Mixing the best nutrients from different companies?!

1freezy

Well-Known Member
Has anyone took the best from each manufacturer and put them together?

This is not my mix just a poorly thrown together example of what I am discussing!

Clonex - for clones
Miracle Gro Quick Start Transplant Solution
Humboldt Master A
Thrive alive b1
BC Grow
Natures solution Compost tea
Humboldt Sticky
Fox Farm Big Bloom & Tiger Bloom
Sugar Daddy

Obviously we can do better than this!
 

Howard Stern

Well-Known Member
That's funny I was just at the hydro store looking at doing this very thing! I use all six FF nutes and FFOF soil. I was wondering about merging FF nutes and Advance nutes untill I saw the price on the advance nutes!
 

1freezy

Well-Known Member
I am using the BC from technaflora and I enjoy it but Fox Farms has never disappointed me?
 

Snow Crash

Well-Known Member
Canna Coco A+B
Canna Rhizotonic
Canna BioBoost
Humboldt Nutrients SeaMag
Humboldt Nutrients FlavorFul
Humboldt Nutrients Mayan Microzym
Botanicare Cal-Mag Plus
Botanicare Liquid Karma
Organicare Huvega
Organicare Calplex
DynaGro Pro-Tekt
Advanced Nutrients Nirvana
General Hydroponics Liquid Karma

Mwa HAHAHHAHAH!!!!!

6ml Canna A
6ml Canna B
2ml Rhizotonic
5ml Liquid Karma

That's all I'm using right now.

Home Brewer is right though, less is more, 1.4 EC is ideal. I put together a simple calculator to estimate the final EC of my solutions so I can tweak my NPK Ca and Mg levels to where ever I want them at any point in the grow. Run off is crucial. No run off and you're going to have a bad time.
 

1freezy

Well-Known Member
Nice I have grown a lot and read a shit load but still don't grasp all that N-P-K has to offer looked at charts learned about applications during different life cycles.

Where would be a good place to learn of such things or maybe I know and just don't get it?!

If I was looking for 8-8-8 would mixing a 6-1-3 with a 2-7-5? Mathematically yes but for realistic application probably not! Right?
 

Snow Crash

Well-Known Member
Probably not.

What is on the label is only what is promised to be in there. There will be an unavoidable bit more you just cannot plan on. Also, the amount of ml you use make a huge difference at a concentration of 8-8-8. Figure that is 4x more concentrated than a 2-2-2. Every little bit you over do it will be a larger issue.

You can do a little math to figure out an approximate EC for the solution if you don't have a meter. Nutrient values are in parts per hundred, so it's just a matter of converting to ppm and then compensating for your solution volume.

For Nitrogen you could take the percentage on the label and multiply that by 10,000 to get the ~ppm in the bottle of N. Then you divide the number of ml of water (a gallon is 3780) by the ml you used (like 10ml). Divide the first number by the second number and that gives you an approximate N value (within 20%).

On the label P and K are listed as P2O4 and K2O so you need to understand that the actual level of phosphorus is only 44% of what is listed, and potassium is only 83% of what is listed.

An 8-8-8 at 10ml per gallon would be:
(8*10,000)=80,000
(3790/10)= 379
(80,000/379)= 211ppm N
(211*0.44)= 93ppm P
(211*0.83)= 175ppm K

You then need to do the same formula for Calcium and Magnesium.

211ppm-211ppm-211ppm plus let's say 150ppm Ca and 50ppm Mg
You get about 835. Double that, and you get the standard American conversion for ppm to uS/cm (detailed EC), and it is 1670. An EC of about 1.7 predicted.

Add in the tap water, and compensate for "extra" and your true EC could easily be over 2.0 with a mixture like that.

Get yourself a meter, do a little math, figure out some good ratios and keep you EC under 1.8 for sure and you should have good results. In soil you should be aiming around 1.0 to 1.2 during your stronger feedings which are sporadic at best.
 

1freezy

Well-Known Member
Snow Crash although I've heard that in a different way before you explained it so I could grasp it.

Thanks a bunch. + rep
 
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