looks like "p" def to me others told me mg lockout please help w.pics

strain - jean guy fem
soilless - promix hp
3 gallon geo pots
water pj 5.8-5.9 everytime
30 days since 12/12 switch
gh flora series
temps 79-81 constant
c02 added by c02 in a bag
2.3x4.3x7' grow tent
600 watt hps cool tube for flower

flushed once with 5.8ph water, waited 5 days, little water uptake, no improvement. gave 1 liter on lighter nute solution ph'd to 5.8, 4 days later still no improvement

what am i missing here? i dont want to screw around to much, im afraid if i try to flush again, it will be to soon and i'll drown the roots. (overwatering was never an issue i always let the pots dry out, the would be very light)

along with the visual signs on the leaves, the flowering production is very slow.

178 views and not even a hello? come on people, need some help please!

It looks like heat/light burn or nutrient burn.

4xfish said:

178 views and not even a hello? come on people, need some help please!

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That is major leaf scorch which is probably caused by an overage of salts, mostly likely too much P which is also inducing the leaf chlorosis I see in the 4th photo. Read this - https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/158144-never-ending-abuse-phosphorous-bloom.html

For starts, rather than focusing and understanding the basics and plant nutrition, you're trying too hard with the trendy CO2 stuff, pH adjustments and such which doesn't matter in the real world. If you'd treat it like growing a tomato you'd be fine and do well. If you apply forum "advise" (i.e. P or Mg deficiency) which is parroted by the blind leading the blind, you'll fail.

"Little water uptake" also suggests your root system may be crapped out, which may also be contributing to the leaf scorch. Is there a possibility you burned the roots with too much salts?

Due to the heavy leaf loss, don't expect much production. You're only adding to the problem by using bloom foods that are low in N. Every one does it, and every one pays the price for listening to the bloom foods hype.

On soil-less recommend Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro, 9-3-6, from start to finish.

See my tweaks in Advanced.

Good luck,
UB

thanks uncle ben. i guess my best line of attack would to be let to pot dry out as much as possible and give it a real good flush and hope for the best????

4xfish said:

thanks uncle ben. i guess my best line of attack would to be let to pot dry out as much as possible and give it a real good flush and hope for the best????

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Don't ever let a pot dry out completely.

What is the NPK values of the foods you've been giving it, how much, and how often?

Your best line of attack is to get a book on indoor plant culture and learn the basics. Another question, why are you giving them constant temps day and night? Does a plant in its natural environment subject to constant temps? See my tweaks and my sig line.

Good luck,
UB

Give it a good flush now to prevent further damage.

4xfish said:

thanks uncle ben. i guess my best line of attack would to be let to pot dry out as much as possible and give it a real good flush and hope for the best????

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I would flush that thing now. Looks like nutelock to me. Also I wouldn't bank on getting much from her since she's badly burnt you're going to loose a ton of foliage. GL

Uncle Ben said:

Another question, why are you giving them constant temps day and night? Does a plant in its natural environment subject to constant temps? See my tweaks and my sig line.

Good luck,
UB

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sorry should have made that more clear, that is the temp during lights on and it is consitant, lights off it drops about 10-12 degrees




do you think flushing it right now although it still saturated, would harm the roots even more by drowning them???

The 2 greatest investments I made in growing was a 15 dollar PPM meter so I never over fertalize, and a pH meter to make sure they are getting all the nutrients they need (cost me 90 bucks at a shop, but its cheaper on ebay where I got my PPM meter). I screwed up so many times guessing at those two things, and I never had any problems after I made sure the PPM and pH where perfect! Cheers

4xfish said:

sorry should have made that more clear, that is the temp during lights on and it is consitant, lights off it drops about 10-12 degrees




do you think flushing it right now although it still saturated, would harm the roots even more by drowning them???

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If Uncle Ben tells you what to do then you best listen to him. Are you kidding me? Read his suggested threads/links. Learn something for yourself so you don't have to go through this again and be right back here. I am just telling it like it is. No disrespect. Take your lumps and learn why it happened then you'll figure out how to fix it before it goes full effect.

