Well thanks to you guys, everything is going good. My baby is about a month and a week old, about 10.5 inches tall and healthy as ever. She's now in a 5 gal bucket and appears to be very happy. Right now she is under a 100 watt fluorescent flood light I found from Home Depot. I have four more in cups that are about 4in tall working on their 5 blade leaf. They will get transplanted this weekend. I really see a difference in light quality so im sold on getting a better light source. I only have one problem. Ordering products is not one my fondest things. This light that I have is 6500K and just shy of 7000 lumens. Should I just use four of these lights for veggin(approx. 28,000 lumens). Also, what's the main condition that causes the buds to come out loose? Light intensity, color spectrum, or both?
Lighting Questions and Suggestions
- Thread starter rellu2
- Start date
bud bud ding ding
Active Member
i have seven plants under a 600w giving me 15000 lumens per plant you really need at least 3000 lumens per plant and you can achieve good results.happy growing
AllMeatNoPotato
Well-Known Member
not true rell, not true at all
noobiedoobie1974
Active Member
I also am using miracle gro soil for my newbie setup. The brown you're talking about, if it's the brown I also notice, is normal for that soil. There's actually not a whole lot of dirt in miracle gro soil. There's plant foodz and mulch and junk, that's what shows brown.
Chronic_Productionz
Well-Known Member
When I pot planet I use Mircle Grow. Right now because my main grow room is being remodeled I have to pot plant in the only other place to plant and its a SMALL area like 2 foot square except 3 foot wide and I'm using Mircle Grow
Main point is Mircle Grow works well if you watch the plants a few times a day. You can get very good results with it.
I have had that brown stuff happen too and I did think it was model at first too... but iuno the plant had come through fnie in the end
Main point is Mircle Grow works well if you watch the plants a few times a day. You can get very good results with it.
I have had that brown stuff happen too and I did think it was model at first too... but iuno the plant had come through fnie in the end
My babies are ready to go into the flowering stage but I have a question on cutting clones. When the plant first starts off there are branches (node?) for each fan leaf. As the plant matures, Every fan leaf branch (node?) has two braches (nodes?) that grow from the main stalk. Are these the branches (nodes?) you want to cut for clones? Also, I keep putting (node?) because I think this is what people are refering to when they say node. Hopefully I explained to point where someone understand my question.
mogie
Well-Known Member
Materials required:
- Fluorescent light
- plastic tub
- liquid rooting hormone
- sharp knife/scalpel
- superthrive
- ph tester and adjuster
Cloning...
Take cuttings from clean, disease-free stock. Cuttings taken from plants that have been deprived of nutrients, especially water, will respond poorly. Cuttings of equal length foliage and color should be selected and must not contain deformities in leaf growth pattern for optimum uniformity of the plants after rooting. Select cuttings from the most vigorously growing portion of the plant; this is where the highest concentration of auxins (growth hormones) are found. Cuttings selected should be green barked and should not contain any of the woodier type bark which indicates age. The finished cutting should be as short as possible 4-5 inches is preferred. Remember, auxins are more concentrated at the growing tip. Three of four small, well-formed leaves should be left intact. The propagation area and all containers should be carefully cleaned to reduce the danger of infection. Fill plastic tub or other suitable container with clean water. It should not contain fertilizer, but it is advisable to adjust the ph to 6.4 (6.2 to 6.6 is acceptable). Also, add superthrive at a ratio of 10 drops per U.S. gallon. Maintain the water at a temperature of 78 degrees (26C).
The cuttings taken should be at least 1 inch longer than you are going to use make the cut with a sharp knife and immediately place the entire cutting into the PH adjusted water. While the cutting is under water, cut it to the final length. Make the cut in a single, smooth motion at a 45-degree angle to the stem. If there is an internode at the cut point, make your cut directly below the node. With the cutting still submerged remove any excess leaves. If there are no internodes at the cut, make three or four shallow vertical slits (no deeper than the outer bark) upward from the cut along the stem about 1/2 inch. These cut must be made with the cutting submerged or air will be sucked into the stem causing what as know as an air embolism in which bubbles block the movement of water up the stem. An air embolism can cause death or slow the rooting process by weeks. This is known as the sip of life technique. By making all secondary cuts underwater, you eliminate air bubbles, reduce unnecessary strain on the clone and allow the cutting to stabilize in a fluid environment. After making your second cut and removing any excess leaves under water, remove the cutting and submerge the cut end in a liquid rooting hormone. Make sure at least 1 inch of the cutting is placed in the hormone.
