LED Panel 1/2 the lights OUT

grasscropper · Oct 25, 2014

Al Yamoni said:
They replied, and of course said that they don't care about my problems, and as it falls, apparently they care not for the customer either.

$135 +shipping for a new 500w board and they claim that it will solve my issues (I told them that I swapped the cords around and the same lights are out.)

You say that it will be a PITA, being that I am fairly competent (maybe not as much as I think.) do you think that it could be worth it to try to get this thing going again on my own? Rather than paying the $150 or whatever dollar amount they come up with.

I did the same with my LED's. And the same 'string' of lights is still out. Must be the diodes. Or the little cord/plug that it goes into. They do look fairly simple. There seem to be wire and plugs not plugged into anything as well. No hot glue everywhere tho. Mine does look neat and tidy. Here are some pics of when I pulled it apart. I think we have the same issue here. So what buy 33 diodes and change them out which involves soldering etc. being female, while I am handy, maybe not that handy.

Al Yamoni · Oct 26, 2014

Most likely if it's a diode, I'm told that it can make the whole string go out. I've read that you can remove/replace or solder around that particular led to power the string back up.

Someone else with credibility on the subject might need to correct me..

FranJan · Oct 26, 2014

Al Yamoni said:
They replied, and of course said that they don't care about my problems, and as it falls, apparently they care not for the customer either.

$135 +shipping for a new 500w board and they claim that it will solve my issues (I told them that I swapped the cords around and the same lights are out.)

You say that it will be a PITA, being that I am fairly competent (maybe not as much as I think.) do you think that it could be worth it to try to get this thing going again on my own? Rather than paying the $150 or whatever dollar amount they come up with.

Well I've had 3 G1 BS240s and everyone of them died, or more correctly had the diodes crap out shortly after my warranty was expired. $135 for a new board is a good idea since once 1 diode blows, the writing is on the wall and the rest are sure to follow but for $135.00 you could build a COB based light or turn it into an Illumitex based panel like I did my old Blackstars.

Having said that it is possible to remove all the screws, find the blown diode, replace it or jump it with a wire, (careful with that solder cause you don't have a lot of room here and it's easy to short it to the heatsink), re-apply thermal paste to every diode, (G1 Blackstars don't use thermal pads but one could use a thermal sheet to avoid this tedious step), then ever so carefully screw all those effing screws back in with out shorting it to the heatsink. Then wait x weeks for another LED to die and repeat the previous steps

. For the most part G1 Blackstars don't last too long unless they're used in a perfect environment. Even then they will lose quite a bit of output over time since the LEDs are driven pretty hard, are not high quality and cooling is really an afterthought on them.

grasscropper said:
I did the same with my LED's. And the same 'string' of lights is still out. Must be the diodes. Or the little cord/plug that it goes into. They do look fairly simple. There seem to be wire and plugs not plugged into anything as well. No hot glue everywhere tho. Mine does look neat and tidy. Here are some pics of when I pulled it apart. I think we have the same issue here. So what buy 33 diodes and change them out which involves soldering etc. being female, while I am handy, maybe not that handy.

From the pictures your repair job might be a bit easier but I can't be 100% sure because I need some better pix of the diodes and heatsink. Get a multimeter. Set it to read DC and start probing. Find the bad diodes(s) and either replace, jump it with a wire or perhaps add a Zener. Or like mentioned before by P build a COB based light with what you have, though again I need to see better pictures to see what you have to work with.

grasscropper · Oct 26, 2014

FranJan said:
Well I've had 3 G1 BS240s and everyone of them died, or more correctly had the diodes crap out shortly after my warranty was expired. $135 for a new board is a good idea since once 1 diode blows, the writing is on the wall and the rest are sure to follow but for $135.00 you could build a COB based light or turn it into an Illumitex based panel like I did my old Blackstars.

Having said that it is possible to remove all the screws, find the blown diode, replace it or jump it with a wire, (careful with that solder cause you don't have a lot of room here and it's easy to short it to the heatsink), re-apply thermal paste to every diode, (G1 Blackstars don't use thermal pads but one could use a thermal sheet to avoid this tedious step), then ever so carefully screw all those effing screws back in with out shorting it to the heatsink. Then wait x weeks for another LED to die and repeat the previous steps . For the most part G1 Blackstars don't last too long unless they're used in a perfect environment. Even then they will lose quite a bit of output over time since the LEDs are driven pretty hard, are not high quality and cooling is really an afterthought on them.

