Looking for a little help and info.

M

Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
Been using some DIY lights I made awhile back...they work fine, but I deal with heat problems in the summer months.
Anyways I figure its time to update with some strips, but after reading a bunch of posts I'm not sure what the 'now' strips are and are they worth the extra $?
What would you purchase if you could?
Also is it better to run CC or CV drivers?
Any info welcomed...been reading, but like always I end up learning how to teach elephants sign language and totally off topic...so I'm hoping to get combined info.
I have a couple designs...thoughts...
1- 8 x 2' strips x 2...so 16 total on 1 driver or 2.
2- 8-10 x 1' strips x 3...so 24-30 on 1 or 3 drivers.
or something like this.
Thanks :P
Oh and the biggest pain in the ass part...I live in Canada so got to order in country or pay a ton which makes it not really worth doing...so Can links please.
 
MidnightSun72

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
Mak'er Grow said:
Been using some DIY lights I made awhile back...they work fine, but I deal with heat problems in the summer months.
Anyways I figure its time to update with some strips, but after reading a bunch of posts I'm not sure what the 'now' strips are and are they worth the extra $?
What would you purchase if you could?
Also is it better to run CC or CV drivers?
Any info welcomed...been reading, but like always I end up learning how to teach elephants sign language and totally off topic...so I'm hoping to get combined info.
I have a couple designs...thoughts...
1- 8 x 2' strips x 2...so 16 total on 1 driver or 2.
2- 8-10 x 1' strips x 3...so 24-30 on 1 or 3 drivers.
or something like this.
Thanks :P
Oh and the biggest pain in the ass part...I live in Canada so got to order in country or pay a ton which makes it not really worth doing...so Can links please.
Click to expand...
strip manufacturers seem to recommend to wire in series.

but the common theory on the forums now is to use a CV driver that way the output voltage remains low ~60V or less is pretty typical and thus less risk of overloading connector voltage, or arcing in grow environment.


Digi-Key.ca, mouser.ca, futureelectronics.com, arrow.com.

all these sites have a canada mode.

for me Digi-Key is always the fastest/best they price match and their shipping is Fast as fuck. I get my shit in 3 days from ordering and it's coming from the US. All paid in Canadian etc. No surprise customs fees etc. With arrow I paid some customs and stuff. Kinda sucked. But the strips and drivers were such a good price that it didn't matter
 
cobshopgrow

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
not beeing canadian but i know some canadians beeing happy with digikey for their DIY builds.

wiring in series have the benefit of needing way less cables and gurantues you a 100% even distribution on all whats in series.
you also have less load on your cabling and connectors when the voltage is higher, which is benefical and often a bit more efficient.

60V is of course a quite safe to touch voltage, while to my knowledge there is also a wattage limit, i think the low voltage driver have to be below 100W in total to be considered safe, which most of our drivers arent anyway.

Wiring LEDs Correctly: Series & Parallel Circuits Explained

Don't let electrical circuits and wiring LED components sound daunting or confusing - follow this post for an easy to understand guide!
www.ledsupply.com
Here are a few bullet points for reference about a series circuit:

  1. Same current flows through each LED
  2. The total voltage of the circuit is the sum of the voltages across each LED
  3. If one LED fails, the entire circuit won’t work
  4. Series circuits are easier to wire and troubleshoot
  5. Varying voltages across each LED is okay
Here are a few bullet points for reference about a parallel circuit:

  1. The voltage across each LED is the same
  2. The total current is the sum of currents through each LED
  3. The total output current is shared through each parallel string
  4. Exact voltages are required in each parallel string to help avoid current hogging

this is a bit older, and matching is better these days then the stated 20% so parallel is fine too in almost all cases, still some good read.
normally no need to run current mirrors, or limiting resitors these days (turn some power to heat, unwanted).
www.ledsmagazine.com

LED DESIGN FORUM: Avoiding thermal runaway when driving multiple LED strings (MAGAZINE)

A current mirror and monitor can save a parallel string from failure.
www.ledsmagazine.com www.ledsmagazine.com
 
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M

Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
cobshopgrow said:
not beeing canadian but i know some canadians beeing happy with digikey for their DIY builds.

wiring in series have the benefit of needing way less cables and gurantues you a 100% even distribution on all whats in series.
you also have less load on your cabling and connectors when the voltage is higher, which is benefical and often a bit more efficient.

