Mau5Capades: builds & grow journal

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
if you took the time to actually read the specs and did a little research you would realize that these fans are in the same class as the noctua fans, and have higher static pressures than a noctua. The nexus fan doesn't even compare with a cfm at almost half of the hyperborea.


One of these is capable of cooling a 48" long 5.886" wide profile all by itself.
Well I'm using 2 per 30" so they oughtta work just fine.
 

flexy123

Well-Known Member
Why are folks always recommending the B version drivers?
I got a A version 240W 1750mA with the internal pot and I think it's totally fine.
Why do you go through the hassles with connecting pots etc. if there's already one there? For the wider dimming range? (The one I have with the internal pot goes from 850mA to 1750mA, so 50-100%)
 

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
Why are folks always recommending the B version drivers?
I got a A version 240W 1750mA with the internal pot and I think it's totally fine.
Why do you go through the hassles with connecting pots etc. if there's already one there? For the wider dimming range? (The one I have with the internal pot goes from 850mA to 1750mA by the way, totally fine for me)
There are a few reason, many to most of them, just personal choice.
-Wider dimming range,
-Connect multiple drivers to one knob
-Cool knob options(aluminum, anodized, gold...)
-Use of PWM and automated controllers(sunrise/sunset programs, high heat power down)
-Not have to get on top of the driver and use a little screwdriver like the A...external of the room even/ease of access.
-Cause that's what people they are following used

If someone considers installing a pot a hassle...than it's clearly not for them. It should not be a deterrent, if they installed the driver, they can do the pot in 10 seconds. It's just a choice.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Because it's 2 wires you solderand heatshrink
Why are folks always recommending the B version drivers?
I got a A version 240W 1750mA with the internal pot and I think it's totally fine.
Why do you go through the hassles with connecting pots etc. if there's already one there? For the wider dimming range? (The one I have with the internal pot goes from 850mA to 1750mA, so 50-100%)
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
sure but you asked about 140mm fans and I showed you a really sweet price\performance point.

WHY DONT YOU READ THE FRIGGIN SPECS AND TRY TO UNDERSTAND ?
Are you saying thosee $14 fan ARE a good price? If I was buying 1 or 2 ya. But dude I need 6.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
these are more than two times the performance of the nexus fan. look at CFM and static head pressure.
I realize that man. But I need to use 2 so I don't have it on top of a cob directly above that hot spot. So that's why I'll just use 2 and get the same power as I would with your 1. And save $10. Or $66 if I used 6 of them.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
I'm using 30" 5.886 with 3 Cobs on them. So one will be right in the center you see. Unlike a 4 cob where you could use that fan in the center and it would work great.
 

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
It'll be right above a cob :/
so what ? it will run a bit cooler than the other two, which is better.

on the other hand why are you doing 30" with three cobs ? go longer, maybe 3feet to a meter and do 4 cobs and use just one quality fan .....

its called creative thinking :)
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Because I'm doing 9 cobs. I want a spread so they're on L rails to be 30x36. Each 3 cobbed HS on a 240-2100 equivalent pairui lgsu250-2100.
 

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
Like this. Terrible drawing. I was just trying a few spots to mount my drivers.
under those parameters I would build two 40" (about 1 meter long) heatsink bars with 4 cobs on each, and use one hlg-185H-c on each heatsink bar. (have the heatsinks go the long way, not the short way). that will give you essentially the same evenly distributed coverage.

1 heatsink, 1 hlg driver, 1 fan .... get it ?
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Why are folks always recommending the B version drivers?
I got a A version 240W 1750mA with the internal pot and I think it's totally fine.
Why do you go through the hassles with connecting pots etc. if there's already one there? For the wider dimming range? (The one I have with the internal pot goes from 850mA to 1750mA, so 50-100%)
For me, I'm keeping my options open for automated dimming in the future.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
^ For me, I am putting my drivers in the attic. The B will let me use a dimming panel in my room, but keep all the driver heat outside. Plus it would be harder to dim if I had to climb on a ladder every time I what to change them.
What driver heat? Serious question; can you quantify?
 
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