Mg, Ca, and Nutrient Lockout Issues..Need Help

R

rightcoast

Member
I was hoping to get some knowledgeable input about some watering issues I am having. For the majority of my current grow I have been using tap water that has sat out for 2+ days.

After reading the water report here are some useful(average) values:
TDS: 148ppm
Chloride: 23ppm
Calcium: 29ppm
Hardness CaCO3: 75ppm
Magnesium: 1.8ppm

My question is that when I flush my plants with "pure" tap water, I get what sure looks like an Mg, or Ca deficiency. From what I have read 75ppm of hardness is pretty soft, would I benefit from adding Calmag to my non nutrient waterings?

I use Fox Farm nutrients and always pH my nutrient solutions down to roughly 6. The most ppm I have ever given them is around 900. I am positive it isnt nutrient burn, and always pH my water and run off, which is sometimes a bit low but never bad. I feed them every other watering with at least a gallon of water.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 
MoonRaver

MoonRaver

Active Member
From time to time foxfarm nutes will do that "Lack of beneficial microbes". You should add a mychorize inoculant to hasten the rate at which the microbes break down the organic fertilizer or just get a calcium magnesium supplament. If your flushing for harvest I wouldn't worry.
 
urgod

urgod

Well-Known Member
you should never flush with pure water. doing it will fuck up your plants since all the salts in your plants > salts in your water, and things tend to go to equilibrium...it will drain all the nutes out of your weed.. creating more problems. moonraver is correct, especially if ur using organics, its best to use beneficial microbes. 900PPM isnt really that strong but its more strain specific. What you could do is start at a lower PPM, then slowing rasing it. i'd add some calmag or epsom salt if i was u
 
R

rightcoast

Member
Thanks for the quick responses..I am on day 56 of flowering but plan on feeding them one more time..I should probably include some epsom salt? Plan on getting calmag for the next go around anways..What are some good myochorize inoculants?
 
R

rightcoast

Member
Here are some pics from day 43, roughly when it began. Pics are as follows.
1. Vanilla Kush
2. Laughing Buddha
3. LA Confidential
4. Vanilla Kush(same plant as 1)
5. LA (same as 3)

I have 5 in total under 1000w of hortilux(one 400w and one 600w). Not pictured are acapulco gold, and super lemon haze. The leaves on most of the plants now are pretty yellow/brown and curling upwards. The phone pic was today day 56. thats laughing buddhaIMG_0220.jpg

IMG_3589.JPGIMG_3583.JPGIMG_3591.JPGIMG_3584.JPGIMG_3590.JPG
 
budforever442200

budforever442200

Well-Known Member
When plants are in heavy flower they yellow, it's ok. The leaves pointing up is also a good thing, they are reaching. Now it looks like you were hitting then hard with nutrients and maybe overdid it a little. You say they are 56 days in flower? Why not start flushing? I use a flushing solution from GH florakleen, I love it but you can just flush with plain ph 6-6.5 water for the rest of your cycle. They look really good. Oh what are your temps/humidity
My 2 cents.
Good luck and Jah love!
 
R

rightcoast

Member
The reason for the start of the yellowing was that I flushed them all with plain water and apparently wasn't feeding them enough in the first place. Isnt 70ppm of hardness pretty soft for tap water? If I were to use Calmag..how much ppm would I want in between nutrient feedings?
 
303

303

Well-Known Member
budforever442200 said:
You don't yellow at all in late flower?
Click to expand...
No I don't. I use N all the way through. I'm hydro. I only flush for 2 days with florakleen, never a yellow leaf. Not saying I'm perfect I just don't get the N def late in flower because I feed N all the way through IMO.
 
303

303

Well-Known Member
rightcoast said:
The reason for the start of the yellowing was that I flushed them all with plain water and apparently wasn't feeding them enough in the first place. Isnt 70ppm of hardness pretty soft for tap water? If I were to use Calmag..how much ppm would I want in between nutrient feedings?
Click to expand...
I don't think you need to add cal mag, just watch your plants they'll tell you if you need to add, till then your nutrients should have enough already in it.
 
budforever442200

budforever442200

Well-Known Member
I have hydro and soil, and both late in flower they yellow. When they start I flush with florakleen as well, I have never seen late flower plants with no yellowing. I find it starts to stress the plant and they swell and ripen. At a 1 2/3lb a light I don't think it matters.
 

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kimish

kimish

Well-Known Member
Chlorine in the tap water? I'm no where near a pro but it's just a thought.
any thoughts on that?
 
kimish

kimish

Well-Known Member
Could it maybe be the chlorine in the tap water causing the problem? Any thoughts on that? I've always heard that when using tap water you should let the water set out for at least a day for the chlorine to dissipate.
 
303

303

Well-Known Member
budforever442200 said:
I have hydro and soil, and both late in flower they yellow. When they start I flush with florakleen as well, I have never seen late flower plants with no yellowing. I find it starts to stress the plant and they swell and ripen. At a 1 2/3lb a light I don't think it matters.
Click to expand...
Yes no yellowing leafs, ever heard of a guy named uncle ben? read some of his threads, because of him I don't have yellowing leafs, period. Understand what makes the plant tick. Can't do the math but at 32 plants hydro, 4k lights, I get 8-9lbs, not to mention only 7 days of veg.. Not sure if that sucks but I'm doing ok.
 
budforever442200

budforever442200

Well-Known Member
303 said:
Yes no yellowing leafs, ever heard of a guy named uncle ben? read some of his threads, because of him I don't have yellowing leafs, period. Understand what makes the plant tick. Can't do the math but at 32 plants hydro, 4k lights, I get 8-9lbs, not to mention only 7 days of veg.. Not sure if that sucks but I'm doing ok.
Click to expand...
What strain? If you don't mind me asking.
And i deff know how plants tick,IMG_2098.jpgIMG_2133.jpg I'm growing these skywalker OG in vitro.
 
asaph

asaph

Well-Known Member
chlorine in tap water harms the micro herd in soil, not the plants themselves, and it evaporates overnight.

your deficiency symptoms are more likely due to lockout (from too high cal perhaps).

your water is pretty hard, no need to add calmag.

it's not bad to "leech" salts out of the roots if your plant is mature, and only for a short while (24 hours maybe). However, I've been told that a small quantity of salts in the flushing water is better for this purpose, as it gives the water some electrical charge and allows it to "pull" the excess salts from the medium and the roots. I don't know if this is true.

Some while after flushing, feed your plants a moderate amount of nutrients, so that they are not left hungry.
 
303

303

Well-Known Member
asaph said:
chlorine in tap water harms the micro herd in soil, not the plants themselves, and it evaporates overnight.

your deficiency symptoms are more likely due to lockout (from too high cal perhaps).

your water is pretty hard, no need to add calmag.

it's not bad to "leech" salts out of the roots if your plant is mature, and only for a short while (24 hours maybe). However, I've been told that a small quantity of salts in the flushing water is better for this purpose, as it gives the water some electrical charge and allows it to "pull" the excess salts from the medium and the roots. I don't know if this is true.

Some while after flushing, feed your plants a moderate amount of nutrients, so that they are not left hungry.
Click to expand...
I read a post from Uncle Ben saying that leaving the water for 24 hours is a myth. After that I stopped doing it..
 
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