60V is of course a quite safe to touch voltage, while to my knowledge there is also a wattage limit, i think the low voltage driver have to be below 100W in total to be considered safe, which most of our drivers arent anyway.

Wiring LEDs Correctly: Series & Parallel Circuits Explained

Don't let electrical circuits and wiring LED components sound daunting or confusing - follow this post for an easy to understand guide!
www.ledsupply.com
Here are a few bullet points for reference about a series circuit:

  1. Same current flows through each LED
  2. The total voltage of the circuit is the sum of the voltages across each LED
  3. If one LED fails, the entire circuit won’t work
  4. Series circuits are easier to wire and troubleshoot
  5. Varying voltages across each LED is okay
Here are a few bullet points for reference about a parallel circuit:

  1. The voltage across each LED is the same
  2. The total current is the sum of currents through each LED
  3. The total output current is shared through each parallel string
  4. Exact voltages are required in each parallel string to help avoid current hogging

this is a bit older, and matching is better these days then the stated 20% so parallel is fine too in almost all cases, still some good read.
normally no need to run current mirrors, or limiting resitors these days (turn some power to heat, unwanted).
www.ledsmagazine.com

LED DESIGN FORUM: Avoiding thermal runaway when driving multiple LED strings (MAGAZINE)

A current mirror and monitor can save a parallel string from failure.
www.ledsmagazine.com www.ledsmagazine.com
Click to expand...
I know my electrical side of things, but wondered how real life builds have worked...like sometimes 1 way works better then another and I usually find a way to start in the wrong manner so figured I'd start with pulling build data and work my way from there.
Then I got into figuring out if samsung is the way to go or bridgelux gen 2 or 3 and or slims...which is best for the cost(s)...here I'd buy the one I think is right and its last year tech or something...lol
Yup I have bad luck, but I think I have a little worked out so far...need to find a driver to suit now, but getting there. :)
 
cobshopgrow

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
in real life both configs and mixes of it do work.

seems its time to dig the datasheets then, especially the curves to see which ampere relates to how much voltage, then you know the needed voltage for the driver and can start digging meanwell datasheets.
samsung as bridgelux offer some calculators too which can be helpfull.

not absoulte up to date for recent pricings, but dont forget to check future electronics for EB3s, EB2 can be still the bang for the buck, depends a bit on your power rates too.
No overview over the recent Samsungs offerings, to my knowledge there is no strip out with the new 301 EVO led so far, which is their newest and is looking very good on paper.
 
M

Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
So I did a little more on this and not sure if I have this right or not...lol
If I did 2 strips in series (say gen 2 @ 19.2v I think it was) and draw 700mA or less to dim.
3 panels with 8 strips per panel equals... 4 x 700 = 2A8 (2.8A) x 3 = 7A4 (7.4A)
So would a HLG-320-42AB or B work?
Specs say 7.65A and 21-42 VDC...dimmable.
I figure if I dim them way down to even 10W per strip that will still give me the 240W I'm wanting for the 2x4' space and 3 panels side by side leaves little gaps between panels and using 3" gap between strips equals a fairly nice foot print over all...well I hoping. :)

Edit:
Hunting for strips has determined that I use 2' strips (560mm)...low on supply...so now making 2 panels 8 strips each...2 parallel, 4 series with 19.5 volts @ 700mA...off to do more matching and searching...lol
 
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cobshopgrow

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
you can also checkout the xlg driver lineup.
they cover wide voltage ranges, easy to find something fitting.
but i heard from a people that they had problems with their reliability... ok its just 2 i rememeber and its not really statistical relevant.... but wanted to note.
 
M

Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
cobshopgrow said:
you can also checkout the xlg driver lineup.
they cover wide voltage ranges, easy to find something fitting.
but i heard from a people that they had problems with their reliability... ok its just 2 i rememeber and its not really statistical relevant.... but wanted to note.
Click to expand...
Thanks, Always good to have a little back knowledge. :)
This matching thing is hurting my brain at times...lots of searching back and forth...lol

Wondering if the HLG-240H-42B will work...5.72A @ 21-42 VDC...running 16 strips...2S8P.???
 
