dabbindylan
Well-Known Member
Theres t12 n shit too stick too t5...t5 coral lights are awsome supplement with led
Let's Talk About Flowering With Tubes
- Thread starter SwankyDank
- Start date
Hey guys I got 11 plants In veg I have them in a 4x4x6 tent using t5s I got a 2ft 2 bulb and 2ft 4 bulb they are htg tek 2 & 4 anyways I also got a hydrofarm t5 4ft 6 bulb that I'm flowering 4 plants with do u think I would get more light to the 11 plants with the 6 bulb in the 4x4 tent and use other t5 for the 4 flowering thanks for any info
Attachments
yesum
Well-Known Member
^^ I just ordered the tek 4 lamp light with biax tubes, used to call them 55 watt pll. Got the Agromax 'finisher' type at 10,000 Kelvin. I am growing sativa and want an intense white light like at the equator where these strains originate.
Is there really a need to change the ballast after a grow or a few? I never heard of that till this thread. I would have to scrap the whole light as it is built in.
To RM whatever, the leprechaun looking guy, what do you think of using the high Kelvin tubes like I am doing? I am doing it for trippy effects not so much for potency. You have use LED and find the tubes give better smoke? I think you implied that? I have good LED too but want to use a very high Kelvin light for these special sativas.
I have used these 55 watt biax or pll tubes before and kept them 2 inches away from the plants in flower. No issues. I think they only kick out good flowering light for something like 12 inches from the tube. I want all the light getting into the canopy. Lots of training or bending with sativas to keep the a foot tall or 18 inches max.
Is there really a need to change the ballast after a grow or a few? I never heard of that till this thread. I would have to scrap the whole light as it is built in.
To RM whatever, the leprechaun looking guy, what do you think of using the high Kelvin tubes like I am doing? I am doing it for trippy effects not so much for potency. You have use LED and find the tubes give better smoke? I think you implied that? I have good LED too but want to use a very high Kelvin light for these special sativas.
I have used these 55 watt biax or pll tubes before and kept them 2 inches away from the plants in flower. No issues. I think they only kick out good flowering light for something like 12 inches from the tube. I want all the light getting into the canopy. Lots of training or bending with sativas to keep the a foot tall or 18 inches max.
RM3
Well-Known Member
Been doin it for years
yesum
Well-Known Member
RM3
Well-Known Member
No idea, don't have LED's ?
for trippy change your light timing
and while "you" think I could go closer, you would be wrong. Getting the light as close as you can is one of those forum rhetoric bro science misnomers, tis way better to learn how to adjust the other elements
yesum
Well-Known Member
I have the lights on 10 1/2 hours for flower if that is what you mean. Are you saying that I should not have my lights 2 inches off my plants or just that you do yours different because that works for you?
I will have a 4 light lamp with 55 watt pll. I have been using single 55 watt pll and only noticed overheating at 1 inch away. The light intensity falls off real fast and that is inverse law, no idea what the bros think of it.
I have a uvb cfl too and think I will hang it in there in the final week or 2. I measured it's output with a uvb meter and it has a 12 inch range much like the 55 watt pll.
I will have a 4 light lamp with 55 watt pll. I have been using single 55 watt pll and only noticed overheating at 1 inch away. The light intensity falls off real fast and that is inverse law, no idea what the bros think of it.
I have a uvb cfl too and think I will hang it in there in the final week or 2. I measured it's output with a uvb meter and it has a 12 inch range much like the 55 watt pll.
No idea, don't have LED's ?
for trippy change your light timing
and while "you" think I could go closer, you would be wrong. Getting the light as close as you can is one of those forum rhetoric bro science misnomers, tis way better to learn how to adjust the other elements
Hi RM3 - I've been micro-growing with (for flower) two 55 watt dulux-l, the osram version of the pll (one 2700K and the other 6500K driven on osram quicktronic ballasts) for a little while and would like to pick your brains.
Many years ago, when I first started messing around, I was fascinated by the various combinations of spectrum achievable with fluoros and remember using coral lights, actinics and a couple of others but gave them up for the HID route after a little while for one resason and another. Now I see the spectrum discussion, and all its ramifications, coming up again with LED cob users. I've enjoyed several moments of self-satisfaction as a result, having argued the merits of broad spectrum lighting over narrow wavelengths with a few would be LEDers in the past. And I've found the old curiosity about improving, primarily potency but also yield, through the intorduction of a broader spectrum, especially at the far ends of the visible.
What, in your experience, is the optimum combination? Whilst I'm already pretty pleased with potency outcomes, what do you think would be the best way to supplement my light so as to maximise it? Similarly, though yield to me is less important than quality, I've rarely mananged more than .5g per flowering watt. What is your average return and how could I improve mine?
You mention also, that closer is not necessarily better. What's your rationale for this? If you've posted this info anywhere else would you mind directing me to it, please?
Thanks in advance!
RM3
Well-Known Member
I'm still workin on findin the best bulbs and mix, just started playin with the Pure UV bulb and it is a seriously dangerous toy. I've already gotten burned by it
As for return, I measure my yields via beans, I breed so never care about yield
as for readin my opinion on light, I've posted bout it for years, it is my pet peeve LOL
here is a good start
https://www.rollitup.org/t/light.853779/