Low Pressure Aero build...it has begun!

diggs99 said:
So, do you think its another issuue causing the leaf whackiness? any ideas?

they havent improved their look but they are growing like crazy
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Being that its already been 3-4 days I would have expected them to perk back up by now if it was a temp issue.
You said something about stress from the LEDs, did you switch to the LED from something else recently? Thats the only thing standing out to me rn.
 
fragileassassin said:
Being that its already been 3-4 days I would have expected them to perk back up by now if it was a temp issue.
You said something about stress from the LEDs, did you switch to the LED from something else recently? Thats the only thing standing out to me rn.
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Yes they were under t5s for a few weeks while they rooted and began veg. For some reason tho, this dosent appear to be light issues, the leaves have a weird twist to them, not like the normal light stress we would see, im starting to wonder if my blulab is out of calibration and is giving me bad numbers.

The water temps sounded plausible to me but at the same time, the differences wasnt overly drastic and after a week and still no change, im thinking its gotta be something else.

As i said, it hasnt slowed growth, these fkn plants are little beasts already, every stock and stem has girth about it lol


its just the leaves, they dont look right at all.
 
Axion42 said:
Also have to keep in mind when doing hydro/ aero I've found that ppms should generally be a tad lower than other medium mixes. I've found that to be true especially with high pressure aero, 600ppm would give me tip burn. Maybe your ppm little on the high side?
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Ya im only at 700ppm right now

Also a possibility im running too low on calmag, using only 4ml per gallon, according to renfro, i need to increase there for sure.
 
diggs99 said:
Yes they were under t5s for a few weeks while they rooted and began veg.
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I also agree that the plant is not happy right now.
Was just the only thing that popped out from the context of everything. I use a lux meter and try to ease them into the LED for the first week after coming out from under the T5s. My boards give more light at like 40% power 12" away than my 8 bulb T5s do at 4"
To me the twist shows its trying to hide from the light by twisting leaves to minimize surface area that takes direct light. Its said to be fairly common in indoor plants that get taken outside into real sunlight for the first time.
Is there a fan blowing directly on it or anything else?

Wouldnt hurt to check your meter calibration. I often double check mine just to make sure when things dont make sense.
 
lights are completely dimmed to lowest power, ive had plants show stress from the leds on previous crops, it just never had the same look. not sure what it is but its different lol

gonna calibrate my meter , hopefully thats it.
 
diggs99 said:
lights are completely dimmed to lowest power, ive had plants show stress from the leds on previous crops, it just never had the same look. not sure what it is but its different lol

gonna calibrate my meter , hopefully thats it.
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Yeah this one kinda has me confused and I was mostly just reaching for possibilities lol.
I hate to say it, but it may be a let it go and we'll see what happens next if none of us get that oh duh moment
 
Ya I dunno, I’m starting to think I’m growing lettuce lol

Look at this funky leaf, something isn’t right. Still no real idea what tho lol
 

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OneHitDone said:
Are you positive things aren't going south in the root zone?
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Im really not sure,


Im using hydroguard and the roots are a real healthy bunch....ill go snap pics , as far as i can tell, they look good, no weird smells

res temps are stuck at 70f

ph has been solid at 5.8, ill usually readjust after 3 days when it drifts to 6.2, but as i mentioned before, theres always the chance my blulab is off and needs to be calibrated. I was gonna do it last night but realized i was out of the calibration solution.
 
Baking soda and water should be 7.9ph,regardless of the mix.
That is some funky twist! Im no help but it must have something to do with the LPA.Never seen that in rdwc.
 
They seem fine. i upped the calmag....They were just supercropped and flattened out before this pic.


Too wet? you mean i should be letting the roots dry out more between sprays?
 

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diggs99 said:
They seem fine. i upped the calmag....They were just supercropped and flattened out before this pic.


Too wet? you mean i should be letting the roots dry out more between sprays?
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Yes,have a look at the other thread in aero my bsmt or something.
 
Well i upped time timer to 1/13.....after inspecting roots at 9mins, everything still had droplets , so they can def withstand more off time.
 
Keesje said:
How can roots be too wet in hydro?
As long as there is enough O2 as well, they can never be 'too wet'.
In DWC they are wet 24/7.
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Ya thats a very good question , ive searched the net and have yet to find any proof that aero can be overwatered. I adjusted my timer just in case, but i was scratching my head when doing so, i was wondering how this could make a difference as other forms of hydro have roots submerged in water constantly.

The only reason i see growers using different spray times, seems to be pump/heat related.
 
diggs99 said:
Ya thats a very good question , ive searched the net and have yet to find any proof that aero can be overwatered. I adjusted my timer just in case, but i was scratching my head when doing so, i was wondering how this could make a difference as other forms of hydro have roots submerged in water constantly.

The only reason i see growers using different spray times, seems to be pump/heat related.
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Overwatered as in the medium is not taking in an delivering enough oxygen to the whole root.

I wonder if the leaf issue is from the rootmass 'choking'.
 
diggs99 said:
The only reason i see growers using different spray times, seems to be pump/heat related.
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Another good reason for the pump being on/off is that O2 in gaseous state can reach the roots.
Very effective.
In LPA or HPA and with your pump on a timer it is impossible to overwater.
The moment you stop spraying all the water will drip from the roots. Making way for oxygen.
So your problem has nothing to do with overwatering.
In DWC it sometimes happen when the rootball gets to thick and fresh DO-rich water can't reach the inside of the rootball.
But with LPA or HPA... nah.
 
PissingNutes said:
Overwatered as in the medium is not taking in an delivering enough oxygen to the whole root.

I wonder if the leaf issue is from the rootmass 'choking'.
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What do you mean by "choking" and what is the cause and remedy for it? thanks for taking the time to reply, appreciate it.


Keesje said:
Another good reason for the pump being on/off is that O2 in gaseous state can reach the roots.
Very effective.
In LPA or HPA and with your pump on a timer it is impossible to overwater.
The moment you stop spraying all the water will drip from the roots. Making way for oxygen.
So your problem has nothing to do with overwatering.
In DWC it sometimes happen when the rootball gets to thick and fresh DO-rich water can't reach the inside of the rootball.
But with LPA or HPA... nah.
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Ya this all makes sense. Im just grasping at straws, willing to try any adjustments to correct the issue.

I will say this, everything is looking much better since i upped the calmag, so maybe it was a calmag related issue as @Renfro suggested from the beginning.

I really have no idea. You have any guesses on the leaf twist keesje?
 
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