Low Pressure Aero build...it has begun!

diggs99

Well-Known Member
You'd wanna just get your gun hot hot and run a bead down as fast as you can, then throw that lid on quick so it forms nicely, then pull it back off fast so it doesn't stick. But the glue gets to a certain consistency after a few seconds where it presses down but is no longer way adhesive anymore. That's when you do it.
Ya the way i did it, didnt work so well. Gonna try your way now lol

How do you get the entire tote rim done in one shot before it all dries too hard?
 

2com

Well-Known Member
Ya the way i did it, didnt work so well. Gonna try your way now lol

How do you get the entire tote rim done in one shot before it all dries too hard?
Just in case you're still lookin for suggestions, RTV sealant (used for making gaskets). There's a few "types" (high temp, etc etc), you'd have to look if curious. Duno if it'd stick to the plastic that well either, never tried it for that use. Maybe not much different than silicone really. I duno man, good luck :)
 

icetech

Well-Known Member
If you are worried about anything sticking to it.. get permatex black plastic weld.. the shit is insanely good, i use it for repairing hinge anchors in laptops and it never fails... could use it to actually mount some type of drip rail if you wanted even..
 

diggs99

Well-Known Member
Just in case you're still lookin for suggestions, RTV sealant (used for making gaskets). There's a few "types" (high temp, etc etc), you'd have to look if curious. Duno if it'd stick to the plastic that well either, never tried it for that use. Maybe not much different than silicone really. I duno man, good luck :)
Ya i was thinking this too, silicone or sealant of some kind. Someone suggested scuffing the plastic first to help bond. I think Airwalkers way will work, im just having a hard time getting the entire perimeter done before the first half is already hardened.

Ideally id like to use the glue gun or silicone as i have both here at home already.


If you are worried about anything sticking to it.. get permatex black plastic weld.. the shit is insanely good, i use it for repairing hinge anchors in laptops and it never fails... could use it to actually mount some type of drip rail if you wanted even..
Oh cool, never heard of this stuff. Is it flexible like silicone? If i cant get glue gun or silicone to work and have to go shopping, maybe ill look into this stuff.
 

Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
If you want a silicone one...they easiest way I've found is use tape or seran wrap.
I put a couple holes around edge so silicone can go threw...not too big tho.
Lay down a bead around the edge and then put tape on it...sticky side down on silicone...or use seran wrap on top.
Put lid on tightly but not sealed yet...wait until its just starting to harden...then put on tight and then release.
It should smooth out evenly and slight trims may be needed...lol
Let it finish drying and the tape or seran wrap should peal off fairly easy.
And anything that comes through holes can be smoothed out a little to help in holding the bead on.
 

icetech

Well-Known Member
Ya i was thinking this too, silicone or sealant of some kind. Someone suggested scuffing the plastic first to help bond. I think Airwalkers way will work, im just having a hard time getting the entire perimeter done before the first half is already hardened.

Ideally id like to use the glue gun or silicone as i have both here at home already.




Oh cool, never heard of this stuff. Is it flexible like silicone? If i cant get glue gun or silicone to work and have to go shopping, maybe ill look into this stuff.
No it sets hard.. but it does not let go of plastic.. the stuff is awesome.
 

2com

Well-Known Member
Just trying to give you ideas: https://forum.grasscity.com/threads/leaking-aeroponic-buckets-fix.911553/
I wouldn't use duct tape on the inside, hah, nor would I ever use it in life. But maybe silicone or hot glue, etc., to hold the "skirt" in place?
I just thought about this too: are the sprayers too high off the bottom of the tote? Maybe direct spray is the problem, and it's hitting the seam/joint of the lid and tote. Maybe you could lower their height.
 

2com

Well-Known Member
Ya i was thinking this too, silicone or sealant of some kind. Someone suggested scuffing the plastic first to help bond. I think Airwalkers way will work, im just having a hard time getting the entire perimeter done before the first half is already hardened.

Ideally id like to use the glue gun or silicone as i have both here at home already.




Oh cool, never heard of this stuff. Is it flexible like silicone? If i cant get glue gun or silicone to work and have to go shopping, maybe ill look into this stuff.

I saw some similar (rubberized weather strip meant for water) the other day at the depot, it was too thick but I didn't check for thinner stuff. The "D" profile stuff used here would be good because it has a hollow center and would collapse allowing you to (hopefully) close the lid. It'll keep yo' flo' muthafuckin' tizight, though.

- Roca-Pads
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Ya the way i did it, didnt work so well. Gonna try your way now lol

How do you get the entire tote rim done in one shot before it all dries too hard?
Do it in 1/4's or 1/2 if needed. But if you're guns heavy duty enough, you can do it in 1.
 

diggs99

Well-Known Member
So i got everything sealed and ready to fire it up again....i found some weatherstrip and cut it down to fit.

Im using hydroguard and live res but was thinking that it might be a good idea to run some pool shock through the system for a few hours to sterilize everything before the plants go back in?

If i were to do this. how much Shock would i use per gallon? and how long after using the shock will it be ok to start using the hydroguard again?

or is it overkill, and the hydroguard will do its thing regardless?

@Airwalker16
@rkymtnman
@myke
@Axion42
 

Axion42

Well-Known Member
So i got everything sealed and ready to fire it up again....i found some weatherstrip and cut it down to fit.

Im using hydroguard and live res but was thinking that it might be a good idea to run some pool shock through the system for a few hours to sterilize everything before the plants go back in?

If i were to do this. how much Shock would i use per gallon? and how long after using the shock will it be ok to start using the hydroguard again?

or is it overkill, and the hydroguard will do its thing regardless?

@Airwalker16
@rkymtnman
@myke
@Axion42
I don't think its overkill at all, I actually run bleach thru mine for a few days, drain refill then pool shock then plants, but I run sterile 100% of time.

I've been told .1 gram of pool shock for every 10 gallons of water for 1 ppm of chlorine. I add .3g for 30 gallons in my system, I guess it's safe for plants up to 5ppm.
 

diggs99

Well-Known Member
I don't think its overkill at all, I actually run bleach thru mine for a few days, drain refill then pool shock then plants, but I run sterile 100% of time.

I've been told .1 gram of pool shock for every 10 gallons of water for 1 ppm of chlorine. I add .3g for 30 gallons in my system, I guess it's safe for plants up to 5ppm.
Any rough way of calculating a gram without sa good scale? like half tsp or some shit lol

i dont own a scale anymore.
 

Axion42

Well-Known Member
Any rough way of calculating a gram without sa good scale? like half tsp or some shit lol

i dont own a scale anymore.
Not sure but I can tell you a half tsp would be overdoing big time. It's seriously like 20-30 tiny granules of the hth pool shock I use, it barely looks like it'll do anything.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
Not sure but I can tell you a half tsp would be overdoing big time. It's seriously like 20-30 tiny granules of the hth pool shock I use, it barely looks like it'll do anything.
true. looks like just a couple of shakes of a salt shaker for what you need.
 
Top