Reduce cutting stress...
By controlling light levels, humidity and temperature, your job is to keep the cutting in a complete state of dormancy. Cuttings with out roots are very sensitive to stress. Every effort should be made to minimize evaporation from the cuttings and avoid extreme light and temperature levels. Keep humidity as close to 100 percent as possible and maintain water and substrate temperatures at between 70 and 84 degrees (21-29C). Cooler water will slow root formation; warmer water will encourage disease. The lower the humidity level, the more water the plant will transpire, causing the cutting to use up stored food for things other than root production. It is important to hold the leaves as dormant as possible and permit the cutting to use more of it's energy on root development.
- Fluorescent light
- plastic tub
- liquid rooting hormone
- sharp knife/scalpel
- superthrive
- ph tester and adjuster
Cloning...
Take cuttings from clean, disease-free stock. Cuttings taken from plants that have been deprived of nutrients, especially water, will respond poorly. Cuttings of equal length foliage and color should be selected and must not contain deformities in leaf growth pattern for optimum uniformity of the plants after rooting. Select cuttings from the most vigorously growing portion of the plant; this is where the highest concentration of auxins (growth hormones) are found. Cuttings selected should be green barked and should not contain any of the woodier type bark which indicates age. The finished cutting should be as short as possible 4-5 inches is preferred. Remember, auxins are more concentrated at the growing tip. Three of four small, well-formed leaves should be left intact. The propagation area and all containers should be carefully cleaned to reduce the danger of infection. Fill plastic tub or other suitable container with clean water. It should not contain fertilizer, but it is advisable to adjust the ph to 6.4 (6.2 to 6.6 is acceptable). Also, add superthrive at a ratio of 10 drops per U.S. gallon. Maintain the water at a temperature of 78 degrees (26C).
The cuttings taken should be at least 1 inch longer than you are going to use make the cut with a sharp knife and immediately place the entire cutting into the PH adjusted water. While the cutting is under water, cut it to the final length. Make the cut in a single, smooth motion at a 45-degree angle to the stem. If there is an internode at the cut point, make your cut directly below the node. With the cutting still submerged remove any excess leaves. If there are no internodes at the cut, make three or four shallow vertical slits (no deeper than the outer bark) upward from the cut along the stem about 1/2 inch. These cut must be made with the cutting submerged or air will be sucked into the stem causing what as know as an air embolism in which bubbles block the movement of water up the stem. An air embolism can cause death or slow the rooting process by weeks. This is known as the sip of life technique. By making all secondary cuts underwater, you eliminate air bubbles, reduce unnecessary strain on the clone and allow the cutting to stabilize in a fluid environment. After making your second cut and removing any excess leaves under water, remove the cutting and submerge the cut end in a liquid rooting hormone. Make sure at least 1 inch of the cutting is placed in the hormone.
Reduce cutting stress...
By controlling light levels, humidity and temperature, your job is to keep the cutting in a complete state of dormancy. Cuttings with out roots are very sensitive to stress. Every effort should be made to minimize evaporation from the cuttings and avoid extreme light and temperature levels. Keep humidity as close to 100 percent as possible and maintain water and substrate temperatures at between 70 and 84 degrees (21-29C). Cooler water will slow root formation; warmer water will encourage disease. The lower the humidity level, the more water the plant will transpire, causing the cutting to use up stored food for things other than root production. It is important to hold the leaves as dormant as possible and permit the cutting to use more of it's energy on root development.
Well R.I.U One of my plants are showing female traits for sure, but also showing male. Happy but sad. Here's the problem. I also have four other plants growing but don't know the sex yet. They have been flowering for 3 days now. Keepin in mind this is my first attempt, I don't want to hack it off and end up with all males. At the same time I don't pollen floating around for future grow. So the best thing I could think of is ask R.I.U for any tips.
chancelee8338
Member
dude. different color spectrums are different light wavelengths.... not just visibly different colored by the naked eye?
Read up on some science man.
Read up on some science man.