Medical-2000W--sealed room-CO2-Ebb & Flo-PK,Mango,Papaya, Orange Crush Deisel

#1Raiderfan420

Well-Known Member
It's kind of crazy, I am crossing my fingers that I don't run into any issues. Everything is going so smooth right now.
You know I knew I shouldn't have said anything, everytime I say everything is going smooth something goes wrong. Tonight I found a leaf with some PM so I started looking deaper into the canopy and sure enough it is a leaf here and there throughout the room on every strain. So, ' big sigh' now I get to try and battle powdery mildew for 3 and 1/2 weeks. I have some green cure, which I usually apply early in flower and in veg. I didn't this round for some reason..dumb ass. My humidity runs from 40% - 50% and I have major airflow( which is why the pm is scattered throughout the room. I am going to spray the green cure in the morning right before the lights shut off I guess. I don't want to spray them now with lights on. I have been reading and found some stuff called Eagle 20 that is systemic and kill the pm in the plant. Green cure claims the same thing, but I have heard that it only controls it in other threads. I am wondering now if my vegging girls have pm spores in them since I cloned right before the switch. I am so fuckin bummed right now. I haven't dealt with pm before, so this is a first for me. I know there are a lot of remiedies and I have read for hours on milk, baking soda etc, but I am hoping the green cure will get me through this run and I am thinking about ordering the eagle 20 for the babies. Anyone that has some real experience with pm, please share your experience( Bender) lol I know you have dealt with pm in your room, what worked best for you? How did you irraticate it from the strain?
Anyway, I was hoping for a great update, but hey I get to learn another lesson.
 

theloadeddragon

Well-Known Member
I mentioned the potassium bicarbonate already, but be careful with the concentration..... but nematodes is something you may want to think about as well. Both as introducing fungi such as powdery mildew, and acting as a predator against the introducing nematodes and powdery mildew itself (systemic). You mentioned it was just after you took clones. Did you seal the wounds on the plants? If not, the door was wide open ;). Green cure is a fairly effective product. Its efficacy is somewhat based on which type of PM you have there.

I would treat the clones your vegging as well. as a precaution. If your seeing the start of reproductive spore patches, the plants have already been infected for at least a week. Different kinds of PM reproduce and thrive in different climates, but none of them like freezing temps, ;). Lucky you've caught it now.... one spray treatment with additional climate control, and you may not see it return before harvest. The spores will sit all around in your room, so I wouldn't put another batch in until the room has been completely sanitized after you harvest. Sanitize, Freeze Out, Sanitize, and you should be good to go.

Neem oil is also a quick way to quarantine the spores and get them off the leaves surfaces as well.

Oh and tip- make sure to get in where the petioles meet the main stalk real good, ;).
 

bender420

Well-Known Member
Not even a worry Raider bro, dealing with PM should be no big issue, especially that you have a separate grow room now.

TLD covered pretty much everything. Here are some of my thoughts in a nutshell.

At this point your only two options are Green Cure and Potassium Bicarbonate. I tried all the various things you mentioned which you have been reading, green cure seems to keep the PM at bay for the most part, well at least for the strain of PM I have.

Your humidity seems to be in a very good range, but the humidity you are measuring is most likely the general RH, however the local humidity in the dense canopy region might be getting really high. I know you got a lot of air flow but if possible add some more fans on pointing to the sides of the canopy.

TLD covered all the precautionary issues, follow those and you will be good.

Your plants grew a lot more than suspected and the canopy density is probably the highest it has ever been before. I know you are too deep in the bloom for some canopy thinning, but for future that might be a good thing on top of lollipopping.

As long as you can keep the PM to a very low level you will be OK. When I first got it I thought it was the end of the world, but I have learned that every growers experiences it, most of the growers deal with it every grow.
 

theloadeddragon

Well-Known Member
Not even a worry Raider bro, dealing with PM should be no big issue, especially that you have a separate grow room now.

TLD covered pretty much everything. Here are some of my thoughts in a nutshell.

At this point your only two options are Green Cure and Potassium Bicarbonate. I tried all the various things you mentioned which you have been reading, green cure seems to keep the PM at bay for the most part, well at least for the strain of PM I have.

Your humidity seems to be in a very good range, but the humidity you are measuring is most likely the general RH, however the local humidity in the dense canopy region might be getting really high. I know you got a lot of air flow but if possible add some more fans on pointing to the sides of the canopy.

TLD covered all the precautionary issues, follow those and you will be good.

Your plants grew a lot more than suspected and the canopy density is probably the highest it has ever been before. I know you are too deep in the bloom for some canopy thinning, but for future that might be a good thing on top of lollipopping.

