Relative humidity is relative to how much water the air could hold. Air at lower pressure can hold more water than air at higher pressure. What this means is that to go from 60 up to 70 rh at elevation I have to add more water than someone at sea level given the same temperature. At 70F and 70% rh the difference is about 25g more water per pound of air.

https://www.aqua-calc.com/calculate/humidity

My barometric pressure ranges around 570mmhg or 3/4 atm. 1atm = 760mmhg
So this is how a weather front moving through might impact someone at low altitude, but as long as their drying environment is controled to the desired rh and temp they won't see any difference in product quality. This is why hvac guys get paid.

If there is a significant difference in the rh vs. mc it will be because of temperature not altitude. I don't think the air being less dense at altitude would have a significant impact, perhaps if we were looking at a material with a similar density to air it would matter but at this point I don't think so.

I went down the rabbits hole far enough to find the enthalpy of air at the same rh and temperature is higher at sea level than at altitude. Why swamp coolers work better/more effecient here.

Done, except for collecting data points at different rh and temps.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Ok im actually right on it now - mucho catched up on the whole subject.

First thing is there is very little data on mj for an industry that acts like they know shit -

I see no reason force drying with heat would cause a problem and there will be numerous work around for the trichs - many plants with volatile oils are heat dried in the lab for final weight - this actually needs more discussion imo. Im not qualified and lots more reading on top of where i am there.

If someone could add a moisture percentage to each grade of weed that would satisfy us hobbyists - over dry - grinds but holds when compact - barely grinds - and so forth up to too wet to smoke. We all know those grades just cant fathom a number for them. If 9% is too dry and 15% barely smokable or somthing.

I guess from here my biggest gripe is no simplification or fun easy tables -

I feel like i could do but do i have willpower hmmmm :-)






I have been confligrating a couple of things and some of what I have posted may at the very least be misinterpreted. More on that in a bit.

The way that you indicate for obtainig bud moisture is the simple way. Taking a sample, drying it, then comparing the numbers. How do you remove all the water and only the water? You don't without specialized equipment. Even laboratory grade desiccant chambers require mechanical means to achieve dry. I think getting much below 10% rh would be difficult for a hobbyist grower. I think we need make/find the data points for cannabis at different rh, then extrapolate the zero point.

With a wood moisture meter the readings are relative (analog meter) or calculated from known data points for a given species.

Which brings me to what I was confligrating.
Relative humidity is relative to how much water the air could hold. Air at lower pressure can hold more water than air at higher pressure. What this means is that to go from 60 up to 70 rh at elevation I have to add more water than someone at sea level given the same temperature. At 70F and 70% rh the difference is about 25g more water per pound of air.

https://www.aqua-calc.com/calculate/humidity

My barometric pressure ranges around 570mmhg or 3/4 atm. 1atm = 760mmhg
So this is how a weather front moving through might impact someone at low altitude, but as long as their drying environment is controled to the desired rh and temp they won't see any difference in product quality. This is why hvac guys get paid.

If there is a significant difference in the rh vs. mc it will be because of temperature not altitude. I don't think the air being less dense at altitude would have a significant impact, perhaps if we were looking at a material with a similar density to air it would matter but at this point I don't think so.

I went down the rabbits hole far enough to find the enthalpy of air at the same rh and temperature is higher at sea level than at altitude. Why swamp coolers work better/more effecient here.

Done, except for collecting data points at different rh and temps.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Ok im actually right on it now - mucho catched up on the whole subject.

First thing is there is very little data on mj for an industry that acts like they know shit -

I see no reason force drying with heat would cause a problem and there will be numerous work around for the trichs - many plants with volatile oils are heat dried in the lab for final weight - this actually needs more discussion imo. Im not qualified and lots more reading on top of where i am there.

If someone could add a moisture percentage to each grade of weed that would satisfy us hobbyists - over dry - grinds but holds when compact - barely grinds - and so forth up to too wet to smoke. We all know those grades just cant fathom a number for them. If 9% is too dry and 15% barely smokable or somthing.

I guess from here my biggest gripe is no simplification or fun easy tables -

I feel like i could do but do i have willpower hmmmm :-)
They have had the entirety of history collecting data on grain and other foodstuffs. Now that mj and hemp are being produced in mass under controlled circumstances, not just in us but in other counties but with the legal landscape continues to change, more data will come. I'd be supprised if Oregon geowers with their 3 year surpluss of weed aren't incredibly concerned about long term stable storage, and alread have the info.

Sometimes when you want to use a scalpel, only a hammer will do.

On a 1.9g sample stored at 50 rh 65F, I lost 0.1g @ 43 rh 65F.
Smokes fine.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
They have had the entirety of history collecting data on grain and other foodstuffs. Now that mj and hemp are being produced in mass under controlled circumstances, not just in us but in other counties but with the legal landscape continues to change, more data will come. I'd be supprised if Oregon geowers with their 3 year surpluss of weed aren't incredibly concerned about long term stable storage, and alread have the info.

Sometimes when you want to use a scalpel, only a hammer will do.

On a 1.9g sample stored at 50 rh 65F, I lost 0.1g @ 43 rh 65F.
Smokes fine.
They can store bud for three years zero potency loss - am i privvy to this low cost procedure or not? Would be handy for prepping world war three, three years suggest a lot longer too.

Theres too much intrest from new growers, i need to make a chart thread sticky even - have you noticed a lot of stickies are not great info here and could do with a more refined modern post legalization approach... :-)
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
They can store bud for three years zero potency loss - am i privvy to this low cost procedure or not? Would be handy for prepping world war three, three years suggest a lot longer too.

Theres too much intrest from new growers, i need to make a chart thread sticky even - have you noticed a lot of stickies are not great info here and could do with a more refined modern post legalization approach... :-)
The old environment sucked too tho, the hiding mad deception an accepted behavior. Now those same people are starting "legit" businesses.
Greenleaf is an example, I was just getting comfortable with their product, then I see they are going to change formulation. I always knew they sold pgr's now with how they are acting Ive gone back to all non cana specific stuff. I fell decieved.
Lighting is another arena where false claims run rampent. I blame both led and hid users for that.

At this stage in the industry, there arent any cheap solutions to be had, if they are cheap someone in the cana industry is bumping the price by 500% making it no longer cheap.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
The old environment sucked too tho, the hiding mad deception an accepted behavior. Now those same people are starting "legit" businesses.
Greenleaf is an example, I was just getting comfortable with their product, then I see they are going to change formulation. I always knew they sold pgr's now with how they are acting Ive gone back to all non cana specific stuff. I fell decieved.
Lighting is another arena where false claims run rampent. I blame both led and hid users for that.

At this stage in the industry, there arent any cheap solutions to be had, if they are cheap someone in the cana industry is bumping the price by 500% making it no longer cheap.
Ive kinda been ignoring the industry and canna products for a while now. If you base research on hemp marijuana turns out to not be a fussy plant nutrient wise.

Fuck my last bottle of biobizz fishmix was 5-3-4 npk this bottle now 5-1-4 npk. Im gona put thay down to different countries and labels using different npk readings and omitting certain things. One country close to us always displays phosphorus as a lower number to us.

Saying that i do love bilbizz fishmix, one of the few ive had that actually was better than the hype and got very little anyway. One day a top member here told me to ditch their grow for the fishmix - possibly the top ten bits of advice ive had here :-)
 
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