Making a bud look delicious

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Mr.I

Active Member
SayWord said:
ok, so besides molasses my advice for you would be:

GRAVITY by humboldt's own. i just bought a bottle today, havent used it yet but have read over and over about how it makes ur buds rock hard and fattens them up.

UVB bulb. i just bought one of these today too. lol. theres a thread in the advanced cultivation thread. check it out. its less than 20 bucks at your local pet store. get the 10.0 and like 20 or 26 watts. tell them u have a bearded dragon if they ask.
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uvb sounds good, i'm afraid to use it without a timer, because uvb is still harmful to plants, and say the budsite will get a burn that might slow down the plant. thats ultimately is something i'm going to add, when i decide how i will manage the timer on the lights i will have to get separate ballast for uvb.

or do you think leaving 20w uvb would be ok for 12 hours about four inches away from tops? how do you do it?
 
M

Mr.I

Active Member
if i got some yellowing of leaves starting form the bottom in the middle up.. all are fan leaves.. thats nitrogen deficiency? there's not much of it.. actually it even helps.. the light penetrates much better now, i had lots of vegetative growth during veg phase. doesn't the plant use nitrogen to build buds?
 
SayWord

SayWord

Well-Known Member
Mr.I said:
uvb sounds good, i'm afraid to use it without a timer, because uvb is still harmful to plants, and say the budsite will get a burn that might slow down the plant. thats ultimately is something i'm going to add, when i decide how i will manage the timer on the lights i will have to get separate ballast for uvb.

or do you think leaving 20w uvb would be ok for 12 hours about four inches away from tops? how do you do it?
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that cfl in the middle is a 26w uvb.
 
D

doctorchaos555

Active Member
buffalosoulja said:
From what I understand about molasses is that is feeds the microorganisms in the soil that in turn release valuable o2 and other nutrients to our lovely ladies. All in all in would not hurt to add. I add it with my tea, and just water and molasses. Hope this helps.

By the way nice buds.
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Does the plant really want more O2?



As a chem major in college, I'd like to know how molasses helps as well. What kind of nutes does it release? What kind of microorganisms does it feed? Do these microorganisms already live in the soil?
 
F

fdd2blk

Well-Known Member
Mr.I said:
sounds good, seems like thats what i'm doing i gave them molasses.. which is essentially same as floranectar.. just read about it.. molasses got same ingridients the only difference is that molasses is organic. the temps go down to 66-69F during the night time.. so yeah, they are very very sticky already..
its a good point though, thanks, i didn't know about it, and i'm already doing it

umm.. LED.. they work. one day i'll bring this question back its just i need to test the light i designed myself. actually i designed it quite a long time ago, i really needed to learn all tricks of plant's behavior before i go any further.


but my question stiil stays, how to make the bud explode from the inside ... it looks on the picture like each of these hairs or pistils got full pocket behind it..
my buds are covered in trichomes but look a bit more leafy. or maybe its too early to say, i have to wait and see what comes out by day 64. so far its been only 32 days :)))
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the pictures you see are of plants grown under HPS. to get buds like that you need to grow under HPS. plain and simple. :weed:
 
M

Mr.I

Active Member
fdd2blk said:
the pictures you see are of plants grown under HPS. to get buds like that you need to grow under HPS. plain and simple. :weed:
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the intensity of light then, but i got around 10000 lumens in there per sq foot and thats evenly sperad out around the plant too. no light escapes from there everything gets eaten up by the plants.
i understand what you are saying, and agree with you on that. i wish i could put each plant into an HPS bulb on its own lol

but tell me, the HPS, doesn't it make the plant strech out? if i could do veg with blue and then HPS wouldn't that increase the bud size and density overall? considering the internode space is closer together.
 
