Looking For Some Tricks To Lower RH

hellraizer30

Rebel From The North
K the intank goes strait to the inside of the room not the tent thats a vortex 8in 774cfm
The first scrubber goes from the tent to a y to the outside its a 8in also vortex 774cfm
The secound scrubber is outside the tent that goes from the outer room to the y
Its a 8in also 774cfm vortex. Ive taken in the fact that cfm is cut in half from the scrubbers
Thats why i felt that x2 8in from the scrubbers could be run through the same outake.

So if its cut in half both fans make 774cfm together that matches the intake that a true 774cfm
Ive done the hole use smoke to collect data on how my air works, i would like to just seal up
The room add a ac unit add c02 and try that but thats alot of cash
 

scroglodyte

Well-Known Member
cooler = wetter. the capacity of air, to hold water, increases as temp increases. the AC unit is the correct answer, but didn't want you to think wrongly. AC units are mega dehumidifires.
 

painkillerman

Active Member
if using stand up ac with bucket res fro water its pulls out if it doesnt have a drain line(use gal catch pail with lid) drill n put one in the water catch as if the water line goes to high these systems shut off then leads to headaches and rh/temp spikes also ,so true man i run demider(drain linethis also) and ac full room 34 rh i can drop too fast
 

missnu

Well-Known Member
Well anything that change sthe temp usually lowers the RH...heaters and air conditioners both make it dry...so an AC should handle it...not to mention if it is cooler than it has been there would be less moisture in the air anyway...
 

MYWhat?

Active Member
missnu is right. A dehumidifier large enuf to drop your constantly recycling air is going to be just as big of an electricity hog as an AC unit.

I'd suggest pulling your intake air in from outside (same as you have it) straight through your hoods and right back outside. (1vortex, no scrubber) AC the room then use your second vortex with your scrubber to exchange some air on a thermostat (or timer). Scrubber in the tent to outside and the fresh cool air can be pulled in and you'd only be pulling out the higher rh air. You can try passive intake (from the room into the tent or use a 6inch inline hooked to the same thermostat, so as not to create to much positive pressure in the tent.

Then when you have some extra funds for all the CO2 equipment, you'll be all set to seal things up ! (then scrubbed air from tent would go into the room, to be dehumidified and cooled, fresh CO2 enriched air in.)

Hope this helps. (knowledge gained from 20+yrs. of being a building contractor)

Im sure you probably have a cooling thermostat, but if not these work great. Easily wired, 120 volt in and multi outlet. (for both intake and outake) They also have 2 stage models that can do both heat and cool or can be used to kick on AC at 75 and if room gets to 78 it would kick in the next measure. (AC or inlines)
http://www.etcsupply.com/ranco-etc111000000-digital-temperature-controller-p-86.html

Capable of 0-30 deg differential (to keep from short cycling)
 

hellraizer30

Rebel From The North
Im all sealed up now! Got a co2 burner and sentinal control box, air come from outside through the lights then back outside.
Only heat thats going to be generated is from the light outside the shields and a dehumidifier and co2 unit. So im looking
At a water cooled heat exchanger cooled by a chiller running into a 55gal res. Now all this is close to completion im trying to work the bugs out
 

MYWhat?

Active Member
LOL !!!!
Just went back and looked at the dates.

Someone dug up an old thread ! ( and I like a fool bit )

I wasn't to far off though.
 

woodsmaneh!

Well-Known Member
Its cool bro im still pondering how do lower it the cheapest short term and long term

Why would you want to lower it? I read all the posts, you don't have mold?

Lowering your humidity at peak flower setting time is counter productive for you plant and you. Toss Co2 in there and your burning money too. The short of it is something called VPD (Vapor Pressure Deflect). Science lesson attached but the short version is

Your plants have pores on the leafs that are called Stomata, they open and close depending on the VPD or humidity+tempurature = VPD

so the more humidity the wider the stomata open and the more Co2 they can eat to power the plant. It's just plant science, I have 2 25gal auto feed humidifiers in my room that run 24/7 to keep the humidity at 65%, lots of pix in my sig.


