Low Stress Training (LST) Guide

Skoad

Well-Known Member
Check out my LST job and let me know what you think
Showoff! Haha.. srsly tho, amazing job. I can only hope that when I try LST it turns out half as good as that. Your first picture is awesome, looks like a bouquet you would give you your lady.
 

K21701

Active Member
Showoff! Haha.. srsly tho, amazing job. I can only hope that when I try LST it turns out half as good as that. Your first picture is awesome, looks like a bouquet you would give you your lady.
Lady here in need of a bouquet like that!!!!! lol
 

dr green dre

Well-Known Member
Check out my LST job and let me know what you think
Now thats a job done good.. looks wierd in a good way .. i call that a perfect plant bro well done ..

heres some of my own lst... last pic is the only one done like that the rest were done by hand daily, think i,ll be tying down a few now..
SAM_3685.jpgSAM_3749.jpgSAM_3653.jpg
 

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lochem

Well-Known Member
damn!
nice lst job Happygrowing
+rep
lol at all the strings :P
i like wire coat hangers
looks great
ye know... ive found that the wire hangers tend to pop out of the soil/medium because they just cant stay in there with the strength of the branch pulling back up...
 

lochem

Well-Known Member
hey happygrowing86 your plants look beautiful. well done. wish i had that goin on
looks like youre almost up to harvesting, thats what i call the fruits of your labor! well done once more!
 

Rollbluntz

Well-Known Member
ye know... ive found that the wire hangers tend to pop out of the soil/medium because they just cant stay in there with the strength of the branch pulling back up...
Yeah I used to have this problem but as longas you leave enough roomfor your hanger to be pushed kind of deep into the soil, it shouldn't be a problem
 

mcpurple

Well-Known Member
ye know... ive found that the wire hangers tend to pop out of the soil/medium because they just cant stay in there with the strength of the branch pulling back up...
dont place them in the soil pop small holes in the pot rim and connect thier
 

HappyGrowing86

Well-Known Member
The full how-to please!
damn the full how to huh... Well here ya go better get some +rep for this

Size: 3.5 ft X 3.5 ft mylar lined on three sides, open on front, white plastic board on floor

Veg lights: 400mh + 250 hps - 650 total veg watts
Flwr lights: 400hps + 250 mh + 8 - 26w 4200K cfls + 8 - 26w 2400K cfls = 1066 flowering watts
Lighting Schedual :
Clones - 24 hours (No HID lamps)
Vegetative - 20 hours
Flowering - 12 hrs (last two weeks of flowering 13 hrs)

Hood: Sun Systems air cooled hood w/ custom 16 socket cfl bracket

Cooling: Hood is cooled with a industrial heater fan mounted in a acoustic foam lined box - Absolutely Silent
Plants have a .25 hp industrial fan w/ a dimmer switch hooked up to the cord to adjust power.

Nutrients: Advanced Nutrients - Micro, Grow, Bloom ; Voodoo Juice ; Sensizyme ; Bud Blood
Humbolt County's Own - Snow Storm ; Gravity
Cloning Gel - Rootech cloning gel

Growing medium: I start clones in 3x3 rockwool cubes. Soil is 6 part mix that i make. perlite, kentucky riverbottom loam, worm castings, bat guano, a organic soil base that a local nursery sells

Odor control - custom build powered filter box (totally seperate from hood cooling system)
holds 10 - 20lbs activated carbon

I'm not sure how early other people start training there plants, but i start by topping the clones as i plant them in soil on day 1. This is not your typical topping of a plant. I trim the very top 1 or 2 nodes on the very end of the growing tip. Then about 3-5 days after i have planted a cube in soil, the plant should be through any stress from topping and planting it in soil. The next 2 or 3 nodes down from where it was topped should be showing signs of strong growth now that they are the only 3 branches on the little clone. I start by tying these tiny braches apart with cotton string and tie them to the edge of the pot. As it grows i prune nodes that a wont need before they get and larger than 1/4 of an inch, so the plant doesn't waste any energy on growing branches that i'm going to prune off. I tie the branches out and down spreading them as evenly as i can, until i have a plant with 13 - 15 heads about the same height. I trim nodes from the lower parts of the growing heads so there is no little "popcorn nugs" at the bottom of the stems of where my main colas will be. I do all of this in 30 days. If you do it right the plant will grow extremely fast and just how you want it to. As I begin to flower my plants I usually don't have to do any more tying to position the heads but i usually just have to adjust the height/ tension of the strings. I do have to always tie them up to each other when they start getting so heavy the plant can't hold up the weight itself. Thats it on LST unless anyone has more questions.

A few other tips - I fertilize every watering (except flushing the plants of course). I just find a level of nutrient solution that my plants can handle without burning or even getting to dark green. I think a constant light feeding program works much better than a heavy fertilization every other watering. DON"T OVERFERTILIZE. You can build up levels of minerals and other compounds in the soil the don't make the plant look like its having problems but rather just slow down growth. Also i keep the glass of the hood 8 inches from the tops of my plants. The cooling system is powerful enough to keep the glass around 85 degrees. I checked it with a laser thermometer. There is two types of ways a HID bulb can burn a plant. The first is just the heat energy put off, and secondly is by the intensity of the visible light coming off the bulb. Most sources say to keep your plants 18 - 24 inches from the bulb, but i find that my plants leaves wont start showing signs of damage until 3 - 4 inches from the glass of my hood with the glass being cool to the touch (85 degrees or so). So basically I'm just reiterating the well known fact that the closer you can bring your lights to the plants without burning the better.