As long as you can keep the PM to a very low level you will be OK. When I first got it I thought it was the end of the world, but I have learned that every growers experiences it, most of the growers deal with it every grow.
Knew I forgot one of the essentials. ESSENTIAL. make way better use of your CO2 and red and far red spectral PAR.

so air is pulled down into the area you trimmed earlier in the grow some pointed towards the base of the plants, some angled up a bit more into the bottom layer of your canopy, the air currents will clash, mix, swirl, and its really an amazing thing my man.... when Im not so tired... I would like to write more about it, if you don't mind?
 

#1Raiderfan420

Well-Known Member
I mentioned the potassium bicarbonate already, but be careful with the concentration..... but nematodes is something you may want to think about as well. Both as introducing fungi such as powdery mildew, and acting as a predator against the introducing nematodes and powdery mildew itself (systemic). You mentioned it was just after you took clones. Did you seal the wounds on the plants? If not, the door was wide open ;). Green cure is a fairly effective product. Its efficacy is somewhat based on which type of PM you have there.

I would treat the clones your vegging as well. as a precaution. If your seeing the start of reproductive spore patches, the plants have already been infected for at least a week. Different kinds of PM reproduce and thrive in different climates, but none of them like freezing temps, ;). Lucky you've caught it now.... one spray treatment with additional climate control, and you may not see it return before harvest. The spores will sit all around in your room, so I wouldn't put another batch in until the room has been completely sanitized after you harvest. Sanitize, Freeze Out, Sanitize, and you should be good to go.

Neem oil is also a quick way to quarantine the spores and get them off the leaves surfaces as well.

Oh and tip- make sure to get in where the petioles meet the main stalk real good, ;).
Thank you for the advice. I just went down to spray before lights out and hot blacked out, so I will be going back down after my coffee with my green light.
One of the fears I have is getting the buds wet, but I guess I don't have choice tight?. I will hit them with the green cure for now and add a couple more fans. It's already like a wind tunnel in there. I will focus on petioles come off the stem. Thanks again tld , I can't count the times you have helped me out.
Not even a worry Raider bro, dealing with PM should be no big issue, especially that you have a separate grow room now.

TLD covered pretty much everything. Here are some of my thoughts in a nutshell.

At this point your only two options are Green Cure and Potassium Bicarbonate. I tried all the various things you mentioned which you have been reading, green cure seems to keep the PM at bay for the most part, well at least for the strain of PM I have.

Your humidity seems to be in a very good range, but the humidity you are measuring is most likely the general RH, however the local humidity in the dense canopy region might be getting really high. I know you got a lot of air flow but if possible add some more fans on pointing to the sides of the canopy.

TLD covered all the precautionary issues, follow those and you will be good.

Your plants grew a lot more than suspected and the canopy density is probably the highest it has ever been before. I know you are too deep in the bloom for some canopy thinning, but for future that might be a good thing on top of lollipopping.

As long as you can keep the PM to a very low level you will be OK. When I first got it I thought it was the end of the world, but I have learned that every growers experiences it, most of the growers deal with it every grow.
Than you my friend. I knew you had dealt with it. I the areas I found it is the dense part of the canopy. I thinned a lot canopy out a couple weeks ago, but have trying not remove more than necessary. Guess I should have stayed on it better. I don't like doing it, but I pulled a lot of big fan leaves more than a few inches from the top of the buds. I really would rather have a little stunting than have mildewy buds. How did your big buds deal with getting wet from treatments? It is weird, but the worst of the pm was right in front of one of m oscilating fans. I spent a couple hours this morning spraying, removing fans and supporting sagging buds. Those ocd really are starting to lean, so I put some stakes in and tied up some. I need to work on this more. There were a few buds that had leaned over and were almost on top of eachother. These things are so top heavy already it is nutz.

Knew I forgot one of the essentials. ESSENTIAL. make way better use of your CO2 and red and far red spectral PAR.

so air is pulled down into the area you trimmed earlier in the grow some pointed towards the base of the plants, some angled up a bit more into the bottom layer of your canopy, the air currents will clash, mix, swirl, and its really an amazing thing my man.... when Im not so tired... I would like to write more about it, if you don't mind?
Please do , I would love to hear more.
 

quickrip

Active Member
I dont know how this will help but I used eagle 20 for stem rot and it worked wonders. Ive heard that it does the same for pm.
 

