Mg and K look the same?

To me, both mg and K difficiency look the same. I have added both more mg and K to my feedings but nothing has changed. Which leads me to believe that I need to test and perhaps adjust the Ph of my water. Can anyone offer any info/ advice. Im in 707 roots soil, and feed with EWC tea with rock dust, kelp meal, Alaskan hummus.

Long time lurker here. Finally signed up to view more pictures and ask for advice... Thanks in advance.

Im leaning on P with that one, its a tricky one because the feed looks high but from what you posted, it seems your soil mix is N & K dominant.

Hope this helps.

You really need to know pH at least. Also is the plant in veg or flower. Is the problem starting from lower older leaves first

Mg looks alot different ime,yellowing between veins.Having delt with what you have in my rdwc before only thing that helped was to lower EC.Probably doesn't help you since your in dirt.The dark green says it has lots .My hats goes off to you guys in dirt,more patience then I have.

ebcrew said:

You really need to know pH at least. Also is the plant in veg or flower. Is the problem starting from lower older leaves first

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Thanks for a response. It appears to be mostly only on the top canopy leaves. The plants are currently in the 3rd day of flower, but this was happening the week before I did the light flip. Here is another picture

Top pic looks like P and the other pic looks like K

Can you take some pictures of the whole plant. A lot of the time deficiencies are pH problems

Over fert.

polishpollack said:

Over fert.

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I got some pH test strips and found out my water was at aroung 5.5pH. So I added some blue GH pH up to get it at what appears to be 6.7

What's in the blue pH up stuff? Can my plants still be considered grown organicly?

Also, a couple days ago I did add some 'nectar of the gods' samples that I had laying around with both P and K in them, thinking it might take care of the original leaf discoloration. Which now I may be learning is a pH problem rather than a deficiency. And now, due to my attempt to take care of a deficiency,,, an over fert problem ? ?

pH is driven by fertilizer. If you have over ferted, as it appears to be, you can't make the soil better by adjusting the pH. You always have to be careful how much fert you give. a super soil recipe tends to be just a water it and leave it kind of thing, much easier to live with. I think kelp is about adding hormones. You have to go real easy on anything that is hormones. too strong.

Nematoad said:

I got some pH test strips and found out my water was at aroung 5.5pH. So I added some blue GH pH up to get it at what appears to be 6.7

What's in the blue pH up stuff? Can my plants still be considered grown organicly?

Also, a couple days ago I did add some 'nectar of the gods' samples that I had laying around with both P and K in them, thinking it might take care of the original leaf discoloration. Which now I may be learning is a pH problem rather than a deficiency. And now, due to my attempt to take care of a deficiency,,, an over fert problem ? ?

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You sure the water source is ph5.5? I'd get it tested if that's true.
Is it from a well or something?

I've never had to ph water for soil, only because it's always been close to neutral.
If for instance the water was sulphurous, it could potentially affect the ph over time. Water naturally sitting at ph5.5 might have unwanted bacteria as well.

I'm not immediately suggesting the water source is the culprit, the plants are a fair size and pretty healthy really.

If all else fails, i'd definitely consider it a possibility. Check the ph of the soil itself as well, using a soil sample. If it's way low, a little sprinkle lime wouldn't hurt imho. There's deficiency of a few things, which if not from overfeeding, I think is ph related.

Edit: if it's RO nothing to worry about.

When it's the top leaves acting up then it's immobile/micronutrients causing the issue. pH out of whack is often the cause of that tho unbalanced nutrients can also cause lockouts.

Looks very similar to an issue I had a while back that I figured was low boron so added some boric acid I got from the drug store and it cleared up.

Nematoad said:

What's in the blue pH up stuff? Can my plants still be considered grown organicly?

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Generally it's potassium hydroxide in pH up. At least it is in mine. Organic, schmorganic. It's just another inorganic mineral salt of which the bacteria in your soil make many of so I wouldn't worry about it. Hydro nutes are a bunch of different mineral salts too and what your plants eat even in organic only soils.

I've been thinking that organic just means "derived from a life form, like bacteria," as opposed to a lab.

Organics are carbon based molecules like life. Mineral salts are created by nature, mine and sold as fertilizer. Bacteria and fungi break down organic matter and turn it into mineral salts that your plant eats to grow. Chemically they are exactly the same and your plants don't care where it comes from. People call them 'chemical' fertilizers like it was a bogey man or something.

