Looking for a guide to flood tables

Tim Fox

Tim Fox

Well-Known Member
drgreentm said:
It is chunky perlite, no rocks very light, cost effective and disposable which is why I love it.
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where can I get a hold of that chunky white perlite?,, got a link?

edit, never mind i found some,, thanks
 
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drgreentm

drgreentm

Well-Known Member
DirtyMcCurdy said:
I have been thinking about giving a 100% perlite medium a chance. I'm thinking about putting something similar together, pretty much like a dutch bucket system in a flood table. Something I can feed faster than coco. Nice looking setup you got there. How often do you run your pump?
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Thanks, I run my pumps 5x for 30 min in a 12 hour cycle and once in lights off for 30min. I used smart pots in flood trays with regular fine perlite for a while and it worked great too. Once you harvest toss it out and wash the pot then ready for another it's so easy.
 
Alaric

Alaric

Well-Known Member
drgreentm said:
1000w lights 16" doesn't seem high to me, in fact I would prefer if they where more like 24" away. Some of the tops got burned alread, you can see that in this pic (canoing/ light bleaching)
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Yes---a new 1K hps at 16" under an air cooled hood is right at 10,000 foot candles-----same intensity as full natural sunlight intensity. I believe the canoeing is caused by heat----not intensity. Bleaching is just that------resulting in a very pale color if exposed to more than 10K fc.

Here's the part I don't think most new growers understand:

If I take my light meter outside on a clear, sunny day and measure intensity on top of my roof I get 10K fc where as measured at ground level------the same 10K fc reading.

Now compare that to a 1K indoors------at 16" below the hood with glass 10K fc-----at 32" is only 2500 fc (no plants).

My conclusion is we have a very small useable envelope of light compared to sunlight.

A~~~
 
drgreentm

drgreentm

Well-Known Member
Alaric said:
Yes---a new 1K hps at 16" under an air cooled hood is right at 10,000 foot candles-----same intensity as full natural sunlight intensity. I believe the canoeing is caused by heat----not intensity. Bleaching is just that------resulting in a very pale color if exposed to more than 10K fc.

Here's the part I don't think most new growers understand:

If I take my light meter outside on a clear, sunny day and measure intensity on top of my roof I get 10K fc where as measured at ground level------the same 10K fc reading.

Now compare that to a 1K indoors------at 16" below the hood with glass 10K fc-----at 32" is only 2500 fc (no plants).

My conclusion is we have a very small useable envelope of light compared to sunlight.

A~~~
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I don't disagree with your meter but I can say from experience that over the years and the multitude of different air cooled reflectors I have owned, they all put out different foot prints of light and all have hot spots for sure. When I was running 8" magnum reflectors I was able to keep them quite close to the canopy with no ill effects but these melonheads have a much tighter light spread and obvious hot spots.

I have a mini split a/c in the room with a temp probe at each canopy and it stays 75f lights on and 69f lights off yet the top I posted a pic of is canoed, crispy and light in color where as another top not even 6" away from that top is nice and green looking fine and healthy so no way is ambient Temps causing a few canoed tops.

A safe bet for most all 1000w bulb, ballast and reflector combos is 18 to 24". Lollypoped plants with a 1000w bulb 24" away makes for a nice dense yield, my plants where vegged just a little to long or I would have had the lights further away new strain, lesson learned lol.
 

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Alaric

Alaric

Well-Known Member
drgreentm said:
I don't disagree with your meter but I can say from experience that over the years and the multitude of different air cooled reflectors I have owned, they all put out different foot prints of light and all have hot spots for sure. When I was running 8" magnum reflectors I was able to keep them quite close to the canopy with no ill effects but these melonheads have a much tighter light spread and obvious hot spots.

I have a mini split a/c in the room with a temp probe at each canopy and it stays 75f lights on and 69f lights off yet the top I posted a pic of is canoed, crispy and light in color where as another top not even 6" away from that top is nice and green looking fine and healthy so no way is ambient Temps causing a few canoed tops.

A safe bet for most all 1000w bulb, ballast and reflector combos is 18 to 24". Lollypoped plants with a 1000w bulb 24" away makes for a nice dense yield, my plants where vegged just a little to long or I would have had the lights further away new strain, lesson learned lol.
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Yes, I agree about foot prints and hot spots.

I run light movers to help prevent those hot spots. Have you ever tried them?

A~~~
 
drgreentm

drgreentm

Well-Known Member
Alaric said:
Yes, I agree about foot prints and hot spots.

I run light movers to help prevent those hot spots. Have you ever tried them?

A~~~
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Never tried them, but a couple people I know use them and swear by them. Ongoing projects, I would love to get some and implement co2 in the next few grows seeing how I have a mini split finally.
 
Alaric

Alaric

Well-Known Member
drgreentm said:
Never tried them, but a couple people I know use them and swear by them. Ongoing projects, I would love to get some and implement co2 in the next few grows seeing how I have a mini split finally.
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I too swear by movers for the reasons stated above.

BTW, I skimmed the threads in your sig-----very nice:clap:.

A~~~
 
drgreentm

drgreentm

Well-Known Member
Alaric said:
I too swear by movers for the reasons stated above.

BTW, I skimmed the threads in your sig-----very nice:clap:.

A~~~
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Thanks you, yours too subbing your journal, wish I had your space lol. I haven't posted in here for a while, last grow I posted was probably over 2 years ago. Will probably start a journal for the next run as I am scroging both beds so I will be able to do a start to finish journal.
 
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