#1Raiderfan420

Well-Known Member
:eyesmoke:
I dont know how this will help but I used eagle 20 for stem rot and it worked wonders. Ive heard that it does the same for pm.
Thanks for the info. I understand it works systemically so I thought I might use it on vegging plants just to make sure they don't have it.
Is that y your buds always so white in the pictures???
wtf, :confused:no dude those are called trichomes. I found a tiny bit on some lower leaves. If was on my buds I would have ready cut them down. Look back at a couple of my past grows if your not sure.
I dont think so.:lol:
lol
 

#1Raiderfan420

Well-Known Member
Ha ha, I get it. I am just wound a little tight right now, I should have figured that out without you telling me right?

I think the thing that brought in the pm is that the rw mini cubes don't dry out enough. There are way too many in the trays. I took out as much as I could without disturbing the roots. I think next time will be better with the 9 inch baskets. There be excess rw holding water . Lesson learned.
As for the pm, I sprayed this morning with the green cure. Tonight the hairs on the pk turned reddish brown. Some of the others has some of the same, but mostly the pk because it is the shortest, so it got treated more I guess. I will put up some pics in a bit.
 

sagensour

Active Member
I thought you would of gottin it. I hate mold. Never really had it on the buds, just leaves. If its under the canopy, cant u remove those affected leaves and then use a light baking soda spray?
 

#1Raiderfan420

Well-Known Member
Hey sorry for the lack of updates, but I have been crazy busy. I have been looking for eagle 20, but the local stores only have something called excel lg. I have been researching the product and thought I would share. This is a quote I found on another site that came from the company. just thought I would share with ya.

dongle69
Guest
Posts: n/a


I got this email from Organic Labs regarding the beneficials:

Exel LG does not have any adverse affects on mycorrhizae.
Please let the garden center employees know this because they
are giving out erroneous information. Below is the explanation on why this
is true:

1. Exel is derived from a substance called potassium phosphite. It has
phosphorous in it, but it is not in the traditional phosphate form. It is a
completely different molecule with totally different physical properties
than phosphates. I mention this because phosphate based fertilizers can
have a detrimental affect on mycorrhizae, so in the past, people have
thought that since Exel has some phosphorous in it, it must be detrimental
to the fungi. This is definitely not the case because Exel is
phosphate-free.
2. Since Exel is a fungicide, and mycorrhizae are fungus, some people infer
that this fungicide will have a detrimental affect when it contacts the
beneficial fungi. Exel does not work like traditional fungicides, and as
such, has no adverse affects on soil fungi. Exel works in two ways:
a. it stimulates defense responses and resistance to disease within
the plant, allowing the plant to fight off disease using it's own internal
defense mechanisms. Therefore, the fungicide has no direct toxic effects on
fungi, it instead stimulates the plant to defeat the disease.
b. when certain diseases such as phytopthora (root rot) consume
Exel, they cannot metabolize this form of phosphorous and they die as a
result.

In other words, Exel is not a contact or toxicological fungicide. It does
not work by directly killing fungi. Some people have recommended to drench
Exel LG solutions in the soil before planting to "sterilize" the soil or to
kill pathogenic fungi: this will do nothing. Exel must work within the
plant in order to be effective. In other words, Exel is like a flu shot for
plants, the chemical in a flu shot does not directly kill the flu virus, it
is only when it is injected into a person that it does it's magic. The
difference here is that the flu shot is only preventative, whereas Exel is
preventative and curative.

Therefore, Exel is very safe on beneficial fungi, yet effective at diseases
such as root rots, cankers, scabs, and also effective at remedying general
plant decline caused by environmental stress.

If you have any other questions, please call me.

Thanks,
Mike

Mike Williams
Vice President, Sales & Marketing
Organic Laboratories / Terra Nova Turf
772-286-5581
www.organiclabs.com
 

notoriousb

Well-Known Member
sorry to hear about the PM man. I know what a kick in the teeth that shit can be, especially when you first find it :wall:
Im not taking any chances with my next grows and after a multiple times of forum cruising and countless clicked links, I decided to go with Eagle20.the active ingredient is "myclobutanil" and everyone who uses it says it works as an eradictant with one application when they're still small clones then one more before putting them into bloom, not just a precautionary or temporary fix spray. Im ordering mine tomorrow.
this is the thread that sold me on it- http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=161425
 