That looks like magnesium defeciency caused by the low ph of your nutrient feed. Give calmag along with your base nutes and try giving a ph of 6.4
(you said your feeding ph of 5.8 in promix)

Also remember that damaged leaves normally don't recover from most things other than yellowing from a N deficiency. What you're looking for is improvement in new growth

Dank Raptor said:

That looks like magnesium defeciency caused by the low ph of your nutrient feed. Give calmag along with your base nutes and try giving a ph of 6.4
(you said your feeding ph of 5.8 in promix)

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Mg deficiency, pH issues, oh my!

Come on people, if you don't know what's going on then don't comment. The blind man's comments will be accepted by the other blind man and will cause him to stumble and fall.

The symptoms of Mg deficiency are pale yellow to whitish chlorosis of the LOWER leaves, perhaps up to the mid section if severe enough. Due to magnesium’s mobile nature, the plant will first break down chlorophyll in older leaves and transport the Mg to younger leaves which have greater photosynthetic needs. Therefore, the first sign of magnesium deficiency is the chlorosis of old leaves which progresses to the young leaves as the deficiency continues. High amounts of K have an antagonistic affect on Mg uptake too, but we wouldn't wanna blame our sacred Kool Bloom rocket fuel, no way!

pH - again, if you don't know, don't pose like you do. Cannabis is quite pH tolerant. https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/251235-stop-blaming-issues-ph-people.html

Yeah, a 10F drop in temps is fine.

UB

Dboi87 said:

Also remember that damaged leaves normally don't recover from most things other than yellowing from a N deficiency. What you're looking for is improvement in new growth

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Exactly.

Don't drive using your rear view mirror.

Well, weather it be to much or to little fertilizer. You aren't measuring right,(I've done that myself, lol). Any type of ferts will give you good bud if you apply them correctly. I use the 3 part GH Nutes as ferts, in rockwool... It works very well. But you must read the directions and apply the methodology right, to get the right results.

Vincent VonBlown said:

Well, weather it be to much or to little fertilizer. You aren't measuring right,(I've done that myself, lol). Any type of ferts will give you good bud if you apply them correctly. I use the 3 part GH Nutes as ferts, in rockwool... It works very well. But you must read the directions and apply the methodology right, to get the right results.

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Well, sort of... its a good place to start but really the plants will tell you how much to use. I mean think about it. The manufacturer doesn't know how big your pats are, how big and mature your plants are, whether or not its a heavy feeding or nute sensitive strain... start with the directions but with caution. The plants will do the rest of the instructing.

How big your plants*** are

Uncle Ben said:

Mg deficiency, pH issues, oh my!

Come on people, if you don't know what's going on then don't comment. The blind man's comments will be accepted by the other blind man and will cause him to stumble and fall further.

The symptoms of Mg deficiency are pale yellow to whitish chlorosis of the LOWER leaves, perhaps up to the mid section if severe enough. Due to magnesium’s mobile nature, the plant will first break down chlorophyll in older leaves and transport the Mg to younger leaves which have greater photosynthetic needs. Therefore, the first sign of magnesium deficiency is the chlorosis of old leaves which progresses to the young leaves as the deficiency continues. High amounts of K have an antagonistic affect on Mg uptake too, but we wouldn't wanna blame our sacred Kool Bloom rocket fuel, no way!

pH - again, if you don't know, don't pose like you do. Cannabis is quite pH tolerant. https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/251235-stop-blaming-issues-ph-people.html

Yeah, a 10F drop in temps is fine.

UB

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Mag def. does not only affect lower leaves it affects older leaves which usually means lower leaves. Interveinal chlorosis combined with leaf tips curling upward and dieing is a giveaway of magnesium not getting absorbed.

He said he feeds with a ph of 5.8-5.9 in soil. Magnesium is one of those elements that is absorbed higher on the ph chart and is the most common defeciency when your ph is acidic.

Could also be locked out from overfeeding. Too much K or too much Calcium in the diet can also lock out mag.

Looks like it could be CalMg or Nute burn or Lockout. To rule out the last two, flush it either way, and add your normal quantity of fertilizers. If the problem doesn't get any better after 2-3 days, add the normal dosage of your fertilizer, typically half the suggested dose. If the problem does stop, then you know its either nute burn or lockout. But if the problem continues, then I would advise adding Cal/Mg