When I think of organic for things I consume I'm thinking that it hasn't been sprayed with the real bogey man chemicals like Roundup and other toxic crap. Even non-GMO crops like wheat are sprayed with that shit so what are we supposed to eat! lol

Whatever works is best.

I think the whole "my weed is better weed, because" is the wrong argument. Plants respond well to both.

Imho though, there is a big difference between a "nutrient" and a "fertilizer". Fertilizer is fertility for the land, not so much nutrient for the plant.
Organics, especially organic material that isn't out of a bottle, is adding fertility to the soil and is aiding to create life itself. After all carbon is the "major ingredient to life" as they say.

Both organic and synthetic have their place.
Is it still an organic grow using a little ph up? Hell yes, it's hypocritical to say otherwise. Tap water is no different really and plenty of organic gardens get the hose.

Nematoad said:

I got some pH test strips and found out my water was at aroung 5.5pH. So I added some blue GH pH up to get it at what appears to be 6.7

What's in the blue pH up stuff? Can my plants still be considered grown organicly?

Also, a couple days ago I did add some 'nectar of the gods' samples that I had laying around with both P and K in them, thinking it might take care of the original leaf discoloration. Which now I may be learning is a pH problem rather than a deficiency. And now, due to my attempt to take care of a deficiency,,, an over fert problem ? ?

Click to expand...

The NFTG nutes are driven by calcium. Its just a different fertigation method but those nutes generally need a ph of 6.5+ regardless of medium.
And pH is simply the gauge/measurement of the hydrogen-ion concentration.
Its common to overfeed by adding too many inputs/additives but often what happens is a negative ion reaction with you elements.
Too much Cal limits the availability of K, in the same way that too much exchangeable K limits the availability of Mag.
Overferting is a simplified answer but doesn't really explain what, why, or how. It comes down to CEC regardless of "organic" or hydro.
Sticking will a well balanced base is the way to go. Dial that in before moving onto additives. Its also advisable to stick with one line.
pH'd water for a few days see how they respond. Then give just your base nutes at 1/4 strength. No teas, no additives.

Also meant to add that 707 is peat based. When peat becomes oversaturated it can cause the pH do dive. Just something else to keep in mind.

Unless the OP puts up exactly what's the nutrients and how much it's used, it's impossible to say what the problem might be. Usually, when you have a set of leaves that are mostly green, but starting to brown and die in some areas, it means too much of some fert. Or it could be repeated use of kelp.

Hey All. I think ive been cursed by not thanking y'all enuf when people came thru with good advice the last time I asked. My problem did clear up.... Until this one popped up last week! 4 weeks into flower and all the leaves are going yellow. Ive been consistently giving them a tea of EWC, molasses, and bone char for phosphorus. And this is happening. Funny (not funny) thing is... I have a sea of green going under another 600w HPS and I feed with the same tea, they are doing wonderfully!

Is this a nitrogen deficiency? This far into flower?
Any and all speculations and suggestions are welcome. And thank you all in advance.

I lurked hard for the better half of a year in 2008 on this sight at the library (before the internet made it to the cell phone!) And learned a great deal, was so happy to see it still up and running when I am trying to grow again. Very impressed with how helpful people are with eachother and how people resolve issues. I do feel bad for not thanking all the helpful hints I got the last time a problem came up, and not giving an update. Here's my update, I need advice!!

growing is all trial by fire, learn as you go. its been pretty much a decade since i was on here learning and absorbing. had a few gorilla grows and projects. best advice i can give is keep track of what you give your plants.
organic can be good but it comes at a cost, mostly compost soil and ingredients that break down slowly can throw everything off balance. always too much of one nutrient and not enough of another. plants are pretty forgiving but there is alot to take into consideration.

1, dont over fert, add in increments.
2, when going from veg to budding phase, give a flush of fresh water, before adding a flush of high phosphorous/budding nutes.
3, if unsure if you have ph problems and no test instruments (which i never had years ago) flush with fresh water with few drops of vinegar added and other nutrients you are using.
4, always keep track of what you gave your plants, best to avoid high amounts of natural soil additives, maybe the kelp you added has alot of other nutes in it thats not listed.
5, if growing the same strain have one plant you give more nutes to, test for tolerances.