#1Raiderfan420

Well-Known Member
sorry to hear about the PM man. I know what a kick in the teeth that shit can be, especially when you first find it :wall:
Im not taking any chances with my next grows and after a multiple times of forum cruising and countless clicked links, I decided to go with Eagle20.the active ingredient is "myclobutanil" and everyone who uses it says it works as an eradictant with one application when they're still small clones then one more before putting them into bloom, not just a precautionary or temporary fix spray. Im ordering mine tomorrow.
this is the thread that sold me on it- http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=161425
yea, I am ordering some too. The shit is supposed to be the real deal. I am treating my vegging plants with the exel lg though, becuase I want to treat them right away just to be safe. I am hoping that I don't see pm again after this grow as I have been running without it for almost a year, but hey, you can't be to careful man. I haven't found any more in my flower room after the green cure, but I know it will only supress it for a while from what I understand. I only spotted it on about 4 or 5 leaves and it was just very small spots so I think I caught it right away. I will probably be pulling them a little early though just to be on the safe side. I think the cause could have been the ac. The leaves I didi find were right in front of where the ac is directed toward the canopy. I am going to redirect the air so it doesn't blow into the canopy anymore.

Anyway here are some pic updates.
I drained reservoirs and dropped the ppms back down to 900. I decided to skip the shooting powder this round because I am planning on moving up my harvest date by a week. The trichomes are turning milky already. I have read that co2 speeds things up. I will start tapering down my nutes now. The mango has finished without co2 at 7 weeks so I want to be ready if I have to start flushing early. To be honest I want to take them all out as soon as I can so I can bleach my room and get the next round started. You will notice the pk hairs got hunt from the green cure, but I am sure they will be fine. Thrichs look good and healthy.
I am just about to to put the 4" rw cubes the 9 inch baskets of croutons. I have just been waiting so they dont get to crowded, but I think it is just about time. I will soak the croutons in the same nutrient and ph the veg trays have been getting.

Mango



OCD


PK


How the girls in the veg room are looking


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notoriousb

Well-Known Member
let me know how the exel works because Im torn between both eagle and exel now. Exel's a lottt cheaper but it just looks like another hydro store gimmick fungicide. not trying to knock what your buddies said, but it seems like a product that would only suppress it and not kill the PM from the inside out like Eagle. Im just at that point when it comes to pests or disease I dont want to fuck around and just want to stop it dead and if Eagle is a little more chemically but does just that, that's fine for me especially since it only stays in the plant for 28 days. I wouldnt use the Eagle on flowering plants though unless they were only a week or so in. been reading a lot about PM and the different kinds of fungicides and active ingredients in each one(sure you have been too since your recent discovery ;-)) and Eagle seems to take it. im gonna take a hit and keep reading tho lol sorry for the ramble, Im just so over this PM bull
 

#1Raiderfan420

Well-Known Member
You are my idol! I bow to your greatness...this is setup is what dreams are made of.
Thank you for the props man.
They still look great PM or not.
Thanks integra I really appreciate it.
let me know how the exel works because Im torn between both eagle and exel now. Exel's a lottt cheaper but it just looks like another hydro store gimmick fungicide. not trying to knock what your buddies said, but it seems like a product that would only suppress it and not kill the PM from the inside out like Eagle. Im just at that point when it comes to pests or disease I dont want to fuck around and just want to stop it dead and if Eagle is a little more chemically but does just that, that's fine for me especially since it only stays in the plant for 28 days. I wouldnt use the Eagle on flowering plants though unless they were only a week or so in. been reading a lot about PM and the different kinds of fungicides and active ingredients in each one(sure you have been too since your recent discovery ;-)) and Eagle seems to take it. im gonna take a hit and keep reading tho lol sorry for the ramble, Im just so over this PM bull
You know I have beeen doing the same thing as you and reading and reading. Excel is systemic as well, whihc means it will work from inside the plant. I have actually read that if the plants has it in it, you are never going to get rid of it. you will just keep it from progressing to the blooming white spores you see on the leaves. I am really hoping that this shit developed in my room this fower round, because that would mean the clones are clean. I had two nights where I had a circuit pop and my ac and dehum both shut off. When I woke the humidity read 95% and the temps were 98. I fixed the issue that caused the thrown breaker, but I don't know how long the room was that high in humidity. I have read that it can develop in a matter of hours. That being said, the excel hasn't been used as much as the eagle 20 in forums, but If you search hard enough, there are alot of folks that swear by the exel as well. The eagle 20 is supposed to be much harsher, but I am like you, if you have pm , you will do what ever to get rid of it. There is nothing worse than something attacking your beautiful work from the inside of your plant cells. I would be using the eagle 20 if I could just have picked it up locally. My buddy at the hydro store actually said he can't tell me much about the exel, but that a customer asked him to order it( an experineced grower) and he has had positive feedback. So I am hoping it works for sure. Anyway, now I am rambling lol
 
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