Mau5Capades: builds & grow journal

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
right now I'm building a 400w CXB3590 fixture and I'm trying to figure out what 5w diodes to buy to add 10w of deep red, 10w of deep blue, 10w of regular red, 10w of regular blue, and 10w of usb(if i can find the diodes)

I'm hoping this will boost my super dank to ultra super dank
Speaking as the owner operator of some of those same chips, I'd suggest just running the CXB3590 on its own first. If nothing else you'll have an important baseline from which to measure any improvements made with the monos in either yield or punch.

The other reason I say this is because once you've seen how well these chips work on their own, you may decide not to bother.
 

Thorhax

Well-Known Member
Speaking as the owner operator of some of those same chips, I'd suggest just running the CXB3590 on its own first. If nothing else you'll have an important baseline from which to measure any improvements made with the monos in either yield or punch.

The other reason I say this is because once you've seen how well these chips work on their own, you may decide not to bother.
I've seen many grows and have a couple years of diy builds to know I'm going to get amazing results without color and usb help. but i want that extra punch. if i can increase my thc and cannabinoid levels by 2-3% ill be happy
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
they have a great lot to choose from. thanks for the guidance
No problem. You keep typing USB. You mean UVB right?
There's a lot of controversy on whether it's that beneficial or not. I personally think it is. But I juSt wish there was a mono we could all use that gave good UVB emittance. But there's just not yet.
 

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
Tell us more about what you got going on with Cutter. Cmon mate spill the beans :lol:
I emailed mark over at cutter and commended him on the great job he is already doing for our community making pairings like this.
http://cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut2854

I asked him to take it a step further and suggested he have one of his passive heatsink suppliers CNC drill and tap the sinks to accept some of the popular COBs that we use.
We will throw my moniker on it & ill talk about it in some videos to help throw some more business his way. I think it will be great for everyone and lower the barrier to entry for all the people that see how powerful COB grows are, but are too intimidated to get into DIY.

Cheers
 

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
@hyroot thanks for the kind words brother. Are you still using / liking your plasma light? If so, I would love to sneak some footage from you , and some of your insight. There are some new plasma led combo lights hitting the market and people are asking about them.

@skorchem One thing I failed to mention on Dude Grows, was that adding every color in the rainbow is not necessarily the best use of money and dissipation. B-carotene loves 500nm "early cyan" and lycopene loves green light, but that doesnt mean its worth it specifically supplement mono diodes in those ranges. The most beneficial type of light to our plants is more photons, up to the diminishing returns point ~1000-1100 PPFD. And the most efficient way to create photons is with COBs. discussed in depth HERE
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
@hyroot thanks for the kind words brother. Are you still using / liking your plasma light? If so, I would love to sneak some footage from you , and some of your insight. There are some new plasma led combo lights hitting the market and people are asking about them.


I've never used plasma. I have been running induction / led combos for the past few years from Inda Gro
 

BuddyColas

Well-Known Member
The most accurate way to tell the current you are running to a cob or cob string is to put an amp meter in series. Make sure you hook it up with the power off. That is the most accurate. I tried to correlate the amps to the control lead voltage...like you are asking...and every time I put my Fluke meter on the leads the brightness would change. That way did not work for me.
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
You know what I was saying about UV before, that UV-A alone may increase potency? Well a couple blacklight CFLs did seem like it may have increased it slightly but it still doesn't seem as potent as it should be, and could even be the same as with no UV for all I know. It's hard to tell subjectively. So anyway now I have to bite the bullet and buy a couple reptile lights to get some actual UV-B and see how that works out. The article I linked earlier about UV did say that UV-A reduces damage done by UV-B though, so apparently it's best to have both. A reptile light also puts out white light so I'll also benefit from a little extra PAR.

The downside of course is the high price of reptile CFLs and the fact that the UV-B drops off so fast that you have to replace them about every 6 months. Oh well, if it makes the difference between mediocre and premium then it'll be worth it. White LED would be good for growing the most weight of vegetable matter but it's not great for production of secondary compounds, like cannabinoids. You'll just get a lot of weak product, something like with original Big Bud.
 

Norcalknugs

Well-Known Member
I have a reefkeeper lite from my fish tank keeping days with their advanced light controller. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/reefkeeper-lite-basic-digital-aquatics.html
It does 0-10v dimming. Only trouble is only have 1 plug for it at the moment. Could I ago 2 mean well drivers to the single dimming lead? Sorry for asking this in your thread @Growmau5 but you seem very knowledgeable and your thread gets a whole lot more traffic than mine does lol. Thanks in advance.
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
I have a reefkeeper lite from my fish tank keeping days with their advanced light controller. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/reefkeeper-lite-basic-digital-aquatics.html
It does 0-10v dimming. Only trouble is only have 1 plug for it at the moment. Could I ago 2 mean well drivers to the single dimming lead? Sorry for asking this in your thread @Growmau5 but you seem very knowledgeable and your thread gets a whole lot more traffic than mine does lol. Thanks in advance.
Maybe you can. It'd be pretty inconvenient if you needed a separate dimmer for every fixture in a building so there must be a way to do that.
 
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Norcalknugs

Well-Known Member
I know you asked GM but I'm pretty sure you can't connect two drivers to a single dimmer, if that's what you meant. You'd have 0-20v then, I would think.
Thanks for the response. The question was not directed at only growmau5, I am open to hearing all opinions. Anyone know what this connection is called. Does not appear digital aquatics sells them on their own.1455988321771-2334664.jpg
 
The most accurate way to tell the current you are running to a cob or cob string is to put an amp meter in series. Make sure you hook it up with the power off. That is the most accurate. I tried to correlate the amps to the control lead voltage...like you are asking...and every time I put my Fluke meter on the leads the brightness would change. That way did not work for me.
Ah, I see. Do you mean something like this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-56-DC-0-1A-10A-50A-100A-Ammeter-LED-Panel-Amp-Meter-Digital-Gauge-Display-F-/161334234219?var=&hash=item2590450c6b:m:m3_55vwolcbV-zkB1C1IWzw
 
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