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1

1212ham

Well-Known Member
Mak'er Grow said:
So I did a little more on this and not sure if I have this right or not...lol
If I did 2 strips in series (say gen 2 @ 19.2v I think it was) and draw 700mA or less to dim.
3 panels with 8 strips per panel equals... 4 x 700 = 2A8 (2.8A) x 3 = 7A4 (7.4A)
So would a HLG-320-42AB or B work?
Specs say 7.65A and 21-42 VDC...dimmable.
I figure if I dim them way down to even 10W per strip that will still give me the 240W I'm wanting for the 2x4' space and 3 panels side by side leaves little gaps between panels and using 3" gap between strips equals a fairly nice foot print over all...well I hoping. :)

Edit:
Hunting for strips has determined that I use 2' strips (560mm)...low on supply...so now making 2 panels 8 strips each...2 parallel, 4 series with 19.5 volts @ 700mA...off to do more matching and searching...lol
Click to expand...
Yeah, you got this. I'd go for the HLG-320-42 with AB dimming for redundancy, flexibility and more control. You could also use the 44" long strips. What strip are you looking for, gen 2 in 3500K? BTW, people run those up to about 1000mA with no heat sink at all, but cooler is better.

Check out these terminal blocks....

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/3002897/phoenix-contact

Samsung H series strips, Arrow seems to be blowing them out! what a deal!

After reading your post i found these https://www.arrow.com/en/products/3273504/phoenix-contact?q=3273504 They seem to me made for strip builds. Thanks for the advice! Unless I'm missing something, these would be great for parallel wired builds! (: 12-24 AWG. 24 Amps. 450 Volts.
www.rollitup.org

Samsung H series strips, Arrow seems to be blowing them out! what a deal!

After reading your post i found these https://www.arrow.com/en/products/3273504/phoenix-contact?q=3273504 They seem to me made for strip builds. Thanks for the advice! Unless I'm missing something, these would be great for parallel wired builds! (: 12-24 AWG. 24 Amps. 450 Volts.
www.rollitup.org
 
M

Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
1212ham said:
Yeah, you got this. I'd go for the HLG-320-42 with AB dimming for redundancy, flexibility and more control. You could also use the 44" long strips. What strip are you looking for, gen 2 in 3500K? BTW, people run those up to about 1000mA with no heat sink at all, but cooler is better.

Check out these terminal blocks....

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/3002897/phoenix-contact

Samsung H series strips, Arrow seems to be blowing them out! what a deal!

After reading your post i found these https://www.arrow.com/en/products/3273504/phoenix-contact?q=3273504 They seem to me made for strip builds. Thanks for the advice! Unless I'm missing something, these would be great for parallel wired builds! (: 12-24 AWG. 24 Amps. 450 Volts.
www.rollitup.org

Samsung H series strips, Arrow seems to be blowing them out! what a deal!

After reading your post i found these https://www.arrow.com/en/products/3273504/phoenix-contact?q=3273504 They seem to me made for strip builds. Thanks for the advice! Unless I'm missing something, these would be great for parallel wired builds! (: 12-24 AWG. 24 Amps. 450 Volts.
www.rollitup.org
Click to expand...
Ya, running cooler is in my best interest...limited space for height.
Those are some nice terminals...sure have gotten fancy over the years...lol
I looked up the 320-42...theres no AB or B to be found...may have to go up to a 48 because I do want the ability to dim it if needed...but the amperage is lower...the hunt starts again. :)
I was going to start with 3000K 2 foot strips...BXEB-L0560Z-30E2000-C-B3 @ $6.57ea...maybe add some far red and UVs later when I know more on what I need for that too.
I figure building a 16 strip light (2 8 strips lights connected in parallel) would work best with each being spaced 3" apart will give me a light thats 22" x 47". I like the idea of using the 4' strips, but I think for me the flexibility of using 2 footers works better...will draw up some plans for the 4' anyways tho I'm sure...lol
 
1

1212ham

Well-Known Member
Mak'er Grow said:
Ya, running cooler is in my best interest...limited space for height.
Those are some nice terminals...sure have gotten fancy over the years...lol
I looked up the 320-42...theres no AB or B to be found...may have to go up to a 48 because I do want the ability to dim it if needed...but the amperage is lower...the hunt starts again. :)
I was going to start with 3000K 2 foot strips...BXEB-L0560Z-30E2000-C-B3 @ $6.57ea...maybe add some far red and UVs later when I know more on what I need for that too.
I figure building a 16 strip light (2 8 strips lights connected in parallel) would work best with each being spaced 3" apart will give me a light thats 22" x 47". I like the idea of using the 4' strips, but I think for me the flexibility of using 2 footers works better...will draw up some plans for the 4' anyways tho I'm sure...lol
Click to expand...