First pic. is a clone i was talking about the day i planted it, its topped but you can barely tell. second pic is that plant at day thirty. the last pic is two different plants but i put that one on here to show how close i keep the lights
 

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stoneruk

Well-Known Member
damn the full how to huh... Well here ya go better get some +rep for this

Size: 3.5 ft X 3.5 ft mylar lined on three sides, open on front, white plastic board on floor

Veg lights: 400mh + 250 hps - 650 total veg watts
Flwr lights: 400hps + 250 mh + 8 - 26w 4200K cfls + 8 - 26w 2400K cfls = 1066 flowering watts
Lighting Schedual :
Clones - 24 hours (No HID lamps)
Vegetative - 20 hours
Flowering - 12 hrs (last two weeks of flowering 13 hrs)

Hood: Sun Systems air cooled hood w/ custom 16 socket cfl bracket

Cooling: Hood is cooled with a industrial heater fan mounted in a acoustic foam lined box - Absolutely Silent
Plants have a .25 hp industrial fan w/ a dimmer switch hooked up to the cord to adjust power.

Nutrients: Advanced Nutrients - Micro, Grow, Bloom ; Voodoo Juice ; Sensizyme ; Bud Blood
Humbolt County's Own - Snow Storm ; Gravity
Cloning Gel - Rootech cloning gel

Growing medium: I start clones in 3x3 rockwool cubes. Soil is 6 part mix that i make. perlite, kentucky riverbottom loam, worm castings, bat guano, a organic soil base that a local nursery sells

Odor control - custom build powered filter box (totally seperate from hood cooling system)
holds 10 - 20lbs activated carbon

I'm not sure how early other people start training there plants, but i start by topping the clones as i plant them in soil on day 1. This is not your typical topping of a plant. I trim the very top 1 or 2 nodes on the very end of the growing tip. Then about 3-5 days after i have planted a cube in soil, the plant should be through any stress from topping and planting it in soil. The next 2 or 3 nodes down from where it was topped should be showing signs of strong growth now that they are the only 3 branches on the little clone. I start by tying these tiny braches apart with cotton string and tie them to the edge of the pot. As it grows i prune nodes that a wont need before they get and larger than 1/4 of an inch, so the plant doesn't waste any energy on growing branches that i'm going to prune off. I tie the branches out and down spreading them as evenly as i can, until i have a plant with 13 - 15 heads about the same height. I trim nodes from the lower parts of the growing heads so there is no little "popcorn nugs" at the bottom of the stems of where my main colas will be. I do all of this in 30 days. If you do it right the plant will grow extremely fast and just how you want it to. As I begin to flower my plants I usually don't have to do any more tying to position the heads but i usually just have to adjust the height/ tension of the strings. I do have to always tie them up to each other when they start getting so heavy the plant can't hold up the weight itself. Thats it on LST unless anyone has more questions.

A few other tips - I fertilize every watering (except flushing the plants of course). I just find a level of nutrient solution that my plants can handle without burning or even getting to dark green. I think a constant light feeding program works much better than a heavy fertilization every other watering. DON"T OVERFERTILIZE. You can build up levels of minerals and other compounds in the soil the don't make the plant look like its having problems but rather just slow down growth. Also i keep the glass of the hood 8 inches from the tops of my plants. The cooling system is powerful enough to keep the glass around 85 degrees. I checked it with a laser thermometer. There is two types of ways a HID bulb can burn a plant. The first is just the heat energy put off, and secondly is by the intensity of the visible light coming off the bulb. Most sources say to keep your plants 18 - 24 inches from the bulb, but i find that my plants leaves wont start showing signs of damage until 3 - 4 inches from the glass of my hood with the glass being cool to the touch (85 degrees or so). So basically I'm just reiterating the well known fact that the closer you can bring your lights to the plants without burning the better.

First pic. is a clone i was talking about the day i planted it, its topped but you can barely tell. second pic is that plant at day thirty. the last pic is two different plants but i put that one on here to show how close i keep the lights
Cheers for writing all that, shows that you put a whole lot of love into growing them and possibly a bit OCD about it lol j/k. What size of pots are you using?
 

HappyGrowing86

Well-Known Member
possibly a bit OCD about it . What size of pots are you using?
Your not the first person to say i might have OCD when it comes to my plants. First pot is a gallon and a half or something like that. final pots are 5 gallon buckets.

these pics just show three diff grows and how i changed the number of heads on the plants and what not.
 

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mcpurple

Well-Known Member
OCD is a good thing to have with plants.
i like your setup and grow description, although IMO i think water, feed,water feed and so on is a bit better choice, although it is really up to the grower. i just feel it is better for the plant to get plain water in between feedings so that any left over nutes in the soil from the feed are used up before adding more and risking a build up
 

HappyGrowing86

Well-Known Member
ill give it to ya.. feed, water, feed, water is safer for the beginner grower if your not sure what your plants can handle. but in my 10 years (40 harvests give or take a few) growing i have found that a constant feeding at the right level will help your plants grow faster
 
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