Light burn, wind burn or Deficiency

WingAK

WingAK

Well-Known Member
486FD742-1579-44F9-884E-7F05C3A9F3CE.jpeg 3BC96D8D-F4AC-4A2E-9F68-F7B5EC439DAA.jpeg F1973833-B6EF-47C9-A197-1EC563458523.jpeg 58E52C88-C15C-4882-98CD-3FEC4D4B799F.jpeg I have some gsc that the leaves are cupping and looks like bleaching.

I have them under a 1000w de Nanolux MaxPar mh it’s at 27 inches above the plants the room is steady at 80 degrees humidity is 30% I have them in aurora phlora living soil it’s a super soil made here where I live has always worked well for me.

I also have a norther lights in the same condition and it’s flourishing.

Thank you!
 
xtsho

xtsho

Well-Known Member
Bigger pots and less nutes.

Oh, super soil. Never mind the nutes reference.

Still looks like it could use a bigger pot.

Different strains grow differently. I'd transplant it to a bigger pot and let it go a week or so before doing anything drastic.
 
WingAK

WingAK

Well-Known Member
xtsho said:
Bigger pots and less nutes.

Oh, super soil. Never mind the nutes reference.

Still looks like it could use a bigger pot.

Different strains grow differently. I'd transplant it to a bigger pot and let it go a week or so before doing anything drastic.
Click to expand...
Thank you I was wondering the same thing
 
baaael

baaael

Active Member
WingAK said:
View attachment 4242460 View attachment 4242461 View attachment 4242462 View attachment 4242459 I have some gsc that the leaves are cupping and looks like bleaching.

I have them under a 1000w de Nanolux MaxPar mh it’s at 27 inches above the plants the room is steady at 80 degrees humidity is 30% I have them in aurora phlora living soil it’s a super soil made here where I live has always worked well for me.

I also have a norther lights in the same condition and it’s flourishing.

Thank you!
Click to expand...
hi man
i think 30% humidity is very low for veg,50/60% is what i think is best for veg but i may be wrong on that,
They could be suffering from heat stress and with not much moisture in the air id say up the hum and see if that helps then move on from there,
your other strain is thriving u say but different strains will handle room temps etc while others wont.
good luck!
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
baaael said:
hi man
i think 30% humidity is very low for veg,50/60% is what i think is best for veg but i may be wrong on that,
They could be suffering from heat stress and with not much moisture in the air id say up the hum and see if that helps then move on from there,
your other strain is thriving u say but different strains will handle room temps etc while others wont.
good luck!
Click to expand...
30% humidity would suggest the meters are under the light :-)
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
That was Mg def starting... had used up the available Mg down to the point of a def.

Even as you up pot that plant. I would be watching for this problem. The plant tells me the strain is a bigger Mg user.....You may need to supplement that.

I might consider adding a bit of Dolomite Lime to the soil next time before use. Dolo lime has a hefty amount of Available Mg in it. It would bolster your long term available Mg up to where Mg hungry strains are good to go.

Say maybe another half cup per cft of soil or a bit more.....
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
WingAK said:
No I have a few scattered around my grow room and I take an average
Click to expand...
Ya the best and only way (coincidentally its how met services read air temps) is to place the meters away from and shaded from indirect and direct light.

If you read radiation on top of air temps and humidity it will give false readings.

There is only one way to do this accurately and the rest is pure myth/broscience/wrong.

It negates that leaves are highly efficient at cooling light radiation so it is further a null point.

Thats why you struggle to achieve the right readings and get low humidity probably higher temp readings.

Some times you need to 'Science the shit' out of these things.

Good luck :-)
 
WingAK

WingAK

Well-Known Member
Kingrow1 said:
Ya the best and only way (coincidentally its how met services read air temps) is to place the meters away from and shaded from indirect and direct light.

If you read radiation on top of air temps and humidity it will give false readings.

There is only one way to do this accurately and the rest is pure myth/broscience/wrong.

It negates that leaves are highly efficient at cooling light radiation so it is further a null point.

Thats why you struggle to achieve the right readings and get low humidity probably higher temp readings.

Some times you need to 'Science the shit' out of these things.

Good luck :-)
Click to expand...
I have some decent monitoring equipment and I’ve got it up to 41% and after transplanting they are looking better already. Thanks for all the help!
B9890483-7306-423E-9721-5D6AF6729DB1.jpeg B20FD41D-D653-44E0-9429-ED57E4E10B15.jpeg 8EAD258F-9F46-4A98-982A-E5574B8E59E2.jpeg
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
WingAK said:
I have some decent monitoring equipment and I’ve got it up to 41% and after transplanting they are looking better already. Thanks for all the help!
View attachment 4242858 View attachment 4242859 View attachment 4242860
Click to expand...
Cool just make sure you are using the science of taking accurate air temps and humidity meter readings. Radiant light is not what you want to read and not what any other discipline that needs accurate air temps reads.

A work in progress but armed with this ACCURATE information you can then set you extraction lights and such to optimun :-)
 
Dynamo626

Dynamo626

Well-Known Member
I was going to say mag but the dr already did. I will add that the deficiency is probably caused by being root bound. I would add mag pro, or transplant. Do not do both. Also if you transplant the same problem will probably happen as they get bound on the new pot so even after transplant you will eventually need to feed them, super soil or not.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top