Not sure about the AB, but there's plenty availability for the HLG-320H-42B.

HLG-320H-42B MEAN WELL USA Inc. | Power Supplies - External/Internal (Off-Board) | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. HLG-320H-42B – 7.65A 42V Constant Current, Voltage LED Driver AC DC Converter Topology 1 Output from MEAN WELL USA Inc.. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
www.digikey.ca www.digikey.ca

They also have plenty of the 2 foot gen 2 strips. 892 of the 3000k and 977 of the 3500k. FWIW, many suggest 3500k.

BXEB-L0560Z-35E2000-C-B3 Bridgelux | Optoelectronics | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. BXEB-L0560Z-35E2000-C-B3 – LED Lighting COBs Engines Modules LED Module series White, Warm Linear Light Strip from Bridgelux. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
www.digikey.ca www.digikey.ca
 
M

Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
1212ham said:
Not sure about the AB, but there's plenty availability for the HLG-320H-42B.

HLG-320H-42B MEAN WELL USA Inc. | Power Supplies - External/Internal (Off-Board) | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. HLG-320H-42B – 7.65A 42V Constant Current, Voltage LED Driver AC DC Converter Topology 1 Output from MEAN WELL USA Inc.. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
www.digikey.ca www.digikey.ca

They also have plenty of the 2 foot gen 2 strips. 892 of the 3000k and 977 of the 3500k. FWIW, many suggest 3500k.

BXEB-L0560Z-35E2000-C-B3 Bridgelux | Optoelectronics | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. BXEB-L0560Z-35E2000-C-B3 – LED Lighting COBs Engines Modules LED Module series White, Warm Linear Light Strip from Bridgelux. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
www.digikey.ca www.digikey.ca
Click to expand...
And now for some reason the site can't process credit cards right now....grrrrr
Tried to order them, but have to wait I guess...not sure how long tho...anyone else run into this with using DigiKey ?
 
M

Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul said:
Octopart is a great tool for sourcing components and drivers
Click to expand...
I was hoping to stay within Canada, but looks like I may have to go beyond...lol
Looks like a nice site even if its just to browse.
Well looks like my 'luck' has struck again...will shoot off an email in the morning to see whats up and hopefully get this stuff ordered. :)
Thanks for all the help fellow growers...will update this thread as I go.
 
M

Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
FINALLY !!!
After 5 or 6 more attempts today I finally got the order to go through.
Ordered 20x BXEB-L0560Z-35E2000-C-B3‎ and 1x HLG-320H-42B‎ . :)
Well now its wait until the parts come...time to look up some 'frame' pieces.
 
M

Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
3 days it took for shipping and I did have to pay some border fee of some sort...can't remember exactly what it was off hand...$231 total.
Well I went ahead and wired things up and used some smaller pieces for the backbone of the light(s), but I can always change that later...for now they work nicely...time to get them installed tomorrow and the clones should be ready any day now too...2 Blueberry clones.
I started 4 seeds...1 Pink Kush didn't open...2 Blueberry and 1 Pink Kush opened and were planted into small solo cups...well out of the 3 only 1 Blueberry was female and the rest were males...no worries because I'll be growing them out too so I can harvest some pollen...getting a good collection now...lol
Anyways thanks for the help folks and I'll let yous all know how well they work. :P

Edit:Will do some amp readings when I install it tomorrow to get a rough amperage/wattage...until the meter I ordered arrives...no more math...just look and press a button...lol
 

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M

Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
Wow are these things light...barely no weight to them...lol
Anyways I soldered the connectors on them today and hung them up to do some quick tests.
121.7 VAC @ 151 mA to 2845 mA which gives me 18.3 watts to 346.2 watts.
Now to build another for the other side of the grow box. :)
Almost forgot...barely any heat...they get slightly warm, but nothing that comes close to making you want to move our hand...still need to test them more, but very impressed with the temps they run at.
 
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