Light set up dilemma, help.

Hi all,
Just in my 6th week from seed, 17 days flowering, auto strain blue himalaya supposed to finish in week 8-10.
Just wanted your advice on which set up is best...as I want it to make quick progress with flowering because got other plans by the time she reaches week 10.

1. Two 9w 2700K lights, One 45w 2700K and One 45w 6400k.


2. Two 9w 2700K lights, and only just the 45w 2700k light .


this is how her top bud looks now.


And I was using option 2 from the time she started flowering till now.
and on a 20/4 light cycle.

So which is the best option for good results in short time, I know patience is the key but give me your suggestions guys.

thanks for all the help !!.
my first grow too.

I'd go with the first but put the lights closer. Have them almost parallel to the plant on both sides. That should give them the best room. Also for flowering you might want to drop it to 18/6 to give it a little more time to recover and let the buds grow, that's how I finish off mine.

stick autos on option 2 and 24/7 imo pal..no need apologise pal..always here to help mate

id use all of them. no reason to leave the 45 watt 6500k bulb unless heat is an issue.

autos dont need time to recover the more light the better they grow imo

big thanks pals!! will do as said, bud looks healthy right ?!

*id go with more red spectrum just to beef up your floral size .looks healthy.

---since your using CFLs for your auto.. try 24/0 ...cheers

looking good. i agree with the rest of them. rule of thumb: the more light the better. good job so far

cannawizard said:

*id go with more red spectrum just to beef up your floral size .looks healthy.

---since your using CFLs for your auto.. try 24/0 ...cheers

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canna mate, i already using 20/4 for like 2 weeks, wont it be a problem changing the cycle ?? What u think?? just gimme ure opinion...

nah id change it back to 24/0 n leave it there. shouldnt stress em out too bad as autos dont really care bout light changes like regs do

yeah id put it back on 24 brahh

In all the auto's I've done, the best yield has come from 20/4 and with some high spectrum light. The ruderalis plant is indiginous to an area that receives more direct sunlight. 24/0 they seem to over work themselves, 20/4 they will come out the first few hours and burst grow. Up until recently I've done the last 4 grows on CFL autos in different types and the best was 20/4 with dual lighting. A pure rudder might be ok with 24/0 but a lot of the better strains still seem to flower better with a small window that they can re-coup and it tends to put them in a lower stress situation.

What brand is the strain btw, certain ones are better suited for 24/0 than others. I know Flash, Nirvana, short stuff and Barney's autos like the 4 off, I think because they are backcrossed. G13 and lowryder are all happy in 24/0.

cranker said:

What brand is the strain btw, certain ones are better suited for 24/0 than others. I know Flash, Nirvana, short stuff and Barney's autos like the 4 off, I think because they are backcrossed. G13 and lowryder are all happy in 24/0.

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this is blue himalaya from Short stuff seeds...
heard of it mate??

Yeah, light cycle is really up to you, personally I like the rest portion, but I do believe that it stresses the plant a little. They'll keep growing in the dark, they just won't be producing chloro which won't matter with 20 hours of light they'll have enough. You have plenty of lighting for that to work. I use mixed spectrums for flowering with cfl's. The photos I've got now I have an 85W 5500k in the center and the buds near it are finishing faster than the ones on the outside where I have 42W 2700k's. Biggest thing you're gonna wanna do and watch is your P levels. With autos there really isn't a great nute for them which is why I used MG Tomato, you have to keep a steady stream of N and P coming in because they really don't have 2 stages like normal. They look plenty healthy, just watch for P deficiency, it's really easy to get with autos for some reason.

wont be producing chlorophyl? lol you mean won't be producing sugars using their chlorophyl. They can assemble new tissues in the dark, just can photosynthesize

Myles117 said:

wont be producing chlorophyl? lol you mean won't be producing sugars using their chlorophyl. They can assemble new tissues in the dark, just can photosynthesize

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The ones I've done 24/0, the quality has been less than the one's I've done 20/4. Now, if you had a week long digital I'd suggest 28/4. I know that chickens are bred now to work on 28 hour days, it ups their growth rate. they use an 18/10 cycle. And you can always toss in some molasses to make up for that. I've been pushing for an auto thread and have some support for it, I'm hoping it gets implemented, because there is so much wrong info out there. One of the reasons Nirvana's first few phenos of autos failed is because people were growing them 24/0 and not 18/6. You gotta remember they are not full ruderalis, they are hybrids. Give them another few years and 24/0 will be the prefered method.

cranker said:

The ones I've done 24/0, the quality has been less than the one's I've done 20/4. Now, if you had a week long digital I'd suggest 28/4. I know that chickens are bred now to work on 28 hour days, it ups their growth rate. they use an 18/10 cycle. And you can always toss in some molasses to make up for that. I've been pushing for an auto thread and have some support for it, I'm hoping it gets implemented, because there is so much wrong info out there. One of the reasons Nirvana's first few phenos of autos failed is because people were growing them 24/0 and not 18/6. You gotta remember they are not full ruderalis, they are hybrids. Give them another few years and 24/0 will be the prefered method.

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Great post, my support too for auto thread...
oh and yes cannabis are also known as C3 plants or something like that, plants where darkness is not mandatory...

definate need a good auto thread making...

kevin murphy said:

autos dont need time to recover the more light the better they grow imo

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I respectfully disagree.

A short dark period is greatly beneficial to all types of marijuana while flowering. The autoflowering characteristic of this Blue Himalaya, like others, is nothing more than a genetic timer inherited from its ruderalis lineage. Once that timer goes off, and the plant flowers, it's just like any other budding plant in that it needs SOME time in the dark to grow and produce the best bud possible.