F

fdd2blk

Well-Known Member
Mr.I said:
the intensity of light then, but i got around 10000 lumens in there per sq foot and thats evenly sperad out around the plant too. no light escapes from there everything gets eaten up by the plants.
i understand what you are saying, and agree with you on that. i wish i could put each plant into an HPS bulb on its own lol

but tell me, the HPS, doesn't it make the plant strech out? if i could do veg with blue and then HPS wouldn't that increase the bud size and density overall? considering the internode space is closer together.
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no, HPS does not cause stretch, unless you have them too high. but this will happen with any light.

metal halide for vegging. HPS for flowering. :weed:
 
SenorSanteria

SenorSanteria

Well-Known Member
fdd2blk said:
no, HPS does not cause stretch, unless you have them too high. but this will happen with any light.

metal halide for vegging. HPS for flowering. :weed:
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If HPS does not cause stretching during veg, why is Metal Halide that much better? What differences would be noticed in an HPS grow from veg to flower, versus a grow with MH for veg and HPS for flower?
 
M

Mr.I

Active Member
thats what i'm talking about..... :) its true though you get many more lumens from an HPS for the energy consumed.
 
B

born2killspam

Well-Known Member
HPS is better for 2 reasons.. First of all, a typical HPS provides the vast majoritity of its light at ~650nm which is right about at the peak wavelength for overall photosynthetic efficiency..
The second reason is due to the physics of light.. Plants don't care about lumens or Watts as we talk about them, they care about active photon counts.. Photon counts are typically measured in a unit called microEinsteins.. (An Einstein is a mole of photons btw)..
Anyways, one of Einsteins accomplishment was in quantizing the amount of energy in a photon.. E=h/wavelength.. As can be seen from that, as the wavelength increases, the energy decreases..
Watts are Joules/second (and Joules are a unit of energy).. So following that logic, 600W of light from an HPS which has an average wavelength of maybe 1.5x the average MH wavelength will provide 1.5x the number of photons than equal wattage of MH light.. Lower energy photons will not convert as much unused energy to heat within the leaf as well..
Beyond that there are hormonal complexities etc where certain plant responses trigger best with light that mimicks the seasonal natural spectrum, heck even the angle of irradience can apparently alter response, but as long as basic needs are met, aspects like that obviously aren't critical.. Personally I'm a big fan of having MH running in the flower room with HPS though.. I swear the quality is improved overall..
 
F

fdd2blk

Well-Known Member
SenorSanteria said:
If HPS does not cause stretching during veg, why is Metal Halide that much better? What differences would be noticed in an HPS grow from veg to flower, versus a grow with MH for veg and HPS for flower?
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metal halide for vegging. :-P or an enhanced HPS bulb. i used "eye hortilux" HPS for vegging. they have some blue in them.
 
SenorSanteria

SenorSanteria

Well-Known Member
fdd2blk said:
metal halide for vegging. :-P or an enhanced HPS bulb. i used "eye hortilux" HPS for vegging. they have some blue in them.
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Right, but you didnt answer my question. I know MH IS better for veg. Im asking: why? I know the plant can use the blue light better for veg and it mimics springtime, blah blah blah. But why is MH chosen over HPS if the HPS doesnt cause stretching? What other reason would there be that would make enough of a difference to run a MH?

Lets say you have a veg chamber and a flower room. Why would it be more effective to run MH in one room and HPS in another INSTEAD OF HPS in both rooms, one on 24hr light and one on 12 hours?
 
B

born2killspam

Well-Known Member
Don't forget there are multiple pigments/chlorophyls, and light reactive hormones, and they don't all respond equally to various wavelengths..
 
F

fdd2blk

Well-Known Member
SenorSanteria said:
Right, but you didnt answer my question. I know MH IS better for veg. Im asking: why? I know the plant can use the blue light better for veg and it mimics springtime, blah blah blah. But why is MH chosen over HPS if the HPS doesnt cause stretching? What other reason would there be that would make enough of a difference to run a MH?

Lets say you have a veg chamber and a flower room. Why would it be more effective to run MH in one room and HPS in another INSTEAD OF HPS in both rooms, one on 24hr light and one on 12 hours?
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MH put out blue which is needed during vegging. HPS put out reds which are needed for flowering. if you are only vegging for a week or two then i think enhanced HPS are ok. a lot of people start from clones and only have one room. people i know buy 50 clones, they put them under 1000 watts of enhanced HPS for a week or two of 18/6 then they add a second 1000 watts and flip them to 12/12.

if you are going to run two rooms i would use MH in veg and HPS in the flower.
 
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