From the pictures your repair job might be a bit easier but I can't be 100% sure because I need some better pix of the diodes and heatsink. Get a multimeter. Set it to read DC and start probing. Find the bad diodes(s) and either replace, jump it with a wire or perhaps add a Zener. Or like mentioned before by P build a COB based light with what you have, though again I need to see better pictures to see what you have to work with.

For me I think replacement is a better option. I get a lot of what you are saying. Have NO idea what a heatsink is but will Google it. I like the building of a COB based light but have no idea what I would be doing. However I am willing to read and learn which is what I have done to this point to get to where I am in this hobby. Not to mention I fix most of my own issues around my house.

Mechmike · Oct 26, 2014

I would bet that there's only one diode out. Replacing it is fairly easy once you determine which one it is. You could probably get away with soldering in a jumper wire around the dead one but you will lose the light that one would produce. I wouldn't suggest wiring around more than one because the driver is matched to the voltage required by the string. Those Chinese 3 watt diodes are cheap so it shouldn't cost more than a few bucks to fix.

grasscropper · Oct 26, 2014

Mechmike said:
I would bet that there's only one diode out. Replacing it is fairly easy once you determine which one it is. You could probably get away with soldering in a jumper wire around the dead one but you will lose the light that one would produce. I wouldn't suggest wiring around more than one because the driver is matched to the voltage required by the string. Those Chinese 3 watt diodes are cheap so it shouldn't cost more than a few bucks to fix.

Yes, I have seen those on e-bay. Maybe I will try that and have my brother fix it for me. A project for him. These are kind of like the xmas tree lights... one goes out and you have to find that light and replace it. Only these are soldered to the board, not pull out.

Mechmike · Oct 26, 2014

grasscropper said:
Yes, I have seen those on e-bay. Maybe I will try that and have my brother fix it for me. A project for him. These are kind of like the xmas tree lights... one goes out and you have to find that light and replace it. Only these are soldered to the board, not pull out.

At least you can determine which one it is. Just cut a 1-2" length of insulated wire and strip the insulation from the ends back about 1/4" and bend it into a U shape. Then power the board and check each diode by touching your jumper wire to connect the + side to the - side on each led. When you see the string light up, the one you jumpered is the bad diode. de-soldering and soldering those is easy if you can get your hands on a soldering iron and some rosin core solder.

grasscropper · Oct 26, 2014

Mechmike said:
At least you can determine which one it is. Just cut a 1-2" length of insulated wire and strip the insulation from the ends back about 1/4" and bend it into a U shape. Then power the board and check each diode by touching your jumper wire to connect the + side to the - side on each led. When you see the string light up, the one you jumpered is the bad diode. de-soldering and soldering those is easy if you can get your hands on a soldering iron and some rosin core solder.

I do have a soldering gun. And the flux or whatever you call it. Any any peice of wire? Take off the plastic or insulation, bend to a U and touch each end of that to the pos/neg on each diode. The one you hit with the wire if the board lights up is bad. Take new diode and replace by soldering. Hmmm sounds simple. And the heat sink I take it is the aluminum back that all the diodes are on. It absorbs the heat from the lights. Right?

grasscropper · Oct 26, 2014

I have all my dads tools. He passed and mom did as well. I bought their house and kept his tools. Hence the soldering iron or gun. Some would through it out but I figure even if I didn't really know what to use it for or how there would be a day. And here I am.

Mechmike · Oct 26, 2014

grasscropper said:
I do have a soldering gun. And the flux or whatever you call it. Any any peice of wire? Take off the plastic or insulation, bend to a U and touch each end of that to the pos/neg on each diode. The one you hit with the wire if the board lights up is bad. Take new diode and replace by soldering. Hmmm sounds simple. And the heat sink I take it is the aluminum back that all the diodes are on. It absorbs the heat from the lights. Right?

Yes, that's right. To be clear, the only part of the jumper wire you want to strip the insulation from is the last 1/4". That way you won't get shocked because the board will be powered up for the test. Any type of small gauge insulated wire is fine. A small piece of speaker wire or lamp wire will do. The aluminum board is screwed to an aluminum plate which is they're version of a heat sink. I don't think you'll need to separate them. Under the diode there should some heat sink paste unless the diode is reflowed (soldered) onto the board. I don't know which it is but it has likely just got a small dab of paste between the diode back and the board. You will need to apply a small amount of paste on the new diode.
Also, resin flux core solder is solder made for electronics. It has resin in the core of the solder which acts as a flux. Make sure you don't use acid core flux solder. That type is not for electronics.