Humidity and Vapour Pressure Deficit (VPD)
For years Relative Humidity (RH) has been used as a measure of how much water vapour is present in the air and is probably still the preferred method used by experienced growers. In a greenhouse, the amount of water vapour present has a direct effect on a plants ability to transpire and hence grow.
Another measure called vapour pressure deficit (VPD) is also used to indicate humidity and is felt to be more directly related to a plants wellbeing. VPD combines the effects of both humidity AND temperature into one value and so gives a good indication of plant wellbeing without the need for the grower to do any mental arithmetic. VPD values run in the opposite way to RH values so when RH is high VPD is low.
If humidity is too low (i.e. high VPD), the stomata on the leaves tend to close in order to limit transpiration and prevent wilting. This closing of the stomata will also limit the rate of CO2 uptake and hence limit photosynthesis and consequently plant growth. Low humidity also reduces turgidity (water pressure within the plant cells) and this in turn also restricts growth.
Conversely, if humidity is too high (i.e. low VPD) the stomata will fully open but even so the plants will be unable to evaporate enough water to carry minerals into the plant and so again, growth will be impeded and mineral deficiencies (particularly calcium) may occur. In addition, the plants may exhibit soft growth, fungal problems and mineral deficiency symptoms.
It is frequently stated that VPD more closely matches what the plant "feels" in relation to temperature and humidity and therefore forms a better basis for environment control. Unfortunately, VPD is extremely difficult to determine accurately as it is necessary to know the leaf tissue temperature. Attempts to measure leaf temperature reliably on an ongoing basis have often ended in disaster. One of the problems is that the plants leaves are in differing amounts of sun with some leaves in full sun, some in partial sun and others in full shade. This makes the concept of "leaf tissue temperature" particularly complex.
By measuring the temperature and relative humidity within the crop canopy the calculated VPD is still a useful measure as it combines both temperature and humidity into a single measure in a way that approximates the well-being of the crop. As an example, for many crops it is suggested that RH should be kept between the following limits at the stated temperatures:-
Temperature [SUP]o[/SUP]C
Min RH (apply fogging)
Ideal RH
Max RH (for disease prevention)
15
-
50
73
20
46
64
80
25
60
73
86
30
70
80
89

You can see from the table that the higher the temperature is the more humidity is required by the plants. The above makes it difficult to specify control parameters as different RH settings are required at different temperatures.
Now look how much simpler this is made by using VPD as the whole of the above table is contained in just three VPD values as follows
Maximum VPD (too hot and dry - apply fogging)
VPD ideal
VPD too low (too cool and humid -warm/ dehumidify)
1.25
0.85
0.45

AutoVent 2 and 3 environment controllers estimate the VPD based on the air temperature and humidity in the crop canopy. It will only be close to the true figure for a healthy transpiring crop. The VPD calculator below allows the VPD to be estimated based on both air and leaf temperatures. This clearly shows the possible error in VPD due to just a 1 deg C difference between air and leaf temperature.
As a general rule, most plants grow well at VPDs of between 0.8 to 0.95 KPa
Fogging or other humidification is usually applied at VPDs above 1.25KPa and heating and dehumidification at VPDs below 0.45KPa
Use the on-line calculator below to calculate the VPD from Air Temperature and Relative Humidity (with and without leaf temperature). You need to be connected to the internet to use this link.

VPD CALCULATOR
http://www.autogrow.com/vpd_calc.php
 

hellraizer30

Rebel From The North
Funny you mention vdp! I have been reading up on it. Great info wood, but the big ? Is what about PM at what
Point am i going to see it? So far in the past i have gone as high as 65% in flower and never saw pm but bud rot
Was a bit of a issue! How about a sulfur burner?
 

woodsmaneh!

Well-Known Member
Funny you mention vdp! I have been reading up on it. Great info wood, but the big ? Is what about PM at what
Point am i going to see it? So far in the past i have gone as high as 65% in flower and never saw pm but bud rot
Was a bit of a issue! How about a sulfur burner?
I run at 60 to 65 and have no PM issues, I have lots of air movement and that helps prevent PM. Don't waste your time on a burner, at the first signs of PM you can do a number of things, turn the heat up to 95 for 24 hr, will kill it or spray with 1 part milk and 9 parts water that will work also. I find cool temps at night 60 don't help. Running at 60% RH you should not have PM issues.
 

Sir.Ganga

New Member
Sounds like you need more vents. Your exhaust system should be large enough to exchange the air 3-4 times an hour. Easy to figure out. do you vent your light out of the room? Lights give off nice dry air and sometimes it can be used to lower humidity, but there again proper ventillation is the key

A/C units are very good but it sounds like a bandaid in this situation.

Vaper
 

hellraizer30

Rebel From The North
Sounds like you need more vents. Your exhaust system should be large enough to exchange the air 3-4 times an hour. Easy to figure out. do you vent your light out of the room? Lights give off nice dry air and sometimes it can be used to lower humidity, but there again proper ventillation is the key

A/C units are very good but it sounds like a bandaid in this situation.

Vaper
Light are on a closed loop! They pull from outside through the shields then back outside!
Im not looking to exdaust anything from in the room outside:(
 

Bigz2277

Well-Known Member
Light are on a closed loop! They pull from outside through the shields then back outside!
Im not looking to exdaust anything from in the room outside:(
Not a scientist or anything but would putting a large bowl of rice do this? for small rooms obviously wouldnt work on a large scale.
 
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