Mechmike · Oct 26, 2014

grasscropper said:
I have all my dads tools. He passed and mom did as well. I bought their house and kept his tools. Hence the soldering iron or gun. Some would through it out but I figure even if I didn't really know what to use it for or how there would be a day. And here I am.

Your iron should be no more than 40w. With higher wattage it's too easy to cook small things. If it looks like a pencil it's probably ok. If it has a pistol grip, it's to hot.

grasscropper · Oct 26, 2014

Mine is like a gun... and yes I know what you are talking out for the pencil type. I may be able to find one somewhere. Dad made amplifiers many many years ago with tubes etc.

tokingtiger · Oct 26, 2014

grasscropper said:
I have a 300 watt LED panel and one side isn't working. I'd like to take it apart and see what is going on in there. I got it off e-bay and there's a 3 year warranty, but I don't think it is worth my time sending it back etc. Can anyone give me advise to determine what could be wrong and if I can get proper parts to repair on my own. I am female and while I am quite handy I am not adept at the science of how these lights work...I don't want to sound stupid.. so please go easy on me..

I have 6 of them, got them from HTG supply and then their Chinese Producer. The drama and cost of repacking and shipping was more than I wanted to deal with, I found a new supplier and use my 1/2 lit lights for side lighting.

Mechmike · Oct 26, 2014

grasscropper said:
Mine is like a gun... and yes I know what you are talking out for the pencil type. I may be able to find one somewhere. Dad made amplifiers many many years ago with tubes etc.

The pencil type are usually pretty reasonable. I think I paid less than $20 for the one I have.

grasscropper · Oct 26, 2014

I understand MechMike all what your are speaking of... there is an aluminum board screwed to the led board. Keeping some of the insulation on the wire grounds me! Right? Does the colour matter.. like copper vs silver... or the colour of the insulation. I can do all this I am pretty sure. Just need the soldering iron/pencil.. not gun. I will pull that out and take a look at it. It's pretty big tho. Will look for the paste as well. Didn't seem to be any I could see from top. DOes it stay pasty or doees it dry?

grasscropper · Oct 26, 2014

Mechmike said:
The pencil type are usually pretty reasonable. I think I paid less than $20 for the one I have.

That's no big deal cost wise. I have some photos of the diodes... from ebay as well. Now if the entire string is fried... it must be something else. If I go through with the wire and test all diodoes and the string never liights, then I take it they are all fried or it the connector to the diodies. But I did switch the connections around and the centre string never responded. The other two did even from the power source that the centre one connects to.

grasscropper · Oct 26, 2014

Can you replace those diodes with 3w COB? If his doesn't work or regardless I may attempt a small project once I research some DIY on these lights.

Mechmike · Oct 26, 2014

grasscropper said:
I understand MechMike all what your are speaking of... there is an aluminum board screwed to the led board. Keeping some of the insulation on the wire grounds me! Right? Does the colour matter.. like copper vs silver... or the colour of the insulation. I can do all this I am pretty sure. Just need the soldering iron/pencil.. not gun. I will pull that out and take a look at it. It's pretty big tho. Will look for the paste as well. Didn't seem to be any I could see from top. DOes it stay pasty or doees it dry?

Actually you don't want to be the ground wire. That's why we need insulation here. The type of conductor doesn't matter. Copper or silver, stranded or solid are fine. The color of the insulation only makes it easier to identify circuits so it's irrelevant here. If there is heat sink paste you will probably not see it from the top unless the manufacturer was really messy and it does dry out so you'll need a very small amount for that one diode. RadioShack should have an appropriate iron and you can get some paste there as well.

Mechmike · Oct 26, 2014

grasscropper said:
That's no big deal cost wise. I have some photos of the diodes... from ebay as well. Now if the entire string is fried... it must be something else. If I go through with the wire and test all diodoes and the string never liights, then I take it they are all fried or it the connector to the diodies. But I did switch the connections around and the centre string never responded. The other two did even from the power source that the centre one connects to.

You really have narrowed it down by switching the drivers. That method is what I use and it has not failed me. You now know that you have all good drivers and one dead string. My bet is that one open diode is responsible for the dead string.

Mechmike · Oct 26, 2014

grasscropper said:
Can you replace those diodes with 3w COB? If his doesn't work or regardless I may attempt a small project once I research some DIY on these lights.

No, not a direct replacement. It's possible but only with some major modifications.
When you repair this light you will be building on the skills you'll need to sink your teeth into a diy project!

LED Panel 1/2 the lights OUT

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